Joys & Pitfalls

No matter where you start scuba diving you will have been given the chance to just wade in “somewhere” and dive……..whether that is a quarry in the Midlands, or a South Coast beach, or even a Red Sea resort, shore diving is where all of this began. I am convinced the first Ama breath holding pearl divers, in Japan & Korea, the Greek and Roman Sponge divers, the Coromandel pearl divers observed by Marco polo, and even the Assyrians, using animal skins to breathe from, didn’t begin diving from boats, it makes far more sense that they began from the shore and that boats came later…..

From my own very first dive in “open water” from the slip at Fort Bovisands, to my last shore dive (so far) off the rocks at Cape Pembroke in the Falkland Islands, I have both enjoyed and cursed shore dives in equal measure as, with every dive, there is dark and light or “Yin & Yang”, as the Chinese observed millennia before the West dragged itself into civilization from primitive barbarianism

I have been privilidged to dive far and wide across this world, and I am still trying to reach wider, despite the nagging onset of physical limitations, as I head for the wrong side of 60……… I have no complaints and have done some wonderful shore dives, despite my first very nearly becoming my last, (you can read about that elsewhere in this blog but it was a very close run thing, I promise you!) luckily I persevered, as did my poor dive leader, and the rest of my life has owed him a considerable debt of gratitude I simply cannot ever repay!

“21/08/90 SHORE DIVE – BOVISANDS HARBOUR – – Viz 3-4m BASIC DIVE – Scenic – Rock Sand & Kelp Inst Paul. L – Buddy Andy H ”

 I have taken a fair few shore dives at Fort Bovisands not only at that time but over several of the following years too, both for pleasure and for training purposes too, so shore diving is inseparable from my love of diving as a whole, and I have enjoyed several very memorable shore dives indeed, here are a few of the more notable ones through the years………..

“15/12/91 SHORE DIVE – Horsea Lakes Portsmouth Viz – 12m – Cold Dive 4’ Temp, (water) – Work task hacksawing & bolting up metal spars – great fun – Damn cold! Buddy Barnie – Air In 210 Out 145” 

This is a brutally short description of an excellent dive, in what was then a closed dive site to all but military personnel, and we had worked hard to get access for our joint military & civilian dive club, Tidworth Sub Aqua Club, or TIDSAC for short. Norman Morley, our diving officer (a civilian) and his wife Joy (an ex-military nurse) had been trying to get us back in to Horsea following a change of Officer Commanding (OC) at the site, several years before, who closed it down to Navy/Army trainees alone

Luckily, I eventually managed to get us through the gates via an official request through my own unit, we were granted very rare privilidge, and dived several times with an entirely empty lake to ourselves. The dive described so curtly was to get a “working dive” towards my sport diver qualification, if you imagine Carl Brashear in “Men of Honour” where Robert De Niro has Brashear’s tool-bag cut open and his tools strew all over the sea-bed making his tasking almost impossible….but he manages, through sheer stubborn determination, to complete the task, after hours of trying and surfaces, almost hypo-thermic, but triumphant……..my dive was nothing like that………It was a beautiful, sunny, but bitterly cold day, with gin clear freezing cold sea water, filled with hundreds of tiny jelly-fish, and Barnie and I worked to saw and bolt together a simple framework of metal bars, whilst freezing in semi-dry-suits, with barely working fingers in thick rubber dive gloves, and we eventually triumphed around 20 minutes later, and had a great time doing so too! One of several dives I would enjoy at Horsea Lakes over several years with TIDSAC

“02/02/’92 SHORE DIVE – Chesil Beach – Portland Viz 2-3m Cold Dive 6’ W.Temp Basic Ferret about, loads of Atlantic Prawns, Some wreckage, the odd crab, Buddy Gary, Air In 190 Out 110”

I have dived Chesil beach a fair few times in the early years of diving, it was a favourite of Toots (Denise Tuttle) and I when we couldn’t afford to dive with Budgie (Eric “Budgie” Burgess, Portland and Tulum Diving Legend & a great personal friend ), although Budgie was kind to us, and always discounted our diving as we were serving military, even he had to make a living, and towards the back end of the month Toots and I would run out of money, but still have access to a military Land Rover, free fuel, and be able to get packed lunches for a Wednesday “sports afternoon”, so we’d take a run down to Portland and shore dive off Chesil Beach, along the disused sewage pipe outlet where Cuttle-Fish often appeared and would shift their beautiful colours as they decided if we were a threat or not……

“03/05/’95 SHORE DIVE – Chesil Cove – Portland Pure pleasure dive hunting round the outlet, through Kelp fields, a couple of Wrasse, a Pipe Fish, a large Cuttle Fish & plenty of Pollack (small) couple of Spider Crabs – very enjoyable – Air In 230  W/Temp 14’ Viz 3m Buddy Toots”

Strangely, I can only find one other of the Chesil Beach dives, out of what must have been close to half a dozen we did there, recorded in my log-book, (although there are several more named as “1^st Beach Chesil”….) and it’s one that was only memorable for how poor the Viz was:

“29/03/’95 SHORE DIVE – Chesil – Portland Looking for the Adelaide – Viz too low to dive with  2 novices aborted immediately (Nil @ 12m ) Buddy Simon & Toots”

On that dive I had Toots with me and thankfully had a buddy line between us, there simply was no Viz, it was as dark as any coal cellar (for those of you who remember such places) and I had to hold Simon, our novice diver, next to me and pull Toots in by the line and feel for her thumb, which I jerked up three or four times to signal we were out of there….. For anyone who dives Chesil Beach, anywhere down its length, the greatest challenge is undoubtedly the exit, the stones are steep from the on-shore wave action, and stacked high…… as your legs work to get up the rise from the waterline, where, if you are in any kind of “chop”, the waves are trying to beat you down and drag you back in, your feet sink into the mass of stones, and it is damn tiring, especially following a decent length of dive, weighed down with heavy cylinders and a weight belt……. believe me

There would be many other shore dives over the remaining years I had left in the Army, all of them spent, bar two live tours, in Tidworth……..Portland offered a variation of shore diving, from the rocks below the lighthouse on the point to the rock bays around 1^st Beach, Church Ope Cove and Pulpit Rock, to the drift dives below Ferry Bridge pushing you into the sheltered harbour at anywhere between 6m and thigh depth at low tide (as I found when we were picking up divers in the club RIB some years after I’d left the Army and started up Deep Blue Diving),

all these shore dives gave us a wide variety of sub-marine life, from Cuttle-Fish dancing around the kelp around the disused out-fall pipe, to Spider Crabs and Brown crabs hiding in nooks and crannies on the occasional outcrop away from the shore-line, and encrusted old anchors with Mussels and Anemones off 1^st beach, where vessels had run ashore so long ago as to be lost in history. The Bill at Portland, and Chesil Beach, just around that headland, offer some of the best shore-diving England has to offer, but it wasn’t the only South Coast shore diving I have done

There were many others, Lulworth Cove was one, although unremarkable at the time, with little to see, it was one of my first Beach entry (walk-in) dives and I enjoyed the swim around such an iconic bay, there were more too, the pier at Swanage, just around the coast from Portland, was one Toots and I did occasionally, and the first time I saw anyone just drag their dry-suit over their standard day clothes and get in……..I’m sure that was more time-affected than simple bravado, we had got there a little later than expected and light was fading, so it wasn’t quite the je-ne-sais-pas it seemed, and luckily the dry-suit didn’t flood either or it would have been a wet drive back to Tidworth ………

“07/01/’95 SHORE DIVE – Swanage Pier – escorting novice – a root about the pier footings. Very little to see, the odd Crab and a Pipe Fish. Practiced A A S breathing W Temp 8’ Air In 220 Out 150 Buddy Toots Viz Down below 1m throughout.”

I didn’t just restrict myself to the South Coast for shore diving either, Anglesey saw me take my father-in-law, Tim, diving in a gulley just off Porth Castell which is a great little dive approaching high tide, there’s plenty of room to lay out kit and kit-up and a gentle entry direct from the sandy little beach there too

“18/08/96 Shore Dive – Splash @ Treaddur off the rocks to the left & up & down the gully just for fun Air In 140 Out 100 Viz 3m Buddy Tim”

The gully at Ravens’ Point is a hidden little gem at Treaddur Bay, although there was nothing dramatic to see on the day, I recall several small fish and a couple of shy crabs in crevices, the swell of the incoming tide gently lifting and dropping us in its never ending rhythm, and kelp fronds waving, in the odd clump that managed to hold-fast in the face of the Irish sea and its vagaries of weather fronts. You can reach the gully by following the headland around to its limits on the left side of the bay, there are rock out-crops and a low cliff headland going on around to Penrhos Bay, a favourite of mine since the halcyon days of childhood holidays in our family caravan at Rhyny’s caravan park near Moelfre

“14/04/94 Inland Dive Waterlip Quarry Somerset Cold & Dark No Viz from 12m – Nothing to see, W Temp 6’ Air In 200 – Out 50 Viz 0.5m – Nil Buddy Adrian”

Of course, there were plenty of quarry dives too, from Waterlip, in the Mendip Hills, historically used as a training site for the Cave Diving Group (and yes, there is a cave dive at Waterlip….who knew…?) Vivian Quarry in Wales, Dosthill Quarry in the West Midlands, and of course the quarry probably closest to me, Stoney Cove (where I have dived over 25 years or so to date), and on up to Jackdaw Quarry, or Capernwray as it is more commonly known now, on the borders of the Lake District near Carnforth

Just a line on Vivian Quarry in particular, Vivian in Llanberis, Wales, is one of the most picturesque places I’ve ever visited, a small and very hidden gem of outstanding natural, and indeed industrial, beauty that merits a look even if you do not have your diving gear with you (you’ll wish you had, I promise)

These quarries have given a safe diving environment to millions of British Scuba & Technical Divers over many decades now, and offer almost unlimited training opportunities, from your very first open water dive to deep tri-mix and Re-Breather diving, some with depths of 100m and more. It is easy to overlook the role of quarries in shore diving but they likely see many more divers than the actual coastal shores around us, where most of the diving is now predominately boat based  

I have a great deal of respect for quarry diving in whatever form it is undertaken, I have enjoyed diving quarries when otherwise it was impossible at the coast, because of the weather or the sheer cost of taking a trip 150 miles or so, with all the expense that entails for fuel and even accommodation, and the very real possibility that the sites are blown out on arrival, and you are lighter in the pocket but no better off in diving experience……. When I say “Safe” there is of course no truly “safe” dive, being underwater is inherently unsafe, no matter what skill level you have, nor how good your equipment, but if you have an incident and you are inland at a quarry site, you have on site safety services with you far quicker than you might at a remote shore site or off-shore too. My first ever dive in Stone Cove was way back in February of 1994:

“SHORE DIVE – First Fresh Water Dive, Took a look round the Wessex helicopter @ Stoney Cove good viz – 10m –‘ish Shoals of Roach & Perch  One 2-3 pounder Cold & Fun  W Temp 10’ Air In 200 Out 70 Buddy Mark”

It is not only scuba diving that you can get at inland sites if you are lucky enough either, although I believe that, tragically, the Historic Diving Society no longer offers the Surface Supply Standard Diving Equipment experience, I was one of those lucky enough to take a “traditional” dive using hard-hat, lead boots and hand pumped air to walk the ledge at Stoney Cove…….

“15/06/13 STONEY COVE HARD HAT DIVE a “full dress” Siebe Gorman dive on the shelf with John Smillie & the HDS which was bloody great! The kit is extremely heavy & the standard boots murder to walk on topside or below as rocks mean you are very unbalanced but it is ace having comms and hearing the hand – pumped air fill the helmet – suit “pants” if the valve is set slack which was odd! Walked about, trapped the hose between rocks & had to back-track & watched divers pass me & land on me as ever – fantastic fun Viz 6m Air In….loads!!”

I have been privilidged to shore dive abroad too, my very first shore dive in Croatia was escorting a course of novice divers I had trained back in Zagreb, whilst on the air-base there on a UN tour. The difference in the water temperature and visibility in some locations abroad cannot be ignored, in many cases it is a world apart and whilst the UK can, and does, have some brilliant diving it is hard to argue that the warmer, sometimes 30m plus visibility abroad is a much more tempting prospect, especially as I got inevitably older…….

I took my “oppo” Phill for a shore dive around the headland a little from the training site at Punta Verudella, a completely impromptu decision one afternoon just to top out the day’s training exercises and kick back a little:

“19/11/92 SHORE DIVE – Punta Verudella – Croatia Hunting again round the rocks colours different as the light faded, nearly run over by a fisherman W/Temp 17’ Air In 200 Out 100”

Another terse description of a dive that I really enjoyed, the unknown nature of the area and the rocky headland were a joy, as was the pine tree cover fringing the shore right down to the water’s edge. I loved the bimble around despite having to keep a keen eye on Phill as he was only just out of is novice course. This was a dive where the setting Sun dropped quickly and we ended our ferret around the limestone rock gullies only a little before full sun-set. It was to be one of a number of really enjoyable shore dives around Punta Verudella

I am lucky enough to have shore dived in a few very prestige places abroad, Croatia, Cyprus, The Red Sea, Lanzarote, Jamaica and the Falkland Islands to name a few, my next “foreign” shore dive was a shakeout dive that Cydive, the facility I had chosen to dive with on a brief holiday, immediately after my UN tour in Croatia (staying with Phill who had been posted out there on his return to the UK along with his wife), I was invited over to stay for a week and couldn’t resist diving whilst there, obviously….the military club there had let me down, they were a stand-off, RAF lot who weren’t interested in an “outsider”, even a serving soldier, just turfing up to dive with them, clearly, as the dive officer just kept putting up more and more barriers prior to me departing the UK. In the end I just decided “sod em” and booked with Cydive, who were absolutely wonderful, despite insisting on the checkout (quite rightly) but graciously not charging me for it……before we dived Zenobia, the ferry lost on her maiden voyage off Larnaca, another dive written up elsewhere on this blog

Shore Diving in Jamaica was a rare privilidge, this time on an Army expedition led by Don Shirley, who I would dive again with on the Falkland Islands exped. Our first check-out dive was from the shore in the marina on the headland at Port Royal, of Pirate City fame…..Unknowingly we would be diving in the area most recently surveyed and presented in a TV reconstruction of the Earthquake & Tsunami that brought the “Most wicked & depraved city on earth” to its’ knees without a single shot being fired, the resultant liquefaction submerging 2/3 of the town and taking a square mile of the isthmus below the waves for good

“15/06/94 SHORE DIVE – Port Royal – Jamaica Buoyancy check & shake-out dive Air In 140 Out 100 W/Temp 28’ Buddy Dean”

The description falls short of the dive, both Dean and I came out of the water with aching head’s which prompted me to stop any further check-outs and have the air-bank checked, it showed a blown seal and oil contamination in our air…..it’s not always just the kit we use under the water that can be checked without using a boat to dive….. We had many more shore dives off Jamaica though…. Including my very first night dive:

“20/06/94 SHORE DIVE – Dragon Bay (JA) 1^st True Night Dive _ Around a Coral bay sometimes down to 0.5m depth –two large Puffer Fish – a Sea Snake – lots of smaller reef fish beautifully coloured – a couple of Crayfish. A great dive – Air In 110 – Out 70 W Temp 23’ Buddy Steve

Those of you of a “particular age” may recognise the location from a popular film of the era, the clue’s in the photo title…….. an additional clue, if one was needed…. it’s just around the corner from Frenchman’s Quay, where yet another popular film was made from a book by Henry De Vere Stacpoole, around the same time, featuring a certain “Lagoon” and an often very scantily clad Brooke Shields

My next few shore dives would be in waters with more in common with Scotland than Jamaica or Croatia, in the Falkland Islands, on a military dive expedition in 1996……Another expedition I carried out with Don Shirley and none the less adventurous but definitely no sunshine tour:

“05/01/96 SHORE DIVE – GULL HARBOUR – Weddell Island South Atlantic (Falklands) Shakeout dive through the kelp – largest I’ve ever seen – loads of Squat Lobster & then into an old wreck ( a brig size) plenty of timber left to root round, over to port I think. W Temp 10’ Viz 4-5m Air In 200 Out 150 Buddy Chris”

I have a special affinity with the Falkland Islands and the Islanders (the true Falkland Islanders), having returned there to work for a year recently, as a direct result of my love for the place following our expedition, it is a stunning place with the most amazing wildlife and a stark and heart aching rugged beauty. Although it is very difficult to get there even in these days of air-travel, it is well worth a visit (Becky Schott, the superb diver photographer does the occasional trip there, however, you will need to be quite (very) well off to consider joining….) We would carry out a few more shore dives on that tour, and that dive proves you can come across the most amazing things whilst shore diving, the vessel noted turned out to be the Castalia, a wreck with an interesting historical significance that I also cover elsewhere in this blog…….

Interspersed with the “exotic” side of shore diving there was always the ever-present Stoney Cove, however we did occasionally abandon the cove for shores further afield….one of those was the starkly beautiful Wastwater, a Cumbrian remnant from the ice-age, the deepest of the English Lake-District waters and one a little more off-track than Windermere or Coniston:

“02/04/00 WASTWATER CUMBRIA – Deep Dive, Down to the Gnome Garden for bottom time after setting up stage for deco. Viz 5m ish Air In 230 Out 110 W Temp 8’ Buddy’s Darren & Jason”

Wastwater offered a deeper option than Stoney which bottoms out at 36m, Wastwater has depths down beyond 60m and is an ideal technical dive-site, very accommodating for advanced Nitrox and Tri-Mix or Re-Breather diving, (by which I mean in terms of depth, there are no dive-oriented facilities locally, I believe the closest gas provider would be Capernwray…..) albeit a lot further to travel, the up-side being there is little chance of a dive being “blown out” by weather, it’s not impossible, just very unlikely…….

Shore diving also includes, of course, cave and cavern diving, although I don’t claim to be anything more than “interested” in this type of diving, I have, again, had the privilidge of diving many sites in several widely separate locations, from Croatia to the USA and Mexico, my first ever cavern dive was at the world famous Ginnie Springs in Florida:

“Ginny – Springs Florida USA A glimpse of the realms of cave diving. The training grounds for the greats – Exley Palmer- Farr. The cave system starts here but is now grilled shut about 40m back in the cavern where water surges up at 1kt. The cavern is a delight with a squeeze & several off shoot grotto like areas trapped air on the roof reflects like a mirror ball when lit from below – a superb dive with ghosts of greats as buddys – just out of sight!! Air In 250 – Out 150 Buddy Kent”

I only had one day diving at Ginnie Springs and dived it twice, I would not get another cavern/cave dive until a couple of years later when we were in Lanzarote with some of the divers from Fenton Sub Aqua Club, Jason one of my dive-masters had lived there for a year and recommended we visited to dive, who was I to argue? Blue Eyes Cave was an accessible dive from the Shore off a headland easily accessible to the dive-shop’s small truck, so we piled our dive kit in and headed out:

“25/10/04 LANZAROTE Blue Eyes Caves Long swim out to the cave with plenty of colourful fish with a very large Ray in the sand which took off as if “on cue” beautiful! A shoal of Barracuda with many fish just to our right & then into the cave from 14m to 30m a narrow entrance which has several “windows” allowing light in, then  into the main chamber full of nooks & crannies & air wells down a narrow hallway to exit from the skulls left eye. Very nice dive, off back to deco through the ascent & climb out up the shore rock plateau. Nitrox 32% Air In 200 Out 60 Buddy Jim Leigh”

I have been lucky enough to be indulged by my wonderful wife Ellie and my family when on holidays that are strictly “Non-Diving Affairs”….(per-se)……. and have enjoyed the odd shore dive in the Red Sea (and elsewhere), a couple have included our children although Ellie was not as comfortable with that, as a non-diver, if I am perfectly honest

We ended up in the Crowne Plaza in Sharm el Sheikh in 2006 on such a holiday along with good friends Mark Hill and his wife Kerry and their daughter Alicya, Lee Lewis & Kai were all old enough (just) to take a discover Scuba off Far Garden Reef which the hotel backs onto

“FAR GARDEN – Sharm el Sheik Diving with Kai and Lee & Lewis fantastic experience to show Kai and the boys truly beautiful fish and a marvellous reef. Everything was there Parrot Fish, Butterfly Fish, Dory’s – allsorts!! Wonderful Air In 220 Out 100”

The entry was down the dive-centre’s stairs directly onto the edge of the coral reef, the boys all loved the dive and Lee and Alycia carried out a second dive later that day, so at least I have been able to give them a taste of the magical world that sits just under the surface….let’s see what they eventually do with that……..

A particularly different dive, which is a shore dive, but also an overhead environment dive of sorts (you’ll understand in a minute) is “The Rez” a dive very close to home up in the back-woods just outside Stoke on Trent, which is literally down the road from me in Uttoxeter. The Rez is, as you might deduce from the name, a reservoir, but this one comes with a difference, as it is one of the metal constructions which carried reserves of fresh water which I believe were deliberately hidden underground to prevent damage from bombing during WWII. That is the story I have been told and it seems plausible to me at least. Back in 2008 you could dive one of these reservoirs, and I took Mark Hill with me to get him back in the water after a bit of a diving absence for him arising from work and family commitments:

“06/07/08 THE REZ – Underground Reservoir – Taking Mark back into low-viz dives – great rooting around & in & out of the block wall rabbit hole’s Viz Nil but water clear after entry Air In 150 Out 100”

The Rez is a strange dive, the water is seldom deeper than 2m and the entry is down a set of metal mesh stairs to a platform allowing you to hunch down and drop into the water which you then swim around using a torch (or not…. if you prefer), through various access holes in the metal wall framework, separating the 40m or so square site into “rooms” effectively….want a challenge? try to navigate yourself in and back out without your torch (torch in first can work too) you’ll be surprised how difficult it turns out to be, and it’s a safe way of learning a very harsh lesson…wreck penetration with no line is a fools game, with a very silly “prize” for those who believe themselves un-requiring of such trivialities as wreck penetration lines…….

I was lucky enough to spend three separate holidays in Mexico, diving with my friend Eric “Budgie” Burgess, an ex-Royal Navy colleague from my very earliest days of shore diving off Portland in Dorset. Budgie had two RIBs run out of the Breakwater Hotel, in Castletown, Portland way back in the early ‘90’s, and then ran the Aqua Sport Hotel and Dive Operation, until wanderlust took him off to become perhaps the most experienced dive-guide in the Tulum area in the Cenote’s of the Yucatan:

“24/02/15 DOS OJOS (Two Eyes) Cenote Mexico The Barbie Run – Through the first Cenote I have dived with Budgie – the first dive we have done together despite 25 years in the business together!! A small cavern entrance with a wide pool to descend then winding through the caverns through the tunnels & into air bells. The scenery is fantastic the stalagmites & stalactites everywhere with shapes cut into the Limestone by water & the rains when the caves were dry. Hopefully captured some of this on the Go-Pro – Awesome experience but the re-breather is still a maul – still a pain re- buoyancy Viz Unlimited Air In 3L 180 Bar Out 80 Bar Buddy Budgie”

I took many, many Shore Dives over the three visits to Tulum and the Yucatan, some multiple times and some just once, I will cover them in other pieces in this blog and hopefully this just illustrates another different type of dive available from direct entry or a shore, of sorts

Another of those “Not a Diving Holiday” dives, to show I am not just a wreck-obsessed rust junkie, (Ok….I admit it…I am) was off the beach at the Hilton Dreams in Sharm el Sheikh, a simple walk across the road from the hotel, with all the gear being down at the beach ready for me….kitting up and walk in, as simple as that:

“06/04/13 RED SEA – Sharm – el Sheikh Bay at the Hilton Dreams Beach, in over the sand to see a large (5’) Green Turtle munching on Sea Grass. Down to 18m to a coral outcrop with very pretty Angels (Masked) and two Spotted Rays and over & round to see Pipe Fish, Clown Fish, Puffers, Nudibranchs & on to sand again to a feeding Eagle Ray (2’) a very pleasant holiday dive we ended on a 5’ Grouper sat in broken pipework – lovely dive Buddy Gary Air In 200 Out 65 Viz 20m”   

   

 On one of my frequent visits to Croatia, I put aside my obsession with wrecks for a moment….alright, there was a day we couldn’t get to the wreck site I wanted…..and I decided to take my kit back around to the local Lobster and Sea-Food restaurant made far too popular in that damn movie “Mamma Mia”. Ellie and I love the place and I’d asked if they wouldn’t mind me dropping in that evening dressed in rubber….they said “fill your boots but do not dream of freeing the Lobsters”……:

“31/08/21 SHORE DIVE Komiza Night Dive from the slip by the apartments just for the sake of it! Pain in the ass getting the gear in place from Manta to the slip but fun! Went round the rocks under a clear sky of stars & ferreted round a ridge to reach the Jastozera (Mamma Mia) restaurant & swam in & round their Lobster pen! Plenty of small fish around & the odd Urchin to be wary of. A great fun dive in 3m & less of water Air In 200 Out 170”

And so, to conclude this far longer than expected tome on Shore Diving, a piece I honestly believed I would struggle to get anything meaningful around……I offer my very last (so-far) shore dive, taken just a year or so ago whilst working in the Falkland Islands, off Cape Pembroke a couple of miles outside Port Stanley, under the watchful eye of the Pembroke Lighthouse, the most Southern Lighthouse in the world

“02/04/23 CAPE PEMBROKE Falkland Islands 1^st dive back in the Falkland Islands & a Shore Dive to the left of the Lighthouse @ Cape Pembroke, where the crane used to be sited at the pillars in a gully. Entry was easy but lower water than I expected Sea was full of Kelp debris perhaps a storm had trashed some fronds as the floor was a matt of “leaves” 20 minutes bimble around the rock walls out to the mouth & back Max Depth 8m Air In 150 Out 120”

I had been lucky enough to get a “fill” from David Eynon, the writer of the dive book “Beneath Falkland Waters” written about David’s many diving adventures over some 20 years or more around the Falklands, which I’d read, but compressors out there are very few and jealously guarded….I had expected this to be the first of many dives out there, sadly that was not to be, the diving has essentially ceased, the military club disbanded in the Covid years, so there’s nothing unless you join the local conservation group, who catalogue the myriad small species in certain at risk & conservation areas, although I got in touch with them, sadly the contract I had taken turned out to be one I wanted to get out of….wrong people….wrong attitude type of affair I’m afraid, so that was the last Shore dive in my log so far, and, very sadly, the last dive I’d get in the Falklands….I hope one day to return, there is so much more there to dive……

Why not take the last dive with me…….

As always this piece would be far less interesting without the contributions of others, namely, for their excellent photos: [email protected], Edd Mitchell, reddit.com, Ginnie Springs, josoceanmedia.com & Vivien of [email protected] to all of whom, including of course David Eynon for my Falklands air fill and his inspiring book, Beneath Falkland Island Waters, I am enormously grateful

My Family & Underwater Animals

When PADI introduced the “Seal Team” dive experiences for children of 10 years old in 2001, I was teaching scuba in Fenton Manor Pool, undertaking diver training courses with Deep Blue Diving, and running Fenton Sub Aqua Club. Several parents in FSAC had children and, quite naturally, were interested in diving experiences for their kids (as divers themselves), however this also raised some significant moral issues for me personally, and some underlying physiological issues for the diving industry in general. Firstly let’s take the moral issue up and clear the air on this……. How young is too young? That has to be question one, and it is a corker, it is easy to see that not every child grows at the same rate, it is fairly easy to identify that not all children grow emotionally at the same rate, perhaps even in the same way too. Then there is the physiology behind the growth, just to complicate matters at a more scientific level, primarily because no two doctors seem to agree on specifics to do with heart strength, lung capacity, muscle functionality and a whole host of other serious considerations, inner ear robustness, Eustachian tube development, cardio-pulmonary function, asthma and respiratory performance, patent foramen ovale development (closure rate/efficiency etc) ….etc. All of that is only one facet of the moral dilemma facing a parent’s concerns, and, as I have three of my own kids, this was of paramount importance to me personally, and to Ellen, who was by far the more cautious about the level of involvement Lee, Lewis & Kai could ever have in my hobby

I had other factors in the moral dilemma of dive-parenting to consider too……notwithstanding physiological, psychological and emotional maturity concerns, I trained for 3 agencies, PADI, BSAC and IANTD, all of which had distinctly differing direction on what age could be considered as lower limits for diver training. As a parent, and hopefully one with a very determined sense of safety where my kids were concerned, it seemed to me that doctors would never offer solid guidance on physiology, that no psychologist would give general direction on emotional maturity, and that no training agency would agree on age limits in regards to training, unless their insurers could be convinced the risk had almost entirely been removed from a liability perspective. So it seemed that PADI were taking a risk by encouraging 10 year olds to start learning to dive, and that, consequently, those training divers under the PADI system would be taking enormous personal risk, should they start to involve kids as young as 10 in any type of scuba diving training

Things weren’t any easier for me as Ellen was not a particular fan of the water, having been nearly drowned in a swimming pool whilst very young, playing the usual silly games with her peers and almost coming unstuck under an inflatable “lilo” as we used to call them back in the day……So all pool activities with the kids were seen as “nerve-wracking”….something the lads had become incredibly good at taking advantage of, in the usual manner of children trying to scare their mother’s to death at every possible opportunity. It was not unusual at all for the dive-masters, helping out with training courses on a Sunday, to be tapped on the shoulder by any one of the lads, who would then give the “out of air” signal, knowing the Divemasters had no choice but to offer their alternate air sources, much to the delight of each of the three of them, (knowing they would get a royal bollocking off me about interfering with training, possibly distracting from a real event….. etc, if I saw what they were up to, or if any of the rather amused dive-masters would actually tell me what had happened……..). It’s not a surprise there are no photos of the lads piggy-backing down the pool on a spare regulator (I’d have had the evidence if there had been….), strange that, considering how many of my team had cameras with them in the pool…….You can imagine Ellen’s face as any one of them jumped in (I found out later that they would often put a 2 Kg loose weight in their shorts pockets to help them get down quicker too…crafty monkeys), and did not return to the surface for several minutes, eventually surfacing with a huge cheesy grin on their faces, then to add insult to perceived injury, pretending they couldn’t hear their mother scolding them from the pool-side…..

It wasn’t just the lads that delighted in a bit of what they considered “harmless fun” either, it didn’t surprise me that the other kids quickly copied them, in the manner of any peer group of youngsters, “daring” each other to push the envelope…….So the “emotional maturity” level had already been established, and the bar had been set somewhat low in my opinion, however, I had grown up in pools since I was a toddler. I remember trying to drown my dad with my brother Mike (on many occasions) in the Victoria Baths, on the front at Southport, and eventually listening to his advice on how to dive in, how to swim underwater, and slowly realising he knew a whole lot more than me or my brothers ever would about swimming. I also remember it was my own mother who was far more cautious and restricting of our swimming both in the pools and, later, as we swam in streams and then rivers, and eventually the sea off beaches and then off the rocks at Moelfre, in Anglesey, whilst on family holidays

I understood the PADI basis for introducing younger children to the underwater world, commercially it makes sense to try to ensure you have “early engagement” in an arena where there are many interests and hobby’s in contention for market share, surfing, football, baseball, skate-boarding, BMX….etc. It also means you have customers for longer, which means you will sell more support materials and more dive equipment through each stage of diving undertaken from childhood all the way through to adulthood, however I knew I did not, and never would condone the commercial aspect of training children. I did not want the responsibility implicit in that on my conscience, should something tragic ever occur to a child I had trained, or to have to face the parent of a child I had trained, lost whilst diving, under any circumstances. These were issues bad enough in situations where any adult was injured or lost whilst diving, let alone those where a young life might be taken, and parents be denied the joys of watching their child through all the years of this journey humanity undertakes. I would not train young divers, those below an age I considered realistic enough for them to take on the serious nature of the wonders of the deep. I (privately) believed that to be around 16 years or so, depending on the individual maturity displayed by those asking for courses at the try-dive stages, or in the early lessons of the Open Water Diver courses run at Fenton under the Deep Blue Diving banner

I had more than a little trouble with my conscience over other people’s children than I admitted I had towards my own though. Ellen’s concerns were sufficient to begin with, however, my own kids had been around me at every level of my diving, joining me with Ellen at dive sites all over the country from when we were dating, whilst I was in the Army, and continuing through my setting up and taking on Deep Blue Diving and FSAC. It would not be easy for me to deny them a chance to dive with me should they ever express an interest, and that was what I relied on, interest! I had decided I could avoid the question for as long as none of the lads actually asked me if they could have a go at diving, I almost got away with it……..Almost

It would not be until 2006 that any of the lads really expressed any interest in actually giving diving a go, we had decided on a family holiday in Sharm el Sheikh, and were there with Mark & Kerry Hill and their young family. Mark, his daughter Kelly and her sister Alycia had taken courses with me, and we had become firm friends with Mark and Kerry, their mother, over the last few years. It turned out we were all going to be in Sharm at the same time, it was never planned that way, it just ended up “co-incidentally”, as a kind of joint holiday and Mark and I had decided to take a day boat (The “Wind K”) to Thistlegorm whilst we were there. Lee had just turned 14 and the two year gap between each of them put Lewis at 12 and Kai at 10

Now Alycia wanted to dive the Far Garden reef, off the beach near the front of the Crowne Plaza, where we were staying (Mark & Kerry and their family were down the road at the Hilton Sharm Dreams), and that raised the question…. “Why doesn’t Lee join us” from Alycia as, with Alycia around 16, the two of them were very close in age. That question was nuclear…..it must have been 30 seconds later when Kai piped up…. “Why can’t I go if Lee goes….” And that just meant Lewis wasn’t going to be left out “You’re not going if I’m not…..”   and that is where Ellen and I might have ended up divorced. I guess the Red Sea has a lot to thank it for in reality, Ellen had taken the plunge only the day before, and snorkeled with me off the floating piers in front of the Crowne Plaza, seeing millions of beautiful fish beneath her, and even Ellen could not deny the water was warm, crystal clear, and reasonably shallow there…….I suggested the lads tried a pool session before anyone decided anything, but that if they liked it, and did OK with the hotel instructor, then I would take them in with the instructor….. and we would see how it went from there…… Ellen, very reluctantly agreed…eventually!

I never doubted for a moment that any of the lads would fail to impress the hotel Instructor, and I was not disappointed. Despite three very different sizes, and three distinctly different personalities (Lee the aloof surly teenager, Lewis the eager and matter-of-fact consummate water-baby, and Kai determined not to be out of whatever depth he’d got himself into…..), each of them took to the kit like it was second nature, even Kai, and it was nice to see Lewis carefully helping Kai to kit up too! I think even Ellen was beginning to relax as she saw them drop easily under the water and swim about, stopping to take off their masks, and then put them back on with the ease of kids with no fear of the water whatsoever, it might be that “indestructible” attitude we had to be most careful of when they each got out of the pool into the Red Sea itself…….

I had agreed with the instructor that the decision would be hers on all three of the boys, and when it came to it she was more than happy all three would be safe doing a shore dive off the steps down the rocks in front of the Hotel’s dive centre, and along the inshore reef where Ellen had snorkelled with me so recently. We swapped the cylinders from the boy’s kit, and traipsed enthusiastically down the stairs to the wooden pier, and short steps into the Sea…….My Log book records it: “FAR GARDEN – SHARM EL SHEIK – Diving with Kai and Lee & Lewis Fantastic experience to show Kai and the boy’s truly beautiful fish and a marvellous reef. Everything was there, Parrot Fish, Butterfly Fish, Dorys – allsorts!! Wonderful! Air in 220 Out 100” Now as you will by now know, I am not given to long and descriptive dive log entries (partly because I listened to Chuck Russett at Bovisands all those years before when he said, “…..it won’t take long to fill these logs up if you gush at every dive, make it count, remember it from the description don’t try to get everything in there!” I’d listened, and it works…), I can remember feeling excited for the lads, and feeling I had to be on my top game, just to ensure not a single expression from any of them was missed, that nothing would be allowed to cause an issue, and that I was responsible for the 3 most precious lives I’d ever known, through every second of this dive….. I also remember checking with each of them to make sure they were OK, that they didn’t miss anything I spotted, and that, more important than anything else, they were looking relaxed and enjoying this……

When they got out of the water there was a different expression on each face, the surly “cool” of Lee’s teenage disdain for adults was replaced with one of an excited kid again, Lewis was beaming from ear to ear and even Kai, smaller, and therefore a little chilled by this time, was babbling through chattering teeth about how cool it was on the reef, whilst the fierce Egyptian Sun warmed his bones back up! I was elated, I had finally shown my kids what an awesome thing diving was, and how beautiful it was under the sea, I couldn’t have been happier and I couldn’t wait to hear what they told Ellen……..would she believe them….. or, would she just be relieved that they were all back in one piece, who knew!

Lee must have enjoyed it, Ellen let him take a second dive with us that afternoon, Lewis & Kai stayed on shore as Ellen thought it “a bit too much” for them to do two dives in one day, I think she’d been worried when they said they had been a little chilled towards the end of the dive, but Lee wanted to join Mark and Alycia for one last dive, so my log goes on to say: “FAR GARDEN – SHARM El SHEIK – Lee’s second dive along with Alycia and Mark, again so much to see, Lemon Ray & Fan Coral – Anemones – Just about everything!! Wonderful dive in 28’ water Fantastic!! Air In 220 Out 110 Buddy’s Mark Lee & Alycia” Another abridged descriptive to capture a thousand moments, within a 35 minute dive, in the most beautiful of places, and another shared experience with my eldest son, after a dive with all 3 of my sons, a truly special time!

I started this piece as a look at Children and Diving and have detailed my own experiences as a parent of three young kids, one at the lowest of the age groups determined suitable to dive in open water. My lads represented a range stretching from the PADI’s youngest dive age to the lowest age I honestly believe it “might” be practical to consider teaching a child to dive, although, even that is two years before I would look at teaching anyone to dive in UK waters. The piece is, in a way, “hypocritical” insomuch as I clearly took my 10 year old youngest son and his 12 year old brother diving in the Red Sea. I also said, earlier in the piece, that I personally think 16 is the lowest age I would consider “professionally” training a youngster to dive, so why the hypocrisy then? This isn’t “Do as I say….. Not as I do” as far as I am concerned, the difference between a dive in the crystal clear, and very warm, prolifically abundant eco-system of the Red Sea, and a disused quarry in the UK cannot be understated. The equipment required, the visibility, and the temperature alone make it an obvious and expressly different environment training and diving in the UK, to that of the more benign, perhaps more benevolent Red Sea. It is, however, a hostile and life-threatening place to be in either case, the saltwater of the Red Sea is just as un-breathable as that of the South Coast or the Welsh beaches, but the nature of the Red Sea, with little tidal range, with often 50 or 60 meters of visibility, in water warm enough to wear the thinner, more flexible and less restrictive shorty suits, and the beauty of the often sheltered and shallow reefs, makes the decision a far less risk-oriented exercise, one that you can see children being not only able to cope with, but one that will serve their generation far better than ours, once it is experienced  

At the end of the day, the decision comes down to the parents, and the physical abilities and intellectual maturity of the child themselves, not the arbitrary and maybe even largely commercial decision placed on age limits by Diver Training Agencies

….For The Night is Dark and Full of Terrors

My very first real night dive was in Jamaica, Dragon Bay, 20^th June 1994…..The bay is truly beautiful and was the location of the beach-bar scenes in the Tom Cruise film Cocktail. It’s nice to say I had a couple of beers at that bar and swam in the pool overlooking the white sand of Dragon Bay, if you want to hear more then you can read about the Jamaica trip and Dragon Bay in earlier posts in this section of the blog. As this piece is about night diving more than exotic locations let me set the scene……I wanted a real night dive, in fact I had wanted one since surfacing from a dive in the Adriatic, in the dying light of an afternoon, way back in Pula in 1992 two years since. The clear water of the Adriatic and the ever darkening blue of the sea around me was fascinating, like the transition into a deep sleep as the peripheral vision closes down and the mind drifts off into the peace of the dark of the subconscious…….

I had many experiences of diving in very low viz, from Chesil beach, where, literally, the lights went out at 3m and I had needed to use Toot’s thumb to repeatedly jerk her hand up to indicate it was time to end the dive, I couldn’t honestly see her at the end of my arm……..to “the washing machine” dive, where Igor & Jellico had taken me on my first cave dive, off Pula in the Adriatic. It wasn’t as if I had no experience of darkness under the sea….it was just I had never actually planned and executed a dive after dark and with all the equipment needed for the event. All that was about to change just a few days after my 34^th Birthday, on the pristine white sands of the shallow bay in front of Dragon Bay! My Buddy was Steve and we had been offered the expedition camera on the strict instructions from Don Shirley….”Don’t fcuking flood it, break it……. or lose it”……. Seemed simple enough!

  The entry was a simple one and we waited till the Sun was really low in the sky before kitting up in front of the “Cocktail” bar, whilst the other members of the team were still popping Red-Stripes by the pool or on the veranda of the hotel restaurant, their kit drying in the heat of the evening. It is never easy walking backwards into the sea in clumsy dive kit, but we managed it without stumbling over the occasional coral and rock shelves in the shallow bay, and lay back into the cool water as the Sun disappeared below the horizon….time to switch on the torches and submerge…….

My dive log is, as usual, less than eulogizing of the occasion “Shore Dive – Dragon Bay (JA) 1^st True Night Dive – Around a coral bay sometimes down to 0.5m depth – Two large Puffer Fish – a Sea Snake – Lots of smaller reef fish beautifully coloured – a couple of lg Crayfish A great dive – Air in 110 – Out 70 W/Temp 23’ Buddy Steve”   Now there was no real need for more than a hand-held torch on this dive and it showed me despite the dark, the clarity of the water makes a great deal of difference to the visibility once your eyes “dial in” to the darkness, something like the way your eyes adjust above the water at night, even the darkest night still allows you to see sufficiently to get about without slamming in to everything. In a small area like that of Dragon Bay there would be no real issues, in deeper more remote locations the ability to be seen from the surface, by those in the boat following your light beams under the water meant good, powerful torches were a necessity, it was either that, or surface marker buoys with light-sticks attached!

  My second night dive was again in Jamaica, this time off the Discovery Bay Marine Laboratory at Mona, (another piece written up elsewhere in this section of the blog) just a few days after the Dragon Bay dive. July 01^st of 1994 we were taken out in the University skiffs to do some diving with the research students as they checked out their marked observation and specimen areas. These areas often featured plastic “squares” which were made up to “grid” an area of interest, the marine life at any particular time could then be recorded, and the observation of seasonal or weather influenced changes noted, and “usual” state or “normal” established for a particular zone or reef. I would find myself noting several changes in condition whilst diving on this particular night………as the log book recalls: “Small Boat Dive Discovery Bay (Ja) Night Dive – Plenty to see Two small Leopard Rays – a huge Moray Eel – several Cuttle Fish and Lobsters, Two Sea Snakes and various reef fish – stung by Sea Wasp Jelly-Fish on ascent but great dive, clear star filled sky full of summer lightening on return – Great. Air In 210 Out 100 W/Temp 28’ Buddys Neil & Hayden”   Yet again I fail miserably to adequately describe the feelings and sights of the dive but the recollection as I type is absolute clarity…..firstly I can still physically recall the sting of the tiny Sea wasp Jellies…..there isn’t much above the surface that I can liken them too….imagine a very hot needle, a large needle, like a knitting needle say, one you had placed in a lit ring on your cooker for enough time to become Cherry Red, then imagine sticking it into yourself randomly six or seven times….not pleasant at all! I took hits to my groin, my thigh, my neck and to my face, one right on my top lip….it was bloody painful, eye wateringly so…. and they lasted for a good twenty minutes before subsiding enough to be given a stiff ignoring!

  I did no justice describing the lightening we surfaced to in such a small piece either, if you have ever witnessed a tropical storm at sea they can be nothing short of breathtaking! As we got back in the boat it was clear a storm was brewing and the sky was getting darker and more brooding as we headed back to the Uni, lightening flashing in the distance, thankful it was way offshore and nothing to worry the little marine lab skiffs we were diving from. Don, Hayden, Neil and I had sat on the veranda of the Dragon Bay restaurant a couple of nights before, watching a storm pass out to sea for an hour or so. Rain lashed the restaurant roof as we drank Red Stripe, in silence, just awestruck at the show God put on for us that evening. I have never thought of storms as frightening, they have always struck me as demonstrations that, no matter how clever the human race thinks itself, the true majesty of this Earth will never be something mere human beings can emulate. If nothing else, a tropical storm, with its clouds flaring in hues of Purple and Grey, lit by the most intense White light as bolts of electrical energy flash the skies or strike the sea, shows just how tiny and insignificant we are…… and will always be! I loved those two night dives in Jamaica and even though I have taken many since, will always think of those as perhaps the best, well apart from perhaps the wreck dives I have been lucky enough to take at night

The next time I would get to night dive would be back in the UK at Stoney cove, three years later in February of 1997, by this time I had started Deep Blue Diving and opened up an entirely new phase in my diving journey. Having taken my PADI Open Water Instructor exam and decided I could supplement my day-job with diver training, so my passion was not costing my new young family to support it, I was getting into the swing of training divers and the rigors of the PADI system, it wasn’t what I was used to in the British Sub Aqua Club (BSAC) and there were others I noticed perhaps not taking their students or the course requirements quite as seriously as I believed they should be. It was clear there were constraints on what could and couldn’t be, or more correctly “Shouldn’t” be taught on many occasions but the one that stuck out most to me was “Night Diving” which some instructors seemed to believe included the summer months of the UK season, where, on completing one’s “Night Dive” before the cove closed its doors at 21:00 on the 1^st or 3^rd Wednesday evening of each summer month, one could note the sky was still incredibly bright, with the Sun not yet touching the horizon behind the cove walls……… I disappointed quite a lot of our trainees by telling them I would only train them for night diving or take them on night dives when it was actually dark as they entered the water. Perhaps that cost me some students, perhaps they actually understood “Night” should mean “dark” or there wasn’t really much point and their money was being wasted……..? Either way it meant I would only get night dives in during the winter months at best, it also meant we had colder and clearer water in the cove which, for those embarking on their first ever descent into what is, to them, a perhaps somewhat frightening and dark quarry, made a difference when they were ready to shield their torches and realise they could actually see quite reasonably without torch beams everywhere around them. I had become so used to night diving in the first two years of Deep Blue Diving I preferred to dive the cove with my light switched off and navigate by sight alone, that skill did not come immediately though as my log book records…. 19^th Feb 1997: “Night Dive – Stoney – Leicester Tim and Another Buddy pair – 1 aborted (cold) so went on as a 3 good root round 7m Shelf & play in the pub Large Perch about and many Crayfish – great dive – fun round the cockpit – managed to tag onto wrong dive pair but re-located after 5 mins W/Temp 3’ Viz great – real choppy Air In 200 Out 90 Buddy Tim”. Two months later and I was back for another Advanced Open Water Course and took students around again: “Night Dive – Stoney Cove – Leicester A.O.W Cse (2) Trip round the well head – lg shoal of Perch about – eyes glowing – down round cockpit & on to the pub footings 10lb –ish Pike about but only 1 Crayfish plenty of Roach though! W/Temp 10’ Air In 220 Out 175 Buddy’s Tim – Barry”  It makes me smile to think my buddy’s for that evening were my youngest brother Barry and my Father-in-Law Tim, Ellie’s step-father, it is a source of joy to me to have given them both a start under the water……..

The next Night dive in my log sees me under the Aten (Ancient Egyptian for “the Sun’s disc”) in Egypt’s Red Sea with the first trip I took for a couple of the members of Fenton Sub-Aqua Club, the club supported by and driven from the students of Deep Blue Diving. I had two of the club with me, John Keeling and Colin Woodall, both good strong divers relishing the chance to get away from Stoke-on-Trent and under the seas in foreign lands…..It was only day two of the trip and our first Night Dive presented itself as we moored over at Sha’ab Um-Usk, which I had misheard and which ended up in my log as Sha’ab Ummush: 02/08/97 “Night Dive – Liveaboard – “Shaab Ummush” hunting coral & fish – lots to see – 2 Lionfish together very pretty – plenty of Urchins & many Shrimps just two red eyes gleaming – two pretty tube worms, beautiful colour of corals W/Temp 28’ Air In 210 Out 170 Buddy John Keeling”

The difference between Night dives in Stoney Cove and in the Red Sea cannot be understated, the Sun drops very much quicker in Egypt than it seems to do in Leicester for some reason………with a full 20’ difference in temperature and still beautifully clear waters……. I would see 1997 out with one last night dive, that would be in Stoney Cove and back to single digit temperatures, taking another advanced open water course in December as my log records: 03/12/1997 “A.O.W Night Dive Stoney Viz 8-10m Dropped over well head to road then round cockpit to Pub Great Fun – Air In 150 Out 100” It seems that 1997 was a good year for night diving! I suppose I averaged a dozen or so night dives per year over the next two years, training advanced open water courses, I won’t go through them all here as they were pretty much the same route every time, (down the Bus shelter uprights, across to the Viscount cockpit, Left along the shelf drop-off to the broken pipe, across to the pub footings and through the windows, then back along the shelf to the exit, initially at the ski-hut, occasionally, later on, to the steps in the newly made quayside) and for good reason

  I had determined that those making a transition from sometimes only 4 open water dives at Stoney Cove, would have a harder time if I added the uncertainty of a new direction, or area, as well as the stress of kitting up in the dark, additional equipment and the primordial Nyctophobia, or “Fear of the Dark” (I have a constant fear that something’s always near…… Smith S. In Maiden. I: “Fear of the Dark”. Published by EMI, May 1992). As a coping strategy for our advanced open water students, the Night Dive of the course was always the last of the 5 we took them through, (deep, navigation, dry-suit, multi-level & night were our usual A.O.W dive choices at Stoney, the first two being mandatory), and followed the reduction of light during the deep dive, and multi-level dive and their required familiarity with the route taken on the Navigation dive, which we took them out on and then invited them to take us back, in reverse order, using familiar references along the route that we had pointed out. If nothing else, when students finally took the giant stride into Stoney Cove on a Wednesday evening in the winter months, they knew where they were going and what they should see on the way out, and on the way back in……it didn’t always prevent a student deciding night diving wasn’t for them….but I am confident it did tip the balance for many of them! I had one of my best ever dives at Stoney Cove on a Wednesday evening in December of 1999, with Mark Hill, one of those students who quickly became a close personal friend, along with Kerry his wife and his son Leon and daughters Kelly and Alycia. I won’t relive that dive here, I will, when I am ready, write it up where it should be, another of those odd anomalies that you really don’t expect, one of the very moments that make life profound rather than abstract and one of those memories you can call to mind when all around looks a little too bleak……

  I returned to the Red Sea in 2006 with my family, no students, just us and a well-deserved rest after ten years of training divers through Deep Blue Diving. It was time to end that journey, a new job working with the military in Andover, Hampshire, meant I had no chance to continue running dives at the weekend, only to be away from the family through the week, to return to run dives again….it just wouldn’t work, so it was time to close the pool and say goodbye to Deep Blue Diving and the members of FSAC once and for all. The Egypt holiday was closure of a sort, as one pool closes, another one opens so to speak, and in this case I would finally get to take my three kids diving myself, in the warm and forgiving waters of Far Garden at the Northern extreme of Sharm el Sheik, but that’s a tale for another post! During the holiday I got to take a night dive on Far Garden as relaxation, nothing more, my dive log records: April 2006: “Night Dive – Far Garden – Sharm this time over towards Middle Garden (Right from the Crowne Plaza) finding everything we could – Barracuda, Lemon Rays, Lion Fish – Scorpion Fish fantastic corals and great opportunity to get real close to them too Air In 200 Out 65 Buddy Mark” Another of my dives with Marky and a great family holiday with our wives and children when they were still youngsters!

  The first real night dive I took on a wreck was on, to some, probably the most prestigious in the Red Sea, perhaps, to most, in the world. The SS Thistlegorm, sunk 06^th October 1941, went from an obscure transport vessel (carrying war materials bound for Alexandria, to support Montgomery and his Desert Rats during the Libya campaign against Rommel and the Afrika Corps), to Jacques Cousteau’s most celebrated find in the early scuba diving days of the 1950’s, and then on to become one of, if not “the” most iconic shipwrecks in diving history. If there is a wreck that more people have dived on then I will be very surprised, the James Egan Layne off Plymouth, in Bigbury Bay, is perhaps the next most dived wreck, having been consistently dived on over a far longer period than the Thistlegorm. After Cousteau left the wreck, having removed the ship’s bell and several other items, (the captain’s safe being one of them), Thistlegorm once again sank into obscurity until around 1990, when scuba diving from Sharm-el-Sheik started to become something of a diving tourist explosion, since then the Thistlegorm has been dived almost continually, it is not unusual to find upwards of 10 dive boats moored over her

   But I digress, it was 30^th April of 2010 on the Liveaboard MV Hurricane when I was lucky enough to get a chance to dive her at night, and what a dive it was, I had dived Thistlegorm 5 or 6 times before by then but never at night, my log book recalls: “Shab-Ali “Thistlegorm” a night dive on Thistlegorm for my first time on this wreck. Down the shot to midships at the accommodation & round to the Starboard companionway, to the bows & across into the Port door of the rope & chain locker room & round and out the Starboard side, across the decks to the bowser dropping into No 2 hold for a brief look. Along the Port companionway and round the back of the Captain’s bathroom, dropping into the lower deck & out the bomb damage past Snake-lock Anemones & Clown Fish & on to the shot for a couple of minutes deco Viz 10m Buddy Craig/Claire Air In 200 @ 32% Out 150” In truth, although this is, for me, a long descriptive in log-book terms, it still doesn’t give anything like the true flavour of what was a magnificent dive

With my diving being wholly recreational since closing Deep Blue Diving in 2006, my log book entries were thinning out to holiday opportunities and the odd dive trip once a year, the in-between diving was usually Stoney Cove to keep the motor skills functional. It would not be until 2013 that I would get another night dive in, but once again it would be something of an epic wreck and yet another Red Sea location. The story of the Salem Express is one of unimaginable tragedy, which shipwreck tale where lives are lost is not?, but what was an attempted act of kindness on the part of the First Officer, in trying to lessen the suffering of pilgrims out on deck in very poor conditions, became a scene of horror when the Salem Express hit a lone uncharted coral head, bursting the bow door and sinking the ship in under 20 minutes. The Salem Express went down at night, close to midnight in fact, headed for Safaga harbour during a storm, her decks awash with pilgrims returning from the Haj to Mecca after a mechanical fault had kept her two days longer in Jeddah than intended. Figures for the number of pilgrims aboard vary, the local version of “official” is round 658 including the crew, but, as is ever the case in poorly regulated countries the final “guesstimate” is around 850 as, frequently, unregistered passengers find their way aboard in more surreptitious manners. I have always taken the position that whatever the tragedy, diving shipwrecks, even those with loss of life, keeps the memory of those who have passed very much alive, in a truly immediate, visceral manner and, moreover, in a situational and historical context. If I am lost at sea in similar circumstances I would want divers to seek out my resting place, and would welcome my place in history being a place of pilgrimage of sorts. Not everyone will agree with me and I respect their perspective too, but their right to that perspective, not their right to prevent access to such wrecks. I understand some of the families of those lost will not want divers disturbing their loved ones place of rest, I treat all such wrecks with respect and reverence whilst diving them. I do not disturb anything in a wreck, in the same way I would not disturb anything in a cemetery, or garden of remembrance, but I do walk amongst those who have passed and would not fear others doing the same to me, how else does one pay respect to the dead and feel their continued presence amongst us?

My dive log records the dive on her as: “Red Sea – Salem Express – Safaga Moored mid-ships this meant we dropped down the shot & into the Port side of the wreck & went down the companionway to the bows – across the forecastle deck & to the bow door & the damage from ramming the reef dropping past the bent bow we then swam the Starboard companionway bow to stern and exited at the garage to view the props and then penetrate through the garage & up to the Port side exit. Terribly poignant and eerie until we exited and swam a little off from the wreck paralleling the decks to mid ships then into the Port companionway – down into the galley & restaurant area and on out to the stern exit – back to mid ships shot line to decompress & out Air In 180 Out 60 Buddy Craig” I mention the feeling of poignancy and the overwhelming eeriness of the dive, although I have dived Salem Express several times before and since, there is always the feeling I am entering a church of sorts, a space that invokes reverence, and although I feel that in many, if not most wrecks I dive, the Salem Express, especially at night, leaves you feeling very human, very mortal, and with the sense you are surrounded by those history has taken, who watch as you pass almost as if waiting to greet you……..soon my friends…..….but not today

  Two years later and I am back on Thistlegorm at Night, 29^th July of 2013 and the dive log reads quite short: “Thistlegorm – night Dive – This was on the bows & round the main deck along with No 1 and 2 holds then through Bridge accommodation, round the bridge deck & then on to cover the bikes & the trucks & out at the bow a real treat Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig” I love the bow area on Thistlegorm, it usually attracts less attention from other divers as they are somewhat obsessed with the cargo holds. I too love the cargo holds and have spent many dives looking at the trucks, the aeroplane wings, the endless Enfield rifles and the dozens of BSA motorcycles, all fascinate and all attract the main of a dive party, so it is a wonderful opportunity to spend time in the forward chain lockers and paint stores under the bow deck, which can be swam through and around usually in complete isolation, rather than being descended on and surrounded by other divers…..it isn’t the first time I find myself seeking out the less trod path….I’m just not a social animal

So now to the best of all the night dives I have had the privilege of, and it will be of little surprise to find it is a Red Sea dive, the Rosalie Moller, another victim of the Heinkel HE111 raid on Thistlegorm, but a day later when the bombers of 11 Staffeln, Kampfgeschwader 26, having spotted the Rosalie Moller whilst returning from sinking the Thistlegorm, came back for, and sent the Rosalie Moller to the bottom….. The Rosalie Moller is a deeper dive than Thistlegorm sitting on the bottom at 50m, with her decks at around 40m, so she is more of a challenge than Thistlegorm, and there is nothing like the cargo of Rosalie’s “sistership”, she was carrying a cargo of nothing more interesting than coal….so why is she the jewel of Red Sea wrecks?

  I will deal with that in another piece, you know if you have been on this blog before where that will be, here is the log book record: “30/07/13 Night Dive – Rosalie Moller – Red Sea! This is the first time that I know that anyone has done a night dive on Rosie!!  What a Privilege it is! Down a shot to the No 4 hold at the stern then round the stern deck house along the Starboard rail the full length of the ship with all the deck rails festooned with Brittlestar anemones & fan corals all out and blazing with colour the whole way. Past the holds to the bridge deck accommodation & the lifeboat davits, past the winches & on to the bow over the fallen mast area & bomb damage to the bow deck house (chain locker) & over those to the bow itself then back to the main for’ard mast where the shot was for ascent. Great view of the bow as we ascended to deco & a whole sky of stars as we surfaced MAGICAL DIVE Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig”

Rosalie has something more than Thistlegorm, she was never supposed to be the star, always the understudy, but her presence on this stage steals the show, sat, upright as if she could continue her journey tomorrow, complete, her funnel upright and her masts in place when I first dived her, Rosalie was off the map of most live-aboards, being too deep for the average diver and being in an area that often has a fierce current running too….Rosalie was considered “too high a risk” for mainstream charters, until technical diving started to feature more on the radar and attracted those wanting something a little more off-piste than Thistlegorm……don’t get me wrong, Thistlegorm is a wonderful and iconic dive…..but Rosalie is her quieter sister….the one that can’t help but draw your eye

  For once in this dive blog we are nearly up to date, my very last night dive….I really must do more….is logged in August of 2015 six whole years ago somehow! It is recorded thus: “Night Dive on Thistlegorm, down the shot to the mid-section Starboard Side at the bridge deck. We did the Starboard gangway past the engine and onto the bow. Came round in a running current to the Port side & on to the locker room Paint store/Rope room. Swam through that and out into the forward hold to see the trucks, aircraft wings & engine cowlings below the bowser down a deck to see the motorbikes & the carbine cases along with more of the trucks& a swim round the inner hold decks on the open to water side rather than in the loading bays. Came up & swam the bridge area & round the galley & into the bridge wings. Back over to the shot. Air In 220 Out 100 Buddy Craig” So here, somewhat fitting that it should be on the Thistlegorm, we end the saga of Night diving…. for the moment at least!

Exercise Southern Craftsman Phase III

      This is by far my favourite shot of Port Stanley, I have no idea who took it but it is wonderfully composed and taken from a great vantage point one I’ve stood at in daylight and evening, but one that was never lit in this way when I was there. Port Stanley, capital of the Falkland Isles represents the commercial hub of the archipelago and I hope it never changes, it’s a small capital and still charming, I truly hope the population recognise that and resist any attempt to modernise it, simply enjoying what they have and its timeless and slightly quaint appeal. Our journey from Port Stanley to Weddell Island had begun on 05^th January 1996, we would eventually leave the Falkland Islands on the 05^th of February ’96 a brief month in one of the most isolated and dramatic Island groups on Earth, but before we set foot back on land at Port Stanley we had a debt to pay, to the MV St Brandan, our stalwart sea taxi over the last few weeks and somewhere we had been made to feel very welcome by Captain and crew alike. It seems Don had bartered some of our passage in order to reduce costs for the expedition, the Captain had a day or so of work for us reducing the kelp growth at the St Brandan’s re-fueling station, a cleared area where she would run in close to shore and fuel up from Diesel pipes run out to sea, not somewhere you wanted to foul a prop……. First off, we would get a leisure dive in the cove before we moved in to the fuelling point to carry out the clearance

  Now there was only one issue Don hadn’t quite figured out…..the entry and exit for kitted up divers, but he had an idea, one which I featured in…….. as yet, unknowingly! So the dive briefing went smoothly, we were clear on what the mission was, and the potential hazards, the use of one of the inflatables as safety cover and diver recovery, the divers would, of course, wait to enter the water until the safety boat had been deployed and was positioned, should anything unfortunate happen on the entry from St Brandan so “….Jonah, you’re in first, Port side of the bow from the Bow Ramp, and you’ll wait for Martin to follow and pair up”   I almost missed the designated entry……almost! I re-ran the words again….no I don’t think I misheard… “…. Port side of the bow from the Bow Ramp…” and again….”…from the Bow Ramp…” No, I was positive I’d heard right and it was Deja-vu…..Don had pulled this stunt before in Jamaica, with Sharks, I was a bloody guinea pig again, the inflatable was there to pick up my broken body after I shatter every bone on impact, it’s a 20 foot plus drop from the bloody bow ramp ffs! Well, no point arguing, if it was going to go Pete Tong they’d have to work hard to get me back in the little RIB…that’d teach ‘em! Don piped up again, “OK then, 20 minutes to the off, oh by the way, the dive-site is “Death Cove” for log-book purposes”………You have to be shitting me…. “Death Cove”….Fcuking Priceless!

  I wouldn’t be writing this if things didn’t go well on that day, I remember feeling apprehensive, I also remember feeling exhilarated, this was the kind of stuff I signed up for, I was about to drop well over 20 feet in full dive kit, into the frigid South Atlantic Ocean……….this was what it was really all about! I knew the drill, Step out, look to your front, Right hand holds your reg & mask in place, Left arm across the body holding your contents gauges in tight to your front, to prevent them smacking you in the face and possibly dislodging your reg…..(not ideal, bearing in mind you were going in “deep”, your kit couldn’t be over-inflated or it would likely break free on hitting the surface)…..cross your fins and point them down so you don’t end up losing one piling in “flat-footed”……… And GO! ……… Don’s words rang in my ears and I stepped out and dropped like a stone, for what seemed like an eternity, and then whoosh, I hit the water, and instantly went under a good few meters…… and breathe, no problems, mental check on kit, all seems present and correct, slowing now, clouds of bubbles meant I could see “zip” but I could feel I was starting to become positively buoyant and rise in the water column….and there it was….I popped, unusually high, out at the surface and then settled back to bob, quite safe and comfortable, everything where it should be, and turned back to the St Brandan and gave the OK signal, and waited for Martin to follow, now this would be fun to watch………    

  It didn’t take Martin too long to get oriented following his entry and we both made our way to the stern of St Brandan and descended. My first dive off the St Brandan was on the 29^th of January ’96 and was logged and described as:  “High Entry – Off St Brandan’s Bow Ramp – Death Cove – S.A. great drop in then a keel inspection & look at the prop then a look round the sea-bed – no interest there so back up for a look at the prop again. W/Temp 10’ viz 3m Air In 225 Out 175 Buddy Martin” I loved the dive, even though there wasn’t a great deal to see on the sea-bed the exhilaration of the high entry, followed by the trip up and around the hull and prop of the St Brandan was enough!  The next day would be our pay-back to the stoic work horse that was the St Brandan, and would comprise of cutting free the hold-fasts of giant kelp, it is an unremarkable experience except for the sense of accomplishment once the task has been completed, my log book reads: “RIB Dive – Long Creek – S.A. working dive clearing Kelp for shore access to fuel lines by St Brandan’s crew. W/Temp 10’ viz down to 1/2m Air In 225 Out 125 Buddy Don & James”.  I recall our first dive was slightly deeper, at the fringes of the Kelp forest, working our way in to shore, repetitious cutting and moving forward, cutting and moving forward….it seemed we were getting nowhere…and we had been at it for 33 minutes. Our second dive of the day, after a light lunch was more of the same, but we were getting a little shallower, Don had remarked at our meal, “….it is interesting to see the difference of technique each of you adopt…..yours is methodical, cut, Left to Right, then return Right to Left….move forward and repeat…….some slash wildly about, then look around and move and do the same, others move forward cutting what is directly in front ignoring peripheral’s….fascinating stuff” Essentially we were operating a “Slash & Burn” programme, it was beginning to show progress! I logged the dive as: “RIB Dive – Long Creek – S.A. working dive to complete access route through Kelp. Hard work but successful. W/Temp 10’ viz down to 1/2m Air In 225 Out 80 Buddy Don & James” This dive had been shallower and had taken longer, I had been in the water for 79 minutes and on exit was cold and tired, but it had been a good days work and the Captain & Crew were delighted with our efforts. We’d spent two days travelling now and completed our task for the St Brandan, it was time to get back to Port Stanley but there was time for one more dive on our way back….Ajax Bay, San Carlos water, now before I got my hopes up Don was keen to manage expectations, despite asking the Ministry of Defence if we could take a ceremonial dive on one of the Falkland island War wrecks of 1982, and despite Don having been a veteran of that conflict and our Corps affiliations with those lost on the wrecks during the conflict, the MoD position was a firm “no”, unequivocal, final and that was it………we would not break that order

   I have hated the MoD for that decision from that point onwards, skulking bureaucrats, happy to condemn service personnel to political turf wars from a safe distance, happy to send others to do their dirty work…….unhappy to see that sacrifice honoured by comrades…..the pen-pushers were, in my opinion, and still are, beneath contempt. We all felt it appropriate to hold a ceremony for those lost on HMS Ardent and HMS Antelope, there were undoubtedly brothers in arms amongst the 42 brave souls lost on both valiant ships

  So to say the mood was brooding was to understate the situation, we felt cheated, this was an official expedition, one that could only be described as very rare, a joint service expedition to dive the Falkland Islands, what better opportunity to honour those who lost their lives serving their country in such a bleak location……… So it was with a sense of despair that we kitted up to take a dive in San Carlos water, somewhere close to 42 brave souls we identified with and some had even shared service with. My log book records with a sense of military irony expressed in the quote from Blackadder: “High Entry – Brandan – Ajax Bay – San Carlos Water – “GOD DARLING, IT’S A BARREN FEATURELESS DESERT OUT THERE!” Only interest was a pod of Commerson’s Dolphins @ 3m Viz 4m Temp 9’ In 220 Out 150”. The dive itself was, as can be seen from the descriptive in the log entry “unremarkable” not surprising in the circumstances, I remember descending to a sea-bed of silt, just a mud bottom, unusual for the dives we had done so far in the Falklands, but likely to be normal in certain of the bays I’m sure. The dive bottomed out at 25m and so we spent little time exploring, just a “compass point” leg out and, seeing no benefit from continuing, an about turn to retrace our finning and ascend to look around the St Brandan’s prop and hull

  We shipped out that afternoon, 31^st January of 1996, sailing back to Port Stanley to spend the last few days of the expedition with the local BSAC club, Don had arranged to do some BSAC training for them and I had been assigned, along with Percy if I recall correctly, Diver Coxswain skills, taking out a couple of their divers and going through the Sports and Dive-Leader boat handling skills. I enjoyed it, we spent the time trolling up and around Port Stanley’s quay and the sound, demonstrating maneuvering, slow and fast variations of handling, getting on the plane and “trimming” the Rib, coming alongside, picking up casualties in “man – overboard” situations, all the stuff I’d been taught at Poole Divers and some stuff picked up over the last couple of years, even locally over the last few weeks. The guys seemed to enjoy it and they were signed up accordingly, having done what was asked of them with skill and efficiency, so we had contributed something to the local diving community if nothing else! There was a little time left to look around Stanley, at the places so recently in the world spotlight for all the wrong reasons, Stanley Church and the Globe Pub, the famous whalebone double arch and the post office, where I picked up some interesting 1^st day covers, I’d collected stamps as a kid, many did, it was perhaps a throwback to buy such small but important souvenirs of a journey so far from our normal diving experiences. We did one last dive from Port Stanley, on the sailing ship SS Kelly out on a local spot called, unsurprisingly, Kelly’s Rock, my little Red book (Wreck log) says: “03.02.96 Port Stanley – South Atlantic – Ran aground 1892 Steamship SS Kelly, on Kelly’s Rock outside Port Stanley S.A. wedged between two out-crops of rock, heavily kelped at the surface which, when underwater gives the effect of a forest round the remains. Really atmospheric lighting! Viz about 8m. The hull is timber, Copper plated at the waterline and below, near enough all of the length is there but most of the bulk of the hull is gone, plenty of marine life & a couple of large fish, loads of nooks & crannies & holes – great dive”.  SS Kelly will undoubtedly appear in another section of this blog at some point, hopefully with a little better detail too!

  And so that was it….. officially….. all that remained was to pack the remaining kit away into the ISO container, most of which had already been taken care of before we left New Island. The container was made ready to ship and we awaited our call forward to the Tri-Star flight out of Mount Pleasant to Ascension Island and on to Brize Norton and what would be a journey back…..to the future

Exercise Southern Craftsman Phase II

It is the 17^th of January 1996 and we have packed up the operation on Weddell Island, everything has been loaded on the MV St Brandan and we bid Weddell a fond farewell, not knowing if we will ever return, taking with us memories of dives that will live vivid for the rest of our lives. Now we are bound for New Island and the weather is building in typical Southern Atlantic style, the wind lashing waves up around us and the flat bottom of St Brandan rising and falling, heading into the teeth of a gale like none of us have seen before. I know this because it woke me up….and that is a kind of miracle to be honest. Before I joined up, when I was still living with my parents and my two brothers, my younger brother Mike once asked me with a straight face…..”Col, if a nuclear war does break out….do you want me to wake you?” The packing of the St Brandan had gone well, all our kit was stowed back in the ISO container and the two stalwart little inflatables were securely lashed to the deck, a good job really in the circumstances, we had done well, it was late in the day when we finished and the captain had kindly assigned us bunks and suggested we get our heads down….no arguments from me, sleep, eat and drink when you can….a mantra well respected in the mob!

    I had a bunk in a room to myself and quickly drifted off, it seemed little more than ten minutes (but was several hours) later and I was violently awakened as I was spat upwards banging my head on the bunk above me….what the living fcuk…. The St Brandan was dropping from under me and somehow I jammed my arm above my head holding me down against my bunk and the empty bunk above me…..then there was the weight of gravity as the hull rose under me and lifted me up to stare at the bunk above….fcuk this we’re sinking…. we must be….shit get out of bed FFS! Easier said than done as the St Brandan had a roll sideways too, not as violent as the roller-coaster up and down….. but a second level of complication when trying to get out of a bunk….I managed to get out of the bunk and onto the cabin floor, determined to find my way out before the boat turned turtle on me and it was all over, I half crawled, half dragged myself up to deck level and then into the bridge where the captain was sat staring to front with a grin from ear to ear……. “Bit choppy eh!”……. Jesus Christ….a bit choppy…..a fcuking bit choppy……

  After what was the worst 3 hours on any boat of my life, we hoved into the strait at Peat Island, which leads to the settlement on New Island where Don Shirley had organised a week or two for us with the resident owner Ian Strange. Now Ian is a local legend, a wild life artist and minor celebrity, Ian having been the driving force behind the declaration of most of the island as a nature conservation area. Ian had pioneered a Mink farming venture on the islands way back in the ‘60’s and, when that had been wrapped up for not being as profitable as the sponsors (The Hudson’s Bay Company, of Canadian origins) would have liked, Ian had taken up the protection of wildlife in the area, writing several books on the local flora and fauna and becoming a crown appointed artist for the post office out there. Ian passed away in September of 2018, his vivid paintings are still sought after by wildlife enthusiasts and art collectors alike

   Ian allowed us to set up camp just down the field from his house which was perched on the bluff overlooking Coffin Bay, named for the Coffin family of Nantucket rather than anything macabre….and opposite Coffin Island, named of the same origin, the Coffin family being prominent in the shipping business and presumably something to do with Whaling, that odious period of global cruelty writ large in the Falkland Island’s history! This wasn’t the only connection with America, there is a little more on this site that refers (in the piece on the Falklands) surrounding the wreck of the Isabella and foul deeds, marooning, the museum now on New Island, and eventual salvation. The Resurrection of the Island’s history through the new museum can be traced back to the two Americans in the picture, who, on several stays on New Island, rescued the dilapidated hut that had been constructed to shelter Barnard, and those from the American Sealer Nanina, marooned by the British during the war of independence in 1812. Barnard’s hut eventually became the museum in what can truly be described as a self-fulfilling prophesy in my mind…..

  So we set to, tenting up, getting our kit ashore and making a start on the routines needed to ensure we could function over the next couple of weeks. This was a little more “real” than our Weddell Island set-up, we had two man tents for our personal living space, and a central admin and cooking tent, joined up to a stores shed for kit and cataloging the collections for the British Museum along with tables for eating and logging dives etc…….nothing spectacular, but we were used to slumming it and our set-up was cosy enough, and allowed us to socialise or find some personal space as the mood struck

  It had taken just 4 days from our last dive off Weddell Island on January 15^th, to get packed, transported, ferry our kit, set-up camp, establish a routine and plan the next dive….January 19^th 1996 we were back in the ribs and off for our first dive from New Island, my log book marks the event:  “Rib Dive – New Island – Coffin Isle S.A. New site, trying on Aquion Membrane Dry-Suit – Great Suit, Lousy deflate valve – Dive was ruined by that and tangles with Chris’s delayed SMB. Shame – Great Site – 20m Kelp and loads of life! W.Temp 9’ Air In 225 Out 150 Viz 15m Buddy Chris”……  An inauspicious start to diving from New Island, I hoped things improved and quickly! Now I was trying the Aquion, (a spare brought by one of the other divers and generously loaned to me), whilst the glue I had used on the over-boots of my own suit dried. It was a vain attempt as trying to dry neoprene on an island in the South Atlantic was ambitious to say the least. It was also it turned out, rather unnecessary, as the rubber boots had effectively just been glued over fully neoprene covered and waterproofed inner bootees, such was the quality of my DMS Bravo dry-suit. Aquion would, in later versions of their under-suits, include an area of mesh between cuff and forearm, the problem I had was due to the under-suit vacuuming up under the base of the sleeve mounted vent valve, preventing it venting sufficiently quickly, even when raised above the head……not a problem you wanted on ascent, especially with decompression stops to take…..still, lesson learned and no harm done!

  It would be three more days before we got in the water again, the weather closing in around us again leaving us to entertain ourselves in other ways, and to explore the island a little, in the breaks between howling winds and lashing rain. It was times like these when it would be easy to become demoralised, after all we were here to dive, our first dive had shown us the visibility was excellent, and the look of the island, with its high cliffs to one side and two shipwrecks on the lower shores close to us, gave rise to high hopes for the diving here. Chris saved the day, Chris was an army warrant officer in the catering corps and here to ensure we didn’t starve to death or spend the entire budget on beer. Chris could do amazing things with meager rations, he excelled at his craft and everyone looked forward to scoff time, not least me! Chris would often make fresh bread and sometimes scones, there was always some little treat, and Chris can be solely credited with keeping our morale very much better than it would have been in the circumstances!

  The three or so days we had the chance to look around were interesting enough, we walked out to the narrowest part of the island, easy enough to walk to but too far to lug dive kit effectively, the limitations of shore diving, and the lack of safety cover would have been a problem even if we had considered the walk with kit “do-able”….No, we would stick to the inflatables and the trip around the headland, after all, it was a dramatic landscape, it was an even more dramatic seascape! I had made a point of wandering off on my own to explore a bit, the lads weren’t that adventurous and most contented themselves with the camp environs….. I wanted to spend time up close and personal with the Protector III in the bay, I wanted to look through Barnard’s hut, that would lead to learning a little more about our American Conservators, their love of the Falklands and their personal mission to restore Barnard’s hut to some sort of order. They were doing a great job, it was neat and tidy, there was a sense it could have been made reasonably comfortable by the marooned occupiers, until their rescue by Mariners from the British whalers “Asp” and “Indispensable” in November of 1814

   I enjoyed talking with the Americans, Carla and John, and it pains me that I cannot recall their surnames whilst writing this, for which I humbly apologise if they are ever unfortunate enough to stumble across it. I spent my time taking Black and White (and colour) photos of the Protector III and then forged on to the Penguin colony over the rise. When I arrived I couldn’t believe how fearless the little birds were, they allowed me right up close and personal, not offended by my presence at all, it was marvellous to be so close to such fascinating birds, it also smelt pretty bad and the noise, Jesus…… the squabbling and calling, the to-ing and fro-ing as they came hopping back to their rightful places and fed chicks or sat on eggs….it was an amazing thing to be a part of even for such a brief sweep of the hands of time……  

  The 23^rd of January, and it was a good enough forecast to get back in the water, this time we would take the little inflatables around the headland and sit under the cliffs, we’d all been dying to see what was there, the cliffs towered above the sea and the formations were truly spectacular. I couldn’t wait to get in the water and the trip couldn’t have been more impressive, we launched from the little quay below Ian’s house and headed out of the little inlet into beautiful blue sky and calm seas, every minute of the RIB ride was superb, the cliffs truly impressive, the sculpted rock towering above us often plateaued at the base, where hundreds of Sea-lions sunned themselves, or splashed into the water at our approach, keen to defend territories, or just curious as to what the hell just spoiled their peace and quiet? I had never dived in waters like this, teeming with life, unspoilt by mankind and near pristine as you can get in a world that is hell-bent on self-destruction wherever “civilization” manifests

   23^rd January 1996 “RIB Dive – Coffin. I.  E. Side S.A. Down to 20m to collect some samples of life, winding back to a cave in the cliff face and along it till buoyancy problems @ 3m. The life was varied & general, Interesting Air In 200 Out 125 W/Temp 9’ Buddy Percy. Viz 10-12m”  That bloody valve again….I learned a trick on this dive, if I squeezed the cuff dump mount hard enough, I could break the Vacuum beneath it and get it to work a little better! I would be back in my DMS in no time, the glue hadn’t been successful on the boots but I had figured out the inner neoprene was still completely sealed, and when using the suit it wouldn’t matter about a loose boot top. The next day would see one of the best dives I have ever had, it still lives vividly in my mind and as such will be written up more thoroughly in another section of this blog at a later date, here’s what my log book records: “Rib Dive – Land’s End Bluff – S.A The Cathedral, very marginal sea conditions – heavy swell but a great dive in along sheer walls covered in Krill, millions of the things like a Red carpet everywhere – in through a Blue Green split in the rocks & into a huge open roofed shaft 180’ – 200’ straight up on all sides. Down to the floor at 11m & in and under the giant slab, remains of the roof, then out through 4m swell along the passage. Spent time with Penguins & Seals & Dolphins (Peal’s 3m long) on the return boat ride, a magnificent summer day – viz 10m Air In 200 Out 150 Buddy Percy” Now I don’t generally “wax lyrical” in my dive-log, but that’s one of the longest descriptions to date, it goes to show how much I loved that dive, but check out the “Best Dives” section over the next few weeks and I’ll expand a bit…..

     Our next dive on the 24^th January couldn’t have been more different, we went back to collecting samples for the British Antarctic Survey Group, this time in the Kelp Forests so prevalent around these islands. I logged the dive with this narrative: “Rib Dive – Coffin Island – S.A. Collection of seaweed samples for Antarctic Survey Group from 20m mark –then a nature bimble, beautiful Gastropods – one 12” (foot) size two really pretty Nudibranchs White and Yellow & translucent – thousands of Starfish & Hermit Crabs & wind through Kelp Forest – Magic Viz 8m Air In 225 Out 175 W/Temp 9’ Buddy Percy” I loved the Kelp Forests, the interplay of light, the stumbling across “glades” and the abundance of life throughout made each dive different and adventurous in equal measure. The next day we were on to a different area, once supporting a whaling station, now bereft of anything we could see that might be associated, other than an obvious beaching area….The dive was a video run that we were making, not Percy and I but others on the dive, so we had a bimble about looking for something of interest: “Rib Dive – The Whaling Station – S.A just a bimble while a video was being made – had a job finding anything of interest – a couple of Starfish & Crab & a fair sized Brachiopod & a pretty Nudibranch. Viz 5-6m Air In 200 Out 175 W/Temp 11’ Buddy Percy”  There were few days remaining on New Island and we had amassed quite a catalogue of specimens for the Antarctic Survey Group. After our collection dives Don would have us in the admin tent and we would bag, or bottle the finds and label date, time, dive number and depth, all the information, including the water temperature at point of collection, was important to what was collected, it was a macabre task, one I didn’t enjoy, I far preferred to log the Kelp specimens, long, awkward and often a job to pack, at least I wasn’t watching some poor creature gasp its last in Formaldehyde or whatever alcohol solution it was we had brought with us…….

   Our next dive on the 26^th of January was off Beaver Island and my dive log records: “Rib Dive – Beaver Island – S.A. Drop into Kelp Fringe & a hunt round the 25m mark. Plenty of life, much of it small, but one huge Gastropod with a 7” shell & 18” “foot” (Gastropod literally means “Stomach foot” a creature that is a sliding intestine for want of a better description), plenty of Brittle-star & Starfish some small Snails & or Nudibranch – all wonderfully coloured. The Kelp another submerged forest – great but really cold (long trip out) W.Temp 9’ Air In 190 Out 100 Viz 10m Buddy Don” This was perhaps one of our longest trips out of New Island and showcases our growing confidence in the area, it was a hell of a trip on the little inflatables and was at the limit of our ability to carry enough fuel for the trip. I remember the feeling of chill on the ride out and again on the return, several times in each direction, down my spine, a euphoria you often get when really cold but rammed tight together on long cold trips in the back of Bedford 4 tonners on long road trips in winter

  There was another day of rest before our final dive out of New Island, another opportunity to photograph, to write home, to record dives for those who weren’t too meticulous recording their adventures underwater as perhaps I had become…I tried to record the dives each day, once all the kit was cleaned, stowed and the fills completed (we did this as “volunteers” and by a common sense “it’s your fcuking turn ffs” approach) but even I would need a catch-up every now and again, there was a lot to do to keep the show going! I still found time to photograph and to get the odd hike in, even with the “KP” duties, helping Chris out by peeling spuds, or washing up, it was necessary we all did our bit, before we put ourselves and our ambitions into the frame….

  And so we bring Phase 2 of Exercise Southern Craftsman to a close, our final dive from New Island was to Ship Island on the 28^th January of 1996. My log book records: “Rib Dive – Ship Island – New. I. S.A. Down to 25m & around till we got bored – predominantly Crayfish and thin weed two 36 legged Starfish – pretty large but the rest of the area was peat coloured sand pretty boring – viz 8m W/Temp 8’ Air In 225 Out 150 Buddy Mick” an inauspicious end to our diving from New Island, Don had been asked by Ian Strange, to dive the bay we ended up in to evaluate the effects of sheep farming and the denudation of local grass-land associated with it, it seems Ian’s neighbor was sheep farming that area and that wasn’t really to Ian’s liking, I don’t think there was much love lost between the two of them, local legend spoke of Ian shooting his neighbor’s dog for worrying wildlife on Ian’s land…..unconfirmed of course, as most local legend around the Falkland Islands often is! And so, with a heavy heart, as the diving had at times been what could only be described as “spectacular” we broke camp, started to load the little inflatables and schlepped out to the St Brandan for Phase 3……..

Southern Craftsman Phase 1

Exercise Southern Craftsman was underway, the MV St Brandan had done her job well, we were off the shores of Weddell Island and could use St Brandan’s crane to off-load inflatables and all the kit we needed for Phase 1 of our expedition diving the Falkland Islands. The crane cut our work in half, we were ashore despite having to make multiple journeys in what seemed like no time at all, the secondary benefit, the outboards of the two little inflatable craft got tested and warmed up and our boat handling was settled in a little to the local conditions. It was a quarter mile journey from boat to shore, although I wasn’t really sure why the skipper didn’t run up against the little quay at Weddell settlement where we would be staying….The St Brandan was flat bottomed and the quay was designed for mid-range ships that re-provisioned the island fairly regularly, but whatever, I enjoyed the work, loading and stowing kit and balancing the little craft that would be our work-horses for the next 3 weeks or so in and around the South Atlantic Ocean, and the inlets and bays of Weddell and New Islands and, eventually Port Stanley

The settlement at Weddell Harbour is sparse to say the least, a combination of a couple of barns, then used to shelter the Island’s owner’s large and impressive RIB, the main residence, and an impressive wood and brick farm-style house and the bunk-house, which would serve as our Island base for the Two weeks we were diving around the island. I spent some time looking at the history of Weddell Island, in the 1800’s the buildings were wool processing factory’s, the main revenue of the settlement, (when it could warrant being called that) being wool and sheepskin, along with the subsistence farming necessitated by such a remote location with such storm lashed shores

Astonishingly the changes seem minimal from 1889 to 1996, despite over a century having elapsed between the views! If nothing else, it shows a couple of things about the islands, they built well, for wooden sheds to survive the weather in the region in such good shape, for a century and beyond, is quite a feat. It also shows that the islanders re-purpose without much waste, whatever is there is re-used not just discarded or pulled down, although the actual sheep sheds themselves (on the Right of the sepia print) have now long gone

  We spent our first day transporting our kit ship-to-shore and then up to the bunk-house. There was a lot to unload and most of the morning went just ferrying, the shore party then land-rovered the personal kit up to the bunk house, and settled the jerry-cans of petrol into the shed, along with cylinders and compressors and the remaining diving kit. The cylinders would all need filling as they had been, out of necessity and to meet transport regulations, emptied before we shipped them. The shore party set-about with a will, we couldn’t wait to get diving! My last dive had been a first, I’d been in the re-compression chamber at Fort Bovisands, for an insight into hyperbaric medicine, on the 11^th December of 1995 following the completion of my BSAC Advanced Diver course, now would be another first, my first dive in the South Atlantic! My dive-log recalls: 05^th January 1996, “Shore Dive – Gull Harbour – Weddell Island South Atlantic (Falklands) Shakeout dive through the kelp – longest I’ve ever seen – loads of squat lobster & then into an old wooden wreck (a Brig size) plenty of timber left to root round. Over to Port I think. W/Temp 10’ Viz 4-5m Air In 200 Out 150 Buddy Chris”  You couldn’t make this up, our first dive on Weddell Island and we had stumbled across an old wreck, it turned out to be the Castalia, a former yacht once belonging to an Earl….. But that is for another story and as any who read this know, will be found in another place on here!

 

  The next morning we were back into the water for some skills refreshers, another shore-dive in the shallows, the bottom in the area was a mixture of sand and rock, with Kelp in isolated areas acting as islands of life, it was in the Kelp you found all the life there was to see, it stretched to the surface as an oasis, forest like, offering hiding places for all kinds of marine life from juvenile fish and mollusks, to starfish, anemones, crab and larger individual fish and then, when you were lucky, the larger mammals like seals, huge eyed and playful, when their innate curiosity overcame their shyness and surprise at bubble blowing, noisy and clumsy things from another world, gate-crashing their serenity…….

The next couple of dives were local and uneventful, I recorded them without much enthusiasm and I remember them being little to write home about, the log book says it all: “Shore Dive – Gull Harbour – W.I S.A Skills refresher followed by a bimble about – plenty of Crayfish but very little else – boring – Air In 200 Out 125 W/Temp 9’ Viz 3-4m Buddy Chris” that one followed later in the morning of the 6^th January ’96 with: “Rib Dive – Gull Point – Weddell – S.A Contour search for the “Weddell” turned into a bimble  Some isolated Kelp “trees” & Unusual Starfish. A Dolphin & 2 Penguins on the surface but weren’t interested below W/Temp 9’ Air In 200 Out 110 Viz 3m Buddy Chris” On these occasions the wildlife at the surface outweighed that under the water, it was quite something to be accompanied out in the inflatables by the odd Commerson’s or Peale’s Dolphin and to see Penguins was surreal, not something you see on South Coast dives back in the UK! And we were starting to get the inflatables out and spread our wings a little, moving steadily and more confidently around the island, I wanted a lot more of this, I didn’t come here for shore diving!

  The next dive was that afternoon on the Castalia, another look at her and how she sat in the water, on this occasion we found her transom and there were still brass letters showing on the wood sat there since she had been blown ashore in a storm in 1893. Don used the opportunity to do some survey work on her remains and we ran a centre line for a video run down her keel as a guide for the video team. Castalia had an interesting back story and not a little intrigue too, I enjoyed the dives we did on her even though she was  close in and hard up to the shoreline, she was an atmospheric dive and that was made even more so in the fading twilight of dusk that evening

  08^th January saw us taking the inflatables out to Harbour Island, a short trip down the sound from Weddell Settlement to Harbour Island, about ½ a mile down the channel leading from Weddell harbour, gradually extending the distance as we gained confidence in the outboards and the performance of the inflatables. This wasn’t the place to take undue risks, there was no one out this far to come and help, essentially we were on our own. Don had deliberately made the choice of two inflatables to limit the chance of a single failure becoming catastrophic, we took every dive seriously, there was an O2 kit on each boat and all of us were trained O2 administrators with BSAC lifesaver awards, apart from Two Sports divers One on each boat, the maximum Don would permit gaining “adventurous” dive experience on this trip

The next dives were decent, a bit more fun, and the log book records: “RIB Dive – Harbour Island – S.A. Scenic bimble round the gully’s – plenty of life – Anemones & Starfish & Squat Lobster & Small fish – Mellow W/Temp 9’ Air In 200 Out 110 Buddy Percy”   that was our morning dive, things were getting better the further out we got, it was encouraging, the next dive was at Circum Island and went like this: “RIB Dive – Circum Island – S.A. Scenic bimble again – new area – One lovely Nudibranch White and Clear, plenty of Queenies Mellow – W/Temp 12’ Air In 200 Out 130 Buddy Percy” I can’t account for the difference in temperature on this dive, 4 degrees over a dive at pretty much the same depth between Harbour and Circum Islands, it was odd but I generally looked at the gauge “whenever”, there was no “set” time so it shouldn’t be taken as definitive, perhaps I’d looked at my gauge shallower on the second dive?

  The next Two days on Weddell Island were blow-outs, we knew they would happen, this was an area where sailors spoke in reverend awe of the weather and conditions, Two days, just as we were beginning to spread our wings was a bit of a blow to morale though…. The 11^th saw us back in the water, the first team laid out rope lines so video could be taken for the Natural History Museum, and our dive was dedicated to retrieval, the log book says: “RIB Dive – Harbour Island – (S. End) S.A. Retrieving ropes used for lining out video path – all sent up on delayed SMB’s No Problems. Couple of Commerson’s dolphins played around the boat as we exited with a couple of Magellan’s Penguins. W/Temp 9’ Air In 200 Out 150 Buddy Mike” I found I enjoyed “working” dives quite a bit, the challenges of doing anything underwater made you focus and seemed to give the dives a greater meaning, not just a bimble, but a bimble with purpose if you like….. Our afternoon dive on the 11^th was at the opposite end of Harbour Island and was logged as: “RIB Dive – Harbour. I. (N. End) S.A. Exploring another site – Isolated rock outcrops & huge Kelp fronds millions of Crayfish (tiny) & then the delayed went up a 7’ Seal/Sea-lion came and inspected us at 6m, so we pushed another 5 mins watching it perform – what a wonderful creature!! W/Temp 9’ Air In 200 Out 140 Buddy Mike” My first experience of a seal underwater, not just off the RIB or hauled out on the rocks, I loved it, sleek and Grey under the water and literally a “ballerina-like” grace in every move, from that day to this I have always relished diving with these amazing creatures!

  12^th of January we were back out and off to another new site, this time Smylie Rock, there were plenty of local names for the various formations around each Island, named for their appearance, or events that happened local to them, naming protocols long lost for the most part, some of the stacks and features were named for their current appearance and some from way-back when, we gave up asking what the background was as the locals often really didn’t know, some of the names probably go back to the “Cape Horner” days…. The log for the 12^th Jan says: “RIB Dive – Smylie Rock – Weddell – S.A. Hunt around new site – plenty of micro-life two lovely blue-black banded Crayfish & some Brittle-stars (Orange” – Surfaced near Sea-Lion colony – Huge Male & couple of females. Commerson’s dolphins played surfing on inbound! W/Temp 9’ Air In 200 Out 140 Buddy James” and the afternoon dive was noted short & sweet: “RIB Dive – Harbour I (S.W. End) S.A. Photography with James on Camera In & out of Kelp forest – very atmospheric. Life again was macro – but pretty & lively W/Temp 9’ Air In 200 Out 150 Buddy James” Now I sell this dive short and remember it well at the time, the Kelp was magnificent, the dive truly did feel like we were in a tropical forest, but it is hard to describe the feelings, you are essentially winding your way through vast areas of the same thing, there isn’t a great way to describe the light playing through the kelp fronds scattering like some vast disco-ball across the sea-bed when you write up a dive-log. I remember emerging into what looked like small forest glades where kelp was a little more sparse in a patch, only to have to push through tight knit “trunks” to pass on and continue the dive. It was truly a surprise to see how deep this kelp went, our deepest dives were 30m by decree as we had no re-compression chamber on the islands, the nearest being in Buenos Aires…..and not a good idea to end up asking to use in the circumstances, but you could see the kelp descending well beyond our sight into the depths which meant they stretched at lease to the 40m mark!  

  By now I had seen a good deal of what was on offer and was enjoying the adventure of the whole experience, the marine life was special, the nudibranchs we were seeing were small for the most part, but the colours were beyond anything I’d seen before, brilliant Whites, translucent stripes, banded with electric Yellows, and Cobalt Blues, and Brittle-stars, some were quite huge and brilliant Red in colour, and all the sizes in between, the Falklands was indeed a haven for marine-life but our next dives were collections, bagging specimens for the Natural History Museum and I knew I wasn’t going to like it much. I hate condemning creatures of any sort to death, even in the name of science. The dive log records: 13^th Jan ’96 “RIB Dive – Harbour .I. Weddell S.A. Collection work for British Antarctic Survey Group. Taking samples on a bearing at 5m intervals & lift bagging to the cover boat. Visited by a Seal at 5m which brought a friend to 10m to play round us – a magnificent pair of creatures friendly and inquisitive W/Temp 9’ Air In 210 Out 140 Buddy’s Simon & Ross” That afternoon we had another treat in store: “RIB Dive- Harbour .I. Weddell S.A. Diving with Commerson’s Dolphins that had been playing with and round the boats! Close enough to touch – magical creatures!! W.Temp 9’ Air In 140 Out 100 Buddy’s Simon & Ross” I loved Dolphins, they often rode our bow waves on the way out or back from the dives and to get them in close whilst we were underwater was special, this was a fantastic dive for all the brevity used in the description and I wished for as many more like it as I could get!

We only had a couple more days on Weddell Island and by now we had seen what we were going to see I thought, the next day on the 14^th had been set aside for some skills tests for the Dive-Leader qualification for our Two Sport Divers. The dive was uneventful, which is exactly how it should be considering the skills we were practicing! I wrote it up briefly: “RIB Dive – Weddell Island – S.A. C.B.L Skills Dive for D.L. W/Temp 9’ Air In 220 Out 200 Ross/James” Controlled Buoyant Lift (C.B.L) a way of surfacing an unconscious or incapacitated diver using his own buoyancy control device, controlling his or her ascent to the surface, where further rescue can be undertaken. This we did from 15m and although valuable as practice, something no-one wanted to have to do for real! Given the skills we were performing we only did the one dive that day, it could have been the weather was not too encouraging as well, I do not remember clearly. The next day we were headed out to Mark Point at the top end of the channel, it was a good haul out there but it was worth it as the log records: “RIB Dive – Mark Point – W.I. S.A Diving in a kelp forest – a wonderful dive – like flying through a tropical rain forest. So much life – nudibranchs, Brittle-stars, Starfish & Pin Cushion Stars – Brachiopods everywhere we looked, thousands of Hermit Crabs (tiny) & all wonderful colours especially the Squat Lobsters! 10m Viz W/Temp 9’ Air In 180 Out 125 Buddy Ross” The dive was a good one and we decided to go back there in the afternoon which I logged as: “RIB Dive – Mark Point – W.I S.A Back to the Kelp Forest but further South. Just as wonderful but the Sun didn’t give such brilliant shafts of light as before – the mood was more eerie & dark but winding in – out up and over the Kelp was great the life was just as plentiful but we played with a large Octopus this time and saw more small fish & Two good sized ones – marvellous. W/Temp 9’ Air In 225 Out 175 Viz 5m Buddy Ross” It was clear, Weddell Island had saved its best marine-life dives till last, now what would New Island bring……..

 In the beginning……

I had kept in touch with Don Shirley since exercise Jamaican Experience (otherwise known as operation sun-tan) back in June of 1994, Don had spoken about another adventure in the planning and I’d asked to be kept in mind, Don was as good as his word and I got a nod somewhere around February of 1995 to keep an eye on Part 1 orders. I made it a mission and in May or so of that year there was a notice for Corps divers interested in diving remote, unsupported areas on a self-sufficient basis, in inclement climates….. I was intrigued, must be dry-suit trained! OK that’s me, contact WO1 D. Shirley on………… and here we go, the application went in in somewhere around an hour later! I had no idea where we were going, I didn’t care, I knew Don was an adventurer and I knew he loved diving as much as I did, wherever it was Don was going, I wanted “in”. The joining notice would follow on acceptance, but I called Don to check up on my chances, Don said my application arrived in the first 5 and if I was cleared at unit level (another trip to see Major Bloody Andrews then…) then I was on board….it was the Falklands, a million miles away from Jamaica in terms of diving, a bloody site more remote and the plan was Ice diving off South Georgia…..bloody brilliant! Don was still working on permissions with the MoD and the governments of both the UK (It was only 13 years after the Falkland Islands war with Argentina, and still a “sensitive” area for military personnel to get to, unless on an official posting to the base at Stanley) and the Falkland Islands. Don had served in the Falklands war, if anyone could get permission then surely it would be a serving vet such as Don?

   There was no objection to me going from Major Andrews, I think by then he had given up on me, I had already decided I was out of the Army at the 9 year point and this would pretty much get me out of his hair until I left….. I got joining instructions in good time, there were preparations too, weekends spent at the RAOC depot in Chillwell digging out climbing rope at, or beyond its rappelling or climbing date, great for anchor rope and lashing down our kit in the ISO containers we would send ahead of us to Port Stanley. There were inflatables and outboards to get, checks to make on their tubes, transoms and deck boards…… this wasn’t going to be somewhere we could rely on anyone but ourselves if we got into trouble! There were to be tents and all the cooking gear and banalities, toilet rolls, ration packs, flour, bread & eggs…all kinds of subsistence stuff we would need too, jerry cans, batteries, petrol generators and compressors for the cylinder fills….. This was a taste of real expedition planning and we would make it a success or failure with what we did here, in the UK, beforehand! Then there was the admin, passports, applications, flights to arrange…. all that ended up at Brize Norton early in the morning of 03^rd January 1996 where we assembled for the Tri-Star flight to Ascension Islands, about 1/2 of the way to Stanley Airfield, East Falkland Islands, our first point of local departure on our way to Weddell Island and adventure!

  Things didn’t go quite as smoothly as we would have liked, Ascension is a tiny island in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean, we landed at Wideawake, the island’s airfield simply to refuel, a Tri-Star is a hungry bird or so our RAF colleague who had joined the exped told me as we sat on the runway waiting for the needle to read “full”……..when it did the stink of paraffin had become quite a concern, normally the plane doesn’t reek of Avgas before take-off…. It turns out this didn’t surprise our RAF team member much, “Damien” (look up “The Omen”…) is a well-known problem child to the Brize Norton air crews and fitters. It turns out Damien had sprung a leak somewhere, I could see frantic activity below the Port wing from my seat, panels dropped and overall clad technicians wielding screwdrivers and spanners below it, for somewhere near an hour, before it was decided to disembark everyone and bus us to the local barracks to overnight on the island, and give the fitters a chance to cure the leak by morning

  I was desperate to see if the local military dive club would open up for a quick shore dive, no matter how much cash we promised to put behind the bar, there was going to be none of it….”too much swell” and “conditions are too marginal”….bollocks, just too much trouble to get things done by the look of things….but, whatever, it was an interesting overnight we hadn’t expected and broke the travel up nicely, we’d been on the plane around 8 hours as it was when we landed! So it was with a certain level of frustration that we climbed back on Damien for the leg to Stanley, and another 8 hours or so before we would arrive, a full day late, let’s hope transport is still waiting for us when we get there or things will go seriously sideways! The trip in is pretty boring as 8 hours on any RAF flight is, the staff are courteous and efficient but there’s no snacks trolley….and no alcohol either….but you do get a bit of excitement on approach, the last hundred miles or so two GR7 Tornado’s escorted us in, taking it in turns to buzz the flight and doing lazy rotations around us so close you could see the pilot & navigator clearly….awesome flying and a fabulous sight

  It got even more surreal as we dropped into Port Stanley and saw how tiny the airfield at Mount Pleasant was, it made you wonder if the Tri-Star, not a small plane, was going to be able to brake before the end of the runway! I had faith and that was rewarded with a sublime landing on that bleak little hill, fought so hard for by the British just a few brief years beforehand….and it was a brilliant end to the journey from Brize when, as we taxied to the arrivals lounge, passing the earth berm between runway and workshops, a line of mechanics stood on the top of the bund and raised score-cards, like dancing on ice or the Olympics…..bloody hilarious, I’d never seen the like, the pilot must have been proud, he’d got nearly clean 6’s across the piece……I was pissing myself laughing! It was with an air of anticipation we boarded our Bedford 4 tonner, provided by courtesy of the local REME LAD (Light Aid Detachment), to get to Port Stanley Harbour and our ISO container

So what was the mission? This wasn’t an ordinary expedition as Don had taken pains to point out to all joining the venture, we would split it into 3 phases and sadly, following an incident the previous year, we would not be diving on South Georgia, so, no under ice experiences nor glacier calving unfortunately, we were gutted, what the hell had happened, we were all excited at the prospect of real ice diving…. It turned out an expedition of military canoers and walkers had planned a split exped to South Georgia, where the walkers would “tab” the island and the canoers paddle the headlands carrying their supplies, the plan was to keep this up around the whole island or the majority of it at least. It turned out to be a bigger issue than expected, the walkers got a head start and made off, carrying very basic rations, they successfully got the 30 or so miles to their first destination and camped up waiting for the canoers, who had woken a day later to a South Atlantic storm, which meant they were never going to get to sea until it blew through, this changed the picture for those battened down against that same storm, but with little left to eat…..now it turns out Penguins are pretty timid birds…..and taste pretty much of salty chicken…..I will leave the remainder to your imagination, but suffice to say Penguins are a protected species, and that meant the military were persona non grata on South Georgia, despite having liberated the region from what would have been a pretty shitty life under the Argentinian Junta, ironically Don was one of those liberators, but the decision was final, no South Georgia phase to exercise Southern Craftsman, we were gutted!

  Don had 3 locations planned and the 3 phases, although changed with the impact of “Operation Salty Chicken Dinner”, would be environmental assessments of the differing locations. Following the Falklands Islands war and the re-establishment of UK sovereignty in the region, there was a very real chance of an influx of Oil Companies, hungry for new areas to exploit for the benefit of an exclusive elite, sat in board rooms across the globe, ignorant or uncaring of the destruction caused to pristine environments such as the archipelago’s of the Southern seas. Don had a mission from the Natural History Museum, gather specimens of local underwater species, kelps, sponges, anemones and whatever else could be had, and assess the eco-system health in the Three regions we would visit, take underwater photographs to record wildlife, and high quality film, and Don had been given one of the smaller BBC video cameras for the purpose. It was exciting to think there would be a record of our visit with some real importance attached to it! Our first phase would be Weddell Island, off West Falkland, originally called Swan Island, Weddell ad been discovered in 1766 on a hydrographic survey of the islands by Captain John McBride on the ship HMS Jason and eventually named after James Weddell a British Sealer who wrote  “A Voyage Towards the South Pole” having spent time on the island in 1820 and 1823

Once we got to the dock finding the ISO was easy, it had been set up already by the crew, that helped, all that remained was to check the contents, load up the remaining personal kit and lash the inflatables down, we needed at least one of the inflatables to ferry kit and people ashore at Weddell Island on arrival

  The trip out was a pleasant one, the St Brandan was a flat bottomed boat designed to be able to get close in to shore, (more about that later in the story) but it would be the inflatables we used to get our kit ashore. The ISO container would remain on the deck for the duration, allowing us an easier transition from each location and an element of storage should we need it. It helped that St Brandan had a huge crane on deck, a tracked and trackable unit that made on and off-loading a whole lot easier than hand-balling our kit!

On and off-loading with St Brandan’s crane….. a whole lot easier than hand-balling our kit

  Weddell Island, our destination, did not disappoint, low lying and bleak, we motored into the sheltered, narrow straight that was close to the sparse outpost of Empire that would be our base for the next week or so at Weddell Settlement, shown in the wildlife map below. The Falkland Islands are a wildlife sanctuary of huge importance and attract those amongst us who seek out the off-grid, remote areas, without missing the congestion of modern western society life styles

We lost little time getting the Inflatables going and transferred the kit to our host’s Land-rover in short order. This wasn’t a location needing tents, there was already a well-established bunk house at the settlement, used on the odd occasion for island hopping by those on tours of duty in Port Stanley, a hiking and nature trail “base” location. I was looking forward to this phase, it would be a great introduction to the Falklands and an opportunity for some really ground breaking diving!

 The little inflatables would be elevated to a level of respect well beyond our expectations in the next few days, they were a tight fit and the outboards were not exactly state of the art, but boy these little craft worked hard and well for the whole trip, making challenging journeys, loaded up and at the limits of their capabilities, on many occasions! They were easy to handle, rugged and they rode the sea in a particular way, flexing over wave peaks and absorbing impacts at the bow, to a degree, by folding slightly, making riding the waves a sinuous thing rather than like a RIB assaulting and breaking through…..it took some getting used to but it worked…..

  Exercise Southern Craftsman, Weddell Island, the Falkland Islands, South Atlantic Ocean, January 1996 was about to begin….we’d arrived, and this was, officially, the end of the beginning!

  Sunday 26^th June was one hell of a storm…..all diving cancelled and nothing to do but write up log-books and prepare to transfer to the final dive area at Discovery Bay, where we would be hosted by the University of the West Indies, using their facility, The Discovery Bay Marine Laboratory (DBML) at Mona, an hour out of Montego Bay.  The DBML had been around since its founding in 1965, by Professor Thomas F Goreau, dedicated to marine Biology, Research, Geology and Coral Reef Study, it was founded on land donated by the Kaiser Bauxite Company and funded by the Wolfson Foundation & CIDA. Professor Goreau was based out of Stonybrook University (New York), and DBML was a joint venture with SU(NY) until 1975, when the University of the West Indies took sole ownership and eventually founded the Centre for Marine Sciences (CMS) in 1990

  Don had pulled another blinder, this was a great location, with on-site accommodation blocks, a wealth of knowledge of the diving in the area, and their own boats. It looked like we were in for another great week’s diving! We settled into our bunk-house, a two storey block segregated into bunk rooms, and got out our kit for checking and a bit of prep

The rooms were 4 man bunk affairs and comfy enough but with little, if any, air-conditioning, it made for hot, restless, sleep deprived nights, there were decent kitchen facilities in the main building and apart from the odd electrical “outage” things were pretty decent. The rooms were plagued by Mosquito’s, but we had nets and bought coils of noxious substances to keep as many out as we could, and they worked….of a fashion

Our first dive, after we had serviced the boat engines and cleaned the plugs and filters, was just around the headland to one of the University study sites on a local reef, my log book says:  “…..Small boat dive – Discovery Bay (JA) Down to 21m and a guided tour round a reef, plenty of small fish about in bright coloured shoals and a visit to the university pens full of Lobster & a huge Crab…Air In 210 out 100 W/Temp 28’ Buddy John…” I liked the reef, immediately in front of the DBML quay, it was made of large outcrops with White sand between, like islands if you will, surrounded by Powder Blue of the Caribbean Sea, easy and beautiful diving, a pleasure to be in. Not bad for what was, essentially, a check-out dive by the university, who had been quite adamant that our diver cox’s should prove their skills before we were allowed to take the boats out ourselves and do some exploring!

Our next dive out of the local bay was out to the main reef, the reef fringes Jamaica’s entire North coast, being almost continuous its entire length. It runs across the bay front, separating it from the open sea, starting around 300m from DBML, which is on the bay’s West side as you can see from the Admiralty Chart at the beginning of this piece. In fact you can see the reef in the shot above, just behind the Skiffs, most obvious slightly beyond the rock outcrop. This dive, we had decided, would be on the outer, seaward side of the reef, a little more adventurous, given that the reef wall descends to 200m plus not far from the reef itself, the dive log entry for June 28^th ‘94:  “….Small Boat Dive – Discovery Bay (JA) Freefall past a reef @20m going down to who knows how deep then back up to the 15m mark and along gullies full of life, caught sight of a large Ray but couldn’t I.D it found a Spotted Moray in a hide and had a 10 min stay at a great coral head full of Snappers and Yellowtails  Air in 210 out 75 W/Temp 28’ Buddy’s Don & Rob”  

  The geology of the area is predominantly Limestone, there are popular caves (The Green Grotto), which are tourist traps, locally, and the area is essentially a Karst type environment, as described here: (Bonem R.M: “Effects of Submarine Karst Development on Reef Succession”. In: Proceedings of the 6^th International Coral Reef Symposium, Australia, 1988, Vol.3) where, in the abstract (introduction) Bonem states: “The geomorphic configuration of the limestone substrate commonly has been modified by one or more phases of subaerial karst development prior to submergence.” And goes on to quote: “Discovery Bay, located on the north coast of Jamaica between Montego Bay and St. Ann’s Bay (figure 1). has been a centre for reef studies since the late 1960’s. According to Woodley & Robinson (1977, p. 18), Discovery Bay has been described as a “drowned river valley excavated by solution, which has been partly cut off from the sea by recent reef growth.” The bay is a circular, saucer-like depression with a maximum depth of -53 metres. A submerged collapse doline (sinkhole) occurs in the northwest corner of the shallow shelf that restricts the bay. A fault, trending approximately N. 40′ E., can be traced from land into the bay, cutting the shallow shelf and displacing the east forereef -10 metres relative to the west forereef (Liddell & Ohlhorst 1981).”

Our next dive went looking for the evidence of the fault mentioned, a source of fresh water permeating into the sea in the form of underwater haloclines, areas of distinct visual disturbances where salt and fresh water mix and end up in layers of different salinities with different refraction indexes…..we weren’t disappointed either, my log records: “…Small Boat Dive – Discovery Bay (JA) Down to 16.6m Viz down to 2m due to the fresh water springs in the area Right of the marine lab Still eerie at the thermocline everything cloaked in mist – good dive still….” It sounds like I’m defending myself here, the “thermocline” existed too, it was distinctly cooler where the fresh water springs entered the sea, so you had the effect of both salinity drop and temperature drop…..it was a cool dive but not my first in such a distinct visual paradox

Whilst Jamaica was becoming more and more a tourist destination, it wasn’t lost on us that there were other industries on the island, just around the bay from us was the loading dock for Bauxite, the Red coloured mineral so abundant in the local hills. There had been a Bauxite mine inland of Discovery bay since the 1950’s (1952 “Reynolds”, “Kaiser” & later that year “Alcan”) and during the post war years Aluminium, produced from Bauxite, was a growth metal industry, especially so in the USA. Bauxite had definitely had an influence on the seabed local to the loading dock, we took a dive further round from the DBML and found nothing there worth looking at, we were away from the reefs admittedly, but the seabed was pretty barren

  It’s easy to jump to conclusions and I’m not generally that type of person, it is coincidental that the DBML was given land by the Kaiser group, heavily invested in Bauxite production, but again, that does not mean Bauxite is particularly damaging the area beyond its own moorings. If this kind of thing interests you, then I recommend you take a look at Perry C.T and Taylor K.G “Impacts of Bauxite Sediment Inputs on a Carbonate-Dominated Embayment, Discovery Bay, Jamaica”. In the Journal of Coastal Research: Volume 20, Issue 4: pp. 1070 – 1079 (2004), where they state: “Highest contaminant levels (Fe—13,701 ppm, Mn—237 ppm, Zn—74 ppm) occur immediately adjacent to, and just north-east of, a bauxite loading terminal in the south-west of the bay” in the abstract……. Another paper by Two of those and a further contributor (Phillip Machent) of 2006 is telling, inset “B” where the core sampling is represented noting “Open rubble framework with isolated sediment patches less than 4% Live Coral Cover”.  Even I can’t see high concentrations of Iron (Fe), Magnesium (Mn) and Zinc (Zn) being a good thing if I am honest…….

We moved back out of the confines of the bay to the outer reef wall again on the 30^th June and my dive log records one of the best dives we did there: “…..Small Boat Dive – Discovery Bay (JA) Down the wall to 42m One Great Descent, couple of mins @ 42m then a slow ascent back up through the coral to 30 then a trip through the gullies & small shoals – great dive – Air in 210 out 80 W/Temp 28’ Buddy Rob” Something of an improvement on the dive to follow, where we went looking for 3 caves supposed to be in the area, not surprising in a Limestone Karst geology, but we didn’t find anything and the dive was unremarkable “….. Down around 28m to find 3 caves – No Luck – Back up to 15m for a bimble, but not so much to see….”

The next dive, on the same day (01^st July 1994) was one of my favourites in Discovery Bay, we held back until early evening and went out for a night dive, I loved night diving by now and this one, despite coming at a personal cost, was a good one”, I’ll let the log book lead: “…..Small Boat Dive Discovery Bay (JA) Night Dive – Plenty to see Two small Leopard Rays – a huge Moray Eel – several Cuttle-Fish and Lobsters, Two Sea Snakes and various reef fish – stung by Sea Wasp Jelly – Fish on ascent but great dive, clear Star filled Sky full of Summer Lightening on return – GREAT. Air in 210 out 100 W/Temp 28’ Buddy’s Neil & Hayden”  I said the dive came at a personal cost, those bloody Sea Wasp jellies hurt like hell….. I was ascending and minding my own business, just meandering up to our 3 minutes safety stop and felt like I’d been stabbed in the lip, then in the groin….nothing to see in the dark but clear water, just an agonising pain left to suck-up whilst waiting for deco to end…..bugger!  You won’t know what I mean unless you get on the wrong end of one of these little Fcukers…. it was enough to bring a tear to the eyes

  Our last dive day, 02^nd July 1994 and it was going to be hard to leave, we knew the expedition was coming to an end and we wanted to go out on a memorable high, we weren’t disappointed and the log says it all: “…….Small Boat Dive – Pear Tree Bay (JA) Down to 26m for a look for the tunnels, this time we found them no problem, tied off the SMB and led through one from 17m to 20m – 15m longish full of coral – then back through after Ian – carried on for 30m or so and found another tunnel 20m long – narrow & coral filled from 17m down to 25m, tied off – led – then returned, through clouds of silt – eerie then on to 6m in the gullies to fizz off – Brilliant last dive!! Air in 200 out 60 W/Temp 28’ Buddy Ian” I loved the dive, it was everything the Caribbean could offer in terms of reef diving, the swim through’s peppered with untouched corals, fish swimming everywhere, a truly beautiful dive and a sad one too…..it was done, over, our 3 weeks in Jamaica had come to an end……….. and I was gutted

Port Antonio, capital of Portland Parish, a city on Jamaica’s northeast coast, the gateway to John Crow Mountains, tropical jungles, Blue Lagoons & and Crystal Clear waterfalls, fed by underground springs and flowing into the warm Caribbean Sea………. 

  Dragon Bay turned out to be far different than Port Royal, where Port Royal had pirate heritage and was a working city with all that implied, where the Government yards still existed in Trenchtown and where there were areas you wouldn’t particularly want to be at night, Dragon Bay was a resort, private in its own secluded bay with all you would expect from that exclusivity…..a million miles from what Bob Marley grew up in and somewhere Hollywood had recognized for its peace, tranquility and beautiful Caribbean beaches. Those who remember the Tom Cruise film “Cocktail” would instantly recognise the beach bar; it was where the majority of the film was shot…….That’s not the only Hollywood movie filmed there either, just around the headland in Frenchman’s Bay they shot blue Lagoon with Brooke Shields……..

  It turns out Don had dropped lucky with this phase of the Expedition, Dragon Bay had just been through a transfer of ownership and had been undergoing some refurbishment, it was not yet ready for guests but the owners were happy to let us use the chalet accommodation in Two of the blocks before they opened for regular business. There was not One single complaint from any of us…..there was a bar, the beach bar, a restaurant and a beach-side pool…..this was slumming it….big-time!  There was even an on-site Dive operation “Lady G-Diver” run by a very attractive local girl and her crew. Don had arranged to use them for cylinders & weights and to use their skiff and diver cox’n to get us to local sites and back

  So, where were we in more global terms? Portland formally became a Jamaican “parish” in 1723, it was originally to be called Port Antonio by order of the Duke of Portland, the then-Governor of Jamaica, after whom it is named. The existing port was planned to become a naval stronghold intended to protect settlers from attacks by the Spanish from the sea. By 1729 the British had begun construction of Fort George, on the peninsula separating the East and West harbours known as the Titchfield promontory. In the 1880’s Lorenzo Dow Baker who started the banana trade in Jamaica, began promoting the sleepy little coastal town of Port Antonio as a destination for wealthy Americans. Portland took off and quickly became a tourist driven boom town. The influx of tourists and the concurrent shipping of Bananas’ became so large that, at one time, weekly sailing from Port Antonio was purported to be greater than weekly sailings from Liverpool….

  Dragon’s bay was a wonderful location, an idyllic place where at night, firefly’s hummed everywhere, lighting the trees around you, I had never seen Firefly’s and found them mesmerising in the heat of the tropical evenings, as dusk fell to the dark of night. One evening I sat on the veranda in front of the resort restaurant, empty of people as we were the only guests there for the duration, and watched as far out to sea a storm of epic proportions chased across the horizon, angry and purple at its base, but white and huge the clouds above…..and watched, hypnotised, as incredible lightening forks danced to Earth and struck the Caribbean sea….. the anger of Gods creating a light show Pink Floyd could only dream of………

We took advantage of the excellent bay location to undertake some training dives and some photographic work, the exped had brought an underwater camera, it wasn’t something I was particularly interested in at the time, however I had a go on at least one dive in the secluded bay. The shots I took turned out to be pretty poor, there is a distinct art to photography, and when it came to adding depth and light correction to the mix….I just did not have the time, or interest  to take it seriously! The diving was great around Dragon Bay, we had far better visibility than at Kingston throughout, our first dive there giving us 24m, measured off an SMB reel! The log book reads: “….Small boat dive Alligator Head (J) Great descent (freefall) to 28m and onto a large reef that drops to 60m teeming with life Coral and accompanied round by a shoal of Silver – Black barred Angel fish Very large for this area a fantastic dive……”

  This was the location of my very first night dive, the second dive made at Dragon Bay which we undertook in the bay itself. The sheltered nature of the gentle sloping sandy shore, and the coral outcrops we could see from the shore in daylight, meant it was an obvious choice, easy access, no boats required…..perfect! The log book says all I recall, despite the adventurous nature of the dive itself in terms of my experiences to date: “….Shore dive – Dragon Bay (JA) 1^st True Night Dive – Around a coral bay sometimes down to 0.5m depth – Two large Puffer Fish – a Sea Snake – lots of smaller reef fish beautifully coloured – a couple of Crayfish A great dive…..”

  In l956 Canadian business tycoon Garfield Weston purchased 45 acres of prime ocean real-estate in Jamaica planning a retreat for himself and his staff. Mr Weston missed a clause in the deeds to the property mandating its development as a public resort, thus prompting the development of one of the most memorable resorts in Jamaica…… Frenchman’s Cove is in the parish of Portland, in a secluded corner of the island located on the northwest shore of Jamaica, the John Crow mountains (a native Jamaican hawk giving them their name from it’s almost ubiquitous presence on the up-drafts of warm tropical air lifting it lazily into the sky) run down to the sea, amidst hidden coves and lush tropical forest washed by the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean Sea. Frenchman’s Cove evokes a chapter in Jamaica’s sugar industry, milling made use of a stream running through the cove and occupies a significant place in the islands history. The cove has been used for various films, Blue Lagoon, a Brooke Shields film based on a novel by Henry De Vere Stacpoole shot there in 1978, and, most notably William Golding’s the Lord of the Flies shot in 1988. Interestingly, from a scuba perspective, the underwater filming in Blue Lagoon was by Ron & Valerie Taylor, probably most famous for Blue Water White Death, the 1971 White Shark odyssey featuring Rodney Fox, the former Abalone fisherman savaged, to the point of near death in a Great White attack off Aldinga Beach just South of Adelaide, Australia

The next few dives (in all we dived 9 times out of Dragon Bay during the 5 days we were there), all of them surrounded by a myriad of Caribbean reef fish, were similar, some deeper dives around the 25 to 30 meter mark, with a few more shore dives thrown in. There are many reefs out in both directions from the resort, to the Left and Frenchman’s Cove, to the right and Alligator Head……all of them similar, abundant coral, fans, coral heads, table corals and brain corals, wonderful to see, with plenty of sandy swim-through’s, some of which go right under the coral one side to the other, landward to ocean…… one of the more brilliant things to do on coral reefs! I had a “Tropical Fish of the Caribbean” slate with me, I had already seen and identified an Octopus, a 3’ Barracuda and a big Ocean Trigger fish, and on one dive alone logged:  “…..Small boat Dive – Alligator Head (JA) free fall to 35m down the side of a reef from 20m back up and along it – the most beautiful yet – endless coral – all types & these are just the fish I can I.D. lg Black Durgon – Trigger Fish – Balloon Fish – trumpet Fish – Dusky Squirrel Fish – Juvenile Clown Wrasse – Butthead Wrasse – Striped Parrot Fish and Blue Tang Some List – Some Dive !!…….”  On our last dive out of Dragon Bay I added Scorpion Fish, Four-eye Butterfly Fish, Doctor Fish, Yellowtail Snapper, Yellowtail Damsel Fish and Blue-head Wrasse to the list….but we hadn’t seen any sharks the whole 5 days! It is, however, an awesome location for those who love marine biology and especially reef denizens

Dragon Bay 2019

  It is desperately sad to look at the resort today, remembering it with such joy from the days of 1994. Almost 14 years after the Gordon Stewart-led Sandals Group acquired Dragon Bay, having promised to transform it into “the Caribbean’s most luxurious resort”, the 99-room facility is closed, the closure having sent the local community, (whom I remember very fondly having spent several nights with locals, listening to “Hard” Reggae,  eating BBQ cooked Jerk Chicken and downing Red Stripe from fridges powered off local houses in the town square), to the brink of financial ruin. The Sunday Gleaner, the local Jamaican news sheet  reports: The mayor of Port Antonio, Wayne McKenzie, expressed his concern regarding the continued closure of Dragon Bay saying “…..we are equally concerned about the fact that it has been closed for so long. Prior to its closure, it was the most promising hotel in terms of employment in the parish, so it has been a major concern to us for quite a while now“. McKenzie acknowledges the continued closure has been influenced by a failure to update the local Airport and the coastal road connecting to the Dragon Bay resort. As someone who loved being in Dragon Bay and who found the locals wonderful and welcoming people, and, with the diving and location being so beautiful, it is a tragedy if this continues, it truly is…… Sandals should be ashamed of their behaviour! You can still dive the area as Lady G’Diver still operates, but now out of the Quay on the Errol Flynn Marina, at the New Marina Port Antonio…..say Hi and tell her I sent you……… http://www.ladygdiver.com/

http://www.ladygdiver.com

I had applied to join my first Army diving expedition back in January or February of 1994, I was recovering from an injury received carrying around 120lbs of kit, 40lbs of webbing and ammo, and a section weapon, patrolling Big Dog Forest on a typical “away-day” in the province. I had fallen in an overgrown fire-break ditch, unlucky or just too stupid to notice…..either way, I had ripped the perennial tendon in my Right ankle and had spent 3 months of rehabilitation to get to a point I could walk without a limp. Whilst convalescing, I had seen a small advert for those “interested and qualified in scuba-diving” to take part in an expedition expecting to explore the remoter areas of the Caribbean, in support of, and with the assistance of, the Jamaican Defence Force (JDF). It was noted this would be an arduous and challenging enterprise with little or no frills, and an expectation that “training experience” would be a valued contribution…….I was a BSAC Dive-Leader, and current  Training Officer of the TIDSAC club, I might just stand a chance on this one…. The deciding OIC (Officer in Charge), the guy I needed to impress,  was a WO2 D. Shirley, “Don” as I would later learn……..God must have been smiling on me the day Don read my application…….I got a joining instruction about a month later…..result!

  It still took me some work to get approval from my OC, Major Andrews, it helped that he couldn’t stand me and that I had already crossed him (a couple of times) in order to get transferred to the Royal Welch Fusiliers to “go feral” in the province in the first place. We had “past” too…. I had been sent out on the UN tour of “Former Yugoslavia” the year before my N.I. tour, (at a point when my first marriage was falling to pieces), on a promise from Maj Andrews that I would be transferred to 5 airborne on my return (the only ambition I had in the Army), needless to say this had been BS on his part, and on my return to Tidworth it seemed the posting had conveniently been brushed under a carpet somewhere…..I had had my tits full and told him so to his face……to give him “some” credit, over that weekend he discussed my belligerence with Colonel Bob Lloyd of the Royal Welch (resident infantry battalion in Tidworth at the time) who had me marched in on the Monday after, and who seemed to recognise my type of crazy ……..”Most of my men don’t want to go across, even though it’s their job…..what’s your problem Son?….What makes you want this…..have you got a death wish?”  I must have said something right as I got a short order to join battalion preparation as of that Wednesday. The rest is history, 7 months on and the injury I picked up there put me back under Major Andrews for the remains of my military life. Re-hab meant I was practically useless to the REME at that point, so I got my “approval” (much to the absolute disgust of the then Sgt Major, a monumental bell-end…….classic “SPS” case), I was off to Jamaica, first stop Norman Manley Airport……

  I hadn’t left drama completely behind me, it took several weekends of loading dive and supplemental kit into an ISO container for the exped, but that was a breeze really, we were not attempting self-sufficiency, Don had arranged cylinders and weights at the Three locations we would dive, Port Royal, Dragon Bay and Discovery Bay, and the use of a compressor from the JDF in Port Royal, so it was mostly personal dive-kit and gear. Flights were, unusually (for the Army), from Gatwick, Don didn’t trust that the exped would have sufficient “pull” at Brize Norton to stay on track, it wasn’t unusual for “re-assignment” of flights out of Brize, last minute dot-com, and that wasn’t something Don would tolerate. So we found ourselves on civvy flights, rare luxury if you are used to the webbing seats in a C130 (Hercules), or facing the wrong way flying on a Tri-Star! As we descended into Norman Manley everything seemed fine, I could see the runway approaching and was expecting the “bounce” as the landing gear took the load hitting the runway, but the pilot hit the throttle and the engines screamed as we clawed for more air…..this was getting interesting……and those around me were getting paler and the smiles had disappeared too…… As we gained altitude, and the aircraft banked Right the pilot piped up on the intercom….”Apologies for the go-round on this one folks, someone decided to walk across the runway as we were about to land…..” Welcome to Jamaica, where taking things easy is a way of life, and the locals are definitely not in any hurry….. whatsoever…… Irie!

  A little history & background, for those of you who like that kind of stuff: Kingston was a popular port in the 16^th and 17^th centuries with both English and Dutch “privateers”, basically another term for Pirates, who made trading in the area a game of Russian roulette for honest captains and less honest alike! It should be understood, these privateers were often under “letters of marque” to actively encourage raiding of Spanish treasure fleets in the days of impending war with Spain. Many well-known privateers, Henry Morgan, Edward Teach (Blackbeard), John Rackham (Calicoe Jack), women privateers too…. Mary Read, Anne Bonney, and their like used the city as their base during the 17^th & 18th centuries. Port Royal, with its surrounding town and the harbour of Kingston, was founded around 1518 by the Spanish and was, at the time, the largest city in the Caribbean;

  Kingston was eventually captured by England in 1655, and in 1657 Governor Edward D’Oley invited the “Brethren of the Coast” (a group of pirate buccaneers) to make Port Royal their home port. A stroke of genius really, the pirates had been stripped of land by the Spanish, taking their revenge by commerce raids on Spanish shipping, plying the lucrative seaway between Mexico and Spain laden with treasure looted from the Incas. This weakened the Spanish, their treasure galleons no longer safe at sea, and such commercial attrition gave strength to the region without significant burden on the British Royal Navy. The pirates were very often “legalised” as English privateers, and many were given “letters of marque”, licences to operate as commercial raiders, by Jamaica’s governor

By 1659 there were as many as two hundred houses, shops and warehouses surrounding a fort, and in a few short years Kingston had become known as the “Sodom of the New World” renowned for drunkenness with a ratio of a drinking house for every 10 residents! By 1692 there were five forts defending the port and it became the center of Caribbean shipping in the 17th century. On the 7th June 1692 Kingston fell foul of an earthquake which, through liquefaction (when the ground is shaken by the quake and becomes super- saturated by water, it essentially acts as if it were quick-sand in a swamp), destroyed the larger part of it and then, as is often the case, was quickly followed by a huge tsunami which finished the job

  It was the English who re-named “Cagway” (as it was known at the time), “Port Royal” and it served as the country’s unofficial capital, while Spanish Town remained the official capital up until 1872 when the British government designated Kingston, by now the largest city, as the new capital of Jamaica

  Diving Port Royal, our first, of Three exped locations began on the 15^th June with a check-out dive in the harbour area where we were berthed on the JDF fast patrol boat “Thunderhawk”. Things did not go well….I was buddied up with Dean (2^nd Lt D. Kelly-Smith) and when we surfaced from our 15 minute dive, both our heads were aching like we’d been out in Andover for a weekend after winning the lottery…..I knew that meant one thing, the air in our cylinders was contaminated and, as I was responsible for equipment on the exercise, I needed to stop further diving until we knew what was going wrong

Not a popular decision, considering there were another 11 divers (Two already in the water) eager to get wet…..I stood my ground and Don supported the decision, after a strip-down of the local JDF compressor, it turned out oil was leaking into the First stage from a failed ‘O’-ring….I was vindicated, better yet, the exped had proved its approach to safe diving practices!  There was enough daylight left to get back in the water that afternoon and we took Two locally hired RIB’s out into the bay, my log reads:  “…..Rib Dive – Gun Bay- Jamaica  Great First Dive out of the Harbour – Dropped on to a reef @ 10m 8 Lobsters in One spot, Plenty of colourful small fish, One fair sized Angel Fish Plenty to see – real good dive Finished with some skills work….Air in 200 out 75 w/temp 28’ Buddy Dean…..”

  Day 2 in Kingston (16/06/1994) and we ventured out a little further, although plagued by the restrictions of the small, barely adequate, inflatables hired locally, we still managed to get out of the harbour and into the shipping lanes and across to Lime Cay. The size of the inflatables meant we must get back to shore to change cylinders, the trip back out after the morning dive was choppy……Lime Cay is idyllic, a vision of what you imagine tropical islands to be, isolated in powder blue sea, the green of the sparse cay growth a perfect contrast to the near White coral sand, with a back-drop of Blue sky and whisps of cloud…….this was as far from Portland diving as it is possible to get, and I was enjoying it……but, as yet, there were no wrecks……

  Our dives at Lime Cay were decent enough, the scenery was familiar, sandy sea-bed with outcrops of Coral, known sometimes as “Bommies” but I’ve no idea why, there were myriad creatures congregated in and around those coral heads and it was interesting to see the colours, vibrant and starkly contrasting against the general White of the coral outcrops, my next dive was written up:  “Rib Dive – Lime Cay – Kingston (JA) Viz 0-4m – Plenty of small colourful life – plus an eel – and a Stone Fish – good dive……..” The afternoon dive was less of a success, my mask continually steaming up throughout and either as a result, or coincidentally, there was “…..little to see….” I started the 12m dive with 210bar in my cylinder and finished 30 minutes later with 150 Bar, but even a poor dive in the Caribbean is better than the best day in an office!

Our next day out was on the JDF patrol boat assigned to us whenever it could be spared from local patrols, it was a hell of a way to get around, its powerful Diesel engines making short work of the choppy sea we had struggled against the day before in the little and under-powered RIB’s. On the way out to the site we were accompanied by a Dolphin, an opportunity I did not intend to let pass to see one of these creatures as close up as I could get, so we called progress and got in the water, I saw it there beautiful against the powder Blue of the sea, a second or Two and it was gone, bored there was no bow-wave to ride….The dive log entry:    “Hardboat Dive _ Farewell Buoy – (JA) Rough ride out – Disorientated on descent by Anchor Chain Movement Down a Pleasant Gully (After Spotting A Dolphin Fleetingly) Full of small fish – & Purple Fan Coral – Beautiful……”

The next dive that afternoon was over at Wreck Reef, my log book entry sells this one short: “Hardboat Dive – Wreck Reef – (JA) Fantastic Start – Shark passed the boat! In to 4m Plenty of Purple Fan Coral then a 4-5’ Nurse Shark – 2 mins later a Manta Ray – Fabulous – few large Crayfish, A Memorable Dive….” Now this doesn’t describe the start of the dive at all well, when the boat stopped the shark I mentioned came in for a look round the stern where we were kitting up, in typical “movie” fashion it circled with its dorsal fin out of the water looking every bit as menacing as you would expect….Don gave a bit of advice, Jonah, you’re in first, just don’t hang round giving OK signals at the surface, get to the bottom from the off! I figured it was good advice, I got in as the shark turned back from a wide circle off the stern, and I dumped all my air from the stab on contact with the surface and cleared my ears as I descended, I could clearly see sharks below me but they were spooked by this noisy sod disturbing their afternoon….and they headed off…..I was kneeling there waiting for my buddy John….and it took 4 or 5 minutes before he joined me……Now I’m not saying for one minute Don waited to see if I made it…..but I’m pretty sure Don waited to see if I made it before letting John get in after me…….That’s harsh….that’s an officer’s trick Don!

  That brings us to the 19^th June of 1994, and the last dive we would do in Kingston before heading around to Dragon’s Bay, you remember what I said after the Lime Cay dives? (….but as yet there were no wrecks…) …… that last dive was the HMT Texas…..By now you should know where you will find that dive written up!