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November 6, 2021 by Colin Jones

The Sound of Mull

Christmas 1999 had been a busy time for me with the usual family and work commitments and a still new business to run with divers to train. Stoney Cove, despite what most seem to think, being a fairly large body of water, keeps its summer temperature well beyond the summer months and although many divers tend to hibernate over the October/November into March period, I always enjoyed the thinning car-park and the improving visibility that the onset of winter brought. From late October, early November you began to see mist on the water surface and the summer algae blooms die off, many times I have looked up from the Hydro-Box and seen divers decompressing on the line at 6m, and the water is still reasonably warm into late November often early December. The Sea around the UK is similar, we have always enjoyed the benefits of the Gulf Stream around our shores and temperatures remain around 6-8’ so there is always a dive to be had!

Stoney Cove in Autumn Sunshine & Mist (Web Photo: Courtesy Stoney Cove)

Now there is always an opportunity to extend the day at Stoney Cove, the excellent Nemo’s bar has been a refuge from colder or rainy days for as long as I have been diving there, and that is from 2000 or so. It isn’t just the Coffee’s and bacon rolls available at the café window whilst still in dive kit, but afterwards in the restaurant & bar itself, where many diving plans come together, and this was one of those times. November of 1998 I had been training a bunch of divers brought to me by a local (Stafford) Landlord, Aaron Durber, friends of his from his pub, they were all characters and I had a great time with them, they were one of those groups where they took the training seriously, but life itself with a pinch of salt, a little like younger versions of me, in fact probably too much like younger versions of me if I am honest, but we got to chatting on the final weekend of their qualification as Advanced Open Water (AoW) divers, “what comes next” kind of thing…….

Christmas at Stoney Cove, Understated but Very Welcoming

I asked what they were looking to do and the usual kind of response came back, well we want to get some sea diving in, real diving not just a quarry….you know a bit of adventure… Now, perhaps it’s the BSAC origins but I have always preached a softly softly approach to those I train, I have seen far too many divers “badge collecting” by following one course immediately with another, whilst some can take that in their stride, others shouldn’t…….I did not have the same feeling about Aaron and his friends, they had all done very well with the training and were indeed taking things in their stride, so I asked what they were looking for, just sea diving or perhaps a little more of an adventure, after all I could take them shore diving off Anglesey if it was just the sea they were looking to dive…..It turned out they were up for a bit more of a trip than that and I promised to come up with something interesting, and a little further from home than Anglesey, not that there is anything wrong with Anglesey, just it was a little too close, and the diving there perhaps a little less popular in the dive magazines they were avidly reading whilst taking their AoW course it seems…….

September of 1998 and “Party of Durber” finishes their Open Water Course in Style!

I had wanted to dive Scotland again since the last Tidworth SAC exped to the Kyle of Lochalsh and my dives on the Port Napier, there was no one at that time taking divers out to the Port Napier, it was mainly local BSAC Clubs visiting or the Balmacara House Military Divers getting to her, and trying to plan diving in the Kyle area seemed impossible at the time, but there was the Sound of Mull! It turned out there were at least some operators doing dive trips to Mull and the surrounding area, now who had what I needed in terms of Boat, accommodation, meals etc local to Mull? It turned out, with a little research on the “net”, (a growing source of wonder to me at that time, rather than the ubiquitous “go-to” it has become in all our lives over the few short years from the 90’s to today…) that there were several options locally

David Ainsley’s Porpoise Dive Charters Flyer 1998

  I managed to whittle down the small list of potential operators to one….I had been impressed by David Ainsley, a BSAC First Class Diver, of Porpoise Dive Charters, when I phoned and spoke to him about a trip. David not only had a sturdy and reliable boat, an Atlantic Offshore 105 called “Porpoise”, but was a well recommended and locally known skipper, with a marine biology background and a love of the area second to none. David spent time asking what we wanted, what level of qualification the team would have and what experience, as well as asking what we wanted to see when we were there, it helped that David also had a spacious cottage we could hire for the long weekend I was planning, I had found what I was looking for and we penciled in the weekend of 31st January to 01st Feb 1998 and decided we would drive up on the Friday afternoon after work and then dive the Sound of Mull Saturday, with a couple of more dives local to Balvicar on the Sunday to avoid a longer motor back before the long drive home

Seil Bay Holiday Cottages (Web Photo: Courtesy seilholidaycottages.co.uk)

Those were the days of making things happen, even if the timings were tight and the drive back down from Scotland meant a killer week back at work from the Monday, who cared, this would be diving in Scotland and it came with a price we were all willing to pay! I remember the drive up in the Van as being fun, some of Aaron’s party were with us and I had Ellie & the Kids with me so they could enjoy a bit of a break too, all in all the trip up went faster than I expected it, but then that is always the way looking back on things! When we arrived we were pleasantly surprised at the accommodation, Seil Bay Holiday Cottages were set on the banks of the Loch with a grass frontage and views to die for

The View from Seil Cottages (Web Photo: Courtesy seilholidaycottages.co.uk)

Whilst Ellie and the boys spent the morning playing on the lawns and in the rock pools of the Loch we kitted up the Porpoise and made the trip to the Sound of Mull, a fair journey out, but one where David kept us entertained with sightings of Sea Eagles and local bird life and descriptions of the marine biology local to the area. We passed Corryvreckan on the way out, the whirlpool not in evidence at the time, but a fair wall of water had to be surmounted to get out of the narrow straight there, making it interesting for us all. I was delighted to see a pair of Sea Eagles soaring off to our Starboard side during the trip out, they were some way off in the distance, but the White of their tails meant you could still make out they were Sea Eagles and David Confirmed it, knowing the nesting sites and patrol areas of the local birds. I had only ever seen one other Eagle, a Golden Eagle, on a school trip to Grizebeck years beforehand, perilously rare at the time in England, one of only 3 pairs I was told at the time, so it was thrilling to know these majestic hawks were making a determined come-back in our lands, albeit the remotest of areas! The photo I have used to show how majestic these birds are is a stunner, I couldn’t identify which of two photographers took it (Carol Bennetto or Sindri Skulason) as the site set-up isn’t clear, however it is a stunning shot of one of the actual Mull birds

One of The Isle of Mull Sea Eagles (Web Photo: Courtesy mullbirds.com)

We dived the Sound of Mull on the Saturday morning, diving the wreck of the Rondo first, there is a more thorough look at Rondo written up elsewhere on this site, but the little Red Log records: “31 01 98 SOUND OF MULL OBAN RONDO Rondo holed up in bad weather in 1935 and in a real foul patch broke her anchor chain & drifted down the Sound of Mull till hitting rocks & going down. She lies stern up and nearly vertical with the rudder mount @ 6m for ideal deco. There’s not much growth on her (but this was winter) and the hull is bare & easily accessible she was a steam cargo vessel & would bare another dive. Best to go deep then slowly take the rest in” After a surface interval David took us off to dive a Wall off Easdale, my log recalls: “31/01/98 Hard Boat “Porpoise” Easdale Scotland viz 4m down a wall for a look round Kelp & some Starfish & Anemone Air In 150 Out 50 Buddy Gus” a prosaic description of the dive, which, like all Scottish wall-dives, more or less, are full of interesting sea life from Spider Crab and Anemones to Jelly-Fish and often dozens of fish, but even then I think I knew my diving was just a bit of fun until I was in or around a wreck, the description of the Rondo dive is a little more descriptive but even that is clipped down to brevity…..I had been told I would fill a log-book quickly if I waxed lyrical about each dive, and it seems I took that advice from Chuck Russett JSADC’s Diving Officer pretty seriously!

Rondo’s Rudder & Anemones (Web Photo: Courtesy Bob Anderson of Halton Charters Stromness)

Our next dive on Sunday morning February 01st 1998 and David was taking us out to see the wildlife, specifically hunting Conger, he had cultivated a relationship with a couple of Conger locally over the years and was keen for us to see if they were about, my log book is again a little short of wonder but succinct! “32/01/98 AM HARDBOAT “PORPOISE” Conger Reef in search of friendly Conger in a cleft at 20m & up but they must have been deeper Viz 5-6m 10’c OK dive Air In 230 Out 180 Buddy Col W” It was another of those dives, interesting but not capturing my imagination, the reef we had been on was covered in life, Anemone’s, Spider Crabs, Starfish and Fan-Worms a myriad of life and a wonderful site, the dives were interesting and Aaron and his mates were lapping them up too! Our last dive before we had to pack-up and head back South was a drift dive and my Green Navy Log recalls: “….DRIFT DIVE “MV PORPOISE” On the return from Conger Reef, down a wall to large lumps of rock, very pretty anemones & dead man’s then in to the 3 knot drift between 2 islands – great fun fast! Viz 10m plus 10’c Air In 180 Out 120 Buddy Col. W.”

Wall Dive View at The Garvellachs (Web Photo: Courtesy #Garvellachs Twitter)

I recall all the dives were similar to those I had carried out on the Tidworth SAC dive expedition to Skye, there was a high degree of similarity to the underwater terrain, rock walls, Plumrose Anemones, Dead-Man’s fingers and kelp, lots of smaller creatures kicking around, Spider Crabs, juvenile Wrasse, Jellies, a proliferation of life if you like, but I had seen many similar sites and there was nothing “remarkable” so to speak, even the wall and drift dives were great dives…… “but”…….. and it was a big “but”, I was becoming more and more convinced that diving around the UK was interesting, but that wreck diving was the real reason I was underwater, the things I was seeing on rock walls and the sea-bed were far more concentrated in or on  a shipwreck, even if the wreck was well dispersed, things hid everywhere on and around wrecks, but, given the vast topography underwater at any particular dive-site….they were far harder to find in any real concentration, and plenty of dives were really short on something to look at unless rocks & kelp was your thing!

Porpoise, Sound of Mull (Photo: Courtesy Jason Harrison)

Filed Under: Fenton Sub Aqua Club

The Sound of Mull

October 3, 2021 by Colin Jones

SS Rondo 

SS Rondo, Aground on Dearg Sgeir, January 1935 (Web Photo: Courtesy scottishshipwrecks.com)

SS Rondo was an American built steam cargo ship launched in 1917. She was built by Tampa Shipbuilding & Dry-dock Company of Florida, for the British government, under the name “War Wonder” but during construction her name was changed to Lithopolis, perhaps as the First World War ended before she could be completed. Lithopolis entered service for the US Shipping Board and was eventually sold to various Norwegian companies, in 1930 as the “Laurie”, finally becoming the Rondo in 1934

Tampa Shipbuilding & Dry Dock Company, Lithopolis Under Construction 1917 (Web Photo: Courtesy RISD USA)

Tampa Shipbuilding & Dry Dock Company operated from 1917 to 1948 in Tampa, Florida. It was also known as Tampa Shipbuilding and TASCO. The company took over an existing shipyard run by Tampa Foundry & Machine Co. which had been founded in 1892, and incorporated in 1905, and which had got into shipbuilding with the award of the contract for a passenger ship in 1916. It built two ships the initial passenger ship Poughkeepsie in 1916, and the War Wonder in 1917, before the end of World War I (WWI) in November of 1918

SS Rondo Specifications (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

The vessel seen close to completion on the slip alongside the War Wonder at the Tampa Shipbuilding & Dry Dock Company in 1918 above is the SS Everglades, This is what the War Wonder would have ended up like when she was launched had WWI lasted but a few months longer. Dazzle Paint was the brainchild of Norman Wilkinson and likely taken or heavily influenced by the work of Abbot Thayer in his 1909 book “Concealing Coloration in the Animal Kingdom” which described camouflage in the wild as a way to conceal or disrupt

Dazzle Paint Pattern SS Everglades 1918 (Web Photo: Courtesy RISD USA)

Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) in the USA holds an archive of ship designs and a multitude of the Dazzle Designs, in their slide-set presentation of the collection they note: (Covert. C & Petraits. E: “Dazzle Prints: Digitizing a Large Format Collection” Fleet Library @ RISD. On-line resource: scalabledigital.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/dazzle.pdf Accessed 29/09/21) “Dazzle is disruptive camouflage (think of a zebra). Military camouflage was developed in World War I by French artists. Ships were hard to camouflage against U-boats because the sea and sky were always changing and of the smoke they produced. Norman Wilkinson, a marine painter who was in the Royal Navy is credited with being the first to developed dazzle camouflage for ships. The Royal Navy allowed him to test his idea. When the test went well Wilkinson was told to proceed, however, he was given no office space. So he went to his alma mater the Royal Academy and was given a classroom. Wilkinson hired Vorticist Edward Wadsworth, to be a port officer in Liverpool, England and oversee the painting of dazzle ships. In 1918 Wilkinson came to United States to share his dazzle plans. 1,000 plans were developed through this partnership” The SS Everglades is noted as the first US vessel ever delivered pre-camouflaged, it makes it almost shame the Lithopolis was not in time to have the same livery……..

TASCO Shipyard c1943 (Web Illustration: Origin Unknown)

The Tampa Shipbuilding & Dry Dock Company ownership and function changed to that of a repair yard before U.S. involvement in World War II, 1942 (the shipyard had been mired in a major financial crisis), as one of the merchant shipbuilders selected for the USMC’s pre-war long-range shipbuilding program. It went back to shipbuilding during WWII, employing 16,000 workers, and at its height of operation, was the largest employer in Tampa.  Shortly after starting work on its initial USMC contract, however, it again got into financial difficulties and was sold to George B. Howell, who renamed it Tampa Shipbuilding Company, or TASCO  the site is now occupied by Gulf Marine Repair

(Web Illustration: Table Courtesy http://shipbuildinghistory.com/shipyards/large/tasco.htm)

The Rondo had been ordered through the Cunard Steamship Company to avoid contravening America’s “neutral” status in what was to become the last months of World War 1.  This ended up an unnecessary artifice as, even before she was complete, America entered the war and such disguise became pointless.  As Lithopolis she did not complete fitting out till September 1918, missing any closing actions of the war. It may seem somewhat ridiculous to have employed such subterfuge in order to procure ships from the US, it becomes far less so when “neutrality” can be seen objectively. Germany knew the USA, despite being neutral, had maintained favorable trade links with Great Britain and her allies throughout the War, in fact Germany also traded with the USA right up until her entry into the war on the side of Britain. It was not that either nation could or should challenge the USA’s neutrality as such, it was the diplomatic nature of the trading between each side which could have become an international incident should either of the combatants decided to carry the acts of aggression across the Atlantic to the US coastline

US Shipping Register 1918, Lithopolis 7th down (Web Photo: Unknown Origin)

German U Boats had made the crossing several times by 1917, it was a very real possibility that hostilities could have occurred between Great Britain and Germany in sight of the shores of New York. In a paper to the US Congress in December of 1919, just a year after the war ended, Captain C.C. Marsh Officer in Charge of the US Navy Department Historical Section (Marsh. C.C. “German Submarine Activities on the Atlantic Coast of the United States and Canada” Dec 12th 1919) wrote: “It is not believed necessary to go into the discussion based on opinions or surmises during the early years of the war in Europe as to whether or not an attack by the Germans would be made on the American coast. Therefore, the operations herein described are those which actually took place in the year 1918, with a description of the preliminary cruises made by the Deutschland and the U-53 in the year 1916”. The paper goes on to explore the very real journeys of German U Boats to and from US ports and to postulate on the likelihood of incidents between British and German navies accordingly

The Submarine Deutschland in USA Waters 1916 (Web Photo: Courtesy US Navy Department)

Captain Marsh’s piece occasionally shows a level of expectation arising from the nature of the German U Boat’s various nefarious visits: “…….Of course, it must remain a matter, more or less, of conjecture as to what was actually the object of the cruises made by the Deutschland in 1916. Apparently, they were both purely commercial voyages. The voyage of the U-53 assumes more a character of a path-finding expedition. This vessel was a strictly combative vessel. It is interesting to note that on the arrival of this vessel at Newport, the commanding officer stated to the American submarine that he did not need or want a pilot to enter Newport, and that he wanted no supplies or provisions or materials of any kind….” I think it fair to deduce that Captain Marsh had anticipated, if not expected, incidents of likely breach of the neutrality of US waters….but they never actually occurred

The Submarine U53 in Newport 1916 (Web Photo: Courtesy US Navy Department)

Although it was anticipated War Wonder would be launched into a global conflict the like of which the world had not seen before, she actually took no part in war as the Lithopolis, or later as the Laurie, and she continued to carry out whatever duties her Norwegian owners deemed expedient in the post war years right up until, as the Laurie, in 1934 her name was change to the Rondo. In January 1935 the Rondo, was in Glasgow and left for Dunstan, in ballast, due to pick up a cargo in Northumberland for delivery into Oslo. As she sailed into the Sound of Mull on the 25th of January the weather had gone from bad to appalling, Rondo’s master made the decision to anchor in Aros Bay, near Tobermory, for shelter and to sit out a blinding snowstorm.  Believing themselves secured and turning in for the evening, still in the midst of the storm conditions, things took a turn for the worse for Rondo and her crew. Straining against the storm their anchor chain parted and Rondo began drifting down the Sound at the mercy of winds and tide.  The Rondo was swept down the sound of Mull and came to rest hard against Dearg Sgeir (Red Skerry, or Red Rocks in Gaelic) near Eileanan Glas, adjacent to the lighthouse placed on the pinnacle to warn of the dangers of the exposed rock outcrop to passing ships

SS Rondo Stranded on Dearg Sgeir, Sound of Mull 1935 (Web Photo: Courtesy scottishshipwrecks.com)

Attempts were made to float Rondo off Dearg Sgeir in the subsequent weeks but whatever was tried was to no avail. It became obvious she would not readily float free and the decision was made to strip out whatever could be readily removed to improve the chances of salvaging her. Whilst the attempt was made Rondo remained controversial, a fire breaking out amongst the wood paneling still aboard having been stripped for removal. It was during this phase of her attempted salvage that things went distinctly sideways. With the lightening of her hull on the rocks, and the movement of the tides against her hull, Rondo finally succumbed to her fate and sank down the submerged rock face of Dear Sgeir until all but her stern post was underwater, eventually she rested, fully submerged, just 10m or so from the surface her bow at 50m and her rudder at around 10 depending on the tide

The Rudder & Post of Rondo (Web Photo: Courtesy Mike Clark)

My dive on the Rondo was as part of the first FSAC UK dive Exped, I had been in touch with David Ainsley and booked a party into his accommodation on Seil on the West Coast of Scotland not far from Oban, and places aboard his boat Porpoise, an Atlantic Offshore 105 of which he was rightly very proud, and which was a flawless dive platform during our bank holiday weekend trip to Ardmucknish, Corryveckan and the Sound of Mull. I had Darren & Jason with me as Divemaster’s and a party of recently trained Advanced Open Water Divers who had been co-opted into accompanying Aaron Durber, a local & colourful Stafford Landlord, through Open Water Diver and on into the ocean…….

Atlantic Offshore 105 Deck Space, Ideal Dive Platform (Web Photo: Courtesy FAFB)

Only Rondo’s shell remains now, you can swim down inside the hull, sheltered from most of a running tide for most of her length, stern to bow, more broken wreckage lies beyond 30 metres and down to the crushed bow at 50 metres. On the return journey there is a choice at various points to swim the outside or stay within the hull. I dived Rondo in 1998 on the first FSAC Scottish dive trip and my little Red Wreck book records: “31/01/98 Sound of Mull, Oban RONDO Rondo holed up in bad weather in Mull and in a real foul patch broke her anchor chain & drifted down the Sound of Mull till hitting rocks and going down. She lies stern up and nearly vertical with the rudder mount @ 6m for ideal deco. There’s not much growth on her (but this was winter) and the hull is bare & easily accessible she was a steam cargo vessel & would bare another dive. Best to go deep then slowly take the rest in Twin 7’s 300 bar independent 2 x Poseidon’s Buddy Colin Woodall”

Side Scan Sonar of Rondo (Web Photo: Courtesy ADUS)

 I recall the dive being in good viz throughout and the feeling our descent required more than my normal “dump n drop” technique, a sort of free-fall I’d got used to and enjoyed, this was not the time or place despite the viz and I had Colin with me, we both needed to avoid the exposed pieces of potentially dangerous wreckage, whilst giving each other enough space too. It was an enjoyable dive which we took down to around 25m before turning the dive and slowly ascending back through the sparse wreckage we had dropped past, I don’t recall much in the way of sea life either, there was plenty of kelp and weed, Plumrose Anemones etc, but Rondo was an interesting dive for the way she rested, one of few near vertical wrecks I have dived to this day but I had been warned most of the gear and machinery had been salvaged before she sank and the hull was fairly bare. One of the most interesting wrecks in the sound of Mull though, if only for her aspect and the chance for the adventurous to dive to 50m out of the flow of the sound……

The Sound of Mull (Web Photo: Courtesy Ordnance Survey)

Rondo & The Sound of Mull are another of those locations that I’d love another shot at….perhaps one day!

Filed Under: The Wrecks

The Baron Gautsch

September 26, 2021 by Colin Jones

Pula, Croatia 2015

Baron Gautsch Docked in Pula, Alighting and Boarding Passengers (Web Photo: Courtesy @BaronGautschRovinj)

The Baron Gautsch of the Osterreichischer Lloyd Line, of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was named after the former Austrian Prime Minister and Interior Minister Paul Gautsch von Frankenthurn. Baron Gautsch and her two sister ships, the Prinz Hohenlohe launched in October 1908, and Baron Bruck launched in the summer of 1913, home port was Trieste, they were essentially, albeit small by today’s standards, luxury liners, with both First, second and General (3rd) Class travel options. The Baron Gautsch was built by Gourlay Brothers & Co. Ltd in their Dundee shipyard, Scotland

Baron Gautsch at Gourlay Brothers Yard on the Slip (Web Photo: Unattributable, Unknown Origin)

The vessel was beautifully built and appointed, however, it was not without its issues from launch. In 1905 Gourlay Brothers had re-fitted their shipyard in order to keep pace with technology, it had been an expensive outlay, in 1906, Gourlay’s had their best ever year financially, but with a drop off in orders in 1907, a single ship (Ulimaroa) being most of her output, in 1908 the order book looked little better. The Ulimaroa ran aground during trials and had to be dry-docked for inspection, an expensive undertaking, and the Baron Gautsch (Lythe S.G.E “Gourlays of Dundee, the rise and fall of a Scottish shipbuilding firm” P. 17, para 3. Merton Hall 1881)  “…. became the subject of such sharp exchanges about delays in delivery and shortcomings in engine performance that Gourlays were involved in the heavy cost of modifying her engines at Trieste, her home port…”. Gourlay’s were late finishing her and delivery was late to the customer, even worse was to come, following her sea-trials the engines‘ output was considered too low, and it fell to Gourlay’s to make modifications to the boilers and improve engine performance at the ship’s home port, Trieste. It is no surprise that the associated expenses for these repairs and modifications were not expected, Gourlay Bros completed them but shortly after that declared bankruptcy

Gourlay Brother’s Shipyard Dundee (Web Illustration: Courtesy Grace’s Guide)

All three of the liners, Baron Gautsch and her sisterships, the Prinz Hohenlohe, and the Baron Bruck, were built for what was at the time known as “The Dalmatian Express Line”, a route that went south of the Austrian Riviera, along the Croatian coast of Istria and Dalmatia. The maiden voyage of the Baron Gautsch was the 16th June 1908 carrying commuters, soldiers moving between Austria and Hungary for duty & service along with their families, businessmen and holiday travelers making the return journey after visiting the popular seaside resorts of the Adriatic

Paul Gautsch, after whom the Baron Gautsch was named, was born in a Vienna suburb, Döbling, in Austria, on the 26th February of 1851 when the Austro Hungarian Empire was at its peak, and controlled most of central Europe. Gautsch, the son of a civil servant, attended the Theresianum boarding school and went on to study law at the University of Vienna, eventually achieving the highest possible honor for the country’s best students, the “Promotio sub auspiciis Praesidentis”  he began a career in the Austrian Ministry of Education. On 5th November 1885 Emperor Franz Joseph 1st appointed him Minister of Education in the second cabinet of Minister-President Eduard Taaffe. Clearly an exceptional politician, Gautsch was appointed “Minister-President” (Prime Minister) of Austria Hungary on 30 November 1897, a position he held 3 times before retiring in 1911, Gautsch remained politically active, and a peer of the Austrian House of Lords (The “Herrenhaus”), and was a continual confidant of Emperor Franz Joseph until his death in the spring of 1918

Baron Paul Gautsch von Frankenthurn (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

Osterreichischer Lloyd Line was founded in 1833 by Lloyd Karl Ludwig Freiherr von Bruck, a British citizen, it was the first large steamship company on the Adriatic, and based out of Trieste in Italy. In 1836, the company had established a “Department for steamship navigation” in addition to the extant “Department for maritime trade reports”, thereby officially founding the Osterreichischer Lloyd Steamship Company. In 1842, Emperor Franz Ferdinand honoured the company by permitting their vessels to fly the Austrian Flag, and its officers and sailors to adopt Austrian Naval Uniforms. In 1849, the company launched its flagship, “Vorwarts” (Forward), the name becoming the company motto

Österreichischer Lloyd Poster c1890 (Web Photo: Courtesy Levantineheritage.com)

  When the Suez Canal opened in 1869 Osterreichischer Lloyd opened up routes to the Far East, Singapore and Hong Kong, pressuring the trade Blue Funnel had enjoyed, almost exclusively before that time, with its improved fast steamers and fuel economy around the Cape. Routes were also opened to Mumbai and Columbo and in 1907 the company moved headquarters to Vienna, Austria’s capital, and at that point opened a line to Shanghai. By 1914 at the outbreak of World War 1 Osterreichischer Lloyd was the premier Austro-Hungarian shipping line, it would survive the war, but not the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, finally being handed over to the Italians in 1919, the line was re-named Lloyd Triestino until 2006, it survives to this day as Italia Marittima

Lloyd Triestino, Österreichischer Lloyd between 1919 and 2006 (Web Photo: Courtesy masterposters.com)

The Baron Gautsch (and her two sister ships), described in the Neue Freie Presse of Vienna (Friday, 14 August 1914. p.10 “Untergang des Floyddampfers ,,Baron Gautsch” ) as “a new, and modern member of the Lloyd Fleet” the report goes on to detail her intended routes, Trieste-Cattaro and Trieste-Corfu, and her “appointments”: 87 first class cabins, 40 second class cabins,  describing the vessel as “…..one of the best ships of the Dalmatian Line” with an interior design fulfilling  the most modern requirements

The August 14th New Free Press 1914 Baron Gautsch (Courtesy: Austrian National Library, Vienna)

The Baron Gautsch had two large dining rooms, one for first class passengers and a second for her other passengers. The walls of the first class dining room had been covered entirely in wood paneling, with each panel featuring pictures. Above the dining room was a music salon, decorated in yellow brocaded silk, a smoking and gents’ room, including a small coffee bar, was adjacent, and finally there were 150 third class passenger accommodations

Baron Gautsch, Interior Detail, the “Small Coffee Bar” (Web Photo: Courtesy P Ondra)
The Dining Room Baron Gautsch (Web Photo: Courtesy tauchparadies-kroatien.com)

It seems the Baron Gautsch led an unremarkable and idyllic life, steaming up and down the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts between Italy and Croatia, for the first five years of her life, passengers & holiday makers alike rubbed shoulders on her decks and in her lounges, whilst the European superpowers edged closer and closer to conflict in an arms race the world had not seen the like of before

The Beautiful Stairwell, Baron Gautsch (Web Photo: Courtesy H Geiger)
The Main Promenade Deck of Baron Gautsch (Web Photo: Courtesy paluba.info)

 Considering the almost incestuous familial relationships between the Royal families of the time, it is hard to imagine how such a situation arose, this was the Victorian era (from 1837-1901), a time of optimism and bravado, it was the age of the Industrial Revolution, of political reform and social change. The writings of Charles Dickens were driving social conscience, public reform and the eventual abolition of slavery in Britain (1834), the people’s charter of 1838 underpinning civil rights and advancing the emancipation of women, and the discoveries and groundbreaking opus of Charles Darwin, “On the Origin of Species” pushing science into the societal forefront, leading to a railway boom and the first telephone and telegraph. The events marking the reign of England’s Queen Victoria also had a much darker side, with the Crimean War, and the subsequent arms race between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the British Empire, seeing a scramble to build the world’s largest fleet of Dreadnought Battleships in order to secure dominance of the global seas, and retain the 25% of the world’s population who owed, or gave their allegiance to Victoria, Queen of the largest Empire the world had ever seen

World War 1 in a photograph: cousins, Tsar Nicholas of Russia & King George V of England at Osbourne House, Cowes, on the Isle of Wight (with sons Prince Edward & Tsarevich Alexi) (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

It is not without an impending sense of the Victorian Hubris, the kind that in 1912 led to the sinking of the Titanic, the largest moving object on Earth, that we see Queen Victoria’s wider European relations tearing at each other’s throats, in a display of implicit aggression that led to the eventual destruction of the strict class imposed divisions of Victorian society. It may have been the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo, Bosnia Herzegovina, that ignited World War 1, but it was Queen Victoria’s family at the heart of Europe and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, that fanned the flames. Victoria had married her first cousin, Albert of Saxe Coburg, they shared grandparents, Victoria’s mother, Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, and Prince Albert’s father, Duke Ernst of Saxe-Coburg & Gotha, Ernst and Victoria were brother and sister. Franz Ferdinand was Victoria’s Granddaughter, Marie’s, husband. Of Victoria & Albert’s nine children, all were married off to important European royal families, their daughter Victoria married Frederick the third of Prussia (their son was Kaiser Wilhelm II), their daughter Alice’s child, Alexandra, married Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, and her final daughter, Beatrice, married a German Prince, and those were just the female children  

Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany and King George V of England 1913

It was the outbreak of World War I that doomed the Baron Gautsch, and, in so doing, manifest tragedy from several perspectives, Royal families unable to resolve bitter power struggles, emergent social change and technological advances outpacing a public, hungry for opportunity but with little sense of potential consequence, and basic greed, a struggle for domination in any other form. There is, once again, that portent, Hubris, at the centre of all of this, had Kaiser Wilhelm II not envied Queen Victoria’s Navy and Empire quite so much, had the scapegoats of Bosnia Herzegovina and the Austro-Hungarian Empire treated Serbian Nationalists in a somewhat more politically adept manner, perhaps two world wars could have been avoided, after all, it was the implications of WWI that settled the fate of Serbia and the Balkans, and contributed to the fuel of Europe’s second world war, and an even wider impact on global stability…..

But there was a more profound and immediate Hubris in the Baron Gautsch sinking, and the loss of some 131 souls in the Adriatic Sea…..The Baron Gautsch was unwittingly sunk by her own navy

The 1902-1920 Austrian Minelayer Basilisk (Web Photo: Courtesy International Naval Research Organization)

13th August 1914, at 14:45, The Baron Gautsch, bound for Trieste and steaming at her full speed of 17 Knotts, was sunk by a mine, laid just hours before by the Austro-Hungarian minelayer Basilisk. The Basilisk had seen the Baron Gautsch and was desperately signaling her to prevent her steaming into the minefield they had just laid, to no avail, the signals went unseen, or unheeded, the sickening inevitability of her fate sealed, it was the Basilisk who sent out the first motor launch to save whatever passengers they could, following the detonation of one of their own mines on Baron Gautsch’s Port side. It took just 5 minutes for the Baron Gautsch to list to Port and then slip under the Adriatic. The Basilisk, joined quickly by the Austro-Hungarian destroyers “Balaton”, “Triglav”, “Orijen” and “Uskope” saved passengers swimming in the fuel oil and resultant fire following the sinking, it is ironic that an unknown amount of those left in the water, (without life jackets or a place in the few lifeboats that did launch successfully from the Baron Gautsch), undoubtedly owe their lives to the ship that unwittingly placed them in such danger to begin with

The Basilisk was built in the shipyard at Lussimpiccolo, which today is the town of Mali Losinj on the island of Losinj in the Northern Adriatic, it is now a part of Croatia but at that time it was part of Austria. Ironically the Baron Gautsch had boarded passengers in that very port on the morning of her sinking. The Basilisk went through the first world war then to be “ceded” (given as war re-payment/spoils) to France in 1919, being commissioned into the French Navy in 1920 as the Aurore, she was transferred to the Romanian Navy in 1922 and re-fitted at Galati shipyard from 1937-1939 when she took part in the second world war

Baron Gautsch in Lussimpiccolo, modern day Town of Mali Losinj (Web Photo: Courtesy Z Kiriskovic)

The Basilisk ended her life in 1941 as the Aurora, sunk by Soviet aircraft, but not before she had taken part in the Soviet occupation of Bessarabia and Bukovina in Romania and then in Operation München, the joint German/Romanian response to the Soviet attack on Romania, her service record notes she contributed to the sinking of a lead destroyer during that period: (On line resource: https://www.wikiwand.com/en/NMS_Aurora Accessed 20/09/2021) “Aurora laid her first mine barrage in the morning of 30 June, off Sulina, during the Soviet invasion of Bessarabia . She was commanded by Lieutenant-Commander Stan Baicu. A second barrage was laid during the night of 10–11 January 1941. She laid a third barrage in the area on 27–28 June 1941. Between 16 and 19 June 1941, she and two other Romanian minelayers, Amiral Murgescu and Regele Carol I (converted merchant ship), laid a barrage of 1,000 mines between Cape Midia and Tuzla, to protect the main Romanian port of Constanța. The mines laid off Constanța would later sink a Soviet destroyer leader during the 26 June Soviet raid on the port. Aurora herself was sunk on 15 July at Sulina during Operation München by Soviet aircraft” 

Basilisk, Starboard Side (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikiwand)

News of the Baron Gautsch sinking reached the world from many sources despite the outbreak of the war, the New York Times of 15 August 1914 carried a brief notice (P3) under the Headline: “150 Die on Austrian Liner” going on to describe the tragedy in short, concise fashion, perhaps due to the sensitivities surrounding the war and the multi-national citizenship of the USA through European immigration, “Killed or drowned when Vessel Hits Mine in the Adriatic. London, Aug 14 – About 150 of the passengers and crew of the Austrian Lloyd Steamer Baron Gautsch were killed or drowned when the vessel was blown up today by a mine off the Island of Lussin, on the Dalmatian coast, according to a Reuter dispatch from Triest. She carried about 300 passengers and crew, of whom about 150 were rescued”

Passengers Relax on the Port Promenade Deck of the Baron Gautsch (Web Photo: Courtesy paluba.info)

The report carried no apportioning of blame and, in the circumstances, that was probably best, as the story unfolds the nature of the sinking became more of an issue, after all, the Baron Gautsch was a civilian vessel, carrying passengers of many nations, and had unwittingly become the first maritime casualty of World War I, and, as it would become clear over the next few days, she was not only a victim of her own Navy, but the first casualty of a new kind of sea mine……… 

The New 1914 Austro-Hungarian Hertz Horn Mine (Web Photo: Courtesy The Great War Blog)

  The new type of mine was known as “Hertz Horn” and had distinct “horns” now archetypal of almost all war movies with naval scenes. Described by The Great War Blog (On-Line Resource: https://ww1blog.osborneink.com/?p=2385 Accessed 17/09/2021) the Hertz Horn Mines were “Made of soft metals such as lead, the ‘Hertz horn’ contains a conductive acid ampule that breaks when the tube bends, thus activating a battery charge to detonate the mine….”

The Ampule and Horn Arrangement of the soon to become ubiquitous “Hertz Horn Mine” (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

The Great War Blog description continues: “…….Although naval mines have been used for decades, the Hertz horn design is the first manufactured mine that explodes reliably after striking the hull of a vessel, shattering steel with an enormous pressure wave. Always controversial, but especially when they destroy civilian ships, naval mines were very nearly banned by the Hague Peace Conference of 1907. Although the Asquith government officially condemns the Kaiser’s navy for resorting to such indiscriminate weapons, Britain will later copy captured German mines to build their own first reliable contact mines, then lay some 235,000 of them in the allied blockade of Germany”

Contemporary Postcard of the Baron Gautsch Mine Explosion (Web Photo: Courtesy Casa-del-sub-al-Museo)

So where does “Hubris” damn the Baron Gautsch to the depths of the Adriatic, considering this was essentially a non-combatant passenger ship which should, to all intent and purposes, have been a relatively safe haven for passengers throughout the war? Let’s begin with the intended, and the actual use of the Baron Gautsch…… at the start of hostilities, the outbreak of WWI, 28th July 1914 (to 11th November 1918) Austria requisitioned all her Merchant Fleets including those of Osterreichischer Lloyd. The ships were placed under the control of the Austro-Hungarian Navy for a time and carried out troop movements for her armies. The Baron Gautsch was no exception and moved troops and their equipment around the Adriatic from ports such as Trieste to Kotor, in all making four journeys before her fateful return journey from Kotor, bound for Trieste, with Bosnia-Herzegovina refugees and passengers on the 13th August 1914. It is clear from her carriage of military personnel, that the Baron Gautsch would have presented a legitimate target, should it have been an allied or British ship that sunk her

The Assassination of Archduke Ferdinand in Sarajevo (Web Photo: Courtesy E Jazzup)

The tragedy of the Baron Gautsch might easily have been an allied attack, but it wasn’t, the lives lost in her sinking might have been simply avoided….. but they weren’t. Austrian Navy files on the sinking were still open until 1927 all but a few of those were left following a fire in the Vienna “Justizpalast”, some believed to be lost during the burning of the German Reichstag (Parliament Building) 27th February 1933, just four weeks after a certain Adolf Hitler had been elected as Reichschancellor. The sorry tale of the sinking of the Baron Gautsch might not have such a bitter twist, but for a series of damning circumstances described in heartrending sequence (translated by a Mr Felix G. Game), extracted from several of the Austrian Navy’s remaining documents following their judicial investigation into the tragedy……

The Routes of Österreichischer Lloyd’s Baron Gautsch (Web Photo: Courtesy total-croatia-news.com)

From the remaining reports available, and from the genealogical family history of Oberleutnant Robert Franz Schenk of the Bosnian-Herzegovinian Army, Felix Game, whilst researching his ancestor in “The Game Ancestry – Second Edition – Part 1 – Chapter 5”

 (On-line resource: Accessed 22/09/2021. http://freepages.rootsweb.com/~fggame/genealogy/htmldocs/zwierzina-johann-1792-schenk.html )has translated the notation on the Baron Gautsch and the pre-briefings given to the ship prior to departure:

“An advisory meeting was held in the port of Cattaro before the steamer sailed. It was attended by the First Captain and the Second Captain (common designation at Lloyd’s, where the latter carries out the duties of a First Officer) who were informed of the approximate extent of the minefield currently being laid. They were also warned to maintain a sharp lookout and to heed warnings that they may receive from Austrian Navy vessels. The subsequent voyage was uneventful as far as Lussin. In that port the vessel was under the command of the Second Captain, who would be relieved by the Second Officer from Rovigno on (the First Captain was at this point on his scheduled rest period). In Lussin the word was that no problems would be encountered if a distance of 10 nautical miles were maintained from the coast…..”

Baron Gautsch Docked Believed to be in Pula (Web Photo: Courtesy vizalattifotozas.hu)

Felix Game’s tenacity in researching the death of his ancestor unearthed a piece of history which had been lost to his family for generations, a report in the “Wiener Zeitung” (Vienna Newspaper) of 3 Mar 1916 reported of Oberleutnant Robert Franz Schenk: “The Emperor awarded 1½ years after his death the Order of the Iron Crown 3rd Class to First Lieutenant Robert Schenk of the Bosnian-Herzegovinian Infantry Regiment #4 who lost his life on 13 August 1914 during the sinking of the Lloyd Steamer Baron Gautsch while engaged in the saving of numerous humans lives in a heroic, and extremely selfless manner,” It paints a picture of the tragedy of the event, and the heroism of at least one of the passengers lost to the Baron Gautsch sinking, Oberleutnant Schenk had only married 4 days before his trip and the desperate sadness of his heroism conceals an even deeper tragedy, there is no mention of his young wife’s name to be found and both slipped from this earth into the depths of the Adriatic on that day  

Baron Gautsch, Victualing Doors Open, Leaving Trieste (Web Photo: Courtesy www.besser-tauchen.de )

I first heard of “…a shipwreck I dived some time ago off Pula, deep and eerie, I have to say it spooked the hell out of me and you could see it all, it was like a ghost you could see through, almost not there” from one of the mob (sadly I cannot remember exactly who) with me on my UN excursion into the Balkans in 1992 (elsewhere in this blog under “other stuff”). Now, as I was charged with setting up a diving course, and some recreational diving, for the various UN army units involved in the cooling of the situation the death of Tito had caused, and the collapse of the Yalta conference imposition of “Yugoslavia” onto the world map, I was very keen to investigate…..

“……It was like a Ghost you could see through, almost not there…” (Web Photo: Courtesy tauchen-nuernberg.de)

The story of setting up the UN recreational diving programme for the UNPROFOR tour is documented in the earlier piece in this blog, but, during the setting up of the diving, I got nothing out of Vlado, Slavko, Egor or Jellico on any local wrecks at the time. I’d have loved to dive something spectacular however there were restrictions in place and they were being taken seriously, after all, Pula was not only an important port for Croatia, but there were shipyards close so the Pula port authority was reluctant to let anyone dive locally, let alone be given permission to navigate around the coastal areas nearby. It would be years after I finished the UN tour before I thought of returning specifically to dive, and it was more by accident that I learned of the Baron Gautsch (when looking for a dive centre to fill a couple of days of a longer stay, once Ellie had decided Croatia was worth more than a brief weekend visit), than it was a deliberate search for her. I had been back to the Hotel Histria as a sort of catharsis, not from any trauma, the tour was largely uneventful, more from a “missed opportunity” perspective

Punta Verudella, Pula, Croatia 1992

 I had wanted to start a serious dive operation in Pula, based on the Verudella peninsula, following my return to the UK, I knew Croatia would return to being a holiday destination soon enough after the conflict, and I believed I could set-up there and take advantage of a relatively un-dived (from a UK perspective at least) Blue Water location, just 2 hours flight from any UK airport, and with little difficulty, given the co-operation of the Croatian authorities and a desire to bring in foreign income to an economy that tanked during the crisis. Sadly, the idea was quickly squashed, our youngest boy, Kai was born and Ellie’s desire to up-sticks and move to a country only marginally out of a serious conflict was, to say the least, none-existent. There was also the matter of set-up costs, after all, I had nothing but dive kit to show and which bank was going to invest in that situation, perhaps it was, after all, just a pipe dream, but I wanted to see what the chances were, or could have been, so I persuaded Ellie to go over for a week just to see what had come of Pula and Murgon’s dive operation

Changing Rooms, Murgon’s Dive Front, Back in the Day, 1992

The human tragedy of the shipwrecks I am privileged to dive is never far from my mind, not only whilst I am diving the wreck itself, but also as a background to the sinking and the ship, her crew and passengers and the loss their families and friends endure. In researching the Baron Gautsch I had not, until recently, come across actual descriptions of the sinking and the surrounding chaos of the event, perhaps as this is not a wreck widely known in the UK and not a region previously dived very much from the UK, although diving here is definitely on the increase as several expeditions from the US have proven

Baron Gautsch Bridge (Web Photo: Courtesy fransreef)

Indeed, it is a US source that brought home the human tragedy that befell those aboard, Judi Heit in her blog (On-line resource: https://civiliansandwarsatsea.blogspot.com Accessed 23/09/21) researching civilian casualty’s lost through war at sea quotes “Dr. Neubauer” a passenger sailing on the Baron Gautsch with his family, again from the “Wiener Zeitung” 18 August 1914 issue (p.9, c.2):   “There was big panic on board. He credits a chief railway inspector from Brno for keeping his wits about himself, breaking open the cabin door in which the life preservers were stored, and thus providing his fellow passengers the only means of saving themselves. Dr. Neubauer’s party also managed to obtain life preservers and they jumped into the water. His daughter Bertha with the baby in her arms did find a place in one of the life boats, but after a few men jumped into it, the life boat capsized dumping in the water those already seated. The waves tore the child from the mother’s arms and it was never found. Continuing to swim, Neubauer found his other daughter Luise (who was a teacher at her father’s school), but never again did he see his wife, nor his daughter Berta’s maid”

Baron Gautsch Illustrated as She Rests (Web Illustration: Courtesy D Frka)

Following the sinking the Captain, Paul Winter and Second Captain (First Officer) Luppis, who both survived the incident, were interned in Pula to answer for the situation and circumstances that led to Baron Gautsch’s demise. On the deck, in command at the time of her sinking, Second Officer Tense, had no briefing in regards to the minefield, Felix Game’s translation is damning: “Approximately abreast of Pola the commanding Second Captain had the Second Officer called, and told him that he was not feeling well, and asked him to relieve him 45 minutes earlier than scheduled. The Second Officer readily agreed to this without having any knowledge of the danger of the mines. He had been supervising the embarkation of passengers and the loading of goods in Cattaro and was for this reason not present at the pre-departure meeting. And strangely enough, none of the other people who knew thought of informing him about the dangers, allowing the Second Officer to sail blindly into the recently laid minefield” (On-line resource: Accessed 22/09/2021. http://freepages.rootsweb.com/~fggame/genealogy/htmldocs/zwierzina-johann-1792-schenk.html )

Baron Gautsch 2015 (Photo: Courtesy D Bonnici)

Second Officer Tense, who neither the Captain nor First Officer had briefed on the activities of the Austrian Minelayers, survived the sinking. In horrifying irony, Second Officer Tense would later be found on the shores at Pula with a bullet hole in his head, assumed at the time to be suicide. Whilst both the Captain and First Officer were reprimanded, detailed records were lost in the chaos of the war, and the various administrative fires of the time, but both seem to have escaped any serious consequences, remaining with Lloyd’s Austria and commanding several vessels in the following years. There was, of course, in the circumstances, opportunity to deflect blame, at least initially: “Immediately after the catastrophe, there were of course suspicions of a bomb having been placed aboard – after all there was a Serb woman working in the kitchen”, a telling statement clearly showing the animosity of the time between Austro-Hungary, Serbia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, following the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand (the heir to the throne of Austria), and the resultant outbreak of the war in Europe. These suspicions proved unfounded when the investigations proved Basilisk had not only mined the area hours before, (indeed having finished that exercise, literally, only to see Baron Gautsch steam headlong towards their deadly and destructive network of new mines), but that Baron Gautsch was paying no attention to their attempts to warn her off

Promenade Deck Corridor, Baron Gautsch (Photo: Courtesy D Bonnici)

  I dived Baron Gautsch in 2015 with Indie Divers of Pula and from the start of the descent down the shot there was the anticipation of an epic dive, my Navy Log book describes the dive: “05/10/15 BARON VON GAUTSCH Pula Croatia So after 23 years I manage to get back to dive Pula my first ever foreign dive site! This time the Baron Von Gautsch an Austro Hungarian passenger liner sunk by mine an hour and a half out of Pula with great loss of life in 13 August 1914. We dropped onto the bow @ 35m and then toured through the bridge & into the main of the ship. The Baron is very open – stood flat on the sea bed and upright but with some wood still evident on her promenade deck. The viz was good and this is a go-pro dive so all recorded. We went through her deck levels to her engine room where you can see her steam engines & back up to go to the stern then we swam the Port bridge deck to exit at the bow & deco for half an hour – great return to Croatia – loved the dive! Air In 230 Out 100 Viz 10-12m Buddy David an Italian Photographer”

Towards the Engine Room, Baron Gautsch (Photo: Courtesy D Bonnici)

As is always the case, the dive log does little to describe the feeling of diving the Baron Gautsch, there is of course a descriptive of the wreck, a rough outline of the areas visited, but nothing to evoke the feel of her! The first impression of the bow looming out of a green and gloomy Adriatic on that October morning was quite something, the wreck almost shrouded in the haze of what was a darker and lesser viz than usual in the Adriatic. Knowing there had been many innocent casualties, a high proportion of those casualties children, made the dive bitter-sweet, those with children will perhaps better understand the deep despair of lost young lives. The wreck is in beautiful condition, wholly intact and sat, in epic movie style, as if she could sail away at any moment, but skeletal, thin of any fittings, windows, portholes, doors, anything…..it is clear that any fittings have been taken over the years, some feature in museums, where they really should be, I’m sure some are held privately too

Gourlay Brothers Makers Plate from Baron Gautsch, Rovinj Museum (Web Photo: Courtesy Rovinj Museum)

The run through her was bathed in eerie green light like that at Stoney Cove during the summer months. The corridors show where teak planking would have lain, jagged support frame ironwork evident and awaiting anyone not in tight control of their finning or arm movements, occasional remnants of Teak linger as a reminder of the Baron’s once pristine and luxurious fittings and fixtures. The middle deck towards the centre of Baron Gautsch shows what would have been her stairwell and, in the film of the dive, if you watch, you will see one of her funnels, collapsed into the space resting at a sharp angle down the stairwell, but still allowing plenty of room for us to descend and look at the engine room itself

Navigating the Middle Section of Baron Gautsch (Photo: Courtesy D Bonnici)

I loved diving the Baron Gautsch, the easy access throughout is rare in a wreck, her size making her a wreck you can see a lot of on a single dive, if you don’t mind a little deco, and her depth meaning nitrox is a great option allowing longer dive times. Really though, the Baron is an amazing survivor of a catastrophic, almost tectonic clash between superpowers, the Austro-Hungarian Empire and her allies, and the British Empire and, eventually, her allies. The very first maritime casualty of World War I sits defiantly, when almost all evidence of that tumultuous conflict has vanished from the surface of the Earth, in her saline crypt, a monument to technology, to hubris and to the futility of all wars. I describe diving shipwrecks as a privilege, diving such a monumental wreck as the Baron Gautsch is a rare privilege indeed, the mere fact she exists is insufficient to fully capture the feeling of gliding through corridors once trod by the elite of Austro-Hungarian society, the truth of her testimony transcends that, the Baron Gautsch sits as proof mankind is doomed, if for no other reason than the stark reality….there is still war on Earth……..and she begs the question….will there ever not be war somewhere on Earth? 

The Baron Gautsch Bow (Web Photo: Courtesy inistrien.de)

The Baron Gautsch mirrored the 1912 loss of the Titanic, both steaming headlong towards catastrophe in a kind of blissful ignorance of the imminent danger they were in, a mirror image of Europe in the lead-up to World War I, it is perhaps no surprise to find the Baron Gautsch is commonly known as the Titanic of the Adriatic! 

My Thanks go to Davide Bonnici, the “Italian Photographer” on our dive, for the excellent photos shown in this piece

Dive The Baron Gautsch With Me…….

Filed Under: Best Dives Ever

Wrecked on Abu Nuhas

September 19, 2021 by Colin Jones

The Chrisoula K

THE CHRISOULA K was built in 1954 as the DORA OLDENDORFF by Orenstein Koppel & Lubecker, she was 320ft long, 3720 tons and fitted with a two stroke MAN engine, for Egon Oldendorff of E.L OLDENDORFF & CO. In 1970 she changed her name and ownership and became the ANNA B. In 1979 she was purchased by Dimitris P Kavadas, via Clarion Marine, and was renamed the CHRISOULA K

The Dora Oldendorff at her Launch, Hamburg 1954 (Web Photo: Courtesy Oldendorff.com)

The MV LUDOLF OLDENDORFF (2) of 4,650 tdw, delivered to Egon Oldendorff by Lübecker Maschinenbau-Gesellschaft on 2 December 1952, and her sistership DORA OLDENDORFF (delivered two years thereafter), both had been designed as multi-purpose vessels and had a comparatively generous cubic capacity of 270,000 cu ft each. They spent most of their time in the Oldendorff fleet, chartered to passenger liner operators on period (time based) charters, but they also occasionally accepted voyage charters. Both ships frequently travelled the St. Lawrence Seaway after it’s re-opening in 1959, and sometimes ventured further into the Great Lakes. Between 1960 and 1964 the Dora Oldendorff performed no fewer than 33 trips into the Great Lakes on time charter to transport operators, Canadian Pacific, the St Lawrence affords direct access for the larger deep sea vessels to important North American industrial centers

Dora Oldendorff Docked in Brazil 1964 (Web Photo: Courtesy J Witten, seefunknetz.de)

The degree of technical innovation in the Dora Oldendorff and her sistership is reflected by an article in the Lübecker Nachrichten daily paper of 13 December 1952, reporting on the commissioning of the MV LUDOLF OLDENDORFF: “When LMG shipyard director Schiml handed over, outside territorial waters, the newbuilding to her owner, the Lübeck shipping company had added to its fleet its tenth ship, and its first motor vessel. The LUDOLF OLDENDORFF did 15.9 knots in ballast condition. Her 2,700 HP two-stroke MAN diesel engine gives her a fully laden speed of up to 14 knots. Her modern equipment includes a Decca radar set, a ‘Telegon’ goniometer first introduced in 1952 and a complete radio station, all supplied by DEBEG. The vessel has also been fitted with an echo sounder. The radar set pays for itself within three days of dense fog when the ship would otherwise be forced to idle, assuming a loss per fog-bound day of DM 10,000”

Dora Oldendorff IMO 5092723 Off Amsterdam c1968 (Web Photo: Courtesy S Kruyswijk)

Dora Oldendorff as the Anna B, Anchored at Longue Point Montreal 1972 (Web Photo: Courtesy R Beauchamp)

E.L. Oldendorff & Co, Hamburg, Germany

Egon Oldendorff was drafted for military service shortly before the war ended and was discharged from the army on 31 December 1918 as a qualified cavalryman. He seriously considered to take up farming but agreed to his father’s suggestion to commence his working life in the parental private bank and thereafter serve as a trainee in Hamburg before finally deciding his future career. He worked in the bank until June 1920 and opted for shipping during his time as a trainee with Lilienfeld & Homuth

Egon Oldendorff (Web Photo: Courtesy Oldendorff.com)

Alfred Homuth retired early in 1921, at that point Albert Lilienfeld made Egon Oldendorff his business partner, (Hamburg register of companies, 19 February 1921). Egon had been an apprentice for some 9 months at this point, however, the influence of his banking family background clearly impressed Lilienfeld and the result seems to justify the decision. The company changed its name to Lilienfeld & Oldendorff, Shipowners and Shipbrokers, Hamburg, with a branch office in Lübeck. Egon Oldendorff had come of age, at 21, merely two days before that date, a legal prerequisite for holding company shares in Germany at that time. Just days later the company announced the news in a letter to its clients, making reference to Mr Egon Oldendorff the banker, without any mention of the age of the new business partner

Dora Oldendorff Bridge 1964 (Web Photo: Courtesy J Witten, seefunknetz.de)
Dora Oldendorff Funnel & Starboard Bridge Wing 1964 (Web Photo: Courtesy J Witten, seefunknetz.de)

 The Dora Oldendorff was built in 1953/54 by the Orenstein-Koppel / Lübecker Maschinenbaugesellschaft AG shipyard, Lübeck as hull number 467, and handed over to the E.L. Oldendorff & Co shipping company in February 1954. The vessel was 106.45 m long, 14.8 m wide and registered at 3807 GRT, she was powered by a 2-stroke G9Z 52/90 (MAN) Diesel engine (9 cylinders / 52 cm piston diameter / 90 cm piston stroke) and produced 2700 PSe at 136 rpm giving her a top speed of 13.5 knots. On August 30, 1981, some 28 years after her launch, she ran into a reef in the southern Gulf of Suez on journey from Naples to Jeddah carrying Italian floor tiles. The entire crew was recovered unharmed, however salvage of cargo or ship was not deemed to be worthwhile, and she was deemed a total constructive loss

Dora Oldendorff Stern 1964 (Web Photo: Courtesy J Witten, seefunknetz.de)

I first dived the “Tile Wreck” in 1997 on the FSAC Red Sea trip from the Princess Dalal, she was identified to us by our German dive guide, Renate Veldmeier, as the Chrisoula K and, even then, was in a conspiracy of confusion with the local dive guides…… “06.08.97 ABU NUHAS CHRISOULA K The “K” was a 1954 made Greek cargo vessel carrying stone block & lentils en-route from Italy to Jeddah when she hit Abu Nuhas at speed breaking in two. We dropped to the stern and swam in between the blades of the prop and rudder then round to the holds, she’s on her starboard side and is rotting heavily we swam through the main hold taking in the bronze spare prop & the stern accommodation then back in to the engine room midships and through the whole of it & out to the hull a great dive which we continued…..”

Mangled Wreckage on Kimon M (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Now, the intriguing “…..which we continued”,  alludes to the second wreck lying within a short distance of “Chrisoula K” which our dive guide identified as the “Sea Star” which was apparently “….a cargo ship carrying lentils and stone slabs when she hit Abu Nuhas in 1976”. It is easy to see that whatever the facts of any shipwreck, different stories crop up even in tight diving communities like those of the Red Sea. There is of course the local Egyptian/Arab naming protocols for the wrecks they find and make use of on their shores, those they get “Tiles” from and those they got “Lentils” from, I’m sure Giannis D was at one time the “Wood” wreck (or might have been had her deck cargo stayed aboard long enough) after her cargo of timber! I should note here that both wrecks we dived at the time were very similar in state, one looking somewhat “younger” than the other in terms of time on the bottom. In researching another of the wrecks for this blog (the aforementioned Giannis D), I came across the writings of Peter Collings and, when I went to illustrate the Abu Nuhas wrecks to identify the Giannis D’s location, I became intrigued by the widespread confusion surrounding what had been, up until then, an unidentified wreck. In 1997, when I dived Abu Nuhas, the wreck had been identified and was generally accepted as the Kimon M (launched as the Brunsbuttel, out of Stulcken & Sohn shipyard, Hamburg, 1952, sunk 12th December 1978) sparking an internet spat on the Yorkshire Divers site between Peter Collings and his supporters, and Ned Middleton and those agreeing with his identification of the two Eastern of the wrecks on Abu Nuhas. The degree of difficulty identifying shipwrecks is not surprising, the Greek shipping magnates of the 1970’s and 80’s frequently traded in “ad-hoc” cargoes, often registering their vessels under flags of convenience in order to “bend” the rules of import and export, frequently selling their ships to “shell companies” and changing their names between ports, and, as noted elsewhere in this blog (when is a shipwreck not a shipwreck), often loading specifically perishable high value cargoes and managing to “navigate”, seemingly by error, into convenient and relatively safe, borderline “sub surface”, coral reefs……..

The Wrecks of Abu Nuhas (Web Illustration: Unattributable, Origin Unknown)

It is far more likely that the wreck I was told, and had no reason not to believe to be, “Chrisoula K”, but was in fact the “Unbekanntes” on the illustration, which we now know to be the Kimon M. I say that as the dive we continued onto, referred to as the “Sea Star” was, as I recall, to the right of the first wreck. We exited the first wreck fairly shallow and went, with the reef on our Left shoulders, to the second wreck, it would have been very evident (distance is way greater if nothing else) had that wreck turned out to be Carnatic, so I am at peace with the first wreck being Kimon M and the second being Chrisoula K. Peter Collings went on to describe the Chrisoula K as actually being a wreck called the “Marcus”, disputing Ned Middleton’s identification of the Tile Wreck being the Chrisoula K, that is where controversy really kicked in…….. Whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous authors…….

Chrisoula K as She Lies Today, Bow into Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Courtesy Rico Oldfield)

The Marcus……..? (According to Peter Collings)

“……She was a German registered vessel and sailed under several names, including ‘Naguilan’, ‘Nordhaff’ and ‘Atlas’ until 1971, when after an extensive fire, she was declared a total constructive loss. She was then sold to Greek interests and again went through several changes in ownership and name changes. The vessel finally took on the name ‘Marcus’ in 1978.”

The “Marcus” Postcard supplied to P Collings ref Stefan Jablonski (Web Photo: Courtesy P Collings)

Peter Collings (Collings. P. “The Tile Wreck Her True Story” https://issuu.com/maxshow/docs/4-2019_tile_wreck  07/2019. Maxshow Ltd. Accessed 17/08/21) e- book:

“BUILT at Flensburgh Bremen in 1956 by Flensburger Schiffe for the Atlas Levante Line, as the MV ATLAS and registered at Bremen, (Lloyds list no less than 18 vessels called ATLAS at this time) she was described as a general cargo ship, fitted with MAN diesel engines, 381 ft long, 2699 tons. In 1959 she became the NAGUILAN, until in 1959 she was sold to Klauss E Oldendorff (who had owned the Dora Oldendorff, later to become the Chrisoula K). Under that ownership she became the NORDHAFF. In 1971 she was on a voyage from New Orleans to Bordeaux and Brest with a cargo of soya bean meal when fire broke out in her engine room. One man died and four were injured. She made port at Mobile. After making temporary repairs she finalised her journey, but was then declared a total constructive loss. At this point she would appear to have become declassified with Lloyds and the trail goes cold”

  1. P Collings assertion the Atlas/Nordhaff (5246001) trail goes cold following declassification by Lloyds does not follow the information known for the vessel, which has “Nordhoff” sold to Pandio Shipping Corporation, Piraeus, Greece and re-named as Nikitas II 1971-1974 and then sold to Siam Maritime Lines Co Ltd, Bangkok, Thailand and re-named Siam Queen 1974-1976 and finally re-named Simali 1 from 1976 to 2015
Atlas LR (IMO) 5246001 Anchored in Holland (Web Photo: Courtesy A Kludas)

M/S ATLAS 1951 LR No.(IMO) 5246001
Built 1951 at Flensburger shiffsbau

Launched: 15.03.1951 & Delivered to Atlas Levante-Linie A.G., Bremen on 30.05.1951

  The Atlas has had an interesting life, apart from the immersion in the controversy of the Abu Nuhas “Tile Wreck”. Whilst in Hamburg, Germany, 02nd October in 1958 she suffered an explosion from “a magnetic mine” towards her bows, flooding her from the Starboard and immobilizing her with a 55’ list and grounded bow at shed 72/3 for some time. Atlas was repaired at Blohm und Voss shipyard and returned to the Levante Line on Jan 27th of 1959, the Levante Line then changing her name to Naguilan

Atlas Listing to 55’ Sunk at her bows at shed 72/3 Hamburg 01/10/1958 (Web Photo: Courtesy DDG Hansa)

I am not sure how Atlas could ever be confused as the Tile Wreck on Abu Nuhas notwithstanding the fact she is still sailing or at least likely afloat up till 2015, her stern is just incompatible with the Tile Wreck, Atlas had a stern castle shelter-deck which extends to her hull in all directions which the Tile Wreck does not show and never had as there is no evidence of removal and no wreckage of such a feature present at the site. For both those reasons it is safe to say that the Atlas IMO 5246001 is not, and never could have been the Tile Wreck on Abu Nuhas

Atlas, Stern On, Tugs Alongside, Being Pumped Out at Hamburg, Quayside (Web Photo: Courtesy R. Meinecke)
Atlas Nearing Stability at Hamburg 1958 (Web Photo: Courtesy R. Meinecke)

My next dive on the Tile Wreck would be in November of 2008, the infamous “THREE WRECKS IN ONE DIVE” (25/11/2008), detailed in the Giannis D, and Carnatic piece in the wreck section of this blog: “…..Starting with the Chrisoula K Dropping onto the stern and round the rudder & prop She’s on her Starboard side – round to the bridge & then through the tool room past the lathe & on into the hold through the cargo of floor tiles round to the bows passing many colourful fish & a spotted Ray. A five minute swim with the reef on our left took us to the Carnatic…….” 

The Atlas as Naguilan, Leaving Hamburg at the Elbe c1959 (Web Photo: Courtesy W Fuchs)

To Be or Not to Be……The Chrisoula K or Marcus Debate……

Let us consider the facts before we debate the circumstances, “….I come to bury Caesar, not to praise him…….”

Fact 1:

The bow of the Chrisoula K was clearly identified as completely separate from the main wreckage on Abu Nuhas, incidental to where the remains of the hull may be

Fact 2:

The wreck known locally as the “tile wreck” still has the bow attached and therefore cannot be the Chrisoula K

Statement:

  From these two facts it can be logically determined that there is a wreck full of tiles on Abu Nuhas which remains to this day controversially “nameless” in as much as there is nothing to identify her visible in terms of hull markings. It can also be determined that the only way of identifying this wreck must come from physical characteristics matched to a vessel and a record, or records of a vessel which can then be traced to the reef at Abu Nuhas

Kimon M Rudder & Prop (Web Photo: Courtesy Edgar)

The next opportunity I got to dive the Tile Wreck was in July of 2013, my first trip with a Go-Pro camera, unfortunately also the first time 64GB micro SD cards were available and, unknown to most of us, especially those new to the Go-Pro, those same cards caused an OS meltdown rendering the £500 spent on the camera and its peripherals useless, I still had the dives but also a bitter disappointment that there was no record of them! Anyhow, my Navy Log Book describes the dive in typical fashion: “30/07/13 Kimon M & Chrisoula K – Abu Nuhas – Red Sea dropped onto Chrisoula K we spent time diving the prop & rudder before entering the stern section & winding our way round the battered stern hold area which is collapsing in on itself slowly a long swim from stern to bow along the port side to exit at the break aft of the bow which is missing. Through the remains of the starboard side & hold to exit and transit the reef for a couple of hundred meters to the Kimon M again down the starboard side to the prop & rudder which lie on the seabed to starboard. We swam through then circled to the stern deck housing and wended through the collapsed rear section which is dangerously collapsed in but can still be negotiated up through the hull which leads to the engine room which was swam through & then back into to go through the port side which allowed a swim through and out to turn back at the missing bow section and a swim along the starboard side – over the hull to deco below our moored boat Air In 210 Out 80 Buddy Craig” Once again it seems the dive guide has briefed the Kimon M as the Chrisoula K and vice-versa as the dive description as I re-read it now would make far more sense to have started on the Kimon M where her stern is over to Starboard and more damaged than the Chrisoula K however at that time I was more interested in the wrecks themselves than the accuracy of the identification, after all, both vessels are very similar until you lens them a little deeper…….

Chrisoula K Rudder & Prop (Web Photo: Courtesy Guillen)

Disclaimer:

  Those of you who have spent time on this site will perhaps be aware that I know Ned Middleton, not in any hugely significant (to this issue at least) way, it would be unfair to claim much more than a passing acquaintance, however I have met, briefly worked with, and get on very well (to date at least, although I’m sure this article might grate a little, I trust Ned’s innate sense of fair play to not let that truly antagonise….) with Ned and I admire Ned’s professionalism and diligence in all he writes. I have no personal knowledge of Peter Collings, save that I also admire his writings and have enjoyed coming across his pieces whilst researching some detail on the wrecks I have dived in the Red Sea. I also trust this piece, if either ever reads it, stands as a review of fact and an interesting “other” viewpoint, generated from the controversy of the Chrisoula K alone, and not of any desire to throw incendiaries amongst the Yorkshire Divers “MMA” (Mixed Maritime Articles…..?) web-site ding-dong of a few years ago……

Shipwrecks From The Egyptian Red Sea, Ned Middleton’s Excellent Wreck Reference Book

And so…… to de-bunking current assumptions:

Peter Collings (Collings. P. “The Tile Wreck Her True Story” https://issuu.com/maxshow/docs/4-2019_tile_wreck  07/2019. Maxshow Ltd. Accessed 17/08/21)

“BUILT at Flensburgh Bremen in 1956 by Flensburger Schiffe for the Atlas Levante Line, as the MV ATLAS and registered at Bremen, (Lloyds list no less than 18 vessels called ATLAS at this time) she was described as a general cargo ship, fitted with MAN diesel engines, 381 ft long, 2699 tons. In 1959 she became the NAGUILAN, until in 1959 she was sold to Klauss E Oldendorff (who had owned the Dora Oldendorff, later to become the Chrisoula K). Under that ownership she became the NORDHAFF…….”

  1. Peter Collings assertion the wreck he goes on to refer to as “Marcus” had originally been named MV ATLAS built in 1956 is not possible if, as he asserts, she then became the Naguilan and Nordhaff etc. That vessel was the MV Atlas built at Flensburgh Bremen by Flensburger Schiffe for the Atlas Levante Line in 1951 (not 1956), LR Number 5246001. Renamed on 27.01.1959 as NAGUILAN (DEAA) 1959-1967, then returned to her original name ATLAS from 1967-1969. She was sold to shipping company “Nord” (Klaus Oldendorff), Hamburg 02.10.1969 and re-named  NORDHAFF (DEAA) 1969-1971. On the 21.05.1971 she was sold to Pandio Shipping Corporation, Piraeus, Greece and re-named NIKITAS II 1971-1974. In 1974 she was again sold, this time to Siam Maritime Lines Co. Ltd., Bangkok, Thailand when she was re-named SIAM QUEEN (HSKG) 1974-1976. In 1976 she was again, and for the last time re-named SIMALI I (HSKG) 1976-2015. As Simali 1, LR No. 5246001 she was still in motion in Equasis (Maritime Tracking Database)in 2015 making it impossible she was sunk on Abu Nuhas
Siam Queen (IMO 5246001) at anchor 1974 (Web Photo: Courtesy G. Fiebiger)

“…….In 1971 she was on a voyage from New Orleans to Bordeaux and Brest with a cargo of soya bean meal when fire broke out in her engine room. One man died and four were injured. She made port at Mobile. After making temporary repairs she finalised her journey, but was then declared a total constructive loss. At this point she would appear to have become declassified with Lloyds and the trail goes cold”

2. Peter Collings assertion the Atlas/Nordhaff (5246001) trail goes cold following declassification by Lloyds does not follow the information known for the vessel, as noted above, which has the Nordhoff sold to Pandio Shipping Corporation, Piraeus, Greece and re-named as Nikitas II 1971-1974 and then sold to Siam Maritime Lines Co Ltd, Bangkok, Thailand and re-named Siam Queen 1974-1976 and finally re-named Simali 1 from 1976 to 2015 and was still in motion (sailing) in 2015 according to several maritime tracking systems

“During our two dives (no nitrox, no computers, no camera’s) the ships bell was recovered and retained by Saleem. As well as bearing her original name the date and port of registry were marked clearly – BREMEN 1951,.- a fact lost for many years. The painted name on her hull and wooden boards reading Marcus……”

3. Peter Collings assertion here, that the Atlas Bell was marked 1951 differs from his later claim, and indeed the photograph he presents as that of the Atlas Bell, “….recovered and retained by Saleem”, the captain of the dive boat who recovered it from the tile wreck bears the markings Atlas Bremen 19(8?)56….

4. To have the Bell marked “Atlas Bremen” as Peter Collings asserts, she must have started life as the Atlas……(Bells are not removed from the ship at transfer of ownership or name)

“After many years I tracked Saleem down and among the many treasures he had collected was several of the stone statues and indeed a ships bell – covered in white paint. He had obviously gone back to the wreck after our visit! After much persuasion and many shisha’s, he allowed me to clean up the bell and take photos of it. So we both ended up with a piece of treasure from the tile wreck. I now had the ultimate proof of the vessels identity …. The bell, inscribed ATLAS, BREMEN 1956……..”

5. Peter Collings may be forgiven for the initial date claimed for the bell and perhaps the later statement changing the year of manufacture, based on the years between the original dives on the wreck and the re-discovery and cleaning of the bell, were it not contained in the same piece, where at the very least the discrepancy merits some clarification? The original date claimed (1951) for the bell would have been aligned to the MV Atlas, 5246001, but the later date of 1956 clearly removes that vessel from the bell itself if not from the whole of Peter Collings proposal of that vessel being the tile wreck. (I have to mention the photo of the bell gives my tired old eyes the distinct impression it is dated 1856 rather than 1956…..)     

“Reproduction of a postcard from Stefan Jablonski’s collection. Many vessels carried a stock of postcards on board for the crews use. Printed on the back the notation “M.V ATLAS 1956 BREMEN, ATLAS LEVANTE. Inscribed in Stefan’s hand in Polish,” Joined May 78 as Marcus V.S.L…….”

6. The postcard exhibited in Peter Collings piece cannot be categorically identified as any particular vessel, the stern name is unclear, however, the shipping line is on the funnel as YS….or is it VS?…the shipping line Stephan Jablonski asserts he was signed with was the “Vikki Shipping Line”

“…….In 1978 I was employed by the Vikki Shipping Line. They were a Greek merchant fleet, made up of very old ships…..”

 It would perhaps have been more “immediate” as evidence if the reverse of the card had been an accompanying photograph? I have seen many ships cards and they often use generic photos to represent a class of ships a particular line favours or owns. One thing is clear Stephan Jablonski (the crew member Peter Collings interviewed from several Abu Nuhas wrecks, aboard each at the time of wrecking) confirms the postcard he sent to Peter Collings

“……Quite often the ship would have a different name on the postcard. (I have previously sent one of these to Peter because of his interest in the ships)……”

One thing though is certain, the stern of this vessel is not that of the tile wreck which has distinctive differences, the most obvious being the lifeboat davits present on the tile wreck but absent on the postcard vessel. There is also a gangway extending to stern on the stern-castle of the postcard vessel, but not on the tile wreck, nor is there any evidence of a second level of stern deck/accommodation on the tile wreck, even the mast showing on the tile wreck is different from that on the postcard vessel, all things considered, unless extensive modification had been carried out on the postcard vessel (and could be evidenced), it cannot legitimately claim to be the tile wreck

7. Finally It should be noted that the Atlas (5246001) has two 9 cylinder engines, “…single-acting four-stroke Maschinenfabrik Augsburg-Nürnberg (MAN) Augsburg Diesel Engines 3,600 PSe / 375 rpm” whilst the Dora Oldendorff (IMO 5092723)  has only a single 9 cylinder two stroke MAN Diesel “2-stroke diesel engine (MAN) of the type G 9 Z 52/90 (9 cylinders / 52 cm piston diameter / 90 cm piston stroke” producing 2700 PSe at 136 rpm

The Tile Wreck Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Unattributable of Unknown origin)

Burden of proof:

P Collings perhaps has the means of categorically proving the tile wreck is indeed the MV Marcus and if so, I am not sure why that wider range of evidence has not been shared and does not appear in his piece on the Chrisoula K

“……two significant pieces of evidence came into my possession, one of which was a photograph taken in 1979 – by non other than HOWARD ROSENSTEIN (who had discovered the DUNRAVEN) – the photo clearly shows the MARCUS sinking and indeed her name can be made out quite clearly painted on the bow – Shadwan Island is discernible in the background….”

The Bow Shot on Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Courtesy H Rosenstein)

If the photo above is truly supposed to show the MARCUS sinking,“……..and indeed her name can be made out quite clearly painted on the bow….” then I am at odds with Peter Collings insomuch as I cannot adequately discern the name on the bow, perhaps, again, my eyes are too old? If a better photograph exists  I suggest that it is shared with the wider diving public (if it hasn’t so far?) then all that will remain is categorically tying the wreck with a named and built vessel with clear and dated origins, history and ownership from birth to death and a proven timeline to meet its sinking…..but then isn’t that where we are currently?

So to the Ned Middleton Piece and the Yorkshire Divers website piece, (the tone of which is oddly not like Ned’s usual outlook from what I have seen of Ned, and from how Ned’s research has always come across to me after reading most of his books and hoovering up his Red Sea pieces, especially on Thistlegorm, but I digress……) Ned seems fixed on the “lack” of a Marcus and polarized on the “must” therefore be Chrisoula K……I don’t get that, it’s just not really Ned….

“…….I can assure people that there is no shipwreck on Sha’ab Abu Nuhas (or anywhere else in Egypt) called Marko, Markos, Markus or Marcus and instead of my having to continually refute these assertions to the contrary, I do so wish those who insist otherwise would simply provide details of such a ship…….”

All I can take from the YD piece (https//www.yorkshire-divers.com/threads/marcus- or- Chrisoula- K.47077/#post-576870:.On-Line resource: Accessed 18/08/2021) is perhaps a sense of deep frustration from Ned that others are simply challenging “by assumption” rather than presenting hard fact or compelling evidence, I can easily understand Ned’s situation from that perspective

I have a couple of points which perplex me and the first is that the stern of the Tile wreck is not a perfect match for the Dora Oldendorff, which eventually became the Chrisoula K before her known and widely proven demise on Abu Nuhas. This (above) is the stern of the Dora Oldendorff, launched. 27.2.1954, completed by Orenstein & Koppel & Lübecker Maschinenbau Gesellschaft, Lübeck (No. 467) for E. L. Oldendorff & Co. GmbH., Lübeck (DEU) taken from their own company history, and (below) a close-up taken prior to her sale on the 16.12.1970 to Interocean Shipping Co. SA., Piraeus (GRC), when she was renamed ANNA B

Comparison with the Tile Wreck is certainly far better than that of the supposed Marcus of Stephan Jablonski’s postcard, inasmuch as there is no Secondary superstructure at the stern-castle, and there is no Gangway to the stern from the stern castle deck. It should also be evident the stern mooring bollards (x3 port and starboard) are accurate to both the Dora Oldendorff and the Tile Wreck, the lifeboat davits are present and correct to both ships, as is the stern mast, neither of which is the case for the supposed “Marcus” in Stephan Jablonski’s postcard

Another look at the Tile Wreck Stern, Only One Stern Castle Deck level & Prominent Lifeboat Davits

In another shot of the stern of the Tile Wreck (below) we can see a slightly more advantageous angle which allows comparison of the stern castle door, in the shot above it looks distinctly “Portside” whereas the Dora Oldendorff had a central Stern castle door, apparent in the Oldendorff history shot and in the pre-sale close-up. That is clarified in the shot below which also shows the stern has a row of open ports, two either side of the centre-line of the stern and one each port and starboard on the stern castle either side of the door, and two stern rope eyes again identical to the Dora Oldendorff shots. The perplexing bit is the stern castle door is much narrower on the Tile Wreck than the Dora Oldendorff seems to be, a minor point but nevertheless an obvious one, and the obvious and prominent raised plate laps or seams on the Dora Oldendorff do not appear on the Tile Wreck, another minor point and perhaps moot if the concretion of years underwater could be rubbed away to reveal such features, highly possible, (far more so than finding a second stern deck level as we would have to do to match the supposed “Marcus” postcard and the Tile wreck)

Stern on Shot of the Tile Wreck Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Unattributable of Unknown origin)

 Enough of the he said she said……..let’s Break Stuff…..

Let’s examine a different “perspective” for a moment and review what, before now, has been taken to be “fact”…. Fact 1 (from the outset of this piece) can be challenged, it may seem a little odd to do so, however, indulge me for a moment, let’s take another look at the bow shot of the Chrisoula K on Abu Nuhas

The initial impression is of a bow, separate from the remainder of her hull at or around the fore-peak deck division yes? OK, how about we ask ourselves a couple of questions before we look at the second “Chrisoula K” bow shot. Firstly, can we see any rails at the bow between the highest point of the bow at the break of forepeak and fore-castle deck? Secondly there is a clearly defined plate overlap/strake under the Port Anchor hawse and a distinct strengthener welded around the Port Anchor hawse. Lastly is it too far-fetched to believe the remains of the hull may……and I am going to repeat that….. “may” be obscured by the angle of the shot? Let’s take another look at the second Abu Nuhas bow shot

This is purported to be a second shot of the bow of Chrisoula K and features in many of the written pieces on her sinking, looking at this shot, a different angle admittedly, this would seem to show conclusively that the Chrisoula K’s bow was indeed entirely separate from her hull remains. Peter Collings uses an engineer’s report on the similarities, in part, to underscore his piece. It can be seen that there is a distinct handrail set, not bent over but upright, in fact seemingly bowed out at the third & fourth upright, on the Port Bow between the fore-peak and the Forecastle deck where it meets the break at the main deck. It may just be the angle the bow is sitting at but it seems the starboard anchor is hawsed higher on this bow than it does on the Chrisoula K’s bow? Sadly, the strengthener around the Starboard Hawse does not show on the unnamed bow shot, oddly, and, again it “may” just be the angle of the shot, but neither does the welded plate overlap/seam show, no matter how much I zoom the shot…..It would seem there are some distinct and noteworthy anomalies if we are to confidently believe the two shots are of the same bow, lastly there is a distinct flag-staff or “angled vent pipe” at the bow of the second shot, absent from the fist by the angle…..co-incidence……. or deliberate cropping of the shot?

The Wreck Bows of Abu Nuhas (Web Photo’s: Courtesy of H Rosenstein and (inset) P Collings)

 In the shot above it is clear there were two bows in close proximity believed to be in 1978 when the Kimon M hit Abu Nuhas and sank. I cannot adequately discern from the photo the name on the right hand side of the photo although Peter Collings is convinced it shows “Marcus”, I will leave each reader to decide the accuracy of that. On the Left hand side it is clear the bow in question has a vent/flag-staff with a “crook” style turn at its top, an anchor hawse very close to the bow and, from the vent visible above the water to the rear of the fore-mast & derrick, it would seem the remains of the wreck are still attached to the bow, sadly there is no name discernible from the bow of this vessel either. Is it too much to think this is the Chrisoula K, and that the shot was taken not in 1978 but a little later in 1981, and that this is in fact Chrisoula K, her bow and remaining hull still attached as she slips back off the reef in tidal surge due to buoyancy and the weight of her hull and cargo? It would certainly leave an intact hull, to a greater or lesser extent, as in the tile wreck on Abu Nuhas, and it would leave an unnamed, almost identical, if earlier bow remaining on the reef in very close proximity to the Tile Wreck

Atlas: Ask Not For Whom the Bell Tolls…..   

Let us now examine the 1957 built ATLAS, IMO 5029788, is it likely or even possible this is the vessel “Marcus”? Firstly, the Bell (Marked 19(8?)56) displayed as evidence in P Collings piece would still be incorrect to the vessel and its build date, especially considering the 1957 Atlas was built by John Readhead of South Tyneside and therefore it is impossible her bell would be cast as “Atlas Bremen” unless that was her full christened name, which we know not to be the case. We also know that the Atlas of 1957 (5029788) was re-named Kapetan Xilas in 1973 and then re-named Moajil 5 in 1979 spending some 8 years stranded in Umm Qasr before being re-named Bhojanii II and being broken up at Guajarati in 1989, making it impossible for her to have been the Marcus or being the tile wreck at Abu Nuhas  

Atlas IMO 5029788 at John Readhead Wharf Tyneside c1970 (Web Photo: Courtesy Historia y Arqueogia Maritima)

The Tolling of the Iron Bell……..

At this point it would seem that neither of the “Atlas” vessels could be the “Marcus” as both have absolute ends and neither was at Abu Nuhas, the MV Atlas IMO 5246001 of 1951 is still afloat in 2015 as the Simalee I, and the MV Atlas IMO 5029788 of 1957 was broken up on the shore at Guajarati in 1989 as the Bhojani II

Atlas Specification & Data (Data Table: Courtesy Wikipedia)
The Atlas IMO 5246001 as the Siam Queen c1974 (Web Photo: Courtesy shipfinder.com)
Bhojani II Data (Web Photo: Courtesy vesseltracking.net)
Moajil 5 (Later Bhojani II) stranded at Umm Qasr during the Arab-Israeli war 1980-1988 (Web Photo: Courtesy Historia y Arqueogia Maritima)
 

Summary & Closing Comments:

Having examined the Peter Collings claim that the “Tile Wreck” is the MV Marcus, formerly the Levante “Atlas” and having conclusively proved that cannot be the case, there are still questions to be answered as there is indeed one too many ships bows on Abu Nuhas in the North Eastern Reef area. Is Peter Collings right when he states “….The final piece of the puzzle was solved by a skipper onboard one of the safari boats I had worked on. As he watched my presentation of the wrecks at Abu Nu has he recalled seeing two tugs attempting to pull the Chrisoula K off the reef. The main section of the ship broke off, leaving the bow behind, and as the tugs surged forward the ship began to sink almost taking the tugs with it.” Which indicates another wreck, minus it’s bow, should be found in the North East section of Abu Nuhas away from the main reef in deeper water, Peter Collings claims to have identified such a wreck however I know of no other divers who have had the privilege of diving it, at some 80m it is out of most diver’s usual range, although even other technical divers have not come forward with such a find or evidence of such  a wreck, it would be a newsworthy event at the least even if mainly for the diving community……

Port Side Tile Run, Chrisoula K, Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Courtesy Divers Lodge Hurghada)

  My last dive on the Tile Wreck took place in August of 2015 off the Liveaboard Blue Melody, of the Blue 02 fleet…..In true fashion the wreck leaves me with another mystery, the film is some 43 minutes or so long, missing the deco around 10 or 15 minutes of dive-time, easily explained by a battery fail on the Go-Pro, however more so, the mystery deepens as there is no record of the dive in my Navy Log….no write-up, nothing, the date on the video “properties” is 09th August 2015, that’s not possible, we were on Abu Nuhas 03rd August of 2015, we moved to Abu Nuhas from Sha’ab Ali on the 02nd after a night dive on Thistlegorm, dived Carnatic, the Tile Wreck and Ghiannis D before moving to the Brother Islands on the night of the 03rd August….but there isn’t a log entry for the Tile Wreck nor Chrisoula K, but the video is there ultimately proving the dive took place and, in truth, just adding to the enigma that the Tile Wreck has become……

Finishing Off Deco @ 3m with Craig (Photo: Courtesy M Milburn)

Will there ever be conclusive proof that the Tile Wreck is the Chrisoula K? It kind of depends on your requirement for absolute or overwhelming evidence, there is not likely to be manufacturer’s plates remaining, serialized in sufficient detail to conclusively prove the Chrisoula K is the tile wreck, and there certainly isn’t a smoking gun in terms of a hull name. If you consider the similarities of the remaining wreckage on the reef itself, then it might be apparent to you that the overwhelming evidence available indicates that the Tile Wreck is in fact the Chrisoula K. If you are a more cynical or perhaps a more “agenda” oriented individual, then it is likely you will see conspiracy everywhere you look on Abu Nuhas, and that will likely only re-enforce the “Atlas/Marcus” slant to the wreck…..for me, having (clearly from the Giannis D piece elsewhere on here) been at times in both “camps”, I have reached the personal conclusion, based on the premise “if it looks like shit, it smells like shit and tastes like shit….”  Then the “Tile Wreck” is, in the most demonstrably realistic of cases, the Chrisoula K, originally the Dora Oldendorff IMO 5092723, however, to conclusively prove that…..It seems the easiest of ways to evidence the Tile Wreck as the Chrisoula K (Dora Oldendorff), is to confirm there is only one engine in her hull, as there is only, as far as I recall, one engine in the Tile Wreck and not two, although I am going from memory here and it would need conclusive photos or video to finally and categorically close this issue……

2011 Pre Go Pro Days, Diving Off Contessa Mia (Photo: Courtesy D Aughton)

Anyhow, why not take a dive with me on the Tile Wreck, or, as I will return to calling her….The Chrisoula K

As always I am lucky enough to stand on the shoulders of giants, my thanks for that privilege goes to Ned Middleton for his superb Red Sea Wreck Diving books and to Peter Colling’s intriguing pieces on the Tile Wreck and for introducing the mysterious “Marcus” into the Abu Nuhas enigma and to Rico Oldfield for his Stunning Wreck Depiction

I am, again, deeply indebted and grateful to Mark Milburn & Derek Aughton for the use of their Photos of our dives on the Chrisoula K on Abu Nuhas

Filed Under: The Wrecks

The Wrecks of Abu Nuhas

August 1, 2021 by Colin Jones

SS Carnatic

SS Carnatic was a British sail-steamship, one of many built on the banks of the river Thames in London, not far from the mouth of the River Lea, at Cubitt Town on the Isle of Dogs in 1862-63. The Carnatic, originally intended to be named “Mysore”, was built by the Samuda Brothers for the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company (P&O) and intended for the Bombay run in the years before the Suez Canal was opened. There was a popular and regular trade route to what was a British colony at that time, India…..there were many who traded, many who served and those who lived there, all needed dependable, fast transport and a sail-steamship-operated route from Britain to India, (connecting with similar steamships running through the Mediterranean to Alexandria, with an overland crossing to Suez) was the optimum route right up until the canal was completed in 1869, some 7 years after Carnatic sailed her maiden voyage

SS Carnatic c1865 docked and loading by the look of the bales on the jetty (Web Photo: Unknown Origin)

SS Carnatic was, eventually (more on that a little later) named after a region in India, somewhat unsurprisingly considering her intended trade route. Carnatic is a peninsular South Indian region between the Eastern Ghats and the Bay of Bengal, known as the “Coromandel Coast” in Madras. The region was, again, “somewhat unsurprisingly” (given its local Anglicized nick-name), known for the beautifully grained Coromandel wood, much favoured by furniture makers of the time, and is now known as the “Madras Presidency” in Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh. Carnatic is also a form of Southern Indian music, known as Karnāṭaka saṅgītam (Online resource, Wikipedia: “Carnatic Music” accessed 11/07/2021.  )  “…..It is one of two main subgenres of Indian classical music that evolved from ancient Sanatana dharma sciences and traditions” and takes its most common form as “…..usually performed by a small ensemble of musicians, consisting of a principal performer (usually a vocalist), a melodic accompaniment (usually a violin), a rhythm accompaniment (usually a mridangam), and a tambura, which acts as a drone throughout the performance”

An Indian “Tambura” Commonly played in “Carnatic” music (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

For those of you addicted to technical details the Carnatic was built to these requirements, when contracted between P&O and the Samuda Brothers:

Carnatic was one of the earlier ships to be fitted with a compound engine, intended to achieve a better fuel economy (at 2lbs of coal per indicated horsepower-hour, against a consumption of 2.2lbs for a non-compound unit) than most other contemporary steamers. On journeys of such length as Britain to India the more economically a ship could sail, the better profit from the related trade, it also made sense as there was limited capacity for carrying coal on board. The compound engine was unusual at that time for a British ship, Carnatic’s boiler was run at 26 psi (180 kPa) due to the regulations of the day, in 1862 higher pressures were not allowed by the British Board of Trade. A compound steam engine operates cylinders through more than one stage, at different pressure levels (Until the development of compound engines, steam engines used the steam only once before they recycled it back to the boiler). The invention of the marine compound steam engine is mostly accredited to John Elder of Glasgow in or around 1850, it seems that Elder took a design by an American, J. P. Allaire, from 1824 and improved it to make it safe for marine use and more economical. The Carnatic was fitted with a Humphry’s, Tennant & Dykes 4 cylinder expansion engine, with cylinders in two pairs, using a Woolf compound system. (Online resource, Wikipedia: “Humphrys Tennant & Dykes. Woolf expansion engines exhibited 1862”accessed 11/07/2021) “…..The cylinders were steam jacketed and arranged in pairs using the Woolf compound system, with the smaller (43” diameter) cylinder being above the larger one (of 96 inch diameter). The 4 cylinders drove a single screw propeller 16 feet in diameter”. Carnatic was originally to be named Mysore, I have no information on why her name was changed seemingly “last minute”, however, she was launched as Carnatic on 12 June 1862, and completed 25 April 1863, having been constructed with an iron-framed, wooden-planked, hull and fitted with square-rigged sails described as “fully rigged”, being a sailing vessel with two or more masts, all of them square-rigged

The Woolf Compound Steam Engine 1858 (Web Photo Cut: Courtesy F. Bohringer)

According to “THE MARINE STEAM ENGINE, A Treatise for Engineering Students, Young Engineers, and Officers of the Royal Navy and Mercantile Marine”,  (Sennett, R (Engineer-in-Chief of the Navy) & Oram, H.J. (Senior Engineer Director at the Admiralty) Published By Longmann’s, Green & Co1899), a “compound” engine recycles the steam into one or more larger, lower-pressure second cylinders first, to use more of its heat energy, the number of expansion stages defines the engine, not the number of cylinders, a compound engine can refer to a steam engine with any number of different-pressure cylinders, however, the term usually refers to engines that expand steam through only two stages, operating cylinders at only two different pressures (also known as “double-expansion” engines)

Vertical Compound Engines (Web Photo: Courtesy naval-history.net)

Carnatic’s builders, the Samuda Brothers, leased a dockyard on the Goodluck Hope peninsula, Leamouth, London, from 1843 part of the “Isle of Dogs” at the mouth of Bow Creek. Joseph D’Aguilar Samuda, born in 1813, was the son of Abraham Samuda a Jewish East and West India merchant from Finsbury, and Joy, daughter of H. D’Aguilar of Enfield Chase Middlesex. Joseph became an engineer, shipbuilder, MP (Liberal Party Member for Tavistock, 1865, retained until the dissolution in 1868, then as Member for the Tower Hamlets, re-elected in 1874 until 1880) and founder-member of the Institution of Naval Architects. In the 1830s he and his brother, Jacob, partnered in an ironworks and engineering yard at Southwark

Share Certificate, Samuda Brothers Ltd, issued 23rd October 1885 (Web Photo: Unattributable Unknown Origin)

  In 1843, the brothers leased land on Goodluck Hope peninsula, (a site that was, perhaps, not ideal, being closely surrounded by other industrial premises, however, these businesses provided vital support functions initially) and began a shipyard specialising in the construction of iron steamships. The original Samuda Brothers site can be seen in the illustration below, marked as the “Old Mill” site, “Samudas did not relinquish the Orchard Place yard until about 1856” (On-Line Resource: Courtesy british–history.ac.uk/survey-london/vols43-4/pp655-685#anchorn164 Accessed 12/07/2021)

Goodluck Hope Peninsula, Bow Creek on Leamouth, London (Web Illustration: Courtesy british-history.ac.uk)

The Samuda brothers had learned the art of steam and its maritime application in the hardest of ways, disaster struck with Gypsy Queen, one of their first ships, which exploded on return from its test trip in November 1844. Jacob Samuda was killed with nine of the firm’s employees. There was a further explosion at their shipyard in 1845 and another three workers were killed, it seemed tragedy was only a heartbeat away in the early days of steam and sailing ships…..

Joseph D’Aguilar Samuda c1899 (Web Illustration: Courtesy Grace’s Guide to British Industrial History)

A contemporary report of the day, taken from the illustrated London news, November 16, 1844 and reported in the Isle of Dogs Life, “Shipbuilding on the Isle of Dogs: The Story of the Samuda Brothers” (On-Line Resource: isleofdogslife.wordpress.com/tag/joseph-daguilar-samuda/ Accessed 12/07/2021) has it that “About five o’clock on Tuesday afternoon, a most frightful and fatal accident, involving the death of seven persons, occurred on board the steam boat Gypsy Queen, lying at one of the Blackwall buoys off the Brunswick Pier. Besides loss of life, there are five persons more or less injured by the unfortunate occurrence, and who were conveyed to the London Hospital, one or two with slight hopes of recovery. It would appear that the unfortunate vessel (the Gypsy Queen) is a new iron steam-boat, of about 500 tons burden, having two engines of 150 horse power each. The boat is the first built by the firm of Jacob and Joseph Samuda, who, within the last two years, took premises in Bow-creek, for the purpose of carrying out their intention of building steam-boats……”

Samuda’s Shipyard c1863 (Web Photo: Courtesy Getty’s Images)

“……… At 3 o’clock in the afternoon the vessel left the creek for an experimental trip, having on board about 20 persons, including Mr Benjamin Samuda, the principal of the firm. She went down the river to below Woolwich in gallant style, answering all the expectations of her constructors. On her return to Blackwall she was moored to one of the buoys, where it was intended she should remain all night, and be got ready for another trip the following day, In a short time after the vessel had been made fast, an explosion was heard by persons on the Brunswick Pier to proceed from the direction of the steamer, and almost immediately afterwards, cries for boats proceeded from the same quarter. Not a moment was lost in making towards the steamer, when the most heart-rending sight presented itself to those who went to the rescue. Five persons were there found, apparently in a state of madness, running to and fro the deck, screaming with anguish, while their appearance showed that their lamentations were real. With all speed they were conveyed on shore and met with every attention. The agonizing cries of these unfortunate persons were said to be dreadful. They begged for cold water to quell the scalding heat they were suffering in their throats, and when the cooling fluid was applied to the mouths of one or two, the skin from their lips peeled off as though under the influence of a scaring iron. They were conveyed, without loss of time, to the London Hospital. It is well known to those who went on board that the above five were not the only sufferers; but, alas for them there was no means of escape; they were in the engine-room which was so filled with steam, that to get them out was impossible until the scalding vapour had escaped. In order, therefore, to facilitate their extrication, the decks were cut up with pickaxes, adzes, crowbars. Seven human forms, scalded to death, were there discovered. Six of them were shortly after recognised and proved to be Mr. Jacob Samuda, the head of the firm ; Dodds, engineer; James Saunders, also an engineer, appointed to the Gypsy Queen, and who only went on board a few hours before he lost his life; Mr. Scofield, engine-fitter at the factory of the Messrs. Samuda ; Thomas Nugent, an apprentice; John Newman, stoker ; and a man whose name is not yet known, he having been employed only a few hours by the firm”

If the report is accurate, and there is no reason to doubt its authenticity, “…the cause of the accident was found to be the giving way of the joints of a large steam-pipe connecting the boilers with the cylinders of the machinery”

An Early Photo, c1902, of Bow Creek and the Thames Ironworks Shipyard (Web Photo: Courtesy Thames Ironworks)

The Samudas moved to Cubitt Town in 1852, the need to expand coming from a growing order book and reducing space surrounding them, by now the company was run solely by Joseph Samuda, following Jacob’s untimely death. The Samuda yard in Cubitt Town specialised in iron and steel warships and steamers, beating other London shipyards to orders from Germany, Russia and Japan. By the time of Carnatic’s launch the Samuda brothers were the pre-eminent shipbuilders on the Thames and Carnatic could be considered as a state of the art sail-steamer, quite rightly an exemplar of the genre, and a worthy investment for the new and proud owners, the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company

The Mast House, Blackwall, where Carnatic would have likely been rigged (Web Illustration:  Courtesy “Picturesque Sketches of London, Past and Present, by Thomas Miller” Published by gutenberg.org)

  P&O already had a fleet of compound-engined ships built in the 1860’s, Carnatic would be an addition to the steamships Poonah (1863), Golconda (1863) and Baronda (1864). Prior to the Suez Canal opening the shortest route to India from Great Britain was to sail round the Cape of Good Hope, a distance at which steam ships were not yet sufficiently economical to be commercially competitive with sail-ships. Compound steam engines made a significant difference and, with their more dependent journey times assuring passengers of meeting onward deadlines, they were fast becoming the ships of choice. Peninsular Steam Navigation Company began when Brodie Willcox, a London ship broker, and Arthur Anderson, a Shetland Isles sailor, initiated a partnership operating routes between England and Spain and Portugal. In 1835, Dublin ship owner and Captain, Richard Bourne joined the business and they expanded services to include Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cádiz

William Fane De Salis (1812–1896), P & O Director 1851–1895, Chairman 1878–1881 (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)
Peninsular & Oriental Steamship Navigation Company House Flag (Web Illustration: Courtesy P&O Archives)

The company flag colours represent the Portuguese and Spanish flags. During the Carlist Wars of 1833 – 1876, followers of Don Carlos fought a civil war against “Liberalism”, a threat to the Catholic ways of Spain & Portugal, similar in some ways to the British “Left Wing – Right Wing” dichotomy of the present day….but with weapons. The British supported the “legitimate heirs of Spain and Portugal”, essentially Don Carlos and his “Carlists”, the three P&O founders were passionate supporters too, undertaking gun running and chartering steamers on behalf of the cause, because of this association and involvement, P&O officers are still the only Merchant Navy officers entitled to wear swords. In 1837 P&O had won a British Admiralty contract to deliver mail to the Iberian Peninsula and in 1840 they acquired a contract to deliver mail to Alexandria in Egypt. P&O was “incorporated” in 1840 by Royal Charter, in 1844 P&O introduced their first passenger services, a leisure cruise from Southampton to the Mediterranean (the first ever passenger “cruise service”), later introducing more adventurous trips, to Egypt (Alexandria) and even Constantinople, modern day Istanbul. In 1869, Sept 12th, when Carnatic ran hard aground on Abu Nuhas, breaking apart and going to the bottom the following morning (Sept 14th 1869), she was carrying 34 passengers and 176 crew. Carnatic’s cargo was mail from the Indian colonies and Egypt, cotton, bottles of wine, soda and £40,000 worth of copper sheet and gold, she sank taking with her 5 passengers and 26 crew, a tragic loss of 31 souls. What follows is the full transcript of one of those wrecked on the Carnatic, taken from the London Illustrated News of 16th October 1869, from the account of Major J.U. Champain RE (Royal Engineers), who, remarkably, along with several other passengers on the Carnatic, had just survived the grounding of another vessel off Alexandria, the “Pera”. I make no apologies for including the entire piece without edit

SS Carnatic (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

The Illustrated London News, 16 October 1869: (P&O Heritage Ship “Fact Sheet” Carnatic (1863) poheritage.com/Upload/Mimsy/factsheet/92888CARNATIC-1863pdf.pdf Online resource: Accessed 20/07/2021) “THE WRECK OF THE CARNATIC. “The wreck of the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s steam-ship Carnatic – having struck, on Monday, the 13th ult, an hour after midnight, upon a reef of coral off the desolate isle of Shadwan, or Shadooan, at the mouth of the Gulf of Suez – has been related in former accounts. We have been favoured by one of the passengers, Major J U Champain, RE, with a sketch of the position of the wreck and the people, some clinging to the foremast, others standing up to their waists in the sea, after the vessel broke asunder, on the Tuesday. Major Champain also contributes to our Journal the following narrative, which will be read with interest :– “At ten o’clock on the morning of Sunday, Sept. 12, the steamship Carnatic, a magnificent vessel of 1,700 tons, commanded by Captain Jones, left Suez on her way to Bombay. There were on board, altogether, some 230 souls and a valuable cargo. The weather was lovely and, with a fair breeze, we went at ten or twelve knots an hour. About one o’clock on Monday morning we were roused from our sleep by a smart shock, and, going on deck, we saw what had happened. The night was brilliantly clear, though the moon had set. The Ushruffi lighthouse, which we had passed an hour before, on our starboard side, showed brightly on our port quarter. Close under our bows was a long line of white surf, apparently extending at right angles to our direction several hundred yards on each side of the ship, and high in front of us loomed the CARNATIC (1863) 0083 1863/0418 island of Shadooan, some 600 ft. above the sea at its most elevated peak. At night the passengers were of opinion that the island was not more than a mile or a mile and a half distant; but when day broke it was evidently much farther, and I shall not be very wrong if I say it was three or four miles from us in a direct line. On examining our position, we found that the vessel, running before the wind at about eleven knots, had struck full on a large coral reef (plainly marked on the chart), and had forced herself into a most critical position. The reef itself lay exactly ahead of the ship, and was about a square mile in extent; nearly out of water at low tide, but about 4 ft. under at high water. Its surface was almost level, though here and there a few small rocks rose above the water-line when the tide was out. The wind was moderate and the sea by no means rough; but, lying on the weather side of the shoal, the vessel was bumped about rather ominously. From the moment of striking every effort was made to get the ship off into deep water, there being at the time about 4 ft. under our bows, 8 ft. or 10 ft. abreast the engines on the starboard side, deep water just above the foremast on the port side, and any depth under our stern. The whole ship, besides sloping steeply from bow to stern, lay over considerably on her starboard side. The passengers were quiet and collected from first to last; many of us were accustomed to the sensation, having been on board the Pera, which, on the previous Saturday, had been bumping for three hours and a half on the Alexandria bar. Every one did his utmost to help the crew, by hauling at ropes, throwing cargo overboard, and working at the capstan; anchors having been laid out astern, to drag the ship from an awkward position into what seemed to us one of still greater danger. We were nearly all convinced that the leaks, after a few hours’ bumping, would have sunk the ship had the captain’s first attempt to get her off been successful; but the general belief of the passengers was that the Great Eastern herself would scarcely have sufficed to drag the Carnatic from her place on the reef. Our meals went on as usual, and we even amused ourselves with angling unsuccessfully for the fish, of dazzling colours, that swarmed beneath us. Towards mid-day on Monday, some of those on board appeared their anxiety to hear from the captain what measures he proposed to adopt. Most of us, however, felt it would be better to remain passive and await his instructions. At half-past five in the evening Captain Jones came aft, and spoke to us for the first time, thanking us for our behaviour, and asking us to nominate a committee, to whom he would explain his views, and the condition of the vessel. Three of us, having been chosen, went forward immediately, but, as the sun had set, and the boats, though alongside, were utterly unfurnished with stores and provisions, we agreed with the captain that, under the circumstances, the weather being calm, it would be advisable to remain on board for the night, and go ashore in the early morning. “I for one went below at eleven o’clock, undressed completely, and slept till one in the morning. At that hour a man awoke me, and told me that, as the water had gained on us so far as to extinguish the fires and thus stop the engines pumping, everyone on board was to proceed at once to the forecastle. There, consequently, we assembled; and, as the wind gradually freshened with the coming day, it proved to be a rather exposed situation. The passengers, however, employed themselves in helping the crew to get cut another anchor forward and to set foresail, foretopsail, and forestaysail, to prevent the ship slipping backwards into deep water. At last, too, the victualling of the boats was commenced. “In the mean time, the angle at which the vessel lay was slowly but steadily increasing, CARNATIC (1863) 0083 1863/0418 and the rising tide was washing the quarter-deck nearly up to the companion. Some of us, after waiting hours for orders to take to the boats, went below out of curiosity, and were witnesses of a very remarkable sight. The saloon was full of water, which poured in with amazing violence through the shattered skylights, every advancing wave threatening to carry away the whole after part of the ship. Tables, chairs, and benches were careering about, washed hither and thither by the swirling water. On returning to the fore part of the ship, a climb of some difficulty, we found that the only women on board (two passengers and the stewardess), with a little girl about three years old, had just been placed in the life-boat and some of the passengers were on the point of following. It was ten minutes before eleven in the forenoon. At this instant the vessel suddenly fell back, a frightful crash told us that she had parted amid-ships, and we were all plunged with terrific force into a whirlpool. The ship had been, as I mentioned above, lying over on her starboard side, but after the shock she fell completely over to the port side; so that luggage, cargo, mail-bags, and men, with one eighteen-pounder gun in their midst, slid together at lightning speed down the deck until sucked under by the gigantic wave which had already swallowed up half of the ship. Bruised, bleeding, half stunned, and battered by the luggage, we were carried under till all seemed dark. On coming to the surface the sight that presented itself was one which I shall never forget, but which I find it absolutely impossible to describe. Heads, arms, and legs, bales of merchandise, boxes, sheep, fowls, and things of all sorts were being tossed backwards and forwards, up and down, by the rushing water. Drowning men were clutching at each other in their frantic struggles to reach a resting-place, which too many found only at the bottom of the sea. I myself was thus dragged under three times, but, being a good swimmer, I finally got hold of the foretop, which was half above water, and crawled up into the crosstrees, to take breath. In a short time, mutually assisting each other, all the men that could be seen in the water were hauled up. Being now in a safe position, we could look about us; but the foretopsail prevented our seeing the boats, or the men who had escaped direct to the reef, from the starboard side of the ship, as she went under, and for about two hours we knew not the state of affairs on the other side. At length a boat came off to us; we fastened those who could not swim and those half-stunned by a rope about their waists, and let them down. We were all taken off in three or four trips. Many of the survivors, who had struck out for the surf, and had somehow or other got through it, were standing on the coral up to their waists in smooth water. Happily, no sharks showed themselves, though in these parts they abound, and I am told a large one had been seen the day before. The bodies of Captain Pope, of the purser, and, I believe, of Mr. Warren, were dragged from the surf and laid on a bale of cotton. In each case endeavours were made to restore life, but without avail. “We were busily engaged during the next few hours in dragging the boats across the reef to the deep channel, which was about three miles broad, dividing us from Shadooan; then pulling across to the island, landing the stores there, and getting the boats over the cruel coral fringe to the sandy beach, where they lay high and dry. It was about eight in the evening when, after this fatiguing task, the wet and weary remnant of our company found themselves at last fairly ashore. The island is totally devoid of fresh water, and we had brought but little with us. Many of the casks were empty, having been placed unbunged in the boats, and some had been idiotically emptied by the African stokers to make unnecessary rafts for coming ashore. We knew that the next passing ship would be either the Sumatra or the Neaera, which might be expected at any moment. There seemed at first to be no possible means of making a signal in the CARNATIC (1863) 0083 1863/0418 dark. It was therefore decided that the chief officer, two of the passengers, and three Chinamen of the crew should launch a boat, make for the usual channel, and lie off all night, in hopes of stopping a ship. If no ship came in the night, the boat would try to beat up or pull up eighteen or twenty miles against current and wind to the Ushruffi lighthouse and obtain all the fresh water that could be spared. One rocket only could be found, and this, with half the only dry box of matches was placed in the boat. But, most providentially, several hundred huge bales of Manchester calicos and cotton cloths had floated, the day before the final break up, on to the island, having been thrown overboard, when we first struck the reef. These bales, very tightly pressed, had remained dry inside, and were of inestimable value in a variety of ways. From their contents we made ourselves turbans, most of us having lost our hats, as well as coats and bedding to lie on the sand. But the grandest notion of all was to collect an immense pile and set it alight. It was found to blaze gloriously, and one of our greatest anxieties was at once dispelled. “Before this discovery, however, we had commenced to launch the cutter, when a Chinaman ran down the bank, shouting that the lights of a steamer were visible. We strained every nerve to haul the boat out over the coral, and got away about nine o’clock at night. There was a doubt whether we should sail fast enough to reach the ship before she got by on her way to Suez; but, after putting a quarter of a mile between ourselves and the land, we looked back and saw the bonfire flaring most conspicuously. By the position of the steamer’s lights, it was evident that her attention was attracted, and at the critical moment we succeeded in firing our rocket. This settled the matter; the ship hove to, and we were soon alongside and on deck of the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s steamer Sumatra, from Bombay, with Lord Napier and other passengers on board. Boats were at once lowered, and, with the one in which we had arrived, went back for the Carnatic’s company. The wind had, however, risen, and all were not on board the Sumatra till ten o’clock on Wednesday morning, when we started on our return voyage to Suez. I cannot overrate the kindness and attention shown to us by all on board the Sumatra, and, in truth, we sorely needed help. Of all the baggage in the Carnatic, one small dressing-bag alone had been saved. We displayed our whole property on our persons, and, as we were all nearly alike, I may state, for example, that my costume consisted of a pair of tattered trousers, a shirt, and fifteen yards of Manchester calico gracefully wreathed round my temples. “The loss of life was fifteen Europeans and as many natives; of the former were five first-class passengers-viz., Captain Pope, R.A; Mr. Cuppage, 35th Regiment; Mr. Warren, Dr. Thomson, and Mr. Pidding, the ship’s purser, Mr. Gardner, and his clerk, Mr. Mackintosh, and the doctor, Mr. Ransford, with two engineers, a steward, and others. A more complete wreck than that of the ill-fated Carnatic has rarely taken place.”

The Wrecking of the Carnatic, Pictured for the Illustrated London News, 16 October 1869 (Web Illustration: Courtesy the Illustrated London News)

Recovery of the Carnatic’s cargo would have been, to say the least, adventurous in the circumstances, the Victorians were superb innovators, very often at the cutting edge of technological breakthroughs and some of that, as witnessed by the loss of Jacob Samuda on the Gypsy Queen, came at a very heavy price! Setting out to undertake underwater recovery of sunken cargo was in its infancy, it was not so many years before (1824) that Charles & John Deane had invented a bellows-fed hard hat that could be used relatively safely to spend time under water

The Use of Air Pumped Into a Hood to Rescue Victims of Fire c1830 (Web Photo: Courtesy divingheritage.com)

  It is said the Deane helmet was invented on the spur of the moment to free horses from a burning barn, indeed there are records of an extensive fire in Whitstable in 1821, where Charles & John Deane were living at the time. There is no reason to doubt that such an incident could well have seen such an inventive use of an antique Knight’s Helmet and a hose to save such valuable animals, after all, horses were the transport and work-engines of the era, no one would readily sacrifice such animals and, after all, Plato (“Republic”) had it that “our need will be the real creator” the precursor to the well-known and widely used proverb “necessity is the mother of invention”. Whatever the truth of the “invention” of the smoke helmet, by 1869 when Carnatic sank, the Deane smoke hood had developed into the Deane diving helmet and further on into the Augustus Siebe “Standard” dive dress. Standard dress involved locking the dive helmet to the divers suit by a corselet and bolts, a far safer system, not prone to flooding when the diver was working underwater as much as the earlier Deane helmet, which was held in place by weights over the suit, and otherwise unattached. It was Charles Deane who asked Siebe to improve the earlier design, and the corselet was the idea of George Edwards, the Engineer in charge of Lowestoft harbour, (gracesguide.co.uk/Augustus_Siebe On-Line resource: Accessed 27/07/2021), the Siebe system was in use from around 1830

Charles & John Deane’s 1824 Dive Helmet (Web Photo: Courtesy interestingengineering.com)

Recovering sunken spoil off a reef in the Red Sea was little short of reckless, but Lloyd’s of London had not long since been almost bankrupted by the losses of ships in the Napoleonic wars and the American War of Independence (1775-1815), Lloyd’s had only just survived and was still licking its wounds, the loss of the “Lutine” off Holland in 1799 did not help, the Lutine was carrying “……a vast sum of gold and silver…..” (Lloyds.com/about-lloyds/history/corporate-history Online resource: accessed 21/07/2021) in 1824, just 45 years before Carnatic’s sinking, Lloyds monopoly on marine insurance had been revoked with a bill that ended the restriction of other bodies entering the marine insurance market, allowing people like the Rothschild family to found alternate, more competitive shipping insurers, Lloyd’s could ill-afford to let gold sit on the sea-bed, wherever it may be…….

SS Carnatic, Abu Nuhas, Shadwan Island, Red Sea (Web Illustration: Courtesy Rico Oldfield)

   Had Carnatic not carried copper and gold perhaps the story might have ended there, however the P&O line could not abandon a wreck of such value without attempting salvage, after all, to put things in perspective, the cargo today would be worth millions of pounds. Lloyd’s, the Carnatic’s cargo insurers immediately dispatched Captain Gann to undertake a salvage operation. Gann engaged the salvage ship “Tor” and hard hat divers from Whitstable, a Mr Stephen Saffery and Mr George Rowden, to undertake the recovery of valuables and cargo on behalf of the insurers. Whitstable was the birthplace of hard hat diving largely because of the Deane family who lived there. When Charles & John Deane carried out their hard hat diving experiments it was from Whitstable, by the time John Deane was coming to the end of his diving career in 1858 (following his exploits clearing the harbour in Sevastopol in the Crimea), several families had taken up his and Siebe’s equipment and dived out of Whitstable, the Gann family was pre-eminent in this, indeed, they had 4 or 5 dive vessels working around the coast of the UK, and some even wider afield, in France and the Channel Islands

John Bevan’s “Another Whitstable Trade” (Web Photo: Courtesy The Historical Diving Society)

  Lloyds of London had helped with this by establishing a telegraph station in Whitstable to ensure they could recover as much of a cargo, or indeed a whole ship where practical, Whitstable was “the” place to go for diving and recovery expertise. More of this history can be read in John Bevan’s exemplary history of Whitstable and hard hat Diving “Another Whitstable Trade” (ISBN: 0 950 8242 5 9) and I am indebted to Ann Bevan, John’s wife, for providing my copy which has informed this piece remarkably well. I strongly recommend that anyone with an interest in the history of Hard Hat diving has a word with the historic diving society who might still have a few copies left, membership of the society will also reduce the price a little…… and maybe offer the chance to take a dive in “standard” dive dress too…..check out my dive with them in the “Best Dives Ever” section of this blog, an awesome experience!

Augustus Siebe 12 Bolt Dive Helmet c1855-1869 (Web Photo: Courtesy divingheritage.com)

When the Lloyd’s telegraph sent word of the loss of the Carnatic, it went first to Whitstable and was taken up by the superintendent of divers Captain John (Jack) Gann (Bevan J: “Another Whitstable Trade”. Ch 1.4 P 81 Para 4. 2009. Publisher, Print Alliance). Jack Gann was asked by Lloyds to go to Egypt to recover the cargo of Carnatic, specifically gold to the value of £40000 at that time, John Bevan has it that “Divers Stephen Saffery and George Rowden were sent out. The Whitstable divers were able to recover 30 boxes of bar silver and 6 boxes of bar gold by the end of September. Rowden had to return in December due to a severe attack of gastric fever…” Gann had initially been told on his arrival in Egypt that Carnatic was unrecoverable and had gone down in 40 fathoms of water, Gann very nearly didn’t continue, but, at what looks like the last minute, he decided to see for himself, and it was a good job that he did! The Tor arrived at Shadwan on the 29th of September 1869 to find Arab Dhows around the wreck of the Carnatic and had to chase them off, to Gann’s delight the Carnatic was shallower than he had been told, and accessible to his divers, indeed some of Carnatic, presumably masts, and perhaps even the bow-sprit, were still visible above the surface at that time. It is reported that bad local weather prevented Saffery & Rowden diving for two weeks until the 15th of October, from the first dives undertaken Saffery & Rowden were confronted by the bodies of those lost with the ship, but the divers brought mail, and eventually the ships safe to the surface, and then Saffery was able to get to the gold, not before having to remove one of the Carnatic’s bulkheads though, as between the mailroom and ships’ post office his progress was stopped until it could be opened up

Carnatic from Her Stern, Looking For’ard to the Bow (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Saffery managed to get through the bulkhead by the 24th October and recovered 16 mail bags and two days later on the 26th Saffery & Rowden recovered the first box of bullion, it took them until November 8th to recover the bullion and, whilst that was undertaken, Gann employed local free divers from the Bedouin tribes to recover some 700 sheets of copper. John Bevan reports “…..the ‘English diver’ worked for four hours at 78 feet. In March 1870, the wreck was washed off the reef into deep water by which time all but £8000 of the specie had been recovered”. It is difficult to see how people believe there was any of the gold left aboard, Gann was not under any time constraint to salvage the Carnatic and, at such shallow depths, in the clear waters of the Red Sea, it would be inconceivable to think Saffery would not have been able to get the entire of the gold out of the wreck, there was no danger of her slipping any deeper, having dived the site the seabed around Carnatic is flat for the discernable are around her, and no other known dangers at the site at the time. Personally I doubt anything of value was left aboard……but, in truth, you never really know……

Mail Recovered From Carnatic (Web Photo: Courtesy D Morrison Ltd)

British & Commonwealth Postal History has an example of mail recovered from the Carnatic at auction (D Morrison Ltd) and apparently “The mail was salvaged by divers on the 24th October, having been under water for six weeks. The mail, all of which had been extensively damaged, received a cachet on a printed label ‘Recovered from wreck of the “Carnatic”.’ This cover from London dated AU 28 69 has various transit cancels before arriving on November 15 1869” …..Amazing that such fragile records of the tragedy remain to this day

Iconic Stern Windows of Carnatic’s Captains Cabin

  I first dived the Carnatic in 2008 from a day boat out of Hurghada, whilst on a week’s holiday with Ellie and the boys to escape the dire November weather in England, we were staying with Mark Hill and his family and Craig Toplis, both of whom you will have heard of if you spend any time on this blog-site. Carnatic was one of “three wrecks in one dive” on Abu Nuhas and at the time I did not realise “Abu Nuhas” was Arabic for “Copper Reef” which had been the local name for the reef at Shadwan since the Bedouin free-divers assisted Captain Gann during the salvage operation in 1869. The piece in my log book is short, we passed over Carnatic on our way to Ghiannis D, I recorded it so: “THREE WRECKS IN ONE DIVE ON ABU-NUHAS-EGYPT………a five minute swim with the reef on our left took us to the Carnatic – this has the bow still intact but all from the chain locker to the stern is collapsed the stern is still there and the stern rails are hanging there but the decking is see through now with the wood rotting away…..” Not the most flattering of write-ups on one of the most historic wrecks in the Red Sea, I mean, which other wreck can say it features, if briefly, in Jules Verne’s “Around The World in 80 Days” or that it has a Red Sea reef named for its cargo? At that time I would, in my defence, say that we had just spent time on the Chrisoula K, a wreck with almost everything intact, and so much to see as to need several dives to appreciate her, a far cry from the remains, albeit of huge historical significance, of the Carnatic, long since bereft of her embellishments and finery, courtesy of Messrs. Gann, Rowden and Saffery…….

Carnatic, at the Bowsprit, Where Her Figurehead Would Have Mounted (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

It would not be until April of 2010 that I had a chance to “redeem” myself and dive the Carnatic properly….. I had joined a trip organized by Derek Aughton, another of the FSAC divers that had become a firm friend (and whom I had the British Army in common with) and who I later found out was born in Southport, just down the road from my favourite pub of the day, the Sandpiper, in Marshside….talk about 5 degrees of separation! Anyhow, I digress…..This trip was a Liveaboard based out of Hurghada on the MY Hurricane, part of the Tornado Marine fleet, a lovely boat with a very “can-do” local Egyptian crew, and a divemaster who could be best described as “contradictory”…. Eh Sammi……? So my Navy Log records: “26/04/10 Abu Nuhas wreck of “CARNATIC” down onto the bow looking through the hole for the bow-sprit & then down the starboard side to the stern windows & prop shaft & rudder – big prop for her size and age! Winding in and out of the wreck is easy as she is well rotted now shoals of glass fish and plenty more to see – small Napoleon Wrasse – nudibranchs etc really nice dive, old porthole off the stern mast great fun any direction. Plenty of penetration runs down to keel level! Great dive. Buddy Craig Gas in 200 Out 110 Viz 30+ M” Not quite “redemption”, but progress, I had spent more time on Carnatic and, perhaps you can tell, she was growing on me!

Craig & Your’s Truly at Carnatic’s Stern Deck

  If you look at contemporary engravings of the time, in 1865 the Samuda Brothers built a very similar vessel to the Carnatic called the “Mahroussee”, it might surprise you to know that vessel, built for the “Khedive” of Egypt (Viceroy) at that time, Isma’il Pasa, is now the “Royal Yacht” equivalent for the Egyptian President, a “Presidential Yacht” if you will, which I am sure gives Abdel Fattah el-Sisi a great deal of pleasure. It is the oldest surviving (active) yacht in the world and currently (July 2021) the ninth largest. A contemporary view of the fit-out of the Mahroussee (London Illustrated News) shows the likely, if slightly less lavish, look of the stern dining area of the Carnatic, the Samuda brothers had a distinct style to their ships from the examples of the day, the lines are very similar between the Carnatic and the Mahroussee, which was the larger of the vessels but generally quite similar in look. The Mahroussee today has been extensively modified from its original Samuda Brothers sail-steam arrangement, hardly surprising when you consider it is still in use………   

The Mahroussee, the Same Stern Windows Evident in Carnatic (Web Photo: Courtesy Graces Guide)

  I love the fact you can see where Carnatic was built even today, the wharf and Bow Creek are still where they were in Samuda days, the buildings have long since gone, replaced by factories and housing estates, but the place still exists. It only takes a little imagination to put yourself back into the past, back into the days when ships were made of wood and men were made of Iron, when there was no place on Earth the sun didn’t set over the British Empire and when a tiny country took innovation and democracy far and wide into what was, at the time, uncharted territory. It is not popular today to speak of Empire, and those in this country now represent all of the countries of the world, but that “new” world has lost any sense of identity, there are no more “men of iron”, just lesser men, content only with the industry of their thumbs and an intent focus on tiny digital screens rather than the vastness of the unknown territories, and the fearless ambition to discover and claim as much of it as they could, or lose their lives in the trying

Bow Creek, still tidal at the lock, meets Limehouse Cut, at the river Lea in modern London (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

River Lea at Bow Creek 1872, Birthplace of the Carnatic (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

So why did the Carnatic hit Abu Nuhas, in what was documented by Major J U Champain (in his London Illustrated News account), as almost idyllic sailing conditions  “The weather was lovely and, with a fair breeze, we went at ten or twelve knots an hour”. There was, by the sound of it, no reason the Carnatic “should” have hit the reef at Shadwan, although at high tide there is no sign of the reef if there are no waves impacting it, it was marked on the charts Captain Jones had on Carnatic at the time. To my mind the best wreck investigator I know, Ned Middleton, has captured the essence of Captain Jones situation in his Book “Shipwrecks from the Egyptian Red Sea” (ISBN: 9781853981531, of which I am privileged enough to have a signed copy) “At 10am on the morning of Sunday 12th September 1869, Captain Jones ordered the mooring lines slipped and the Carnatic sailed for Bombay. Captain Jones personally negotiated the long narrow confines of the hazardous Gulf of Suez and remained on the bridge to give his personal attention to every detail of navigating his vessel safely. Not trusting his more junior officers, Captain Jones remained on the bridge, supplementing this continual lack of sleep with copious amounts of coffee – just to stay awake. Maintaining a steady speed of 11 knots, the light at Ashrafi was sighted at 11:40pm and by the time the Second Officer came on duty just after midnight, it was already 5 or 6 miles astern – though no bearing was ever taken”

Carnatics’ Stern

Ned Middleton describes the journey and actual loss of Carnatic better than any other: (although aboard, Major Champain was asleep in his berth immediately before the impact) “the headlands and islands through which the Carnatic plotted her course, were all visible. At 1am Shadwan Island was sighted by the Second Officer – dead ahead. The Master altered course to S. 46 true and gradually to S. 51 true. Eighteen minutes later, however, breakers were seen on the starboard bow. The helm was instantly put hard-a-starboard and the engines at full speed astern. Too late, the Carnatic struck Shaab Abu Nuhas Reef” As an independent perspective than that of Major Champain, the account Ned Middleton has of the actions of Captain Jones following the stranding, although similar to that of major Champain in the facts of the following decisions, offer insight into the reasoning behind those decisions:

Abu Nuhas Approaching High Tide, the only Visible Sign, Wind Driven Waves

“Jones was most thorough in checking every single aspect of the ships condition and was quite satisfied that the pumps could handle the amount of water being taken on. Judging the passengers and crew to be as safe as could be expected, he decided everyone would remain on board. At daybreak on the 13th, Jones assessed the situation once again. The ship was stuck fast on a large Coral Reef and, although she was leaking, she was still in pretty good shape and the pumps were coping. Jones then ordered a large amount of the cotton dumped overboard in order to lighten the vessel in the forlorn hope that she would float off with the tide. There was no panic amongst the passengers although some did ask the Captain for permission to make for Shadwan Island. Jones refused. Jones was well aware of the dangers involved in moving 210 people to a remote island on the far side of a dangerous coral reef in small boats and of the deprivations they would suffer until rescued. For the moment at least, his vessel was relatively sound, they had power and considerable comfort. He also knew that the P & O Liner – Sumatra, was due to pass by at any time, inbound for Suez and he fully expected to be rescued later that day. Meals were served, people strolled the decks and, up aloft, a constant lookout was kept for a passing ship. But none came and, as evening fell, a second deputation of passengers approached the Captain with a plea to be allowed to reach Shadwan Island by lifeboat. Again he refused. Totally underestimating the power of a Coral Reef to inflict damage on a steel-hulled vessel, Jones decided all would spend another night on board. Accepting his authority, some of the passengers even dressed for dinner and the waiters served drinks before they all enjoyed a sumptuous evening meal. For some, it would be their last”

Captain Robert Pope, Royal Artillery 1861 (Web Photo: Courtesy Orr & Barton, Bangalore, India)

To dive a wreck such as the Carnatic is one of the purest forms of historical research anyone can undertake, I have waxed lyrical, in other posts on this blog, in respect to the physical connection between diver and the ship and its circumstances, and will not repeat that here, however there is still often an element of the abstract, there are those who can dive a wreck and be oblivious to anything more than “that moment” and metal, coral and fishes, completely oblivious to the essence and the metaphysical nature of wreck diving. I consider the opportunity to dive on wrecks such as Carnatic a privilege above all others, a very real and tangible connection to those of her time and, when researching the wrecks for this blog, I occasionally get the opportunity to look those people in the eye

Notification of the Deceased of Carnatic, Captain Pope Heading the List (Web Photo: Courtesy Soldiers of the Queen)

One of those lost on Carnatic, mentioned by Major Champain in his account of the sinking, was Captain Robert Pope of the Royal Artillery, born in the parish of Loth, Southerland (03 August 1831), in Scotland, to Major Peter Pope (Madras Army) and Mary Bailie Pope (Nee MacKay) and, at 30 years old, already a veteran of the India Mutiny. (a violent and bloody uprising against the British East India Company and its colonial rule in the country with massacres at Kanpur and Satichaura Ghat). Captain Pope “saw active service in the field with the Saugor Field Division during the Indian Mutiny and was present at the affair at Kubraee, the Battle of Banda, the surrender of Kurwee and the affair at Larcherra. He received a mention in despatches from General Whitlock and was entitled to the Indian Mutiny Medal with one clasp “Central India”” (On-line resource: soldiersofthequeen.com/India-CaptRobertPopeRoyalArtillery.html Accessed: 25/07/2021) only to drown as Carnatic sank. Reading of the circumstances of Captain Pope and those of the Carnatic, for me, removes all abstraction and makes the wreck a memorial to those lost, and a reminder of history, empire, and the ultimate futility of life itself  

Exiting Carnatic, Abu Nuhas, 2011 (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Ned describes the tragedy of those aboard, and the impact of the decision by Captain Jones to keep his passengers safe, a decision which ultimately would cause the loss of life to 31 of those passengers: “At 2am on the morning of the 14th, the level of water within the ship finally engulfed the boilers and suddenly they were without power and light. Now even more passengers wanted to leave – but still Jones placed his faith in the timely arrival of the Sumatra. By daybreak, however, the sea state had begun to increase and water was rapidly filling the ship. Finally realizing his ship was lost, Jones ordered the lifeboats be made ready. It was not until 11am that he allowed the first passengers to begin to disembark. Tragically, at that very moment it became too late for some. In the time-honoured tradition of women and children first, the three ladies and one child on board had just taken their seats in one of the lifeboats when the Carnatic suddenly and without warning broke in half.”

Inside the Stern of Carnatic, Looking For’ard with Craig in Frame (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

The Board of Trade enquiry (Wikipedia: “SS Carnatic” Para 3: “Grounding””: On-line resource Accessed 25/07/2021) into the loss of the Carnatic described her as a “fully equipped and well found ship” and noted Captain Jones was “a skillful and experienced officer” it went on to say “it appears there was every condition as regards ship, weather and light to ensure a safe voyage and there was needed only proper care. This was not done, and hence the disaster.” The enquiry concluded that the stranding and eventual loss of the Carnatic was “due to a grave default of the Master“. Despite that finding, in respect of the actions taken by Captain Jones to protect the Carnatic’s passengers and crew following the stranding, the Board of Trade panel stated “that when it was determined to leave the ship the Master and his officers in their exertions to secure the safety of the passengers, did all that experienced and brave men could do”. A veneration of Captain Jones’ decisions to keep the passengers on Carnatic for as long as he felt it safer than the crossing to Shadwan itself

Carnatic, July 2011. Her Stern Collapsing and Her Starboard Davit Twisted Perilously over Her Deck (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Could hubris have played a part, the mistrust of his own officers to guide Carnatic safely, Jones’ insistence on doing so himself until perhaps beyond tired, failing to take a bearing off the Lighthouse at Ashrafi, a mistake inconsistent with the experience of Captain Jones to say the least, and Jones’ own claim that strong currents had taken Carnatic off course eventually dooming Carnatic to her fate? Or, could Carnatic have been the very first of the ships said to be lost on Abu Nuhas, purposefully, in order to claim substantial insurance payments for a ship and its valuable cargo? I personally doubt that Carnatic was deliberately sunk (P&O generally underwrote their own ships rather than paying Lloyd’s to insure them, but not perhaps the cargo’s), it is a teasing idea though, Captain Jones certainly knew the Sumatra would pass by very soon, it is at least “plausible” that Jones had been tasked to reduce the number of sail-steam vessels the company owned, perhaps less profitably than they considered they could run a larger, steam only, ship through the soon to be opened Suez Canal……? Was Captain Jones so tired he omitted taking a sextant bearing on the Light at Ashrafi, or was it zeitgeist that Suez would make ships like Carnatic obsolete almost overnight? At this distance we will never truly know, but it is always at the back of the mind when mooring over Abu Nuhas…….. was only one of the wrecks deliberate, were some……. or is Abu Nuhas, truly, the mother of all fraudulent insurance claims?

Captain Philip B. Jones was born in Liverpool in 1830 and gained his Masters Certificate in London in 1858 – at the relatively early age of 28 years. His previous Commands included Columbian, Mongolia, Surat and Syria, during which time he secured a reputation as a first class Master Mariner. The Board of Trade suspended Captain Jones’ Masters Certificate for 9 months after the loss of the Carnatic, however that was of little matter, Captain Jones never went to sea again

Carnatic 2011, Looking Back Towards the Stern from For’ard (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

I next dived Carnatic in August of 2011 off the live-aboard M/Y Contessa Mia, another of Derek Aughton’s dive trips, my log book records “Red Sea “Carnatic” A great dive dropping onto the stern & back for a look from the sand back at classic “Onedin Line” stern window set & magnificent spade style prop into the stern section & up along the hull in and out of the lower deck. Very broken at midsection where we exited onto the mast & along it then back into the hull to go forward through the mid deck in & out of the tight runs passing a giant puffer fish of “bin” like proportions up to the bows & a look down the bow-sprit hole through the whole ship for’ard under the bow at port side then back in & out of the hull to the stern awesome dive buddy Craig Viz 30m water Temp 28’ fantastic!! Eanx 24% Air In 210 Out 100 Deco 9 Mins @ 4.5m”

Carnatic’s 16’ Span 3 Bladed Prop & Rudder (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

It would not be for another two years until I got back to Carnatic on another live-aboard, this time on a Blue 0 Two trip again in July, on the 31st, only one day off being exactly two years after my last dive on her. The Green Navy log records “31/07/13 CARNATIC – ABU NUHAS – RED SEA dropping mid ships on the hull which lies 90@ to port we swam the stern & through the prop & rudder & then entered the hull which is very skeletal but makes a wonderful reef full of glass fish & anemones wended our way to the bow through swim through’s & rib structures to exit and swim under the prow then pass along the whole hull to the stern to do deco! Air In 200 Out 150 Buddy Craig” There is something about swimming through the rudder and prop on a shipwreck; it’s one of those things you just “need” to do….. whenever there is sufficient gap!

Carnatic, Through her Bow-Sprit Mount, Looking Along Her Length (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

So it’s now 2015 and I am lucky enough to be back in the Red Sea and with Blue 0 Two again, this time its August and the hottest dive trip or holiday I’ve ever taken, 120’ in the shade in the evening, brutal on land but with the cooling effect of the sea it’s pleasant on deck and wonderful underwater….my last dive on Carnatic to date, (hopefully not my last ever dive on her, after all there “could” be £8000 of gold still to find….about £1m in today’s value…) and my log tells us: “03/08/15 CARNATIC Abu Nuhas Red Sea Rib out to the reef front then onto the wreck for a wonderful dive wandering from the stern & prop up through the decks which are all skeleton where the deck teak has rotted away. We did everywhere on the wreck right through which was scenic gentle & a great dive. Bow – Sprit looking back through the wreck is still iconic! Air In 220 Out 100 Buddy Craig”……. Why not take the dive with me……..

I am deeply indebted to Ned Middleton and John Bevan (via Ann John’s wife) who’s excellent research has informed and underpinned this piece. I highly recommend the books of both authors for their research, detail and thoroughly enriching accounts of a rapidly disappearing subject matter very dear to my heart

I am also deeply indebted to Derek Aughton who’s excellent photo’s of Carnatic perfectly illustrate the dives I have taken on her

For those of you who like to see research into historical wrecks Janelle Harrison wrote a dissertation on her which you can view through SCRIBD here: 47343483-SS-Carnatic-An-Archaeological-and-Historical-Analysis-of-a-19th-Century-Shipwreck.pdf

Filed Under: The Wrecks

The SS Dunraven

July 4, 2021 by Colin Jones

The Sail-Steamship SS Dunraven was built in Newcastle upon Tyne at the Charles Mitchell and Co. Iron Ship Builders yard and was launched in 1872. The ship was commissioned by a Mr W. Milburn on behalf of the Mears Watts Milburn & Company of Newcastle Upon Tyne. Powered by both sail and steam, she was planned for the route from Britain to Bombay

SS Dunraven Builders Details

Charles Mitchell & Co:

Charles Mitchell, born 20th May 1820 in Aberdeen, founded the Low Walker shipyard in 1853. Mitchell had served an apprenticeship with iron founders Simpson & Company, of Aberdeen, and following that, moved to Newcastle Upon Tyne in September of 1842. Mitchell found employment with John HS Coutts, a ship-yard owner, also from Aberdeen. Mitchell worked for Coutts until 1844 then moving to work in London, and undertaking extensive travel in Europe, France, Germany and as far as Italy. Mitchell returned to Newcastle in 1852 to set-up the Low Walker yard next to the Coutts yard, although it is not known what John Coutts thought of that at the time……

Low Walker Shipyard c1895 (Web Illustration Courtesy: tynebuiltships.co.uk)

The Low Walker yard built over 90 vessels of various types, from dredgers to Nile steamers, Mitchell, and his business partner Henry Frederick Swan, even set up a shipbuilding yard at St Petersburg, in Russia, for the Tsar, Nicolas the First (Nicolay Pavlovich) and several warships were built there under Mitchell’s direction. Tsar Alexander II (Russia’s Tsar from 1855, when Nicolas 1 died) made Charles a Cavalier of the Order of St Stanislaus in recognition of his service, a rare honour for a British shipbuilder. Mitchell & Co also built many warship hulls for William Armstrong, Armstrong had established a company at Elswick in 1847 and had become one of the world’s leading armament manufacturers. Armstrong’s own yard was too far up river to build the hull sizes necessary for warship armaments of the day. This close working relationship resulted in a merger between the two companies in 1882, resulting in a new company called Armstrong, Mitchell & Co Ltd

W G Armstrong and in the background Armstrong Mitchell & Co Shipyard on the River Tyne c1885 (Web Photo Courtesy: Tyne Built Ships)

In January 1876 Dunraven set sail from Liverpool with a cargo of steel and timber bound for Bombay, India. The cargo was sold successfully and Dunraven took on a second cargo of spices, cotton and muslin, (a thin cotton cloth used in cheaper clothing and for wrapping cheeses, often known colloquially as “Cheesecloth”) for the return journey. The outbound journey was for a time uneventful until Dunraven reached the Red Sea approaches to the Suez Canal on 25 April. At that time, navigation was far more rudimentary than it is now, relying on Sextant bearings and compass headings, errors of navigation were frequent and on this occasion, thinking they were further up the Gulf of Suez than they actually were, Captain Care and the 25-man crew sailed the ship straight into a reef

The Dunraven had gone into Sha’ab Mahmoud reef hard, and was stuck fast south of Beacon Rock, at the southern end of what is now the Ras Muhammad National Park. The “Shields Daily News”, a paper local to Newcastle on Tyne at that time, reported that “All available means were used to get the steamer off the reef and to keep the water under, but unsuccessfully, and during the day the ship was abandoned”. Indeed after some 14 hours she slid off Sha’ab Mahmoud, it is not reported if the cargo shifted or if other influences were involved but Dunraven capsized as she came away from the reef, and sunk in 25 metres of water. Dunraven’s crew, having worked hard to save her, must have been devastated, but the Red sea was an often travelled trade route and a passing Arab Dhow took the marooned sailors aboard (Shields Daily News 26/05/1876: “Loss of the screw-steamer Dunraven of Newcastle”), and, despite being declined passage on the British ship City of Manchester (the captain did, however,  provide water and some provisions) the ship reported their stranding on arrival at Suez and an Italian ship, the mail steamer “Arabia” took them aboard and ensured they were well looked after until arrival at Suez and transfer for their return to England. On the return to England, at the subsequent enquiry into the loss of the Dunraven, the British Board of Trade found Captain Care to have been at fault

Dunraven, upside down, as described in the account of the Shields Daily News (Web Illustration Courtesy: Rico Oldfield)

The vessel was discovered in the 1970’s, and was made the subject of a BBC TV documentary investigating  the possibility the wreck was a lost ship, carrying gold to Lawrence of Arabia to fund the Arab armies fighting the Turkish occupation. It was very unlikely the Dunraven had a cargo of anything like Gold, a paragraph in the book “Under the Flag and Somali Coast Stories” the lifetime adventures of Langton Prendergast Walsh, C.I.E (29/02/1856 to 17/03/1927) is fairly clear the cargo was wool: (Walsh L.P: “Under the Flag and Somali Coast Stories, UNAUTHORISED ADVENTURES”, P143. Published by A. Melrose London) “On another occasion Charlie Moyle and I chartered a dhow to take us to Shab Mahmud, a coral reef near the Port of Tor in the Gulf of Suez. There the S.S. Dunraven was piled up, with her bow high and dry and her stern partly immersed in the sea. On getting alongside of her, it seemed that she might at any moment slip off and go down stern first into deep water. As the cargo was chiefly wool, it was of no use to us. Still, in order to pay expenses we took down the standard binnacle, collected several sextants, telescopes, binoculars, and a set of new sails, and realized by sale at Suez a little more than was adequate to pay expenses”

Langton Prendergast Walsh, C.I.E (Lithograph of a photo by Elliott & Fry Courtesy: London Gazette 01/01/1890)

The description accompanying the auction of Langton Prendergast’s C.I.E medal at Sink’s auction house read:

“Langton Prendergast Walsh was born in February 1856 at Baroda, Gujarat, India, the son of Colonel T. Prendergast. Entering the Marine Postal Service in 1873, he transferred to the Bombay Political Service in 1879, before seeing active service in the Egypt and Sudan campaign whilst attached to the Indian Staff (Medal & clasp; Khedive’s Star). Soon after, Walsh found himself posted to Somaliland, in Consular charge of Berbera and Zeila, in which position he raised the Somali Coast Protectorate Police. Engaged in the operations of 1886, he was also on the Esa Expedition of 1890 and was present at Hussein Zareeba. Having been awarded the C.I.E. whilst Assistant Resident at Zeila, he was afterward Political Agent at Sawant Wadi. Retired in 1903, he soon put pen to paper and for many years contributed to the Indian and international press, publishing Under the Flag and Somali Coast Stories. A big-game hunter and member of the Conservative and Carlton Clubs, he died at home, Plas Idwal, Gunnersbury, W5, on 17 March 1927” 

Langton Walsh’s Commander of the Indian Empire medal (The Most Eminent Order of the Indian Empire was an order of chivalry founded by Queen Victoria in 1 January 1878) sold at Spinks auction house  (Web Photo Courtesy: Spinks Auction House)

A further quote from Langdon Prendergast’s memorial has it that: “……In 1884 the British government signed a treaty with the Somali Sultans, allowing them to establish a protectorate known as British Somaliland. With his soldiers, Langton was sent to the newly established capital, Berbera, and became the first Administrator, a post he retained until 1893. British Somaliland often came under attack from the Sultan Nur and the Dervishes, who once looted all the camels and cattle of the British. Langton ordered his soldiers to kidnap the Sultan’s wife and infant child – holding them until the animals were returned”    Walsh not only met General Gordon of Khartoum, (writing French language letters from Cairo on General Gordon’s behalf), but was probably the first on the wreck of the Dunraven following her abandonment by her crew and, likely, the rescuer of some of those crew noted as being “saved by the crew of an Arab Dhow” if the account in the book is genuine, of which I have no doubt whatsoever, bearing in mind Langton Prendergast’s other documented escapades, that it absolutely is accurate 

SS Dunraven, Stern, Iconic Rudder & Prop. 2011 off Contessa Mia (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

The BBC did a documentary in 1979 which featured an interview with geologist Ayre Keller (whilst in a zodiac inflatable, similar to those I used in the Falkland Islands back in my Army days off New Island), Keller told BBC reporter, Jack Pizzey, that, while working for an oil company sounding pipeline routing, they echo located what seemed to be a wreck. Keller was friends with a local dive operation owner Howard Rosenstein, (Then owner of Red Sea Divers, Sharm el Sheikh) and mentioned the possibility of a wreck to him, there was clearly some contention over this, Howard Rosenstein seems (in some publications) to have claimed the find for himself, whatever the truth of the matter, both Keller and Rosenstein were involved in the discovery and identification of the SS Dunraven

Inside the wreck of the SS Dunraven (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

Howard Rosenstein’s divers found bottles marked with the name “Webb’s Double Soda and Other Waters”, that company traded from 1836 to 1880 proving any treasure tales surrounding Lawrence of Arabia could not be correct, Lawrence did not arrive in Arabia until 1916. Rosenstein also found plates with the initials G.F.B manufactured by George F. Barnes, exhibition in London in 1873. The wreck could therefore be dated between 1873 and 1880, those dates, coupled with finding the ships name in raised lettering, ‘SS DUNRAVEN’ on the transom, completed research in the Maritime Museum, Newcastle showing the wreck could only be the SS Dunraven built in 1873 by C. Mitchell and Company

An enticing glimpse into the upturned hull of the Dunraven (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

My first dive on the Dunraven was 04th August of 1997 part of my Red Sea excursion with Fenton Sub Aqua Club written up elsewhere in this blog, we were diving from the Princess Dalal and my little Red Book describes her thus: “04/08/97 Sha’b Mahmud “Beacon Rock” DUNRAVEN an English steam/sail ship that ran onto Beacon Rock in March 1876 and sank very quickly (portholes still open when found). She turned turtle & is largely empty her cargo having fallen & settled into the coral sand. We dropped to her stern & prop at 30m then entered her Starbord side (Left from stern) then made our way through twisted broken metal along her propeller shaft to her boilers encountering Lion Fish & large shoals of glassfish. Looked round the base of the boilers on the ceiling then went for’ard to the second section to impact area where it’s obvious why she foundered”

Craig & I on the stern deck of Hurricane, prep for the Dunraven August 2010 (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

It would be 12 years until my next dive on the Dunraven, this time with a trip in 2010 on the live-aboard MY Hurricane, part of the Red Sea “Tornado” fleet, a step up from the Princess Dalal but a more “Western” boat if that is the right picture, something which loses a little in translation, where Princess Dalal had a distinct “fine wood and faded opulence” feel about her, Hurricane had a more “modern” and sanitised feel, both were perfectly good boats and I enjoyed both equally, they just represented a difference in diving in the area, less “camel trains into the desert”, more “welcome tourist divers”…… if you understand? Anyhow, my log recalls: “01/05/10 “DUNRAVEN” it’s 12 years since I last dived Dunraven and she now has a noticeable sag in her keel, there is more decay evident everywhere but she is still a fine dive – down to the stern & in on the Starbord side as she is upside down the prop-shaft is above you throughout. We wound up to the broken section passing the boiler overhead and then turned round to do the reverse course out the stern & along to the bow which is fairly trashed now but still can be discerned! After the bow we did a nice 15 min on the reef to finish off near the boat mooring. Plenty of life everywhere, very pretty. Viz 20m Buddy Craig Air In 200 Out 120”

SS Dunraven, the bow now an integral part of the Sha’ab Mahmoud Reef (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

It would be another 3 years until my next, and, to date last dive on Dunraven, this time with Blue O2, another step forward in the live-aboard boats, slightly larger if I recall than Hurricane and done out in the same fashion, a Western modern style with space for everything and a good deal of technical support, Nitrox and charging points for lights and camera’s etc, on all the Liveaboards I have been privileged to dive from the food has been excellent, plenty of choice, enough to go round and then some, I have been lucky enough to have had wonderful boats and great catering over many years now, I count myself very fortunate in that! My navy log book records: “29/03/13 DUNRAVEN – Red – Sea Down to the stern of the inverted hull through into the hull itself at the taff rail – then a bimble up through the collapsed stern interior and along hull plates in and out of the ribs to the mid-section – clear exits all the way – in and out under superstructure & alongside the boiler up to exit at the bows and then re-enter & do the whole wreck again in reverse. Fantastic and very atmospheric! Out at the stern & onto the reef to deco @ drift Air In 200 Out 140 Buddy Craig”

Andy Stringer exits the Rudder Post and prop on Dunraven 2013 (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

A British Board of Trade Inquiry, found the Dunraven’s Captain, Edward Richards Care, guilty of navigational negligence. Captain Care and the Dunraven’s second mate admitted they had difficulty identifying a light they thought was a lighthouse, whilst approaching the Gulf of Suez, on a return trip from India in what they described as calm conditions during the night. The light mysteriously went out, the second mate was left in charge and some time later, 24 April 1876, the ship grounded on Sha’ab Mahmoud. The Dunraven’s 25 crew were rescued by Egyptian boats and then transferred to vessels bound for the UK. The Board of Trade found Captain Care guilty of navigational error and Care was given a 12-month suspension of his Master’s rating but allowed to continue as a first officer

A Dive Boat seen moored over SS Dunraven on Sha’ab Mahmoud, Ras Mohamad National Park (Photo Courtesy: Google Earth)

Filed Under: The Wrecks

The Wrecks of Sha’ab Abu Nuhas

June 16, 2021 by Colin Jones

Giannis D

  The Giannis D began life in 1969 as the Shoyo Maru, built by the Kuryshima Dock Company of Imabari, Japan, as a “General Cargo Vessel” of 2,932 gross registered tonnes. Giannis D’s yard number was 471 and her IMO was 6925666, she possessed two cargo holds forward, with Bridge and Engine Room at the Stern, her dimensions: Length 99.5m x Width 16m with a draught 6.53m. Giannis D’s machinery was built by Akasaka Tekkosho KK of Yaizu, Japan, she was fitted with a six cylinder diesel motor also from Akasaka Tekkosho KK Yaizu, driving a single propeller shaft & prop, delivering a 2,200 kW (3,000 BHP) output.  The Giannis D had two reasonably generous cargo holds, three efficient deck cranes, with four “jibs” or “booms” and was capable of producing a top speed of around 12 knots

Giannis D, Fully Laden, Photographed c1980 (Web Photo: Unable to Attribute, of Unknown Origin)

The Shoyo Maru was sold in 1975 and renamed the Markos, in 1980 she was sold once more, to the Dumarc Shipping and Trading Corporation based in Piraeus, Greece, and re-named Giannis D (where the D stands for the name of the shipping company). As a general cargo ship Giannis D would have been mostly used as a coastal trader, tramping cargoes of opportunity. In April of 1983 the Giannis D, with a cargo of wood, left Rijeka (Croatia) headed to Jeddah (Saudi Arabia) and then to Al Hudaydah (Yemen)

Giannis D in Ballast, Sitting Much Higher in the Water (Web Photo: Unable to Attribute, of Unknown Origin)

It is a rare thing to be in the right place at the right time, Peter Collings, one of the earlier wreck and reef explorers of the emergent Red Sea scuba diving upsurge of the 1980’s, and a writer of articles and e-books on the area for many years, must have thought himself very lucky to come across the Giannis D, abandoned, in 1983, but yet to find her final resting place. Peter has written on the identification of several of the Abu Nuhas wrecks and it was his articles that spurred my own interest in the unusual, but oddly common fates of the “Big Four” (Giannis D, Carnatic, Kimon M & Chrisoula K) on Abu Nuhas, before I had even dived them back in the early 90’s when still in the British Army, bored, on my bunk in Tidworth and dreaming of clear Blue Sea, Pure Blue Skies and the wrecks of Sha’ab Abu Nuhas   

Giannis D, Listing to Port After Hitting Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Courtesy P Collings)

  After crossing the Suez Canal Giannis D headed south but, according to official reports, was off its course to the northwest corner of Abu Nuhas reef where it crashed 19/04/1983. At 4:00 am on April 19th 1983 the ship’s captain issued a distress call requesting the rescue of the crew in view of the severity of hull damage, a 12 meter tear, the Captain then ordered the crew to abandon the Giannis D due to her growing list, they were taken by Egyptian tug to Santa Fe platform, where a helicopter transferred them to Ras Shoke. The loss of the Giannis D being cited as “an error of navigation” is an odd statement as 240 degrees off course is an exceptional error, considering there are only 360’ on a compass in the first place! I read the testimony of one of Peter Colling’s eye witnesses to several of the Abu Nuhas wrecks, either a very unfortunate, unlucky individual, or from another perspective, one of the unwitting pawns of cynical and perhaps, essentially corrupt, shipping “traders” (for want of a better, less legally endangering term), running vessels registered under Greek home ports in the 1970’s through to the 1990’s. Mr Stephan Jablonski, a Polish mariner and marine engineer, much like my father in his Blue Funnel days, but, unlike my father in at least one important aspect, having been on 4 separate wrecks within around 5 years

Giannis D, 2 Bows and a Foremast Visible on Abu Nuhas (Web Photo: Courtesy Peter Collings)

  I will steal none of Peter Colling’s thunder here, I was fascinated with his e-book “Tile-Wreck-Final-Proof.PDF” and urge the reader to dig it out and read through the evidence themselves, it is edifying stuff I assure you! Whichever way the sinking of the Giannis D is looked at, “Compass error”, Human error (for this read “compass error by an idiot”…), or “something else” ……. it is the “something else” which has ominous undertones, it is a bizarre picture, Giannis D heading steadfastly down the Red Sea on a steady bearing when, for no apparent reason, a 240’ alteration “occurs”…… and places the vessel on a direct collision course with a widely known and shockingly obvious (from the 3 wrecked ship’s bows still prominent and embedded into it) presence as Abu Nuhas hove’s, ever faster into view, and conveniently stoves in the bow of her 4th victim….. Cue the horror of the crew (or at least those like Stephan Jablonski, at work, buried in  the engine room and holds), and the call to any passing maritime “Uber” drivers, to invoke the free lift back to port to cash in the insurance cheque for both the vessel (oddly, far more valuable than at her last purchase price), and her always very perishable and fairly valuable “cargo”….of which there is of course no sign on the deck, or in the hold of the vessel, when loss adjusters get investigators to the stranded wreckage (obviously guv’nor….it was nicked or it washed away….). Or perhaps I share an “elevated” level of cynicism with Peter Collings and his friend, and eye witness to at least 3 of the four sinking’s, Mr Jablonski……..

Giannis D, Abu Nuhas, as She Sat When First Dived in 1996 (Web Illustration Courtesy: Rico Oldfield)

The “Giannis D” is now found in three separate sections – Bows, Amidships and Stern, lying more or less parallel to the Reef, sadly only last week (June of 2021) I heard yet another careless dive-boat had moored up from her “H” Frame in less than perfect seas, the constant wear of idiot captains had long worked its punishment into her metalwork, and now the H frame is lying on the bottom rather than upright as a haven for decompressing divers waiting to be picked up by their tender

Giannis D, 2011, Divers Decompressing on the H Post (Photo Courtesy: Mark Milburn)

Lloyd’s Casualty List 22/04/1983: “GIANNIS D (Greek). London Apr 21 – Information received, dated Apr 20, states: Mv Giannis D, (from Rijeka), cargo sawn softwood for discharge at Jeddah and Hodeidah, grounded at Sha’b Abu Nuhas, approximate position lat. 27.35N, long. 33.56E, last night. Crew abandoned vessel, which is listing, and taken by an Egyptian tug to Santa Fe platform and then by helicopter to Ras Shoke. Owners signed Lloyd’s standard form with salvage tug Salvanguard, which proceeding to vessel.”

The Iconic Red Sea Wreck Shot, Giannis D’s Stern (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

  The ship was written off by her insurers as a “constructive loss” which means, effectively, there is no point in trying to recover her, other than offering her out to a salvage contract, meaning the insured will be compensated to the full value of the vessel and cargo. This was not by any means the first time, or the last, that an ageing Greek ship would find its way onto Abu Nuhas with a cargo likely to be written off by the insurers, the Kimon M, the Carnatic (an older, 1860’s sail-steamer) and the Chrisoula K beat her to the depths in a similar fashion, although Carnatic was under a British Flag when lost and is perhaps the only wreck on Abu Nuhas that seems to have had a genuine navigational error (failure by her captain to take a sextant reading of her position) cause her demise. Giannis D remained stranded, hard into the reef for several weeks afterwards, until a storm broke her in half and she sank to the base of the reef where she sits today at position 27° 34′ 42″ N, 33° 55′ 24 in 10-28 meters of water

Giannis D, When Her Helm Still Stood (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

  My first ever dive on the Giannis D, one of what would become many over the years, was written up in the little Red Wreck Log as: “03/08/97 Ghiannis D. The ideal wreck, the stern leans at 50’ or so & is broken away from the bows, a Greek freighter who ran into Abu Nuhas on 19th April 1983 So she’s still in fine condition an easy penetration as light is everywhere the engine room is marvellous the huge engines stretching forward with easy access then out and round the stern, along the port companionway & up onto the bridge area finally out along the huge gantry fabulous dive” This dive was in the days of single cylinders and stab jackets, my first ever expedition to the Red Sea off the Liveaboard Princess Dalal. I have not yet found any photos of the Princess Dalal, which is a shame, she had that old but graceful feel about her, there was not the “frills” of the current luxury live-aboards, she was more an “Arab” boat, if that is the right feel to convey, she was not the lithe and nimble, flash-dancer of the Red Sea, more the fading diva, still echoes of the regal, but with that undeniable latter-day Sophia-Loren, or Maria Callas appeal

Kimon M         Marcus                                                            Carnatic      Giannis D                  

The wrecks of Abu Nuhas have, seemingly, been resolved from my first dives in 1997 to today (June of 2021), although, as Peter Collings has it, there are still those using misleading references to the wrecks and those still incorrectly identifying the wrecks. The illustration above shows the orientation of the islet but has Kimon M as unknown (“Unbekkanntes” in German) and identifies the Marcus incorrectly as the Chrisoula K, I am convinced Peter Collings is correct when he says the main body of Chrisoula K sits in deeper water to the south of the Marcus, and that the confusion occurred because the two bows (Chrisoula K and Marcus) are lying so close to one another. When I dived the wrecks of Abu Nuhas in 1997 there was still what I believe to be the bow of Chrisoula K on the islet but the two others from Marcus and Kimon M were underwater

Abu Nuhas Bow Remains (Likely the remains of the Chrisoula K bow) 2015

My next opportunity to dive the Giannis D came in November of 2008, I had a family holiday booked with Ellen and the kids, this time in Hurghada, just a beach holiday to get away from the chilly UK November weather really, but I had Mark Hill and his family with me and Craig Toplis who had become a regular dive buddy over the last couple of years, all of us had the same idea, let’s see if we could get a ride out to Abu Nuhas  for the day….or perhaps two? It didn’t take much persuading and we ended up on a trip out on the 25th, it seemed a shame to have so many wrecks nearby…..but only dive 1…..then a cunning plan sort of edged into my mind, what if we tried to get all of the Nuhas wrecks in one go……? Could it be done, would we have enough gas, what would the deco look like as the distance itself was a little daunting, given the current that could creep up on Nuhas, Mark and Craig were up for giving it a go, but the distance and deco meant we would probably manage only 3 of the wrecks if we got that far. I was, by now, back in my Green Royal Navy Divers Log (courtesy of Chuck Russet of JSSADC from my BSAC Novice Diver’s course way back in 1990), the little Red Log having been filled by 2000 and it records: “25/11/2008 THREE WRECKS IN ONE DIVE ON ABU NUHAS – EGYPT. Starting with Chrisoula K Dropping onto the stern and round the rudder & prop She’s on her Starboard side – round to the bridge & then through the tool room past the lathe & on into the hold through the cargo of floor tiles round to the bows passing many colourful fish & corals notably 2 angel fish & a spotted ray. A five minute swim with the reef on the left took us to the Carnatic – this has the bow still intact but all from the chain locker to the stern is collapsed the stern is still there and the stern rails are hanging there but the decking is see-through now with the wood rotting away. Next was a ten minute swim to the Giannis D which again is keeping the reef on the left. We met her at the bow and passed that to reach the stern which is the main attraction. We spent most of the time in and around the bridge – passing the prop to make the corridor alongside the port side & up across the front of the bridge again plenty of life – pretty corals & dozens of types of fish five more angel fish, a big parrot fish and another spotted ray – we spent 20 mins on deco round the bridge & the gantry’s & funnel & along to the hull fracture – all in all buy one get 2 free! Great diving! Buddy – Nick Mark & Craig. 32% 40% deco Viz Monster!” You can see that there was still, even in 2008 some confusion introduced by the dive guide Nick, who was still calling the “Tile-Wreck” Marcus, in error, the “Chrisoula K”. Either way this was an epic dive and I am not sure anyone has undertaken it before or since?

Giannis D, Astern, the Starboard Wing of the Bridge & Funnel (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

I would next dive Giannis D off the Liveaboard MY Hurricane, April of 2010 again with Craig as my buddy and this dive was an hour on her alone, one of the best dives I had ever done at that time, and another of the longest write-ups I have recorded in my log: “26/04/10 Abu Nuhas “Giannis D” there is little you can say about this wreck that isn’t superlative. The Giannis is iconic – sunk in 1983 (I was 23) she is in 3 pieces – stern – mid-ships & bow. Twins allowed us to do every bit of her at the price of 18 mins of deco on the crane davit & funnel. We went from the stern down the starboard side down to the prop & round the stern to the bridge rear access doors – in to the left hand door & down the corridor – 2nd door on the right is the engine room & we spent 10 minutes or so in amongst the rockers and cylinder head then deeper down to the generator & lower gantry’s. I really spent some time thinking of the times my dad & Keith used to take us round the Blue Funnel ships in Liverpool I miss him! Out of the engine room & into the bridge down and out of the Port doorway & along the gangway to the mid-section, in and out of the debris & the hull until we reached the bows which are on their Port side across and round the fore – deck then back past the winches to see the break & along the starboard mid side to the bridge & in and around that till we deco’d off on the funnel Viz 35m plus Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig”

Giannis D Bridge, Often Full of Glass Fish (Photo Courtesy: Derek Aughton)

By now I was hooked on Red Sea wrecks, it is safe to say the variety, the visibility, and the thrill of long penetration dives on these wrecks was now all consuming. It was only a year later that I would return to Abu Nuhas and dive Giannis D once more. Before we look at that dive I am minded of the piece elsewhere on this blog which considers the conundrum of true “shipwrecks” and places them in context with deliberately sunk or “placed” attractions. It seems contradictory to hold Giannis D in such reverence as a “shipwreck” when in all honesty she is highly likely to have been a deliberate sinking on the orders of her owners, the Dumarc line. I have stated, again elsewhere in this blog, that I have no interest in diving “placed attractions” and consider them nothing more than litter….so how do we square the circle on Giannis D then? I think it is down to the circumstances of the sinking, there was nothing of the “dive-store dream” of a new “wreck” on their doorstep, solely in order to attract unwitting divers into a financial outlay, to explore a sanitised and “safe wreck” about Giannis D. Quite the opposite, every attempt had been made to construct a believable story of navigational error, every member of the crew other than those actually involved in the navigation of Giannis D, and probably even some of those officers, had been kept deliberately in the dark about the intention to lose the ship nefariously

Giannis D, The Port Companionway, Debris from the Engine Room (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

At the time of her sinking the insurers were convinced of the “accidental” nature of the loss, and there was nothing “sanitised” about the actual sinking itself….Giannis D motored directly into Abu Nuhas, indeed it is strongly believed she was near full throttle when she hit the reef, there was no concern for those aboard by whomever knew this was to be her last journey either, they were disposable, just means to an end, and that end was an inflated insurance claim….and it paid off too! Now, even today there is that element of nagging doubt, that feeling there might have been a legitimate error on behalf of whosoever was on the bridge at the time, and that “human need” to believe no one is callous enough to risk the lives of fellow human beings in such a cold and calculated, criminal financial enterprise. The absolute essence of the matter is, we will never truly know if Giannis D was a genuine marine accident, or a successful act of sabotage……..and that is where I can lay my head comfortably, Giannis D is a remarkable and iconic Red Sea wreck    

Gantry Winches, Giannis D (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

So we return to Giannis D July of 2011 from the Liveaboard Contessa Mia, one of the nicest Liveaboards I had been on to that day, spacious and well fitted, the crew and support staff were excellent throughout and the food was great too, I did not lose any weight on the trip, ahh well, best intentions and all that…but enough of that, to the wreck, the dive log records: “31/07/11 Red Sea “Giannis D” on Sha’ab Abu Nuhas This was in choppy seas and a “bounce” to get out. Down to see the mangled prop & round the stern deck past the winch & into the Port Gangway past the crew & storage cabins & down into the engine room, far too many divers with torches everywhere to be comfy. Still waited a while & managed to go around the rockers & head area then along to the bulkhead – massive Puffer fish deeper into the workshop deck level down from the engine – swam round the engine room & out of the main deck “lights” then on across the main hull debris, huge sections of hull lying on the reef & on to the bow in and out of the wreckage, great swim & the bow is awesome, lying to Port you look down it to the reef & over the deck anchor winches, brilliant view we then swam out & up the main mast, back along that to the hull break & towards the stern for an epic view of the bridge and entire silhouette of the ship including funnel & massive bridge gantry – an awesome photo for someone capable enough. One last swim down the Port companionway & out at the stern to pass the funnel & deco on the gantry Great Dive Buddy Craig Air in 200 Out 100 deco 2 mins @ 4.5”

“….round the engine room & out of the main deck lights” (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

  The main three extended dives noted here are representative of the full extent of Giannis D and although I have had more dives on her these describe the most of the wreck without too much repetition. It is enough to say that Giannis D represents the best of the shallower wrecks of the Red Sea, there is so much to explore in relative safety. Of course no wreck is “safe” there are always hazards, from disorientation to entrapment, from failing to monitor your gas or air, to missing deco stops or safety stops, but, of all the more modern shipwrecks, I believe Giannis D to be perhaps the best of them

“….up the main mast, back along that to the hull break” (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

For those who want a little of everything in a wreck, there are the darker corners of her engine room, the machine-shop workstation and its mezzanine decking, and to the rear bulkhead the electrical panels and pipework, then there are the engines themselves with open rockers running their length, and the access mezzanines alongside, where the light gives a less claustrophobic feel and the reassuring sight of exit points in all directions, through to the companionway Port or Starboard, for’ard to the bridge or out of the engine room skylights, all of which the photographer will find irresistible

Giannis D. The Engine Room “Lights” Overhead (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

  The outside of Giannis is already iconic, wherever shipwrecks are pictured it is almost inevitable you will find a shot of Giannis D’s stern, but on from that there is the bridge with its resident shoal of Glass fish and onward again are the open and twisted holds, huge and empty, with twisted metal everywhere, swim-through’s with the Egyptian Sun streaming through whilst you wind to the bows, broken from the main of the hull by the gargantuan forces of the ocean and the immovable rock and coral of Abu Nuhas, the hawse pipes and bow massive against the reef and teeming with life, and more of those darker areas to wind in and out of, lots more to see than meets the eye at first glance. It took 3 trips and twin twelve litre cylinders before a measure of real exploration of Giannis was realistic, and over the three dives Giannis just became more and more on each subsequent dive, so let’s leave her with a last and beautifully atmospheric view of that perfect stern…….

Red Sea Icon Giannis D (Web Photo: Unattributable Unknown Origin)
Take the dive with me…..Giannis D, Abu Nuhas in the Red Sea…. August 2015

I must thank Peter Collings for his e-book pieces on the wrecks of Abu Nuhas, and for the web-photos of Giannis D on Abu Nuhas as she sank

As always, I will be eternally grateful to Derek Aughton & Mark Milburn for the use of their excellent photos of our group dive expeditions, and Derek for his organisation of several of the trips themselves

I should also mention the stunning representation of the wreck site by Rico Oldfield, simply the best wreck illustrator I have ever seen

Filed Under: The Wrecks

Seeking Out Darkness

May 3, 2021 by Colin Jones

….For The Night is Dark and Full of Terrors

Salem Express 2011 (Photo: Courtesy Mark Milburn)

My very first real night dive was in Jamaica, Dragon Bay, 20th June 1994…..The bay is truly beautiful and was the location of the beach-bar scenes in the Tom Cruise film Cocktail. It’s nice to say I had a couple of beers at that bar and swam in the pool overlooking the white sand of Dragon Bay, if you want to hear more then you can read about the Jamaica trip and Dragon Bay in earlier posts in this section of the blog. As this piece is about night diving more than exotic locations let me set the scene……I wanted a real night dive, in fact I had wanted one since surfacing from a dive in the Adriatic, in the dying light of an afternoon, way back in Pula in 1992 two years since. The clear water of the Adriatic and the ever darkening blue of the sea around me was fascinating, like the transition into a deep sleep as the peripheral vision closes down and the mind drifts off into the peace of the dark of the subconscious…….

As Night Descends, Evening Shore Dive off Verudella, Pula, 1992

I had many experiences of diving in very low viz, from Chesil beach, where, literally, the lights went out at 3m and I had needed to use Toot’s thumb to repeatedly jerk her hand up to indicate it was time to end the dive, I couldn’t honestly see her at the end of my arm……..to “the washing machine” dive, where Igor & Jellico had taken me on my first cave dive, off Pula in the Adriatic. It wasn’t as if I had no experience of darkness under the sea….it was just I had never actually planned and executed a dive after dark and with all the equipment needed for the event. All that was about to change just a few days after my 34th Birthday, on the pristine white sands of the shallow bay in front of Dragon Bay! My Buddy was Steve and we had been offered the expedition camera on the strict instructions from Don Shirley….”Don’t fcuking flood it, break it……. or lose it”……. Seemed simple enough!

The Sun Dropping Away For my First Ever Night Dive, Dragon Bay, Jamaica

  The entry was a simple one and we waited till the Sun was really low in the sky before kitting up in front of the “Cocktail” bar, whilst the other members of the team were still popping Red-Stripes by the pool or on the veranda of the hotel restaurant, their kit drying in the heat of the evening. It is never easy walking backwards into the sea in clumsy dive kit, but we managed it without stumbling over the occasional coral and rock shelves in the shallow bay, and lay back into the cool water as the Sun disappeared below the horizon….time to switch on the torches and submerge…….

One of the Jamaica Shots Taken on my First Ever Night Dive

My dive log is, as usual, less than eulogizing of the occasion “Shore Dive – Dragon Bay (JA) 1st True Night Dive – Around a coral bay sometimes down to 0.5m depth – Two large Puffer Fish – a Sea Snake – Lots of smaller reef fish beautifully coloured – a couple of lg Crayfish A great dive – Air in 110 – Out 70 W/Temp 23’ Buddy Steve”   Now there was no real need for more than a hand-held torch on this dive and it showed me despite the dark, the clarity of the water makes a great deal of difference to the visibility once your eyes “dial in” to the darkness, something like the way your eyes adjust above the water at night, even the darkest night still allows you to see sufficiently to get about without slamming in to everything. In a small area like that of Dragon Bay there would be no real issues, in deeper more remote locations the ability to be seen from the surface, by those in the boat following your light beams under the water meant good, powerful torches were a necessity, it was either that, or surface marker buoys with light-sticks attached!

“…..even the darkest night still allows you to see sufficiently to get about without slamming in to everything”

  My second night dive was again in Jamaica, this time off the Discovery Bay Marine Laboratory at Mona, (another piece written up elsewhere in this section of the blog) just a few days after the Dragon Bay dive. July 01st of 1994 we were taken out in the University skiffs to do some diving with the research students as they checked out their marked observation and specimen areas. These areas often featured plastic “squares” which were made up to “grid” an area of interest, the marine life at any particular time could then be recorded, and the observation of seasonal or weather influenced changes noted, and “usual” state or “normal” established for a particular zone or reef. I would find myself noting several changes in condition whilst diving on this particular night………as the log book recalls: “Small Boat Dive Discovery Bay (Ja) Night Dive – Plenty to see Two small Leopard Rays – a huge Moray Eel – several Cuttle Fish and Lobsters, Two Sea Snakes and various reef fish – stung by Sea Wasp Jelly-Fish on ascent but great dive, clear star filled sky full of summer lightening on return – Great. Air In 210 Out 100 W/Temp 28’ Buddys Neil & Hayden”   Yet again I fail miserably to adequately describe the feelings and sights of the dive but the recollection as I type is absolute clarity…..firstly I can still physically recall the sting of the tiny Sea wasp Jellies…..there isn’t much above the surface that I can liken them too….imagine a very hot needle, a large needle, like a knitting needle say, one you had placed in a lit ring on your cooker for enough time to become Cherry Red, then imagine sticking it into yourself randomly six or seven times….not pleasant at all! I took hits to my groin, my thigh, my neck and to my face, one right on my top lip….it was bloody painful, eye wateringly so…. and they lasted for a good twenty minutes before subsiding enough to be given a stiff ignoring!

Tropical Storm Strikes (Photo Courtesy: John Kraus @johnkrausphotos)

  I did no justice describing the lightening we surfaced to in such a small piece either, if you have ever witnessed a tropical storm at sea they can be nothing short of breathtaking! As we got back in the boat it was clear a storm was brewing and the sky was getting darker and more brooding as we headed back to the Uni, lightening flashing in the distance, thankful it was way offshore and nothing to worry the little marine lab skiffs we were diving from. Don, Hayden, Neil and I had sat on the veranda of the Dragon Bay restaurant a couple of nights before, watching a storm pass out to sea for an hour or so. Rain lashed the restaurant roof as we drank Red Stripe, in silence, just awestruck at the show God put on for us that evening. I have never thought of storms as frightening, they have always struck me as demonstrations that, no matter how clever the human race thinks itself, the true majesty of this Earth will never be something mere human beings can emulate. If nothing else, a tropical storm, with its clouds flaring in hues of Purple and Grey, lit by the most intense White light as bolts of electrical energy flash the skies or strike the sea, shows just how tiny and insignificant we are…… and will always be! I loved those two night dives in Jamaica and even though I have taken many since, will always think of those as perhaps the best, well apart from perhaps the wreck dives I have been lucky enough to take at night

Stoney Cove….Dark O’Clock (Photo: Courtesy Mike Baker)


The next time I would get to night dive would be back in the UK at Stoney cove, three years later in February of 1997, by this time I had started Deep Blue Diving and opened up an entirely new phase in my diving journey. Having taken my PADI Open Water Instructor exam and decided I could supplement my day-job with diver training, so my passion was not costing my new young family to support it, I was getting into the swing of training divers and the rigors of the PADI system, it wasn’t what I was used to in the British Sub Aqua Club (BSAC) and there were others I noticed perhaps not taking their students or the course requirements quite as seriously as I believed they should be. It was clear there were constraints on what could and couldn’t be, or more correctly “Shouldn’t” be taught on many occasions but the one that stuck out most to me was “Night Diving” which some instructors seemed to believe included the summer months of the UK season, where, on completing one’s “Night Dive” before the cove closed its doors at 21:00 on the 1st or 3rd Wednesday evening of each summer month, one could note the sky was still incredibly bright, with the Sun not yet touching the horizon behind the cove walls……… I disappointed quite a lot of our trainees by telling them I would only train them for night diving or take them on night dives when it was actually dark as they entered the water. Perhaps that cost me some students, perhaps they actually understood “Night” should mean “dark” or there wasn’t really much point and their money was being wasted……..? Either way it meant I would only get night dives in during the winter months at best, it also meant we had colder and clearer water in the cove which, for those embarking on their first ever descent into what is, to them, a perhaps somewhat frightening and dark quarry, made a difference when they were ready to shield their torches and realise they could actually see quite reasonably without torch beams everywhere around them. I had become so used to night diving in the first two years of Deep Blue Diving I preferred to dive the cove with my light switched off and navigate by sight alone, that skill did not come immediately though as my log book records…. 19th Feb 1997: “Night Dive – Stoney – Leicester Tim and Another Buddy pair – 1 aborted (cold) so went on as a 3 good root round 7m Shelf & play in the pub Large Perch about and many Crayfish – great dive – fun round the cockpit – managed to tag onto wrong dive pair but re-located after 5 mins W/Temp 3’ Viz great – real choppy Air In 200 Out 90 Buddy Tim”. Two months later and I was back for another Advanced Open Water Course and took students around again: “Night Dive – Stoney Cove – Leicester A.O.W Cse (2) Trip round the well head – lg shoal of Perch about – eyes glowing – down round cockpit & on to the pub footings 10lb –ish Pike about but only 1 Crayfish plenty of Roach though! W/Temp 10’ Air In 220 Out 175 Buddy’s Tim – Barry”  It makes me smile to think my buddy’s for that evening were my youngest brother Barry and my Father-in-Law Tim, Ellie’s step-father, it is a source of joy to me to have given them both a start under the water……..

Red Sea Liveaboard and the “Aten” sinks as Khepri completes his task

The next Night dive in my log sees me under the Aten (Ancient Egyptian for “the Sun’s disc”) in Egypt’s Red Sea with the first trip I took for a couple of the members of Fenton Sub-Aqua Club, the club supported by and driven from the students of Deep Blue Diving. I had two of the club with me, John Keeling and Colin Woodall, both good strong divers relishing the chance to get away from Stoke-on-Trent and under the seas in foreign lands…..It was only day two of the trip and our first Night Dive presented itself as we moored over at Sha’ab Um-Usk, which I had misheard and which ended up in my log as Sha’ab Ummush: 02/08/97 “Night Dive – Liveaboard – “Shaab Ummush” hunting coral & fish – lots to see – 2 Lionfish together very pretty – plenty of Urchins & many Shrimps just two red eyes gleaming – two pretty tube worms, beautiful colour of corals W/Temp 28’ Air In 210 Out 170 Buddy John Keeling”

Lionfish Sha’ab Um-Usk, Red Sea (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

The difference between Night dives in Stoney Cove and in the Red Sea cannot be understated, the Sun drops very much quicker in Egypt than it seems to do in Leicester for some reason………with a full 20’ difference in temperature and still beautifully clear waters……. I would see 1997 out with one last night dive, that would be in Stoney Cove and back to single digit temperatures, taking another advanced open water course in December as my log records: 03/12/1997 “A.O.W Night Dive Stoney Viz 8-10m Dropped over well head to road then round cockpit to Pub Great Fun – Air In 150 Out 100” It seems that 1997 was a good year for night diving! I suppose I averaged a dozen or so night dives per year over the next two years, training advanced open water courses, I won’t go through them all here as they were pretty much the same route every time, (down the Bus shelter uprights, across to the Viscount cockpit, Left along the shelf drop-off to the broken pipe, across to the pub footings and through the windows, then back along the shelf to the exit, initially at the ski-hut, occasionally, later on, to the steps in the newly made quayside) and for good reason

Stoney Cove, Revising Compass Work…. Before the Night Draws-In………

  I had determined that those making a transition from sometimes only 4 open water dives at Stoney Cove, would have a harder time if I added the uncertainty of a new direction, or area, as well as the stress of kitting up in the dark, additional equipment and the primordial Nyctophobia, or “Fear of the Dark” (I have a constant fear that something’s always near…… Smith S. In Maiden. I: “Fear of the Dark”. Published by EMI, May 1992). As a coping strategy for our advanced open water students, the Night Dive of the course was always the last of the 5 we took them through, (deep, navigation, dry-suit, multi-level & night were our usual A.O.W dive choices at Stoney, the first two being mandatory), and followed the reduction of light during the deep dive, and multi-level dive and their required familiarity with the route taken on the Navigation dive, which we took them out on and then invited them to take us back, in reverse order, using familiar references along the route that we had pointed out. If nothing else, when students finally took the giant stride into Stoney Cove on a Wednesday evening in the winter months, they knew where they were going and what they should see on the way out, and on the way back in……it didn’t always prevent a student deciding night diving wasn’t for them….but I am confident it did tip the balance for many of them! I had one of my best ever dives at Stoney Cove on a Wednesday evening in December of 1999, with Mark Hill, one of those students who quickly became a close personal friend, along with Kerry his wife and his son Leon and daughters Kelly and Alycia. I won’t relive that dive here, I will, when I am ready, write it up where it should be, another of those odd anomalies that you really don’t expect, one of the very moments that make life profound rather than abstract and one of those memories you can call to mind when all around looks a little too bleak……

Clown Fish & Anemone, Up Close & Personal is easier after dark…… (Photo: Courtesy Gary Newman)

  I returned to the Red Sea in 2006 with my family, no students, just us and a well-deserved rest after ten years of training divers through Deep Blue Diving. It was time to end that journey, a new job working with the military in Andover, Hampshire, meant I had no chance to continue running dives at the weekend, only to be away from the family through the week, to return to run dives again….it just wouldn’t work, so it was time to close the pool and say goodbye to Deep Blue Diving and the members of FSAC once and for all. The Egypt holiday was closure of a sort, as one pool closes, another one opens so to speak, and in this case I would finally get to take my three kids diving myself, in the warm and forgiving waters of Far Garden at the Northern extreme of Sharm el Sheik, but that’s a tale for another post! During the holiday I got to take a night dive on Far Garden as relaxation, nothing more, my dive log records: April 2006: “Night Dive – Far Garden – Sharm this time over towards Middle Garden (Right from the Crowne Plaza) finding everything we could – Barracuda, Lemon Rays, Lion Fish – Scorpion Fish fantastic corals and great opportunity to get real close to them too Air In 200 Out 65 Buddy Mark” Another of my dives with Marky and a great family holiday with our wives and children when they were still youngsters!

Far Garden Reef, Sharm el Sheikh (Web Photo: Courtesy Crowne Plaza Hotel)

  The first real night dive I took on a wreck was on, to some, probably the most prestigious in the Red Sea, perhaps, to most, in the world. The SS Thistlegorm, sunk 06th October 1941, went from an obscure transport vessel (carrying war materials bound for Alexandria, to support Montgomery and his Desert Rats during the Libya campaign against Rommel and the Afrika Corps), to Jacques Cousteau’s most celebrated find in the early scuba diving days of the 1950’s, and then on to become one of, if not “the” most iconic shipwrecks in diving history. If there is a wreck that more people have dived on then I will be very surprised, the James Egan Layne off Plymouth, in Bigbury Bay, is perhaps the next most dived wreck, having been consistently dived on over a far longer period than the Thistlegorm. After Cousteau left the wreck, having removed the ship’s bell and several other items, (the captain’s safe being one of them), Thistlegorm once again sank into obscurity until around 1990, when scuba diving from Sharm-el-Sheik started to become something of a diving tourist explosion, since then the Thistlegorm has been dived almost continually, it is not unusual to find upwards of 10 dive boats moored over her

SS Thistlegorm, Photogrammetry in its infancy (Web Photo: Courtesy Simon Brown)

   But I digress, it was 30th April of 2010 on the Liveaboard MV Hurricane when I was lucky enough to get a chance to dive her at night, and what a dive it was, I had dived Thistlegorm 5 or 6 times before by then but never at night, my log book recalls: “Shab-Ali “Thistlegorm” a night dive on Thistlegorm for my first time on this wreck. Down the shot to midships at the accommodation & round to the Starboard companionway, to the bows & across into the Port door of the rope & chain locker room & round and out the Starboard side, across the decks to the bowser dropping into No 2 hold for a brief look. Along the Port companionway and round the back of the Captain’s bathroom, dropping into the lower deck & out the bomb damage past Snake-lock Anemones & Clown Fish & on to the shot for a couple of minutes deco Viz 10m Buddy Craig/Claire Air In 200 @ 32% Out 150” In truth, although this is, for me, a long descriptive in log-book terms, it still doesn’t give anything like the true flavour of what was a magnificent dive

The Motorcycles of Thistlegorm (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

With my diving being wholly recreational since closing Deep Blue Diving in 2006, my log book entries were thinning out to holiday opportunities and the odd dive trip once a year, the in-between diving was usually Stoney Cove to keep the motor skills functional. It would not be until 2013 that I would get another night dive in, but once again it would be something of an epic wreck and yet another Red Sea location. The story of the Salem Express is one of unimaginable tragedy, which shipwreck tale where lives are lost is not?, but what was an attempted act of kindness on the part of the First Officer, in trying to lessen the suffering of pilgrims out on deck in very poor conditions, became a scene of horror when the Salem Express hit a lone uncharted coral head, bursting the bow door and sinking the ship in under 20 minutes. The Salem Express went down at night, close to midnight in fact, headed for Safaga harbour during a storm, her decks awash with pilgrims returning from the Haj to Mecca after a mechanical fault had kept her two days longer in Jeddah than intended. Figures for the number of pilgrims aboard vary, the local version of “official” is round 658 including the crew, but, as is ever the case in poorly regulated countries the final “guesstimate” is around 850 as, frequently, unregistered passengers find their way aboard in more surreptitious manners. I have always taken the position that whatever the tragedy, diving shipwrecks, even those with loss of life, keeps the memory of those who have passed very much alive, in a truly immediate, visceral manner and, moreover, in a situational and historical context. If I am lost at sea in similar circumstances I would want divers to seek out my resting place, and would welcome my place in history being a place of pilgrimage of sorts. Not everyone will agree with me and I respect their perspective too, but their right to that perspective, not their right to prevent access to such wrecks. I understand some of the families of those lost will not want divers disturbing their loved ones place of rest, I treat all such wrecks with respect and reverence whilst diving them. I do not disturb anything in a wreck, in the same way I would not disturb anything in a cemetery, or garden of remembrance, but I do walk amongst those who have passed and would not fear others doing the same to me, how else does one pay respect to the dead and feel their continued presence amongst us?

Descending on the Salem Express at Dusk (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

My dive log records the dive on her as: “Red Sea – Salem Express – Safaga Moored mid-ships this meant we dropped down the shot & into the Port side of the wreck & went down the companionway to the bows – across the forecastle deck & to the bow door & the damage from ramming the reef dropping past the bent bow we then swam the Starboard companionway bow to stern and exited at the garage to view the props and then penetrate through the garage & up to the Port side exit. Terribly poignant and eerie until we exited and swam a little off from the wreck paralleling the decks to mid ships then into the Port companionway – down into the galley & restaurant area and on out to the stern exit – back to mid ships shot line to decompress & out Air In 180 Out 60 Buddy Craig” I mention the feeling of poignancy and the overwhelming eeriness of the dive, although I have dived Salem Express several times before and since, there is always the feeling I am entering a church of sorts, a space that invokes reverence, and although I feel that in many, if not most wrecks I dive, the Salem Express, especially at night, leaves you feeling very human, very mortal, and with the sense you are surrounded by those history has taken, who watch as you pass almost as if waiting to greet you……..soon my friends…..….but not today

Deep in the Salem Express “soon my friends…..….but not today“

  Two years later and I am back on Thistlegorm at Night, 29th July of 2013 and the dive log reads quite short: “Thistlegorm – night Dive – This was on the bows & round the main deck along with No 1 and 2 holds then through Bridge accommodation, round the bridge deck & then on to cover the bikes & the trucks & out at the bow a real treat Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig” I love the bow area on Thistlegorm, it usually attracts less attention from other divers as they are somewhat obsessed with the cargo holds. I too love the cargo holds and have spent many dives looking at the trucks, the aeroplane wings, the endless Enfield rifles and the dozens of BSA motorcycles, all fascinate and all attract the main of a dive party, so it is a wonderful opportunity to spend time in the forward chain lockers and paint stores under the bow deck, which can be swam through and around usually in complete isolation, rather than being descended on and surrounded by other divers…..it isn’t the first time I find myself seeking out the less trod path….I’m just not a social animal

Trucks in the Hold of Thistlegorm

So now to the best of all the night dives I have had the privilege of, and it will be of little surprise to find it is a Red Sea dive, the Rosalie Moller, another victim of the Heinkel HE111 raid on Thistlegorm, but a day later when the bombers of 11 Staffeln, Kampfgeschwader 26, having spotted the Rosalie Moller whilst returning from sinking the Thistlegorm, came back for, and sent the Rosalie Moller to the bottom….. The Rosalie Moller is a deeper dive than Thistlegorm sitting on the bottom at 50m, with her decks at around 40m, so she is more of a challenge than Thistlegorm, and there is nothing like the cargo of Rosalie’s “sistership”, she was carrying a cargo of nothing more interesting than coal….so why is she the jewel of Red Sea wrecks?

Backscatter from Rust Displaced by Exhaled Air in Rosalie Muller 2011 (Photo: Courtesy Gary Newman)

  I will deal with that in another piece, you know if you have been on this blog before where that will be, here is the log book record: “30/07/13 Night Dive – Rosalie Moller – Red Sea! This is the first time that I know that anyone has done a night dive on Rosie!!  What a Privilege it is! Down a shot to the No 4 hold at the stern then round the stern deck house along the Starboard rail the full length of the ship with all the deck rails festooned with Brittlestar anemones & fan corals all out and blazing with colour the whole way. Past the holds to the bridge deck accommodation & the lifeboat davits, past the winches & on to the bow over the fallen mast area & bomb damage to the bow deck house (chain locker) & over those to the bow itself then back to the main for’ard mast where the shot was for ascent. Great view of the bow as we ascended to deco & a whole sky of stars as we surfaced MAGICAL DIVE Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig”

Front & Centre….Lights on Rosalie Please…… (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Rosalie has something more than Thistlegorm, she was never supposed to be the star, always the understudy, but her presence on this stage steals the show, sat, upright as if she could continue her journey tomorrow, complete, her funnel upright and her masts in place when I first dived her, Rosalie was off the map of most live-aboards, being too deep for the average diver and being in an area that often has a fierce current running too….Rosalie was considered “too high a risk” for mainstream charters, until technical diving started to feature more on the radar and attracted those wanting something a little more off-piste than Thistlegorm……don’t get me wrong, Thistlegorm is a wonderful and iconic dive…..but Rosalie is her quieter sister….the one that can’t help but draw your eye

Rosalie Moller’s Prop & Rudder (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

  For once in this dive blog we are nearly up to date, my very last night dive….I really must do more….is logged in August of 2015 six whole years ago somehow! It is recorded thus: “Night Dive on Thistlegorm, down the shot to the mid-section Starboard Side at the bridge deck. We did the Starboard gangway past the engine and onto the bow. Came round in a running current to the Port side & on to the locker room Paint store/Rope room. Swam through that and out into the forward hold to see the trucks, aircraft wings & engine cowlings below the bowser down a deck to see the motorbikes & the carbine cases along with more of the trucks& a swim round the inner hold decks on the open to water side rather than in the loading bays. Came up & swam the bridge area & round the galley & into the bridge wings. Back over to the shot. Air In 220 Out 100 Buddy Craig” So here, somewhat fitting that it should be on the Thistlegorm, we end the saga of Night diving…. for the moment at least!

Filed Under: General Diving

The Landing Craft (Portland)

March 21, 2021 by Colin Jones

Operation Overlord & Portland Harbour….A Diving Mystery!

1944 and the allies are massing on the South Coast to take the offensive to Hitler on the shores of the Normandy Beaches. Preparations are as covert as possible and deception is the name of the game, there are battalions of “funnies”…… inflatable tanks and lorries, being placed along the Eastern coast ports and disguised in just enough manner as to attract attention from the Luftwaffe and from any German sympathisers engaged in spying operations along the coastal counties

Inflatable Landing Craft, One of the 255 On the South Coast 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy navsource.org)

Operation Fortitude and Bodyguard saw misinformation passed to the Germans and other deceptions, like the 255 Dummy landing craft made from wood and tarpaulin, and inflatables made from rubber, assembled at Dover to give the impression Dover would be the disembarkation port. Seen close up the dummy landing craft are obviously unconvincing, but from a Luftwaffe pilots perspective they were very believable…..

Dummy Landing Craft (LCT’s) Moored to Deceive (Web Photo Courtesy: Imperial War Museum IWM H 42527)

Churchill and the allies, with Montgomery commanding the British and the allies, and Eisenhower commanding the US Army and the Canadians, are building huge invasion forces and transportation caches in the Southern ports and surrounding areas, to await the perfect moment to cross the Channel and begin the invasion of Europe. Across the 20 odd miles of the English Channel, Erwin Rommel has taken charge of the defences and fortifications on the French coastline, a wall of gun emplacements and artillery backed with tens of thousands of German troops, they know the Allies are coming, they just don’t know exactly when…..or where

US Army Rangers heading for Portland along Weymouth Front June 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy T.J. Wilhelm)

In Weymouth and Portland, by June of 1944, the seaside towns have been transformed by the tens of thousands of US troops massing for the short trip across the Channel. The harbours are lined with ships and transports, supplies and ammunition arrive by train and lorry, lines of supply from all over the world, streaming in to ensure the invasion bridgehead can be sustained……..and it just keeps coming. Churchill and Eisenhower must have been terrified the Germans would discover where the troop concentrations were the highest, where the landing craft and support auxiliary craft were berthed, and when the invasion was planned. Truth be known there was probably little Hitler and his generals could do, air superiority was firmly in the hands of the RAF, strengthened by the fighters and bombers of the USAF that had been flying sorties and “thousand bomber raids” on Hamburg and Berlin since 1943. But there was always the chance that, with enough intelligence and enough will, the German Luftwaffe could have a disastrous effect on the landing plans being thrashed out under Whitehall

The view from the Aquasport Hotel Pier as it was in June of 1944, Castletown Beach (Web Photo)

The planned allied actions would involve all of the ingenuity of the combined nations and some of the most innovative problem solving seen globally to that date, the Mulberry’s, Whales and floating roadways have been examined in detail elsewhere in this blog, I won’t repeat them here. This piece is where tribute is paid to those who landed on the beaches themselves, those who transferred from troop-carriers over the side, fully kitted, hanging from rope nets slung for the purpose of access to the smaller, shallow draughted landing craft assault (LCA’s). Alongside them those who sailed ashore in Sherman duplex drive tanks and the “Hobart Funnies”, the mine-flail carrying Sherman’s from landing craft “Tank” vessels (LCT’s), and the myriad of other small work-horse landing craft, that delivered tens of thousands to their destiny on the shores of Normandy and the beaches of Utah (Pouppeville), Omaha (St Laurent Sur Mer) Gold (Arromanches) Juno (Courseulles) and Sword (Ouistreham) from 06:30 on the 06th June 1944

The Final Embarkation: Three US Navy LCTs (Landing Craft Tank) of either 1st or 29th US Infantry Divisions loaded with men and equipment at Portland. PL 25481 Part of AMERICAN (US) EMBASSY SECOND WORLD WAR PHOTOGRAPH LIBRARY: CLASSIFIED PRINT COLLECTION

  The various landing craft types in June of 1944 were varied and classified briefly and curtly in alpha-numerics, in typical military style, by their function, Landing Craft Assault: LCA, Landing Craft Infantry: LCI, Landing Craft Tank: LCT….etc.  These Landing Ships and their smaller Landing Craft would become iconic in the months to come, film of those disembarking into the tiny “Assault” and larger “Infantry” craft would roll down history, in hundreds of hours of film, of those giving their lives to liberate lands they had never seen before and to throw back the German invaders once and hopefully for all of time to come……

US Landing Craft Recognition Chart (Web Photo Courtesy: brittanica.com)

One of these heroic little craft seemingly ended up at the base of the breakwater in Portland, becoming a popular dive attraction, found not far from and along with the bombardon and its tug, which have already been covered elsewhere in this dive blog. So which type of these brave craft was it that fell before the main event, ending up at the base of the harbour wall in Portland in June of 1944? The wreck is supposed to be a “Landing Craft Tank, one of the LCT variants according to local sources and definitely, it is said, a WWII wreck, although there are no known written reports to back that assertion that I have seen. The LCT silhouette seems to be somewhat similar to an LCT Mark 5 and the profile, as seen on the side-scan imaging is certainly similar to the Mk 5. Now despite the shape and size being a “fair” indication for a Mk 5, this doesn’t make a lot of sense, firstly the length isn’t quite right, the measurements are 27m for the Portland landing craft (LCT Mk5 length c36m) and there are no LCT Mk5’s directly noted as lost in Portland, the only losses in the LCT register being noted as “lost in operation Neptune, Normandy Landings, N France, June 6, 1944” (Online resource: naval-history.net/WW2BritishLosses4Amphib.htm Accessed 13/03/2021) Now that doesn’t mean whoever registered the loss didn’t lack any more information than the operation title and intended theatre, it just seems unlikely that the only 4 Mk 5’s lost (2049, 2229, 2307 and 2498) were not noted as “Lost in Home Waters” as was the usual entry for those floundering or destroyed this side of the Channel

Side-scan Sonar of the LCT at the base of the Harbour wall Portland (Photo Courtesy of Eric “Budgie” Burgess)

The LCT lost in Portland was supposed to have gone down in 1944, so the dates for all Normandy LC variants “fit” but the profiles were distinctly different, or the size gives the vessel away. The side-scan profile shows a wide flat drop ramp with little curvature to the bow, vaguely consistent with a MkV LCT, the only other likely variant is an LCT MkV(A) or “Armoured” which you can see from the photo below of LCT MkV(A) 2012 as used by the 100th Flotilla with British Commando units (5th Independent Battery Royal Marine Armoured Support Group) who arrived on Sword Beach June 06th of 1944 in zones Queen Red & Queen White. If you look at the line of the Gunwales from Drop Ramp to Bridge (front bit to command bit) you will see the lines look similar to that shown on the side-scan image, and that the remains of the Bridge in the side-scan image resemble the layout of the Mk V with the wheelhouse “gone”. However close inspection of the side-scan sonar would reveal the Drop Ramp meets the gunwale and within a metre or so there is a reduction of height, which then seems to descend back to the bridge area evenly, although the Portland landing craft seems to have come to rest slightly stern down, as if the bow is raised on the sea bed

LCT MkV (A) 2012 (Web Photo: Courtesy combinedops.com)

Now I tried every avenue I have to determine exactly which type of landing craft sits at the base of the breakwater at Portland, I even disturbed Budgie from his Covid 19 induced reverie out in Tulum in Mexico. In conversation, it turns out Budgie knew of several landing craft in the harbour in various locations, some of them old wooden “Higgins Boat” types, long ago rotted away to remain only as engines and transmissions on the sea floor, but at least one more similar to LCT Mk5 inside, and remarkably one also outside the breakwater. Although these were present, as Budgie put it, with “little left of them that we could take a “customer” to see, we used them for Lobster mostly”, so it is unlikely there is much more to be gained as insight from local knowledge either. Budgie also pointed out most of the fishermen and “older guys” of the time, from whom Budgie got most of his information from, have long since passed

LCT737 disembarking Sherman Mine Detection “flail” Tanks Gold Beach June 06th 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy Scheldt Walcheren)

     I have no measurement for the LCT MkV (A)’s but I do have dimensions for the actual LCT at Portland which was measured by a diver (Becky9) posting on the Royal Navy Research Archives back in May of 2014 “….wheelhouse roof is missing, it’s around 27m long, 6m wide. It has two engine bays…..”  (Online Resource: Becky9 in “Post war Landing Craft – Portland Harbour Landing Craft Wreck” www.royalnavyresearcharchive.org.uk/SMF/index.php/topic,586.0.html Accessed 13/03/2021). That would make it far more likely the LCT at Portland was a “variant” as the length (around 27m) is at odds with most LCT Mk V’s which were 34.8m x 10m according to dimensions quoted in The Pacific War Online Encyclopedia (www.pwencycl.kgbudge.com/L/c/LCT_class.htm), this pushes us more towards a later landing craft perhaps, and Becky9 has a theory which has some merit. Becky believes the Portland LC is a Vosper Thorneycroft prototype from 1964, an LCM(9), specifically L3507 which is down as “stricken 1980’s” in the navypedia.org web-site (On-Line resource: navypedia.org/ships/uk/brit_aws_lcm9.htm Accessed 13/03/2021)  the dimensions are perfect, quoted length 27.5m beam 6.80m and powered by two Paxman Diesel Engines (twin prop). Even Budgie admitted there was no direct evidence the landing craft at the breakwater was a 1944 wreck, just that it had always been “known locally” as a war wreck

LCM(9) L3507 pictured in 1978 (Web Photo: Courtesy navypedia)

The clear drop from the Ramp to the gunwale can be seen on the photo of L3507 as can the high ramp, which protrudes well above the gunwale where they meet. On the prototype during its trials at Instow, (a place I know very well, having undertaken winterised and waterproofing trials with “ATTURM”, the “Amphibious Trials & Training Unit Royal Marines” as it was known when I was there), the bow Drop Ramp was level with the gunwales as can be seen in the video link embedded below. It was not uncommon to see the bow ramp changed for one with longer “reach”, (that was happening even in the war years), so the trial bow ramp could easily have been switched for one that extended above the gunwales. This fits well with the silhouette of the side-scan, which indicates a very close resemblance, and also shows a closer fit with what remains of the bridge, as the small bridge “wings” port and Starboard seem to show in the side-scan albeit with the roof on both sides missing. It would not take a leap of faith to think the roofs were thin steel, which would have quickly perished even if the LCM only went down sometime after the 1978 photo….. What doesn’t fit so well with Becky9’s proposal is how a disparity of some 34 years was “lost” in local folklore, (there were no tales of a later wreck, Budgie was explicit on that point) especially considering L3507 was described in admiralty records as “stricken”, a naval term for “removed from the records”, not a term used for “sunk”, and, as such, that means she was still afloat at least until 1980, nor does it explain how such a recent wreck could possibly have been believed to have been a WWII era loss……

You can watch the ATTURM Instow Trials of LCU L3507 here:

https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060044448

  Anyhow, when I dived the Portland Landing craft I had little curiosity in regards to which type it was and to be honest the little craft was kind of underwhelming: “13 07 97 Portland Dorset Landing Craft: Very low viz made this eerie but still little to see – the historic interest is there & the wheelhouse is still just about in one piece but the wreck is barren & only of limited interest as it is largely a skip with no cargo & a hut on it. Buddy Michael 12L Nitrox 32% 50% Deco Dry Bag”

British Commandos, Gold Beach June 06th 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy forces.net)

I am embarrassed by my curt treatment of the little landing craft at the time, I can see why the interest just wasn’t firing me up on the day, however I have always been fascinated by the war years, my mother having told me of her time as a child in Liverpool and the bombing raids, the gas-masks and the privations of rationing. I don’t really know why this pivotal type of craft, with its historic role in the freeing of half the globe from Nazi oppression, didn’t spark more in me? Perhaps it was because there was, in truth, little to the actual wreck itself, it wasn’t a complex piece embedded a foot or so in the mud in Portland harbour, it really was little more than a skip with a hut welded to it, but to those advancing under fire onto beaches it must have been a sleigh-ride into Hell itself…..

D-DAY – BRITISH FORCES DURING THE INVASION OF NORMANDY 6 JUNE 1944 (B 5103) Commandos of 1st Special Service Brigade led by Brigadier Lord Lovat (in the water, to the right of his men) land on Queen Red beach, Sword area, c. 0840 hours, 6 June 1944. Sherman DD tanks of 13th/18th Royal Hussars and other vehicles can be seen on the beach. Lovat’s piper, Bill Millin, is in the foreground about to disembark. Copyright: © IWM. Original Source: http://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205193054

In truth, until someone can make “positive” identification of the era and type of the landing craft at Portland, she seems doomed to be a mystery, like almost every one of her peers during the war years, given the most cursory of references in naval records and, in all but one case it seems, not even investigated when reported lost……. a mysterious, if ignominious end

Filed Under: The Wrecks

My Fathers’ Voyages Around…….

February 20, 2021 by Colin Jones

Helenus: Birkenhead to Birkenhead September to December 1955

In Ancient Greek mythology, Helenus (Ἕλενος) was a son of King Priam and Queen Hecuba of Troy, and twin brother of the prophetess Cassandra. According to legend, Cassandra had been given the power of prophecy by Apollo, and taught it to Helenus. Cassandra’s prophecies were always accurate but she was doomed to be disbelieved. Like Cassandra, Helenus’ prophecies were always right, unlike Cassandra though, those who heard his prophecies believed him. Helenus vied against his brother Deiphobus for the hand of Helen of Troy, after the death of their brother Paris, in the final year of the Trojan War

Helenus, Son of King Priam and Queen Hecuba, a Copperplate print depicted in a book of Greek Mythology c1670 (Web Photo)

The ships of the Blue Funnel Line were always named after the heroes of Greek mythology, or at least those appearing in the epics written about the Greek myths, Homers’ Iliad and Odyssey, and Virgils’ Aeneid. I don’t think anyone has truly established a specific reason for the fascination of Alfred Holt towards Greek Mythology, however the Victorian age seems to have had a general respect for “Hellenistic” Greek antiquity, as Thomas Gaisford, (Dean of Christchurch Oxford) says of Greek literature in one of his sermons “….not only elevates above the vulgar herd, but leads not infrequently to positions of considerable emolument” (Gaisford, T. Quoted in “Beyond The Hoi Polloi? Ancient Greece and the Victorians” Broughall, Quentin, J. June 22nd 2015. Source: The Victorianist: BAVS Postgraduates. Online @ victorianist.wordpress.com/2015/06/22/beyond-the-hoi-polloi-ancient-greece-and-the-victorians/ accessed 23/01/2021) Where Mr Broughall goes on to highlight eminent Victorians such as Elizabeth Barrett Browning, William Gladstone, George Eliot, Matthew Arnold and Oscar Wilde as being Hellenists at heart. If nothing else, an eminent Victorian engineer such as Alfred Holt is highly likely to have been immersed in the pre-eminent cultural references of his society peers……..

Alfred Holt 13/06/1829 to 28/11/1911 (Web Photo of a painting by R.E. Morrison)

But enough about Greek Mythology & the Victorians…..The journey of my father around the world started, as noted elsewhere in this blog, on the 03rd September 1955 at Birkenhead, actually out of Gladstone Dock No 2 on the Mersey River. It is entirely possible Blue Funnel Cadet Engineer Ian Jones, 18 years old and just over a month off his 19th Birthday, would have arrived on the Liverpool Overhead Railway station platform. Long gone now, the Liverpool Overhead line, a marvel of the Victorian age, terminated at the Southern end of Gladstone dock and would have been the obvious choice for those arriving to join Blue Funnel Ships as crew or passengers from a wide range of Liverpool areas

Liverpool Overhead Railway Station, Gladstone Dock South (Web Photo: Copyright Stations UK)

Dad was in for a rare treat, Helenus was bound for Australia, her regular route, and it must have seemed like all Dads’ birthdays had come at once, bearing in mind this would be his first trip abroad. I know the training at Blue Funnel’s Aulis centre would have prepared him for whatever he would meet in Helenus’ huge engine room, but it is harder to imagine what was going through his mind meeting his colleagues and fellow engineers, below decks, as the newest aboard and the lowliest of cadets? Essentially a 1st trip apprentice, exciting and somewhat daunting, I have no doubt. The Helenus was bound for  the Suez Canal and Port Said first, out with a general cargo in her holds and, not as unusually as you might think, Two Locomotives on her decks. Helenus must have been a surreal sight to those walking the shores of the Mersey at Bootle, as she headed impressively out of the Mersey estuary with Two steam trains firmly secured to her decks, a positive manifestation of the embodiment of the steam age!

Helenus, loading, Dockside at Gladstone (Photo: Courtesy of Georgie Marsh. Blue Funnel for Old timers)

Port Said was established in 1859, named after its founder Sa’id of Egypt, with a population of around 150 people, it would not be for another 10 years that the Suez canal would open, in November of 1869, allowing fast trade routes from the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea cutting out the need to sail the South Atlantic around Cape Horn. It would then take until 1904, when the railway from Cairo reached the port, for real trade to begin and for Port Said to start to attract a significant commercial community of 11000 people, the largest of the European communities being Greek

Port Sa’id the gateway to Suez 1955 (Web Photo)

  When my Dad sailed through the Suez en-route to Australia the Port Said Stadium was opening, inaugurated by the Egyptian Minister for social affairs, on behalf of the Egyptian President, Gamal Abdel Nasser, Dad would narrowly miss out on the results of the growing tensions in the area. It wasn’t until 1956, when Nasser nationalised the Suez Canal Company in the so called Suez Crisis, that Britain would join Israel and France to invade the region, battling largely in and around Port Said, to secure The Suez Canal and the right to sail it unhindered. It would be 20 years after that conflict that I met a paratrooper who lost half his leg in the conflict to a mine, Frank Sutton appeared in many of the British Limbless Ex Serviceman’s Association (BLESMA) Adverts in the 70’s and 80’s and was still picking bits of leather out of his remaining leg (remnants from his boot) even then, Frank became a good mate, sharing many of his stories from the day and was instrumental in my choice to join the army

Block Ships sunk at the mouth of Port Sa’id 1956 (Web Photo: IWM Collection)

  From Port Said Helenus would have made her way to Aden to bunker up, or re fill with fuel for those who aren’t familiar with some of the nautical terminology. Fueling up a ship of Helenus size would be no small thing, she carried between 2,190 and 2,396 tons of oil fuel, in double bottom tanks, side compartments and settling tanks and carried water ballast in several compartments at the fore peak and aft peak, totalling around 3,500 tons. Helenus was a Harland and Wolff (Belfast) ship, the same yard that built Titanic, however Helenus was a typical Alfred Holt “Lloyd’s A plus” Class Vessel, unlike the Titanic…… for those of you who love facts this is Helenus’ sheet:

Helenus Under Tow c1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy RHIW.Com)

A little more general detail is provided by Norman Middlemiss in his piece in the on-line magazine Shipping Today and Yesterday (Middlemiss N: “Blue Funnel Line ‘P’ and ‘H’ Classes of 1949/51” in shippingtandy.com accessed 29/01/2021) “The ‘H’ class steel hulls were seven feet longer and one foot wider than the ‘P’ class and were subdivided by nine bulkheads into seven holds and seven hatches. The latter measured 29 by 22 feet, 27 by 24 feet, 27 by 22 feet, two of 26 by 22 feet, one of 18 by 12 feet, and one of 14 by 12 feet. The foc’stle of all of this quartet measured 47.0 feet, the Bridge Deck was of 265.0 feet in length, and the poop deck was 26.0 feet in length. The hulls were of riveted and welded construction and carried insulated compartments for refrigerated cargo, and a deep tank was fitted ‘midships for the carriage of latex and vegetable oils with a flashpoint above 150 degrees Fahrenheit. The cargo handling gear consisted of a heavy lift derrick of 50 tons capacity on the foremast to serve number two hold, four ten tonners, fours even tonners, and sixteen five tonne derricks, a total of 25 derricks, all operated by 25 Laurence Scott winches varying from three to eight tons capacity”

Navigating the Suez Canal from Port Sa’id (Web Photo: Courtesy G. Jones)

Mr Middlemiss goes on to provide the detail missing in the table above in respect to the Engines of Helenus, although I haven’t been able to confirm this, either with Dad’s limited notes and correspondences, nor in the wider Blue Funnel arena. Helenus is noted by Mr Middlemiss as being fitted with “Parsons steam turbines of 15,000 shp at 106 rpm, double reduction geared to a single screw shaft, taking steam from two Foster Wheeler water tube boilers operating at 570 pounds/sq. inch and 850 degrees Fahrenheit to give a service speed of 18.5 knots and a ‘flat out’ speed of over 20 knots. The turbines either had impulse blading or reaction blading depending on use for ahead or astern steaming, and the boilers had air heaters and economisers, together with the necessary fans for forced and induced draught” I had initially thought Helenus may have been fitted with a J. G. Kincaid & Co variant of the Burmeister & Wain Opposed Piston Engine however that was a coincidental piece and does not specifically state Helenus as a platform, unlike Mr Middlemiss to whom I am indebted for his knowledge and detail!

Helenus in the Bay of Biscay (Web Photo: Courtesy of G. L. Williams RHIW)

So what was Aden like in 1955 and what would the young cadet Ian Jones have seen whilst re-fuelling Helenus then? Well Aden began as a British Port mainly kept as a protection from pirates en-route between the UK and India and, following the opening of the Suez Canal, it served as a coaling and fuelling station for shipping up until the fall of empire in India and its follow-on independence in 1947

BP Bunkering Services & Aden Port Traffic 1955 (Web Photo: Port of Aden Journal 1955)

The Egyptian President, Nasser, was having a profound effect on the Arab nations and in 1955, although the British still ruled the region, things were (as seen in the Suez Canal incident of 1956) getting distinctly “touchy” all around the area. Aden was no different, the British had a small presence there at the Airfield at RAF Khormaksar near the Port of Aden, where BP had an oil refinery. The “Aden Protectorate” was a huge area nearly as big as England, comprising of the Eastern and Western protectorates, basically “bandit country” awash with local Arab tribal disputes, the British forces in the area trying to resolve tribal differences whilst at the same time monitor the borders between Aden, Saudi Arabia and Yemen. Indeed the British Army were returned to Aden in July of 1955 following tribal incursions by Yemeni armed insurgents, and ambushes, one of them wounding a British assistant advisor to the Western Aden Protectorate, all in all Aden was becoming something of a trouble spot at the time!

The Port of Aden as Dad would’ve seen it in 1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy M. King)

The British Army took control of Aden officially in 1956, taking over from the RAF regiment who were responsible for the protection of the Airfield at Khormaksar and the Port area up until that year. The RAF Regiment had just lost a wing commander and a levy soldier in an ambush at Wadi Hatib, with many others wounded. Squadron Leader Archibald Stewart commanded the evacuation of those soldiers, winning the Military Cross for his “sterling qualities of leadership under considerable pressure and amidst the chaos of the fight” (RAF Regiment Heritage Centre: “Squadron Leader “Jock” Stewart MC”. rafregimentheritagecentre.org.uk on-line resource accessed 06/02/2021), whilst under very accurate sniper fire. In all eight were killed and seven more seriously wounded before the patrol, guided by Squadron Leader Stewart, reached safety

British Troops in Aden 1955 (Photo: Courtesy of Col R. Stewart DSO M.P.)

I doubt there was very much time between bunkering the Helenus and the journey on to Australia. The Blue Funnel line was not a cruise operator and, despite the passengers often carried on her ships right into the 1970’s, there would be issues surrounding passenger safety in the circumstances, and likely restrictions on runs ashore too. I never heard my Father speak of Aden and suppose from that either he didn’t go ashore or, if he did, there was perhaps little of note beyond the bunkering dock and the port area. If nothing else though, Aden would have been the first port outside of Liverpool that my father had set foot in and it would have definitely left an impression following the trip through Port Said and up the Suez 

An Arab Dhow Offloading in the Port of Aden 1955 (Web Photo)

 Following the brief stop in Aden Helenus was bound for Albany, finally reaching Australia and the major open ocean stage of her journey, it would be necessary to top off her bunkers again and it seems Albany was the port of choice for Bluey’s on the Australian run to do so. Albany is surrounded by beaches and nowadays is a major tourist location, in 1955 Albany was renowned for whaling, the major employment of locals at the time. Albany only closed its whaling station down in 1978 making it the last whaling station in the Southern hemisphere and, indeed, the last ever English speaking whaling station. Albany sits within King George Sound on the Southern Coast of Western Australia, it would be Princess Royal Harbour Helenus was bound for, with the City of Albany located next to the Port, sitting at the base of Mount Adelaide. The approaches to the port are between Point Possession and Point King through a channel called, oddly, Ataturk Entrance

Blue Funnel Routes to Australia (Web Photo)

From my time living in Istanbul I know “Ataturk” to mean “Father of the Turks”, a title given to Mustafa Kemal (born Ali Rıza oğlu Mustafa, in Thessaloniki), by the Turkish people in honour of his defence of Gallipoli against the Australian and British forces in the 1914-1918 war. There is a memorial piece elsewhere on this site in the “Best Dives Ever” section that might lead you to conclude that the Australians named the channel in honour of Mustafa Kemal Pasha, for his humility in victory and his compassion for those who attacked his lands. Kemal Atatürk is widely credited as having said of the Allied Army dead “There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side in this country of ours. You the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears. Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well” It would not be hard to see why Albany would honour such a sentiment and such a man in this way, it is also telling that Albany was the port of departure for troopships going to join the allied armies in the First World War

Port of Albany Western Australia (Web Photo)

From Albany Helenus was bound for Adelaide, further down the coast, Adelaide was Australia’s third largest city and was prosperous and had benefited from the industry required in World War 2 with US car manufacturers Chrysler and General Motors having factories there. In 1955 Adelaide was Australia’s “Motor City” and its infrastructure was growing to meet the need, new pipelines and a new airport had just opened at West Beach and Adelaide’s’ shipbuilding industry, blast furnace and steelworks, had expanded at the nearby port of Whyalla. At some point during the journey down the Australian South Coast Helenus’ 5th Engineer developed Appendicitis and was put ashore for treatment, leaving a gap eventually filled by John Chapman for the return journey. John held a Chief Engineer’s ticket and, co-incidentally was returning to the UK at the time (E.W.Forshaw 6th Engineer Helenus: to C Jones in “Blue Funnel for Old-timers” Facebook Page)

Port Adelaide 1955 (Web Photo: D. Darian. Courtesy of the State Library of South Australia)

  Adelaide had been built to a design proposed by Colonel William Light (his memorial sits on a local hill called Montefiore, looking out over the bay), it is a grid pattern, based on Greek and Renaissance ideas and influenced by the lay of the American city of Philadelphia, with wide avenues and public parks, making it a very pleasant city to live and work in. Unlike Albany in 1955, Adelaide would have had a more urban appearance, a heavier density of population around its shoreline and perhaps more to offer those going ashore between watches, it certainly had some wonderful beachfront along the coast as the photo of Hallet Cove testifies?

Hallet Cove Beach & Beach Huts 1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy W. Priess)

    Adelaide was to be quickly followed by Melbourne, in 1955 Australia’s first state Governor Charles Hotham was inaugurated, the Melbourne Museum opened and Majestic Class, Light Fleet Aircraft Carrier, HMAS Melbourne was commissioned. Although she had been laid down towards the end of World War 2 (15th April 1943) and launched partially complete in 1945, work on her had stopped until the establishment of an Australian naval fleet air arm (1946), to mimic the British Fleet Air Arm. At that point the “Majestic” along with her sistership “Terrible” (surely not the most appropriate name for a ship…..) were approved to be converted into Aircraft carriers and the “Modified Majestic Class” carriers were born. Dad wouldn’t have seen the HMAS Melbourne on his trip as she didn’t arrive in Australia (Freemantle) until 23 April, St George’s Day, 1956 after making the very same journey the Helenus had taken via Suez, but he would have surely known of her construction and her anticipated delivery

HMAS Melbourne & a Wessex Helicopter (Web Photo: Royal Australian Navy)

Melbourne was a cosmopolitan city and had thrived during and after WWII, essentially a modern and well established city where life would not have been so far from that in Liverpool, home of the Blue Funnel Line and Dad’s home town. The city streets would have been a reminder of home, perhaps enough to make a young lad a little homesick, but perhaps a place to explore and enjoy as a 19 year old half a world away from Leather’s Lane in Halewood, something vaguely familiar, but something completely different to Dads’ actual home

Down Town Melbourne c1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy Heraldsun)

The stop in Melbourne over, Helenus made her way to Sydney, capitol of New South Wales, something that might have amused Dad, half our family being very recent Welsh descendants, my Grandfather Glynn, his father, actually being Welsh…. When Helenus docked she would have been on Walsh Bay in one of berths 1 to 10, just a short walk from Circular Quay, St Georges, as those on Facebook’s “Blue Funnel for old timers” page will attest, and to whom I am especially grateful for the route and cargo details, along with the ports of call and some of the photo’s in this piece. August of 1955 had seen record rainfalls in Southern Australia, not for the first time that year, back in February lives were lost in the Murray-Darling Basin when the Hunter River at Newcastle, North of Sydney, burst her banks. Around Sydney, by August, there was significant flooding after further heavy rainfall, not the weather you’d expect in Australia by any stretch of the imagination. It might amuse those of a certain age to note that Dame Edna Everage, that Iconic Australian Diva, made “her” first appearance on the stage (Melbourne) in 1955, although I don’t believe Australia’s Cultural Attaché Les Patterson, by far the more eloquent of the two, appeared until later

Helenus Enters Sydney 1955 (Photo: Courtesy of B. Kirk “Blue Funnel for old Timers”)

Whilst the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge had long since been forged and transported from Tyneside, now elegantly spanning the entrance to Sydney Port, there was nothing on the point at Bennelong but the Fort Macquarie Tram Depot. The Depot was eventually demolished to make way for, what is now the most recognizable cultural reference in Sydney, the Sydney Opera House. Work would not begin on that engineering “miracle of its time” until 1959, following Danish architect Jorn Utzon winning of a competition to design “a National Opera House at Bennelong Point” in order to “…mould a better and more enlightened community” (J.J. Cahill, NSW Premier. Addressing a conference to construct an Opera House, Sydney. 1954) The eventual construction of Sydney Opera house would, as public edifices often do, go way over budget, and eventually see Jorn Utzon leave Australia, never to return, in 1966 following payment being wrongly withheld by the Australian Government

Bennelong Point & Fort Macquarie Tram Depot c1955 (Web Photo Courtesy: Sydney Morning Herald)

Sydney had notoriously begun life in 1788 when Captain Arthur Phillip disembarked his cargo of some 1500 passengers, mostly convicts, in order to take on water from “Tank Stream” and thus establishing Port Jackson, or as it has long since become known, Sydney, as the first penal settlement in New South Wales. The Sydney Port Authority can trace its management of the harbour back to the first appointed harbourmaster in 1811, he would have been responsible for the commerce of the wharf, its privately owned piers and buildings, and the loading and unloading of those ships berthing along the quays

Alfred St at Circular Quay Sydney 1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy Sydney Tram Museum)

It would have been the wharf’s and quays at Walsh Bay where Dad docked with Helenus, looking at the photo of the Blue Funnel dock it is hard to believe that was 1955, if it wasn’t for the high rise flats behind the wharf you would be excused for thinking this was the 1920’s. There were plenty of places to see in Sydney but if the “chat” on the Blue Funnel for old timer’s page is anything to go by then the “Captain Cook” and the “Lord Nelson”, close to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, were popular with Blue Funnel employees, as was the “Ship Inn”, a little closer, situated at Circular Quay. It’s my ambition, one of the “Bucket List” activities I’m determined to get through, to eventually see if any of these places are still there, and have a pint somewhere Dad would’ve undoubtedly visited

Blue Funnel Wharf at Walsh Bay Sydney (Photo Courtesy: G. Marsh. Blue Funnel Old Timers, Facebook)

Leaving Sydney the Helenus was bound for Brisbane, her last stop before heading back home to Liverpool. Brisbane was a port on the rise in 1955, it had been established as a river port back in the years following Captain Cook, surrounded by sheltered Salt Marsh and Mangrove, the river basin must have been a convenient source of fresh water at the time. It would not be until the building of the Dry Dock at South Brisbane in 1876, that Brisbane could take advantage of the shipping visiting Australia, needing maintenance and repair following epic journeys from all over the globe

Brisbane Mangrove Survey 2016 (Photo Courtesy: portbris.com.au)

Brisbane’s Dry Dock completed in 1881 with the spoils taken from the construction being used to construct parts of Brisbane town streets, it would not be until the 1940’s and World War II that the dock was extended downstream, and Cairncross Dock was added. By the 1950’s Brisbane had a large city hospital, an impressive Museum and Art Gallery and a popular surf club at Mooloolaba on the Mooloolah River and by 1955 Brisbane was a well-established port of call for the Blue Funnel line ships. Global Industry had arrived at Brisbane, Caterpillar, the American construction equipment giant was opening its factory there, and things were getting bigger and better for Brisbane! Did Dad visit the Surf Club or perhaps the Museum…..?

Mooloolaba Beach on the Mooloolah River 1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy Pinterest)

I won’t ever know if Dad got to Mooloolah River, but if there was sufficient time ashore, without the worry of watches and keeping Helenus’ engines and transmissions in pristine condition, they are just the kind of places a 19 year old was likely to want to see in 1955! I am grateful to Eric (E.W.) Forshaw of the Blue Funnel Old Timers Facebook page for the information on Dad’s 1955 trip, Eric was 6th Engineer on the trip and would have at least had a passing acquaintance with my father, although just how much I don’t know and Eric doesn’t remember. I suppose a cadet engineer on his first ever trip abroad would be more of a liability to those responsible for the smooth running of such a complex and prized ship as Helenus, but everyone has to learn, and cadet’s, like anyone else, are only as good as the training they receive

Unloading a Loco in Australia c1955 (Web Photo Courtesy:  Blue Funnel for Old-timers)

The blue Funnel Line was known for producing the best of mariners, whatever their position aboard, from able bodies on deck, to engineers below deck and watch officers, even masters on the bridge….I have no doubt Dad was trained well, and I know he loved his time aboard Helenus, of that I have never had any doubt! So, It was done, the journey had reached its end point, now all that remained was to “turn her about” and make the trip home to Gladstone No2 Dock in time for Christmas…..

One of the Blue Funnel Engines (Diomed) Dad would come to know (Photo: Courtesy of Blue Funnel for Old timers)

Well that would depend on the ports of call on the way back. with the locos delivered safely ashore and the various other cargoes collected, dropped off, and taken between ports of call along the Australian coast, Helenus job was far from over, there would be cargoes to take back to ports on the return journey, wool, chilled Beef and tinned fruit are all mentioned by Eric Forshaw, and more “general cargo” besides, Helenus would call at those ports she had already docked at for the return from Brisbane to Sydney

Sydney Harbour on the return journey (Photo Courtesy: G. Marsh Blue Funnel for Old-timers)

From Sydney to Melbourne, then Adelaide and Albany, then back across to Aden and Port Said, the only real difference being a call into Genoa, now Eric doesn’t elaborate on why Genoa was included but it must have been cargo related to make such a change whilst going back, I doubt Dad minded one bit, another port, another country to see and all this on your first trip out of the UK, for a cadet of 19 the Blue Funnel Line was everything a Liverpool lad might wish for, and more……..

Traders hawking everything imaginable from “Bum Boats” at Aden 1950’s (Web Photo)

Genoa, one of the most important ports of the Mediterranean sea, and capital of the region of Liguria, is the 6th largest city in Italy and would have perhaps represented the height of European chic in 1955. Ever a nation of fashion conscious and erudite young people the Hollywood film stars of the day, at least the female film stars, were largely Italian, Silvano Mangano, Gina lollobrigida, Sophie Loren, Claudia Cardinale…. Where better for a 19 year old from Liverpool to get ashore hoping to bump into a film star…..of course that didn’t happen, otherwise I wouldn’t be here and this story would have been a very different one, but I have no doubt that is what every young man going ashore in one of the most glamorous countries of the world would think. Earlier that year, in February of 1955, Genoa had suffered a storm the like of which had not been seen in Italy for generations, wrecking 500m of the ports quayside and sinking an American ship Camas Meadows, battering her against the quayside until she holed and capsized at her berth and just a day later the Nordanland, a Swedish ship carrying Calcium Carbide exploded when her cargo became contaminated with sea water and turned into Acetylene gas, sending her to the bottom

The Camas Meadows Capsized in Genoa Port Feb 1955 (Photo Courtesy: Pathe News)

  When Dad docked in Genoa it would have been the early days of December (perhaps at a push the dying days of November) of 1955 and work would have been underway, perhaps even completing to repair and make good the storm damage. Genoa being Italy’s most important port, that would have been a priority, but it is likely the hulk of the Camas Meadows would have still been a morbid attraction. Genoa might have had something far more intriguing to see if Dad had a mind, a short trip up Via San Lorenzo, to the Gothic Cathedral at the city’s centre, would have given Dad sight of something many have searched for in vain for centuries, the Holy Grail…..or so it is claimed by those believers of the Cathedral’s Treasure Museum, better known there as the “Sacro Catino” this chalice, hexagonal and all of Green glass has been there since Guglielmo Embriaco brought it to Italy from the conquest of Caesarea in 1101 AD

“Sacro Catino” The Holy Grail of Genoa (Web Photo Courtesy: genovagolosa.it)

So Blue Funnel Engineering Cadet Ian Jones, at 19 years old,  of Leather’s Lane in Halewood, Liverpool, has now officially travelled the world, and in the space of a mere 3 months, his first away from home, seen the miracle of the Suez Canal, and traded with Arabs in far-away Aden, the last outposts of Empire, he has met Poseidon crossing the equator and stood at the other side of the world, drunk Beer in the pubs of Sydney, spoken in hushed tones in Cathedrals, and rubbed shoulders with Italian Film stars, he has found the Holy Grail and is now homeward bound on the last leg of his journey, to sit by the four bar electric fire in the living room at my Grandfather and grandmother’s home and tell them of all he has seen as Christmas 1955 draws the family together……to listen to tales of Blue Funnels, the ships of Liverpool…..and the oceans of the world

Blue Funnel…..The Welsh Navy: Pride of Merseyside!

In concluding this piece, with my hand on my heart, I am immeasurably grateful for the assistance of many with the writing and content of this piece, namely: Col R. Stewart DSO, M.P for Beckenham, for his permission to use pictures of his father Squadron Leader Archibald “Jock” Stewart M.C. in Aden

Also to Eric William Forshaw, for his recollections of the Helenus trip to Australia and for the information on ports of call and cargo on her journey in 1955

Additionally to Georgie Marsh of the Blue Funnel for Old Timers Facebook pages for his kind permission to use his photos of various Blue Funnel ships and memories from the time

I will remain indebted to those who have supplied or posted pictures used which have no formal attribution, having often been with me for many years providing insight into my Fathers Journeys around……. Thank You All!

Filed Under: Blue Funnel Line

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