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Lanzarote, Arrecife

February 23, 2022 by Colin Jones Leave a Comment

FSAC on Tour: Caverns, Blue Holes & a Wreck

The Cathedral (Web Photo: Courtesy Calipso Diving)

I had last seen a cavern on my trip to Florida and Ginny Springs in April 2004, Jason McNamara, one of my Divemasters had been living in Lanzarote for a year or so by then. Jason had returned on a family holiday with his girlfriend Nerina summer of ’04 and got talking about the diving there and had me interested, there were a couple of wrecks that were worth looking at and a couple of caverns too. It didn’t take me long to turn interest into another trip for FSAC and for my family, a little Canary Island Sun would not hurt anyone, especially in a UK Autumn likely to be close to zero degrees and wet with it! There were three of the club up for a dive break too, Tracy, Rob & Jim, all Nitrox students, and considering it would be a second break that year, Ellen was ok with it becoming an “official” dive trip that she and the boys would tag onto, just to enjoy the warmer weather and somewhere different. We managed to get decent accommodation behind Playa Blanca (away from the party area) in a nice little complex with a decent pool for Ellen & the boys and just down the road from some nice little back street restaurants for the evenings. The dive centre that would help us out and provide the RIB’s and gas mixes was Calipso Diving in Costa Teguise run by Jason & Nerina’s Dive Boss Peter

Calipso Diving, Costa Teguise (Web Photo: Courtesy Calipso Diving)

I have to say Lanzarote was not a destination I would have usually chosen as a holiday, the Canaries had something of a reputation for being “party” destinations and that was never going to be my idea of fun. It took Jason & Nerina some time to convince me there was a better side to the Islands than expected, and that the diving was good too, the flight time helped too, and there was plenty for Ellen & the lads so if the diving was as good as Jason & Nerina said then we’d all be happy! Once we had settled into the apartment’s and looked around the complex a bit I was happier, the boys were delighted with the pool, Ellen was happy and the rooms were great, well away from the 24/7 crowd too, not that we wouldn’t drop down to the harbour and its bars, but far enough away that we could spend some quieter time too….. We logged in with Calipso too, to get the kit sorted for the first dive which would be a wreck, the Rabat, a modern Seine Net fishing trawler that had failed to make it to dock sinking in 32m just off Arrecife

The Rabat Bow off Arrecife (Web Photo: Courtesy Matt32)

The Rabat was one of the fishing boats used to harvest the North African Seas around Cape Juby, fitted with freezer capabilities to facilitate longer and more productive trips, and a part of the Spanish economic boom of the 1960’s. The Franco Government had introduced programmes to encourage the ownership of bigger, more modern trawlers to improve the Spanish fishing fleets, and financed some of the purchase costs. Those larger vessels made their home ports in the Canaries and were operated largely by Galician fishing families who migrated South to the Canaries to take advantage of the Saharan coastal fish shoals (Meltzoff S. K. & Lipuma E. “the troubled seas of Spanish fishermen: marine policy and the economy of change” University of Miami Press Online Resource: https://anthrosource.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1525/ ae.1986.13.4.02a00060 Accessed: 13/02/2022) The increase in foreign fishing, especially in regards to Spanish fleets became controversial in the 1970’s and countries like Morocco, the prime North African coastline the Canary Island fleets had enjoyed,  began to protect their waters from Spanish fleets. Although when we dived the Rabat it was said to have “floundered as it tried to return to port”, it is now generally believed to have been scuttled by a disgruntled owner who could fish an ever decreasing area and was seeing greatly reduced catches as a result

Rabat Lettering on the Vessels Bridge (Web Photo: Courtesy ilanzarote.net)

My Green Navy Log recorded: “23/10/04 LANZAROTE The Rabat Wreck This is a fishing trawler which didn’t make it back into port. 10 mins from the harbour modern vari-speed props & wholly intact on it’s port side. Shot at stern & we fought a bit of a current to descend & look round the props, along a little at max depth & then into the stern via a hatch & through the hold area to see the nets still in place. Out of the deck hatch & along to the bridge which we cut up through, front glass still in place. Plenty of Amberjack & wonderful little crab-shrimp beautifully coloured – shoals of small silver fish. Back out along the starboard hull & up to the shot for the safety stop Air In 230 Out 100 32% Nitrox Mix Buddy Jim Leigh”

The Rabat, Starboard Gangway (Web Photo: Courtesy Matt32)

The Rabat was another one of those great dives spoiled somewhat by the likely method of sinking, although nothing could be certain, it takes the edge off a wreck dive when you suspect it has been an insurance job, sunk surreptitiously. It still is far removed from the placing of hulls deliberately to entice divers and I enjoyed the Rabat wreck on that basis, deliberate sinking had never been proven, just suspected………

Prop of the Rabat Wreck (Web Photo: Courtesy Matt32)

Our next dive was to be one Jason had talked about often, one of his favourites called the Blue Eyes or depending on whose dive centre you were with, Skull Cave. I think it opportune to point out that Lanzarote is a volcanic island, obvious to those of you who have perhaps visited Timanfaya Park, but not so to those who have not I rather suppose! Timanfaya is an active volcanic biosphere, named after the volcano that created it, Timanfaya volcano, it is well worth a visit and can easily be reached by car, or one of the numerous tours bookable at any of the island’s resorts, I was determined the family would get to see it and the divers wanted to come along too

Timanfaya Camels (Web Photo: Courtesy spain.info)

Ellen and I chose to get the kids there over the last mile or so by Camel, an easy ride in makeshift seats carrying several people either side on one animal, a far different affair than my last Camel ride in Tunisia where I was on my own, but then the boys were only 10 or 12 at the time so the seats were a better bet. The park shows many different features of a volcanic landscape from unusual Sulphurous smells, to BBQ’s over volcanic vents, and steam plumes escaping on regular occasions, giving a very surreal landscape which they enjoyed enormously, well worth a visit too. However the descriptive is only to illustrate the underwater features of the island’s coast as Lanzarote is pock-marked by volcanic vents which originate from lava tubes that have spewed out the rising molten rock, leaving behind the empty and sometimes collapsed tubes for those of a mind to explore, both on land and underwater around the coastline. Those lava vents are what forms the caverns and caves of the underwater terrain of Lanzarote, and it is to those we descend next

Blue Eyes Exit (Web Photo: Courtesy ilanzarote.net)

Calipso had arranged for us to take several of the cave and cavern dives as shore dives and provided us with a dive guide to ensure we got the right entry and exit, and a decent truck for the gear, as a couple of the drop-off points would be local tracks to make the swims shorter, the log records: “25/10/04 LANZAROTE Blue Eyes/Skull Caves. Long swim out to the cave with plenty of colourful fish with a very large Ray in the sand which took off as if “on cue” beautiful! A shoal of Barracuda with many fish just to our right & then into the cave from 14m to 30 a narrow entrance which has several “windows” allowing light in, then into the main chamber full of nooks & crannies & air wells down a narrow hallway to exit from the Skull’s left eye. Very nice dive. Off back to deco through the ascent & climb out up the shore rock plateau. Nitrox 32% Air In 200 Out 60 Buddy Jim Leigh” The cavern diving on Lanzarote is nothing particularly challenging, there is light visible throughout, and the diving is excellent for the tourist diver who wants a little more than rock sand and the occasional colourful fish. The other side of the caverns is the lure that they have, the almost imperceptible temptation to want to see beyond the light, to go further into the dark places, I was beginning to understand the title of Martyn Farr’s caving book “The Darkness Beckons”

The Cathedral (Web Photo: Courtesy TripAdvisor)

Our next dive would be the Cathedral, a local feature of the volcanic vents perhaps, either way, a huge cavern mouth in the rock face at 30m or so to the sand, so a deeper dive for those getting used to using Nitrox. All three students were taking the transition in their strides, Tracy, Jim & Rob were enjoying it too, the overall feeling reported was nothing dramatic, just a clearer feeling on the dive and less fatigue than previously. Pointing out the safer aspect of equivalent air depth calculations for dive times, and the better Oxygenation in circulation just rounded off the experience I think, the more enjoyable experience of being in clear, warm Blue water was not lost on them either, Stoney Cove is a great training environment but the cold experienced in 4’ water can easily call longer dive-times into question….especially in winter

Playas Chicas, Lanzarote (Web Photo: Courtesy TripAdvisor)

Most of the diving in Lanzarote is shore diving, I’m not worried how I get to a dive site as long as the diving is good, I’m not convinced that the reason shore diving is more prevalent is the fees for RIB hire the dive-shops would incur, or the cost of buying dive-RIBs, but whatever, you go with the flow where you must! Another trip out in the 4 x 4 with our gear following in the truck and we reached the headland and our entry point at Playa Chica (which I believe translates as beach girl), with two pronounced rock headlands sticking out into the sea either side of the beach itself, the log book records: “26/10/04 LANZAROTE “The Cathedral” a huge overhang which housed soft corals and plenty of small fish all really beautifully coloured. One large grouper resident and another out to the far side of the overhang. Plenty of sea slugs & fish on the swim back & a strong current to fight too Nitrox 32 Air In 200 Out 70 Buddy Jim Leigh” I recall humping the dive kit down to the entry point on the rocks was a little challenging, volcanic rock is pretty abrasive stuff, you wouldn’t want to take a fall, so care is needed! The issue with shore diving that does warrant some discussion is dive pricing, as we are all aware, RIB diving can be expensive, it’s not unreasonable for the main, as dive-centres would go out of business if it were, but it is pricey. Shore diving abroad doesn’t seem that much cheaper, there is the transport and local knowledge of the entry & exit points, and the actual sites themselves, but be cautious, there are plenty of options in most areas, check what you are getting, one dive guide between 4 divers often is not sufficient, especially in caves, or if two buddy pairs don’t breathe at similar rates…….

Blue Hole, Puerto Del Carmen (Web Photo: Courtesy Manta)

The Blue Hole is probably the best known dive on Lanzarote, it even features on PADI’s web site, which should indicate how popular the dive is to those visiting the Canaries. It is the best of the lava tube dives available to untrained cavern enthusiasts and tourist divers alike and the longest, the entry is close to the one used for the Cathedral, by Playas Chicas, but off the pier itself, my log entry for the dive reads: “27/10/04 LANZAROTE “Blue Hole” Playa Del Carmen 10’ giant stride from the pier then a choppy swim over & a descent & swim past huge shoals of fish including a large shoal of Barracuda up to about 3’ long. Drop down to 45m at a rock pinnacle & then back up & through the blue hole which is a decent swim through from 30m to 18m full of soft corals. great dive. Air In 250 Out 160 buddy Jim Leigh” I liked this dive most, although each had its high points and was good in different ways, the Blue Hole was a decent length swim through and there was a shaft of brilliant light you could see at the end, where the funnel meets the plateau of the sea bed above you leading back to the beach. I didn’t mention the bubbles escaping from the porous lava rock of the plateau, or the Eel garden we swam over on the way back, perhaps the main of the swim through distracted me, but I do remember these points but did not note them at the time

As ever, this post would be nothing without the pictures, I’d like to thank those who have contributed, Calipso Diving, Manta and especially Matthew Williams (Matt32) for kind permission to use his excellent shots of the Rabat Wreck

Filed Under: Caverns & Caves, Fenton Sub Aqua Club, Other Stuff

GINNIE SPRINGS

May 31, 2020 by Colin Jones Leave a Comment

Its April of 2004, Two years before I had treated the family to a two week holiday in Florida to do the theme parks with our three lads, Lee Lewis & Kai, I had spent a lot of time away diving, weekends at Stoney or the pool in Fenton with trainees, weekday evenings at Denstone pool and occasional night dives on Wednesday evenings at Stoney too……Now these things needed to be done, my wages from JCB were only just covering the bills, if I wanted to keep diving (and that wasn’t really an “option”) then I had to make up the spend somehow, that meant training divers and Deep Blue Diving. It also meant additional pool and classroom hire costs and purchasing and maintaining dive kit, so it was a tight line I was walking, and, like cave diving, if that line gives……well, I had to keep that from happening! All that time taken from Ellie and the boys was only ever partially made up with them using the pools to swim and dive, and sneaking down under the water to “buddy Breathe” on the FSAC club members and Deep Blue Divemaster’s alternate regs, something they loved to do, because Ellie would be scared witless with how long they were underwater, before they would surface half way down the pool laughing their asses off……….. But so much time stolen from a young family takes its toll, the burden of that fell on Ellie, practically bringing the lads up on her own, I was a shit dad in that respect, and I felt it too, I wanted to give something back whenever I could. The 2002 Florida trip was all about the family, we did the parks, Disney and Universal, we did Gator-World, Sea-World, International Drive, Busch Gardens and the Everglades air-boats and the kids loved it, it was an amazing time and a wonderful place, so I was determined to go back again, to give something more if you like…… two years on and I’d squirreled enough away to take the family back and do the whole thing again, but this time I wanted something for myself……just a day I promised Ellie…..at Ginnie Springs!  

Ginnie Springs, Gilchrist County, Florida (Web Photo)

  Now, ever since my un-planned cave dive in Istria in Croatia, (formerly Yugoslavia), during my 7 months tour with NATO there, I had a fascination with caves, and the idea of another look at the dark interiors of those sacred tunnels and caves underwater, where so few mortals go…….. I had read The Darkness Beckons and been fascinated by the descriptions of exploration and preparation for exotic caves with subterranean flooded passages and “sumps” blocking the path of those lesser mortals who would go no further, their passage blocked by the water before them…..and I’d seen the pictures of those breaking Wookey Hollow and Tulum, Wakulla and Ginnie Springs and pushing the boundaries of those systems ever further. One of those I trained at Deep Blue, Rob, who became one of my Divemasters, had started to do some diving with a cave legend, Martyn Farr, and he was diving the sumps of Welsh mines and would eventually go on to an expedition in Russia, featuring in one of Martyn’s articles in Diver Magazine, surrounded by Ice, in a God-forsaken cave under the Steppes, or was it the Urals, I’m not too sure, but it was extreme and ground-breaking……..Now that would not ever be me, I knew that, I am not interested in pushing envelopes and putting together teams to go to the ends of the Earth and see if anything is there, but I was intrigued, I wanted to see more of caverns and caves, to at least get a feel of what that diving was like, Ellie thought I was mad, I didn’t have an argument for that, but she agreed I could steal a day from the family holiday and take a trip to Ginnie to dive  

The Ginnie Springs Dive-Shop & Lodge April 2004

  I had been hearing about Ginnie Springs for years, more so recently as I was diving more and more on Nitrox with IANTD, the CEO Tom Mount was a regular cave diver and Don Shirley, my Nitrox “shaman” often talked about Tom and Kevin Gurr, an acolyte of Tom’s, who ran IANTD UK & Europe. I knew the Florida Aquifer was big, that there were cave dive groups pushing to extend Wakulla springs system and I was hearing more about another new phenomenon (to me) called the “Re-breather”, something allowing these teams to carry out phenomenally long (4 hour) dives in these systems using re-cycled air from their breathing, in a kind of loop, from which Carbon Dioxide was removed and to which Oxygen was added to minimise the gas that was carried by the diver, but extend the dive time to extraordinary lengths….but more on that in another post to come. So the main name I had been hearing was Ginnie springs, quite a distance from the Theme Parks, a good 3 or 4 hour drive, but a place set-up for visiting divers, unlike Wakulla, accessible to people like myself, untrained, tourist divers with a “need to Know” but no commitment to taking a specific route on a cave diving course yet  

The scale of the Florida Aquifer (Web Illustration USCG)

By way of an introduction to Ginnie Springs, Ginnie is a privately owned park located in Gilchrist County, central North Florida, about 6.5 miles from High Springs, USA. Ginnie sits alongside, and encompasses part of the Santa Fe River, to which it is connected. The water is clear and cold and the caverns are, as is usual in Aquifers, carved out of a limestone rock landscape by water erosion resulting in clean sandy bottoms. Ginnie Springs has been privately owned by the Wray family since 1971 and opened in 1976, however it took until the 1990’s, when scuba diving in the USA became more accessible and grew hugely in popularity, (some would say as a result of PADI and the ascendancy of such a widespread common training methodology) to result in the Wray’s opening the springs to the public. Although in the litigation prolific culture of the US and, sadly, due to an increasing number of scuba diver deaths in cave systems, the Wray’s installed an iron grate at the entrance to the main cave system and placed warning signs for divers, the grim nature of them now spread wide in the outside world, and common in most of the USA and the Mexican aquifer of the Yucatan

The sign says it all really (Web Photo Ginnie Springs)

Ginnie Springs is far more than just a diving experience, visitors can swim, snorkel, canoe or Kayak, and “tube” (Think Tractor Tyre innertubes) along the Santa Fe River, nowadays they can also stand up paddleboard and there are various springs visitors can enter and swim in. Ginnie is a source for local bottled spring water, the water of the spring is crystal-clear, and the underlying Limestone geology assures around 100,000 miles of subterranean coverage, providing the drinking water for the whole state and its population. Tragically Nestle was recently granted permission to take over 1.1 million gallons a day from the aquifer that feeds Ginnie, and other nearby springs, sparking a national and perhaps even somewhat global outcry, quite rightly in my personal opinion. The natural balance of this system is delicate and should not be taken lightly, those who dive the caves of Florida keep a keen eye on conditions, they are the state’s first litmus test of the heath of the underground water Florida relies upon

Florida’s Limestone Karst system, rainwater stored naturally in Limestone (Web Image)

THE BALLROOM

When you first set eyes on Ginnie Springs, having signed the waivers and conditions paperwork in the shop, you see the spring is a large, bowl-shaped pool measuring around 30m across and 5m deep. For those kayaking or “Tubing” there is a long run connecting the basin to the Santa Fe River. Ginnie’s main attraction, for those diving her, is the cavern, whose wide, open entrance is found at the bottom of the basin, across from the entry steps. When I visited it was close to mid-day and there were swimmers, snorkelers and even a few on Tubes, already enjoying the powder Blue water and I couldn’t wait to get in, it was a hot day and I was out of the air-conditioned cab of our dive guide Kent’s big Yank Chevrolet truck that had carried our diving kit up from the dive-shop back at Kissimmee  

Ginnie Springs and the Crystal Clear Waters of the Florida Aquifer

  Ginnie’s cavern is among the handful of Florida sites that are considered sufficiently safe to allow divers who lack formal cavern or cave diver training to explore. The steel bars fitted across the entrance to the main cave system are there for a reason, as is the warning sign, divers die in caves, it’s not compulsory, but there is way more than “Sod’s Law” to diving deaths in caves and caverns. The inquisitive nature of the human condition makes most curious as to what lies beneath, add to that long and twisting passages, flooded throughout most of their length, throw in sometimes deceptively fast currents, expect the odd equipment failure, and then consider the light which only penetrates for the first few meters of any cave system and you have most of the reasons divers die in caves……..Of course there is stupidity, venturing beyond your training, light failures, making it almost impossible to regain the cave lines running where others have gone before, should you take your hands off for even an instant….there is carelessness where swimming with the current in a system leads you to over extend your air or gas supply, which you will inevitably use more of, swimming against the current back towards the cave entrance……..and then there is the opportunity to lose yourself, some of these cave systems go for miles, and there are many parallel tunnels, branching off, easy to end up in the wrong one, easy to feel lost and a surge of panic well up increasing the breathing rate and, therefore, the gas consumption. It isn’t surprising that the owners at Ginnie fitted the steel bars at the very back of the Ballroom, where those tempted beyond their training might do themselves harm……It is nice to see though, that divers of all experience levels are allowed to take lights into Ginnie Spring’s Ballroom to explore the cavern. The upper room of the cavern, in the light penetrating area is illuminated by natural light from the entrance. Looking back from this room toward the entrance provides a beautiful view, the cavern’s upper room walls are composed of highly reflective limestone, adding to the natural beauty and throwing reflections off the air-bubbles constantly streaming up towards the cavern roof

Kent gives the dive brief before we get in to dive the Ginnie Ballroom

Our dive guide Kent had driven me up to Ginnie in his big Chevrolet truck, along with the kit for the four of us to dive that day, there were two others joining us at the site itself. I had a great journey up discussing diving, the American way of life, Limey’s and all manner of topics, it was an enjoyable trip. Kent had worked as an independent instructor with the Kissimmee dive-shop for some years now and, as a cave diver, was a natural selection to take a few tourists out for a day in the caverns. Once we had signed a dozen waiver’s and insurance disclaimers, and had the dive brief from Kent, we kitted up under the purpose built sun shades, using the kit tables kindly provided for the purpose by the Ginnie Springs owners…….it was time to dive!   My log book records: “Ginny – Springs Florida USA – A glimpse of the realms of cave diving. The training grounds of the greats – (Sheck) Exley – Palmer – Farr. The cave system starts here but is now grilled shut about 40m back in the cavern where water surges up at 1kt. The cavern is a delight with a squeeze & several off-shoot grotto like areas. Trapped air on the roof reflects like a mirror ball when lit from below – a superb dive with ghosts of greats as buddys – just out of sight!! Air In 250 – Out 150 Buddy Kent”

“….Trapped air on the roof reflects like a mirror ball when lit from below” The Cavern at Ginnie Springs (Web Photo Ginnie Springs)

There is a good descriptive of what can be seen in the cavern on Ginnie’s own web-site, it says: “Moving to the back of the upper room, divers pass through a large opening into the amphitheater-sized area called the “Ballroom.” Although surface light is clearly visible from most places within the Ballroom, divers will want to carry dive lights to see everything there is to see. The Ballroom provides divers with the opportunity to examine many of the unusual geologic formations that are unique to the Floridan Aquifer. The Ballroom’s ceiling contains an excellent example of spongework–a gigantic, limestone Swiss cheese. Midway between floor and ceiling, divers will find evidence of a bedding plane–a distinctive horizontal crack that is crucial to the movement of underground water. At the northwest corner of the Ballroom is a beautifully carved phreatic tube–a perfect example of the most common form of underwater cave formation. Nearby, a larger bedding-plane formation collects air in mercury-like pockets on the ceiling” I couldn’t have put that better myself, hence the quote, the Ginnie web-site is not half bad and whoever wrote it was succinctly descriptive

The Steel Grille at the back of Ginnie Springs Ballroom Cavern (Web Photo)

The Ginnie web-site description goes on to say “At the very back of the Ballroom (a maximum depth of 17m), is a large, welded grate. This grate prevents divers from entering the dangerous, silty and maze-like cave system that lies beyond. Nevertheless, most divers enjoy pulling themselves up to the grate, so that they can experience the “in-your-face” force of the 35 million gallons of water a day that pass through the opening. A large-diameter, heavy duty guideline runs from the back of the Ballroom to the cavern entrance. This helps ensure there is never any doubt as to which way is out” I suspect the description of “…dangerous, silty and maze like cave system….” is a somewhat overly emotive way of reminding those diving the cavern of its potential dangers

Swimming back out towards the steps of the main cavern at Ginnie April 2004

    We had spent almost an hour in the cavern and had a wonderful dive, I had seen all I could having done several circuits around the cavern, and behind the boulders and into the smaller spaces of the various areas of the cavern in its lit, and its darker areas at the back. It was time to get something to eat and drink before we took on the “Devil’s Ear”, which Kent had told us would be our second dive of the day at the dive-brief. After a brief dry-off and something to eat and drink Kent described the next dive at the Devil’s Ear, part of the Devil’s Spring System and home to three separate springs, the aptly named Devil’s Eye, Devil’s Ear and Devil Spring or “Little Devil”, which produce nearly 80 million gallons of water between them daily. Kent explained that, despite our use of dive torches in the cavern, Ginnie Springs enforces a strict no lights rule at the Devil’s Ear, allowing only certified cavern or cave divers to enter the water in any of the Devil’s Spring system while carrying dive lights, which helps prevent non cave trained divers from entering an area where lack of training, or experience could get them in trouble

The Devil’s Ear showing the path into the Santa Fe River between the trees (Web Photo Ginnie Springs)

  The Devil’s Spring, or “Little” Devil, is a meter plus fracture at the head of the Devil’s Spring System run. Around 17m long it is almost as deep, Ginnie’s web-site puts it beautifully saying “Divers who descend to the bottom of this crack will be rewarded with a breath-taking view as they look skyward, even from the very bottom, it is not unusual to look up through the clear water and be able to count the leaves on the trees overhead. Devil’s Eye is a round opening, 20 feet across and equally deep. At the bottom is the entrance to a small, intricately decorated cavern. Certified divers may enter the cavern and explore up to the limit of what they can see, using available sunlight” and I wouldn’t disagree with one word! Kent took us a little further into the fields and trees surrounding the dive shop and lodge and on to another kitting up area, smaller than that of the Cavern

“….. beautifully constructed wooden stairs into the water making entry easy…” (Web Photo Ginnie Springs)

The dive took place in the late afternoon and there were, again, beautifully constructed wooden stairs into the water making entry easy, my dive log describes our second dive at Ginnie springs: “Ginny Springs – Florida – USA The Devil’s ear – named as the pool in the Santa Fe river (tributary) where you enter is (ear shaped) then a sharp descent in a very narrow crack with currents at 1-1.5Kt which are impossible to fin against but fun to try. The famous “Reaper” warning is here. After that we swam the Santa Fe & back up into Ginny a magic dive. Air In 230 Out 150 Buddy Kent”. Now Kent had warned us we could encounter ‘Gators in the river swim following our 15 minutes or so in the opening to the Devil’s Ear in the dive briefing. I could see it may be an issue as the water in the river swim took on a beautiful bright Green hue, something to do with the vegetation in the swampy areas around Ginnie, the levels of Tannin, the colouring in some Scotch Whisky’s, and the entirely different flow characteristics I suppose

“…….the water in the river swim took on a beautiful bright Green hue…” The Santa Fe River (Web Photo Ginnie Springs)

  Ginnie springs describe the Devil’s ear as “…..a canyon-like opening located where the Devil Spring run joins the Santa Fe River. At the bottom of this opening, water gushes from a cave opening with nearly fire-hydrant-like force. Although the water in the Devil’s Ear basin is generally crystal clear, it is common for it to be covered with a thin layer of tannin-stained river water. This phenomenon enables divers to sit in the basin’s clear water and look up at the sun and trees through a unique, stained-glass effect created by the river water”

  Leaving Ginnie later in the afternoon often means you are not alone (Web Photo Ginnie Springs)

We spent almost an hour between the dive in the ear and the swim up the river back into the cavern sump, it was a wonderful day and I had loved every minute of it. Whilst my first ever cave dive had been unplanned, and at the mercy of those I was diving with, and required a level of trust in them to return me to the surface safely afterwards…the two dives at Ginnie Springs had been completely different, planned and briefed well and something I was the instigator of, I loved both dives and, if I could, I would have asked Kent to take me further into the system to see a little more, would he have done so…… I doubt it, but I had enjoyed the day so much I’d have definitely asked!

Filed Under: Caverns & Caves

Caverns & Caves

November 10, 2019 by Colin Jones Leave a Comment

  I should start this with the due-Diligence piece really, so here goes, Caves and Caverns are unique and beautiful environments, they often see so few visitors as to be considered “pristine” environments. Those environments, especially caves, present very unique challenges and, without putting too dramatic an implication on this, they can easily become fatal for those who do not embark into their depths with healthy respect and specific training. So please do not take these pieces as encouragement to cavern or cave dive, if this kind of thing is an attraction, take the time to undertake proper training before you push into another world, that’s not how things started for me, however it SHOULD be how it starts for you………The dangers are well described elsewhere, in diving text books and tales of adventure by people like Martyn Farr,  Phil Short and Richie Stevens, legends within the tight knit cave diving fraternity, check out Martyn’s book “THE DARKNESS BECKONS” which is practically the cave diving “standard” and which I loved! 

Martyn Farr’s brilliant book “The Darkness Beckons” (Web Photo)

  My own cavern & cave adventures started in Croatia (26/09/1992), completely by accident, and without any real understanding of what I was about to do. This was not a planned event for me, I had been diving with a couple of Croats, Igor & Jellicho, over the last couple of months as part of a UN recreational diving programme. I had been asked to set-up the programme by my boss, WO1 Chris Cjaia, for those of us from the British Army serving in what had recently been “Yugoslavia”, as a provision of recreational activity for R&R (as the briefing from HQ said we would not be allowed out of country (back home) whilst on the 6 month tour). We were in “Former Yugoslavia” as part of the UN forces in “UNPROFOR” a multi-national undertaking, supposedly as a physical, but non-combative, barrier between the opposing forces of Croatia and Serbia following some brutal, if localised, confrontations in places like Vukovar and Mostar. This was the UN  desperately trying to stop the country descending into self destruction following the outbreak of hostilities, as Croatia announced its intentions of state-hood (in the vacuum after Tito’s death, when it was clear he left no obvious successor), and meant the far richer republic of Croatia, with it’s burgeoning coastal tourist industry, had a perfect opportunity to ditch the largely peasant based farming economy of Serbia, and the rest of the Six republics (Bosnia, Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro, and Slovenia) that had been forced to become “Yugoslavia” following WWII, and the Yalta conference, where the victorious Allies carved up what had been Nazi, axis alliance countries…… 

Split Port, Croatia, arriving with the Foden “wrecker” as UN support 1992

  So, I am in Pula on the Istrian peninsula of Croatia and I am looking for a suitable outfit to support the Open Water phase of a planned BSAC Novice 1 and 2 qualification “in theatre” so those on this tour get an opportunity to do something different and take some of the pressure off, whilst serving in such a conflict, without being able to get back to the UK for R&R in the usual manner. This means searching out anyone still willing to operate in an economy that, in real terms, is “tanking”……. Chris Cjaia gave me a simple brief, go coastal, find someone who is still operating, check them out and offer them some would-be divers……….How could I refuse? As is often the case in such circumstances, there is always someone who can see opportunity…… even if the rest of the world has gone to Hell in a handcart locally! Step-in Vlado and his business partner Slavko, who ran Murgons dive centre in easier times along with their dive guides Igor and Jellicho……… 

This time it’s a UN company Car……….

  So, I have contacts, I have a viable dive centre with reasonably modern dive equipment, now to try some diving…..just to ensure everything is “Kosher” you understand…… I have had the go-ahead from our local Officer in Charge (OiC), Captain Nick Stansfield, and have taken a couple of local dives, which I will detail in another thread on here, and, oddly, Igor says “You’ll need a good torch for this next dive Colin”….unusual, as its daylight, in the Adriatic sea and, so far, the viz has been Twenty or Thirty metres or better…..I’m intrigued!  Bear in mind this is my Fourth dive with Jelicho and Igor over a period of Four months and I have already put several UK forces trainees through their Novice 1 and 2 open water skills in the bay at Punta Verudella successfully. It seems that Igor and Jellicho have come to the conclusion I’m alright, and an OK diver, and that means I’m ready to be shown their local jewel……. 

Heading out from Murgons Dive Quay, Punta Verudella Pula

  It doesn’t take much imagination, considering the title of this piece, to figure out what comes next, an intriguing need for “a good torch”, the fact I’d previously expressed a love for some winding swim-through’s (different piece, yet to come…..) that we’d carried out earlier in the year, and Igor with what could only be called a “shit-eating grin” on his face telling me to “trust me”, but as time had passed following that dive, and knowing that there were deeper dives available locally which might warrant a torch, I could be forgiven for being a little clueless…… So when Jellicho said “we’re taking you to see the washing machine…” I just couldn’t figure out what was going on….truly!  The inflatable trip out wasn’t long, perhaps 15 or so minutes until we slowed and prepped to enter, then a backward splash into the beautifully warm Adriatic, everyone OK…..fine, then the descent, we were a bit closer to the headland than we had been before, and I remember wondering what the lads had in store, but after a 10 minute swim along the face of the rocky outcrops we had moored next to, a gaping hole showed in front of me and I had a decision to make……Did I trust Igor and Jellicho enough to follow them into what was, quite obviously, a cave……… sitting at somewhere between 15 and 20m the entrance was wide, this wouldn’t be a squeeze, but I could see why they had called it the washing machine! The Adriatic is not a large sea, it sits between Italy and Croatia, it is strategically important as evidenced by campaigns by both sides of two conflicts who sought to wrest control from both the local populous and from each other, but it isn’t often an angry sea, it’s tidal range being somewhere round a meter (compared to some areas of the UK with 8m range.)….But you could see the surge into this cave, the sea crashing up and causing the gaping mouth to froth and millions of bubbles form like an angry aquarium aerator going crazy….. I knew I shouldn’t enter, I wasn’t trained to cave dive, but I trusted Igor and Jellicho, they weren’t going to take me anywhere more life-threatening than diving itself was and I bit the bullet and followed………..  

Somewhere in Istria there is a hidden cave……..called the washing machine!

  I switched on the torch and it lit up well, I don’t know if it was Igor or Jellicho that led us in, but the surge was amazing and yes, I could believe I was in a washing machine as the bubbles were all around, only added to by our exhaled air, as we pushed through the yawning cave mouth and started to make our way down the tunnel beyond the cave entrance. The swim got easier within 10m or so and the surge was obviously calmed a little as the tunnel widened as we swam further in. There was nothing outside our torch beams as we swam on, but I could make out disturbance up ahead and we were getting shallower and shallower….. It was  an amazing feeling to me to haul up onto what was, effectively, a hidden, subterranean  beach inside the Limestone headlands of Istria. We crawled carefully up the small pebble beach and lay back on our cylinders, just out of the water, to listen to the gentle waves lapping the pebble beach and watched as Jellicho lit the surrounding caver with his torch. This was something truly beautiful, not full of Stalagmites or Stalactites but a large cavern, under water, with a pebble beach……like every Atlantis movie you ever saw, or 20000 leagues beneath the Sea……wonderful to see and you imagined, just out of sight, a winding staircase up to a hidden exit into some castle or cave system long forgotten by all but a few…..   The swim out was brilliant too, the tunnel being between 30 and 50m or so long, the re-entry to the water surreal as we made our way, by torchlight, towards an ever bigger bright Blue circle that marked the caves exit, and another rinse cycle, before we could ascend to the waiting inflatable and the inevitable round of Shit-Eating grins……and mine was…..by far the broadest of them all…….epic! 

Filed Under: Caverns & Caves

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