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Protector III Definitive

March 20, 2022 by Colin Jones

Motor Mine Sweeper (MMS) 251

Protector III, Sailing for the Falklands 1949 (Photo: Courtesy Robert Rowlands & The Falkland Collection)

 It is a small world and I am constantly amazed at the unexpected connections that sometimes crop up……I had posted the piece on Castalia, the wreck we stumbled across in the shallows at Weddell Island in the Falkland Islands, and thought little more about it, I had researched as far as I thought I could and that everything that could be found had been. It turned out not to be so and a Falkland Islands resident, Robert Rowlands got in touch to kindly correct some information and chat about the wreck and, very graciously, supplied some family photos of the wreck from his extensive archive. What has that to do with Protector III you might ask? Well, it turns out Robert also saw the piece on Protector III and, as his father had been Engineer of the vessel in her Sealing days around the Falkland Islands, Robert had some more information on Protector III to, again (very kindly), share with me. As you can see from the Picture Robert provided me (above), Protector III was built as a Motor Mine Sweeper (MMS), by Wagstaff & Hatfield of Port Greville in Nova Scotia, Canada

Port Greville Yard & Lighthouse c1910 (Web Photo: courtesy Nova Scotia Archives and Records)

Wagstaff & Hatfield Port Greville Canada

George Wagstaff was born in 1887, his Father a shipwright, working at yards in Annapolis in the USA & British Columbia between 1902 and 1910. George joined his father as an apprentice in 1901 at 13 years old, until 1913 when he moved back to British Columbia, to set up his own shipyard, eventually settling in Port Greville around 1916 (Editorial “Timber to Tall Ships Our Parrsborough Shore, Wagstaffe & Hatfield Shipyard, 3”. Online Resource: https:// www. communitystories.ca / v1/pm_v2.php? id=story_line&lg= English&fl =0&ex=271&sl= 591&pos=1&pf=1 Accessed 20/12/2021). Otto Hatfield was a local, born in Port Greville, and joined Wagstaffe in 1933 to take over the financials, at which point the firm became “Wagstaffe & Hatfield Shipbuilding & Repairs”, Otto was variously, secretary, Treasurer, Office Manager and Purchasing Manager for Wagstaffe & Hatfield

George Wagstaff & Otto Hatfield c1950 (Web Photo: Courtesy ageofsailmuseum.ca)

The Ratchford River flows into the Minas Basin, its mouth forming a gravel bar extending down the shoreline for a kilometer, subject to tidal flow, and making an excellent groyne. It was this gravel bar that offered a natural access to those early colonialists breaking into the huge wilderness of British Columbia and, by so doing, becoming the forefathers of modern Canada. In 1874, a wall of round timber, 2,200 feet in length and seven feet tall, had been constructed along the bar to provide additional protection, forming a makeshift harbour, George Wagstaff’s father viewed the gravel spit as a fitting place to set up a shipyard, and developed the river mouth into a more substantial and safe harbour. Another benefit was its proximity to abundant and varied timbers, ideally suited to the construction of sailing ships in the 1800’s. That timber was still available in plentiful supply when sailing vessels became steam and, eventually, diesel powered ships. The wooden hulls of early vessels such as these were ideally suited to small coastal minesweeping operations, having a much reduced magnetic and acoustic signature, limiting the effect of German magnetic and acoustic mines

Port Greville Light (Web Photo: Courtesy ageofsailmuseum.ca)

To better identify the harbour to shipping, in 1907, the Canadian Government had John Reid build a pair of “range lights” at Port Greville (Editorial “Port Greville Lighthouse” Online Resource:  https:// www.lighthousefriends.com/ light.asp? ID=1016 Accessed: 25/12/2021), the eventual construction would be suitably prominent: “The tower is an enclosed wooden building, square in plan, with sloping sides, surmounted by a square wooden lantern, the whole painted white. The height of the tower from its base to the top of the ventilator on the lantern is 25 feet. The light is a fixed red light, elevated 59 feet above high-water mark, and should be visible 6 miles from all points of approach by water” Although Wagstaff & Hatfield Shipyard is no longer there, remnants of the time can be seen at the Age of Sail Museum in Port Greville, where a small and uniquely local collection hosts “…a museum in an 1854 church, local blacksmith shop from the Wagstaff and Hatfield shipyard, as well as the Port Greville Lighthouse circa 1908 and a boathouse”. In a perhaps not so strange a coincidence, the first lighthouse keeper, appointed on June 29th, 1908 was a Mr Ernest A. Hatfield, very likely a close relation of Otto Hatfield

Wagstaff & Hatfield, an MMS Quayside, Otto’s Barn under construction (Web Photo: Courtesy parrsboroshoredays.ca)

Wagstaff & Hatfield were by no means the only builders of MMS & Llewellyn Class Motorized Minesweepers, yards in the UK and abroad were tasked with production, in order to both increase the production rate and to minimize the damage the Germans could achieve across the fleets, should they target any particular type of vessel

Wagstaff & Hatfield Shipyard, Otto’s Barn Complete with Slips (Web Photo: Courtesy K L Graham)

Those shipyards producing the 105 Ft MMS & Llewellyn (MMS specifically for the Royal Canadian Navy), according to the Reverend Michael J Melvin BEM (Melvin, M.J: “MINESWEEPER The Role of the Motor Minesweeper in World War II” Ch2, P23: Square One Publications, Saga House, Worcester 1992) included: “…19 yards in England and 11 in Scotland. By far the largest number of early 105 footers were built by Frank Curtiss of Looe, Par and Totnes.” Going on to add “In addition to the UK yards, orders were placed with twenty two builders overseas…a total of 91 vessels of the same type from Canada, Newfoundland, Rangoon, Beirut, Tel Aviv, Cochin, Kingstone Jamaica, Nassar, Hong Kong, Singapore and Colombo”

Keel & Ribs of an MMS in Construction at Wyvenhoe (Web Photo: Courtesy wivenhoehistory.org)

Port Greville became known for shipbuilding, more than eighty-four sailing vessels were built there, including seventy-six schooners, six Brigantines, one Barque, and one Barquentine. During WWII, Wagstaff & Hatfield, and their team of up to a hundred shipwrights and tradesmen, built wooden transfer scows. The company also took on a contract for 12 wooden hulled mine sweepers for the British Admiralty, which, due to the unpredictable freezing of the river Ratchford and the Fundy Bay area, were fitted out and finished in Shelburne before heading to the UK. The Port Greville Yard had been chosen for the Minesweepers as, according to the Government (Editorial “PROCUREMENT OF SHIPS-DEFENCE OF CANADA, 1939-41”, P46/7. Online Resource: http://www.cmp-cpm.forces.gc.ca/dhh-dhp/his/docs/Naval_Svc_vol2_e.pdf  Accessed 20/12/2021) “British Columbia yards had had considerable experience with both heavy and light types of construction, and were equally capable of building M.L.’s and wooden minesweepers”

Overview of the General Specification (Web Photo: Courtesy Oralee O’Byrne ageofsailmuseum.ca)

These craft were in addition to small fishing and pleasure craft usually built by the yard in times of peace. In 1957 the yard became incorporated as “Wagstaff and Hatfield limited”, Otto Hatfield left the firm but the yard continued building and repairing vessels until as late as 1972, only closing after a series of contracts were hit by inflation of costs caused by a financial crisis, and then quickly followed by a huge storm in 1976, which finally destroyed many of the main Wagstaff & Hatfield buildings

Groundhog Day Storm Damage 02 July 1976 (Web Photo: Courtesy P Merriman parrsboroshoredays.ca)

The Motorized Minesweeper & Llewellyn Class sweepers were small vessels at 105 Ft long and 23 feet wide………so, for those of you who, I know, are obsessed with detail:

Protector III’s Engine Manual (Photo: Courtesy Robert Rowlands & The Falklands Collection)

MMS251 was delivered to the Royal Navy on the 30th June 1943, joining the 143rd Flotilla at Swansea (Melvin, M.J: “MINESWEEPER The Role of the Motor Minesweeper in World War II” P51 and in Appendix F, P213: Square One Publications, Saga House, Worcester 1992), being assigned to T/LT Bernard Cakebread of the Royal Navy Volunteer Reserve in September of 1943. She was flying Pennant J751, and attached to minesweeping duties, using Longitudinal Line Sweep Gear (LL). The importance of minesweeping is so obvious it often goes unremarked, I see innumerable web-sites and articles about the war, but fewer about the importance of the vessels, and crews, risking their lives to ensure trade and materials get through dangerous estuary areas to dock safely. Every U-Boat commander and E or S-Boat Captain, and all the Nazi Bomber Command in the Luftwaffe, knew the importance of British Ports to the war effort, the German population had been brought to the brink of starvation by British blockading of German sea ports in WWI

USS Uruguay Docking American Troops at Swansea 1943 (Web Photo: Courtesy swanseadocks.co.uk)

It was vital to the Germans to block ports wherever they could, and to deny entry, or sink as many supply-ships as they could to weaken the spirit of the British public by attrition. It was also clear, after the entry of the US into the Second World War, that troops, planes, equipment and ammunition, were crossing the Atlantic in ever growing numbers. The cheapest and by far most effective way of denying access to British ports was the mine, Germany concentrated a huge effort to laying thousands of mines across the estuaries of the South Coastal ports of Plymouth, Falmouth, Bristol, and a determined campaign to do the same around the remainder of the country, Liverpool, Swansea, Sunderland and Newcastle Upon Tyne. It fell to the vessels of the Minesweeper Flotillas such as the Texas, Poulmic, Elk and MMS 251 to spot, snare and neutralize this pernicious threat

The Bridge of MMS136 Watches a Sweep c1943 (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

The MMS (& Llewellyn) Class of Motorised Mine Sweeper had Two main anti-mine countermeasures, the first being the Longitudinal Line deployment. This consisted of two heavy duty and highly insulated electrical wires trailed from the stern of the boat, hence the open transom at the rear of the vessels. The lines would have a pulse of electric charge sent down them mimicking the electrical signature of a large steel ship in order to detonate the magnetic, or “field sensitive” mines of the Germans

Cross Sectional Minesweeper Cable (Web Illustration: Courtesy Goodall E A mcdoa.org.uk) 

Usually pairs of MMS craft worked in a lane in parallel, each would deploy their lines and then one “Wire-man” would synchronize to the other’s sequence and they would run a sweep. Ernest A Goodall, the Leading Wire-man on MMS41 in World War II, describes the procedure (Goodall E. A. in “Wartime Minesweeping Memories, Sweeping Procedure” Para 2. Online Resource:  https:// www.mcdoa.org.uk/ Wartime%20Minesweeping%20Memories. htm Accessed: 22/12/2021):

Longitudinal Line Sweeping, Deployment from an MMS (Web Photo: Courtesy H Tomlin Collection Imperial War Museum)

 “I would signal the partner to switch on and start pulsing.  Their pulse indication lights would come on for five seconds in every 30 seconds; one light at the forward location meant that they were putting a positive feed out through the short leg which produced a north magnetic field between the ships. Their next pulse would show me two lights; one at the forward location and one aft, indicating a change of polarity. Now I had to watch very carefully for when their single light came on, i.e. forward location, and when it went off.  When it went off I would immediately switch on the Venner time clock again.  Then both ships should have been synchronized but sometimes I may have been a bit slow on switching on again and perhaps lost a second.  If this happened, I had to get through the operation again until I got it spot on”

Later in the war the Germans developed multi-polarity mines, which meant the MMS flotilla’s needed to run two sweeps of each channel to ensure both North and South polarity sequences had been covered

MMS Electrical Control Panels (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

 The second mine countermeasure the MMS flotillas were often fitted with is the Kango, or Acoustic Hammer, a device developed, as it seems clear, from the Kango hammer drill. The rotating percussion element of the hammer was fitted, originally, in a forward compartment in ships and operated from within, but it quickly became apparent that it left the ship in clear danger of being on top of an acoustic mine when it detonated, it may be that is what took the HMT Elk (another wreck dive featured on this site) to the bottom of Plymouth Sound

Bow Mounted Kango & Boom, MMS192 (Web Photo: Courtesy mcdoa.org)

The answer came from scientific advances, most likely from the Royal Naval Engineering College (who were using the Elk for experimental steam powered devices), who placed the Kango into a waterproof Cone (probably amplifying its resonance at the same time as protecting those on the vessel using the device), and mounted it at the front of the MMS on a boom arrangement, or dropped it over the side on a wire, via a winch, using a device similar to a trawl or lifeboat Davit, there’s an excellent photo of that operation, from as late as the Korean War, again in the piece on HMT Elk elsewhere in this blog

Kango Internal Detail (Web Illustration: Courtesy Goodall E A mcdoa.org.uk)

The MMS, affectionately nicknamed “Mickey Mouse”, after the popular Disney Character, were small craft in the scheme of things at 30m or so long, they carried a crew of around 20, from the Captain, (often denoted T/Skipper, or “Trawler Skipper”, a Royal Naval Reserve (RNR) or Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve (RNVR) rank specific to the minesweeping flotillas), then First Officer, usually a Lieutenant, the Coxswain, a Signalman, an Engineer, a Wire-man (often also the signalman), a Leading Seaman, and, if they were lucky boats, a Cook, and then to the “Ordinary Seamen”  and AB’s (Able-Bodies) numbering between 10 and 12 per boat. That is a considerable crew considering the size of the boats and the accommodation aboard

MMS Engine Room c1943 (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

Key to the operation of the sweeps, was the Radio Operator, a position my step-father was assigned to on another small vessel type in World War II, the Motor Torpedo Boat, or MTB. Another small craft, but one designed for speed to counter the E-Boat threat and to enable fast reaction to downed air-men in the Channel, Another perilous activity, in what Vic described as, “continual sea-sickness and horribly cramped conditions”, no wonder he volunteered for Commando Training as soon as he was allowed!

Radio Room on an MMS c1943 (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

Nevertheless, it was the Radio Operator who coordinated the wire-sweep polarity’s, and was often the wire-man, responsible for the frequency and pulse of the longitudinal sweep too. Another wire-man, Reg Breary, from Liversedge in Yorkshire assigned to MMS 256, recalls (Breary, R. in “ROYAL NAVAL PATROL SERVICE – REG BREAREY” Online Resource: http://www.hmsgangestoterror.org/rn-patrol-service.html Accessed 27/12/2021) “….there were two huge Cummins diesels with English Electric 47 kw. generators which would put out a magnetic field of 5000 amps for a few seconds pulse both North & South (one at a time of course.) There were 48 submarine batteries to take part load on pulse”. The difficulty of that task should not be underestimated, considering the dangers of getting the synchronization out of phase with the opposite number MMS, when carrying out the lane sweep (as Ernest Goodall describes earlier in this piece), everything depended on the function and settings of the electrical wire signals, or everyone aboard was at extreme and mortal risk 

MMS87 with both Sweep & Acoustic Deployed (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

It did not take long for MMS251 to be in the thick of things, in Swansea that would mean clearing the approaches to the docks, keeping the U-Boats and Heinkel’s from any chance of success laying minefields from the sea or from the air, it would be unlikely E-Boats would operate anywhere near that far up the West Coast, but there would always be the chance a German Minelayer might get near enough if the 143rd Flotilla guard dropped….. There were hushed plans underway behind the scenes at the Admiralty, MMS251 and her sister ships would play the biggest part in their chances of success at a very early stage of the execution of those plans. Operational orders were underway for the invasion of Normandy, the re-taking of France and the lowlands and, eventually, the defeat of Adolf Hitler’s Third Reich:

143rd Flotilla Joins Eastern Task Force S (Web Photo: Courtesy navy.gov.au)

ONEAST 6.–Instructions for Minesweeping
10.4.44
INFORMATION
Minesweeping Forces
1. The following is the allocation of the minesweeping forces available. (For details of
the composition of flotillas and groups see ON6, Appendix III.)

Eastern Task Force Task Force Commanders (Eastern: Rear Adm. Sir Philip Vian RN; 
115th M.S.F. (M.M.S.) .. .. .. .. .. Force S.
143rd M.S.F. (M.M.S.) .. .. .. .. .. Force S.

D Day June 06th 1944, Operation Neptune (Web Photo: Courtesy Battlefield Design historyextra.com)

By the time these plans were confirmed and the forces required had been determined MMS251 had a new Captain, “On 23 Jan 1944, C. G. C. COOMBE took Command of MMS 251 (short-boat Motor Mine Sweeper otherwise known as a ‘Mickey Mouse’) as an Acting Temporary Skipper RNR with a seniority of 9 Jan 1940 and then as an Acting Lt Skipper RNR with a seniority of 9 Jan 1940. He remained in Command until at least July 1945” (Naval_Gazer. Posted in Blog Thread  https://www.navy-net.co.uk/community/threads/the-first-floatia-of-minesweepers-on-d-day-6th-june-1944.74808/ Online Resource: Accessed 27/12/2021)

Lt Cecil G C Coombe RNR (Web Data: Courtesy unithistories.com)

The minesweepers of 143 Flotilla, and their colleagues from Operation Neptune, sailed in advance of the task force on the 03rd June of 1944 to clear sea lanes needed to get the assault and landing forces across the English Channel, Wire-man Reg Breary, again, recalls: “…So June 3rd about 50 M.M.S. set sail after dark, we could only guess where we were headed but no generators required for 3 hrs. so a good time to top up the batteries, no codes were given to me at this time so we were sure it had to be France.” (Breary, R. in “ROYAL NAVAL PATROL SERVICE – REG BREAREY” Online Resource: http://www.hmsgangestoterror.org/rn-patrol-service.html Accessed 27/12/2021). The undertaking was enormous, the logistics involved had taken over a year of planning and were complex, depending on the collaboration of multiple allied forces, British, American, Australian, New Zealanders, Polish, Dutch, French, Canadian……. and many other colonial forces brought together for one purpose, to defeat the Germans and re-take Europe

The Neptune D Day Minesweeping Force (Web Data: Courtesy royalnavy.mod.uk)
The Area to be Cleared, June 05th 1944 (Web Illustration: Courtesy royalnavy.mod)

The work involved to clear such an area of sea both offshore and (later that night through to early morning), the near shore areas of the Normandy beaches, can only be described as daunting. David Verghese describes the planning in his piece on the Royal Navy Minewarfare & Clearance Diving Officers Association web-site: (Verghese, D. “Operation Neptune: the Minesweeping Operation 5-6 June 1944” Online Resource: https:// www.mcdoa.org.uk/ Operation_Neptune_Minesweeping.htm Accessed 30/12/2021) “In respect of each of the five beach Assault Forces (designated U, O, G, J and S), two channels would be cleared S.SE. through the mine barrier for the first wave of amphibious infantry on what would be termed D-Day.  One assault channel would be for 12 knot convoys and one for slower 5 knot convoys. These channels were to be numbered 1-10 from west to east”. The ramifications of missed mines would be catastrophic to the operation, the dangers implicit in clearing the sea routes were perilous, not only the act of capturing and neutralizing the hundreds of mines, but the threat of air and sea attack from an enemy determined to prevent the assault

Admiral Ramsay (center), Sir Arthur Tedder, RAF (left) and Rear Admiral Sir Phillip Vian (Web Photo: Courtesy Royal Navy)
The Minesweeping Plan June 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy navy.gov.au)

Verghese goes on to note the importance of the advanced planning undertaken by Admiral Bertram Ramsey and his Task Force Commanders (Eastern: Rear Adm. Sir Philip Vian RN; Western: Rear Adm. Alan G. Kirk USN): “A Fleet Minesweeping Flotilla (MSF) of nine ships would be allocated to each channel to sweep well ahead of the invasion vessels. It was of paramount importance to conceal from the enemy the time and place, and indeed intent, of the landings by the forces following up behind”. It is a testament to the secrecy of the planning, and covert assembly of the assault and landing fleets, the deception employed by the allies (to misdirect the enemy and have him expect an attack in an entirely different location than that intended), and the flawless execution of the plan, that ensured the success of Operation Neptune. If it had not been for the Minesweepers and Dan Layers of the Eastern & Western Task Forces, it might have looked completely different from that which confronted the German Army on Omaha, Gold, Juno, Sword and Utah beaches on the morning of the 06th June 1944

Dan Marker Laying c1943 (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

The work of the D Day clearances lasted far longer than you might imagine, the German Kriegsmarine and Luftwaffe did not simply abandon the seas and skies over the Normandy beaches, and constant re-mining was attempted over the days of June, July and August by sea using E Boats, and U-Boats and by air using Heinkel’s. As the land based attack became more successful and the beachhead was secured, the assaults moved inland and a fast expansion into France necessitated more supplies

One Month of Minesweeping Operation Neptune June 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy navy.gov.au)

MMS251 played an integral part in the clearing of mines during Operation Neptune, one of her Officers (likely 2nd in command/First Officer), Lt G W Lambert (RNVR), being mentioned in despatches. The success of Operation Neptune minesweeping was not absolute, one of the troopships carrying American soldiers of the 90th Infantry Division did suffer damage from mines. The Susan B Anthony hit two mines whilst travelling off Utah Beach, despite the severity of the two explosions, in an exemplary operation in the circumstances all troops were safely evacuated from her, without loss of life, on the 07th June of 1944. The work of mine clearance, carried out under accurate and consistent fire from land, sea and air by the German forces did not go un-noticed, Rear Admiral Alan Kirk USN: “It can be said without fear of contradiction that minesweeping was the keystone in the arch of this operation. All of the waters were suitable for mining, and plans of unprecedented complexity were required. The performance of the minesweepers can only be described as magnificent”……, however Normandy would not be the last mortal danger MMS251 would place herself and her crew in!

Lt. G. W. Lambert, MiD Operation Neptune 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy National Archives)

Sadly the war was far from over, the Nijmegen parachute drops 17th September of 1944 (Operation Market Garden) intended to secure the bridges over the Rhine River at Arnhem (for the crossing of units passing through the beachhead moving through France on into Belgium & Germany), had isolated troops a step too far from the advancing forces and, after a bloody and determined battle, they were in danger of losing the initiative through lack of supplies. The next battle phase was to be securing the approaches to Antwerp, to take the port as a re-supply route to the North-West flank of the invasion. It would, again, fall to the minesweepers of the allies, to clear the routes for the Navy bombardments and landing of men and supplies to underpin that effort

The Scheldt Estuary 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy warmuseum.ca)

The Second British Army managed to take Antwerp but the Scheldt River approach was still held by the German Army, without taking the river there was no access from the North Sea to Antwerp. Dwight Eisenhower, the supreme commander of the allied forces Europe, made it clear to Winston Churchill in a telegram (Editorial “Sweeping the Scheldt” Online Resource: http://www.wildfire3.com/sweeping-the-scheldt.html Accessed 28/12/2021) “Unless we have Antwerp producing (unloading ships) by the middle of November our entire operations will come to a standstill. I must emphasise that, of all our operations on the entire front from Switzerland to the channel, I consider Antwerp of first importance.” The German soldiers the Canadian 1st Army & British 2nd Army would face were the 15th German Army, Army Group B and Army Group H, supported by battle hardened paratroopers, taking the banks of the Scheldt and carrying out minesweeping along the estuary and the river would be nothing short of brutal

Antwerp Docks c1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy europemembers.com)

There is no definitive proof MMS251 was at the Scheldt for Operation Calendar in November of 1944, nor her sistership MMS250 (MSF 142, Plymouth), however, as we can determine MMS251 was assigned to the 143rd Flotilla (Swansea), there is anecdotal evidence she would have been there: Michael Melvin records the loss of two of the 143rd Flotilla’s Minesweepers 248 & 257 (Melvin, M.J: “MINESWEEPER The Role of the Motor Minesweeper in World War II” Chapter 8, P121: Square One Publications, Saga House, Worcester 1992) which are noted as “Sunk River Schelde”. It is apparent Mine Sweeper Flotilla 143 (MSF 143) was deployed in support of operations to clear the Schelde, which means it is also a reasonable assumption to conclude that would include MMS251. As is often sadly the case in the smaller vessels of the war, there were high casualty rates, and the loss of lives in respect to smaller ships was proportionately far less than for the loss of larger naval vessels, often meaning the reporting of loss of smaller craft was not as accurately investigated or recorded   

Minesweepers in Antwerp Dock 26th Nov 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy Bell K National Defence Library Archives Canada)

I have not intended to look at the battles fought along the River Schelde in detail, that is for those who are tracking the land and air assaults, and who would do far better justice to such complex and asymmetric warfare. I will, however, mention the ferocity of the German defence along its length, and the huge effort to re-take Antwerp in the famous Battle of the Bulge, where the German Army pushed back desperately, until a combination of fierce retaliation by the Allies and the limits of fuel for the German Panzers & Tiger tanks and personnel transporters was reached, for, if it were not for the Minesweepers clearing the Schelde, allowing supply-ships into Antwerp, there would not have been re-supply of vital ammunition, fuel, food and men to defend Antwerp and turn the tide of the desperate German advance

November 1944, The First Allied Ship Into Antwerp (Web Photo: Courtesy tracesofwar.com)

The Schelde secured, the Battle of the Bulge won, by January of 1945 the writing was on the wall for Hitler and the Reich, it did not take long to have the German Army in full retreat back to Berlin and, 08th May of 1945 saw the unconditional surrender of all German forces and the declaration of Victory in Europe…….That would not be the end of the war for the minesweepers of the Allies, the seas of the world would never truly be free of mines, a world war two parachute mine came ashore in England (Bognor Regis) as late as 2018, and undoubtedly they will continue to do so, but determined efforts were made by combined fleets of Minesweepers until the late 1940’s when the operations were scaled down and eventually ended. The Minesweepers now redundant, the War Office began disposals of those deemed fit for sale and, in 1949 both MMS250 and MMS251 were bought by a Norwegian and a Falkland Island concern and here the fate of both became a little murky………

HMS MMS 250 & 251 Postwar Sale (Web Photo: Courtesy Shirlaw D)

The notification of Sale from “Arsenal of Democracy North: Canadian Naval Shipbuilding of the Second World War” (P99), a work on shipbuilding undertaken by the Canadians on behalf of the Allies during the war, clearly indicates MMS 250 available but MMS251 having been sold to “Commercial Harstad” in 1947. I have no idea where David Shirlaw’s information came from, and I notice the sale date as being 1947, but further investigation indicated an anomaly with this information as Robert Rowlands, whose father was the Engineer on Protector III, was convinced she was MMS251, and backed that up with information from a Norwegian site (MMS250 http://www.skipet.no/skip/krigsbygd/motor-mine-sweeper-mms-110-fots-klasse/mms-250) showing the Harstad (formerly, according to the site, MMS250) “MMS 250 ble bygget om til lokalruteskip HARSTAD og utrangert i 1966” which translates as “MMS250 was converted to a local cruise ship HARSTAD and scrapped in 1966”

Harstad, MMS 250 According to Norwegian Information (Web Photo: Courtesy Gunnar Oversen)

So we start the investigation with anomalous and conflicting information, is the Protector III, sat on New Island in the Falklands, MMS250 or 251, and to whom and when was she sold, 1947? I suppose for most it would not matter, if the Protector III is “either” does it really make a difference? I am not sure if it is just me or if there are others like me, (I am sure there are…. poor sods) that would far prefer to know precisely “which is which”….. whatever the case, if you are interested in history, especially the history of ships (as there are often many built to the same plans), it just feels better knowing you have the “right” name matching the right numbers (ask any classic car aficionado….they are somewhat manic about “matching numbers”….). Robert Rowlands had a little more information in the form of the main and auxiliary engine serial numbers: “Protector III official number 166895 registered Kings Lynn 22.09.1947, Main Engine: Fairbanks Morse Model 35M14F Serial No 838855, Auxiliary Engine: Fairbanks Morse, model 36A4 Serial Number 837978” which he sent to me when I shared the detail I had found in David Shirlaw’s work. But Robert wasn’t on New Island to physically confirm the numbers on the wreck, and wasn’t going to be until January 2022 so there was time to dig a little further……

The Wagstaff & Hatfield Build Records for MMS250 & 251 (Web Photo: Courtesy Tim Colton shipbuildinghistory.com)


1st port of call, the registration documents for Kings Lynn in 1945 or after……nothing, not a jot! Next I looked at the Wagstaff & Hatfield Records, it turns out these were available online through shipbuildinghistory.com, sadly there was not sufficient detail to confirm anything more than the delivery and sale dates, both were supposedly sold in 1946 and in the Hatfield records indicate it was MMS250 sold as Harstad, which gave us two sources identifying MMS250 as the vessel sold into Norway. So the search continued and it turns out it is by no means an easy thing to find detail on these small vessels, it is as if history has simply forgotten them. I sought help from the museums in Canada, and although they were all very helpful, there was nothing more than I already had, and nothing specific enough to identify definitively that MMS251 was Protector III, even though I was becoming as convinced as Robert was that it was MMS251 on the New Island beach…….Perhaps the Falkland Islands had the answer? I had been helped with research on the John R Kelly (another shipwreck written up elsewhere on this site) by the Falkland Islands Museum and the Jane Cameron Archive in Port Stanley, these are two separate entities, as I found out inadvertently when I copied both in a single e-mail and was politely scolded for so doing, lessons learned, and happily my faux pas had not mortally offended it seemed. I was sent some amazing copies of the documents held in the Jane Cameron National Archives:

Falkland Islands Shipping Report 14/11/1949 Protector III Arrives in Port Stanley (Web Photo: Courtesy T Bishop Jane Cameron Archives FI)

I now had the Captain who delivered the Protector III into Port Stanley 14/11/1949, a Mr A. Monk, things were getting interesting! I was very grateful, (by some co-incidence, which my wife Ellie seems to have been somehow involved in….) to receive the Michael J Melvin Book “Minesweeper, the role of the motor minesweeper in world war II” from my youngest son Kai this Christmas and, besides making very interesting reading on the operations and flotillas, it also asserts MMS251 became Protector III, and confirms the sailing to the Falkland Islands under Captain Monk: “….the hulk turned out to be  ex-MMS 251 also built in Canada, but which served in the U.K. Her story is that following her war service, she became a Fisheries Protection Vessel and was named Protector III, but was sold to the South Atlantic Sealing Company. A Mr. A.B.Monk, OBE, from whom the story comes and who held a deep sea certificate, was invited to sail Protector III to the Falkland Islands, with another vessel, the Golden Chance in tow. With the help of 120 fathoms of 9” coir rope, a successful 5,500 miles was completed. Actual steaming time was 42 days, starting at Colchester, Essex and visiting Lisbon, Las Palmas, St Vincent, Pernabuco, Rio, Montevideo and Stanley. That was in November of 1949” (Melvin, M.J: “MINESWEEPER The Role of the Motor Minesweeper in World War II” Ch5, P80: Square One Publications, Saga House, Worcester 1992). All the documented detail still lacks the vital information I am after, in respect to absolute proof Protector III is MMS251

MMS251, 42 Days Wyvenhoe to Port Stanley (Web Cartography: Courtesy Google Earth)

Looking at the journey completed by Captain Monk it is, to say the least, a daunting undertaking. The idea of a 5500 mile North and South Atlantic sea voyage is not new, whalers completed such journeys in the days of sail and on into the age of steam, however Captain Monk had another layer of complication in regards to the towing of the Golden Chance, herself a similar size to the Protector III. The Golden Chance had been a 90 Ton, 84ft Lowestoft Steam Trawler (LT371), built by John Chambers Ltd and fitted with a Crabtree & Co (Lowestoft) Steam Engine, (LT371 “Lowestoft Registered Boats”. Online Resource: https:// sites.google.com/ site/ukboatsgycouk/ lowestoft-registered-boats-3/lowestoft-registered-boats Accessed: 28/02/2022) she would be a secondary supply ship for the South Atlantic Sealing Co and was purchased, along with Protector III, by the Colonial Development Corporation for work at Albermarle

Golden Chance at Canache, Falkland Islands, c1995 (Web Photo: Courtesy Hector Patrick)

None of the information given during the recounting of Captain Monk’s epic voyage furthered the identification of Protector III, but it is all fascinating and leads the reader on a journey across over 5500 miles of Ocean (in and of itself deserving of a book at least) and through the 5 or so years of her working life in and around Port Stanley, the Capital of the Falkland Islands, and a little later on it all helped me identify an obscure piece which described the reason for her beaching on New Island

Wyvenhoe Riverfront & St Mary’s Church (Web Photo: Courtesy britishcoast.wordpress.com)

It would seem this also identifies the 1949 port of embarkation in the lead photo for this piece as Colchester, (specifically Wyvenhoe) but, again, there is nothing “concrete” in the piece identifying which MMS this was, no bill of sale, no transfer of ownership papers, or register of re-naming, just word of mouth from Captain Monk and this time the purchaser is identified as “The South Atlantic Sealing Company”…….. The purchasers of MMS251 (from the Fisheries Protection Department), seemed up to that point to have been the Colonial Development Corporation, a Government enterprise set up to help the economic development of British Colonial interests which, of course, included the Falkland Islands. Why was a war surplus craft, especially a small, ex-coastal minesweeper at that, crossing an Ocean and undertaking a 5500 mile journey to the Falkland Islands? I hoped to find out more from the references to both the Colonial Development Corporation and the South Atlantic Sealing Company, so I started to look into sealing activities in the 1900’s but that turned out to be a more difficult task than expected…… I found an article by Ian Strange (the New Island owner when I was diving the Falklands in 1996), which briefly mentions a 1949 sealing operation in his publication (Ian Strange “Sealion Survey in the Falklands” P177, Para 3. Online Resource: https:// www.cambridge.org/ core/journals/oryx/article/ sealion-survey-in-the-falklands/ 7B6CDEA9DE036754E0A18581BB694993 Accessed 06/01/2022): “In 1949, another sealing venture, the South Atlantic Sealing Company, sponsored by the Colonial Development Corporation, was formed, and in 1950 started sealing from the base at Albemarle that was used in the 1930s, aiming at full utilisation of the sealions and taking oil, skins, meat and bone. The first season was a failure due to technical troubles and a shortage of seals”. This sent me back to the Falkland Island sources and some more assistance requested from Tansy Bishop of the Jane Cameron National Archives, that surfaced a series of correspondences (“NAT-SEA-4-14 Sealing concession to Couper Friend Co.pdf” Online Resource: https:// www.nationalarchives.gov.fk /jdownloads/Natural%20History/Seals%20and%20Sealing/ NAT-SEA-4-14%20Sealing%20 concession%20to%20 Couper%20Friend%20Co.pdf Accessed 02/01/2022) between Couper friend and Co and the Colonial Secretary in London, it also identified the applicant to be licensee for the South Atlantic Sealing Company, a Mr Peter Tilbury…..

1947 Couper Friend Sealing Enquiry (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archives F.I.)

Sealing was not a new activity on the Falkland Islands, it had been going on since the whaling days in the 1800’s, probably even earlier, but this was clearly an attempt to reprise the 1930’s industry, looking a little deeper into the Falkland Islands Archive indicated the attempt had rattled someone in Whitehall as, behind the scenes, and at high altitude, there were hushed conversations taking place in the dark wood-paneled halls of office……..

The Corridors of Power Murmur (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archive F.I.) 

The series of letters & Telegrams (for those of you way younger than I am, that is basically an e-mail sent by telephone wires, specifically between two offices carrying special teletype machines, there was no internet in 1947….) between Couper Friend & Co, the Office of the Colonial Secretary and the Governor’s Office in Port Stanley are intriguing. There is clearly a conflict of interests between the Commonwealth Office, more inclined to give support to an application for sealing licenses to Salvessons (a Norwegian Whaling Company based in the UK but whaling in the South Atlantic out of South Georgia) or an Argentine concern, Pesca, than to Couper Friend & Co (A UK Animal Feeds Processing & Fertiliser Operation based in London), represented by Peter Tilbury (an employee of Salvessons on a whaler in the South Atlantic). It is very clear from the comments, often just handwritten in the margins of the letters and telegrams, that, what was written officially, was far from representative of what was going on in behind closed doors……..

Secretary of State, Direction to Governor of the Falklands 1948 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archives F.I.)

A little more on that perhaps later….but a look into parliamentary questions surfaced an interesting 1952 exchange: Hansard, the parliament archive (“Sealing Industry, Falkland Islands Volume 497: debated on Wednesday 19 March 1952” Online Resource https:// hansard.parliament.uk/Commons/1952-03-19/ debates/ 7bf26c69-a758-48ec-8ac 2-a212b301bdd2/ SealingIndustryFalklandIslands Accessed 02/01/2022)  notes: “Captain Robert Ryder asked the Secretary of State for the Colonies to what extent the Governor of the Falkland Islands has granted licences for sealing in Falkland Island waters; and what is the state of this industry. Mr. Lyttelton (Responding) A licence to take seals has been granted in the Falkland Islands to the South Atlantic Sealing Company, Ltd., a subsidiary of the Colonial Development Corporation, and in South Georgia to the Compania Argentina de Pesca. Operations by the former company have been temporarily suspended owing to a dispute about the validity of the licence granted to them, but I understand that a settlement of the dispute is now in sight. In South Georgia results have been satisfactory” Clearly, by 1952 the issues surrounding Peter Tilbury and the British Government had been resolved, the intervention of the Colonial Development Corporation in support of Couper Friend & Co, and Peter Tilbury, had swayed the issue of licenses away from Norwegian or Argentinian influence

Draft Lease for Sealing at Port Albemarle 1951 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archives F.I.)

This would not be the last time the Government of the Falkland Islands interfered in those influencing the destiny of the Protector III, but let’s look at her time in the Falkland Islands and see where, and what, her duties were between her arrival in 1949, at Port Stanley, and her beaching in New Island…… Evidence of the need for a vessel for the South Atlantic Sealing Company had been contained within their business proposal to the Governor in 1948, a particularly specific vessel type had already been indicated too….

Business Proposal “Vessels” P Tilbury to the Governor F.I. 1948 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archives F.I.)

So why, particularly, a LL Minesweeper (double L mine-sweeper) then? It is a very specific requirement and I can only determine it has something to do with the open stern on the MMS class vessels. I imagine the need for the removal of Seal carcasses from a wide-ranging area around Albermarle for eventual processing, and with each male weighing some 270 to 360Kg, there is no better means I can determine to effectively move them. I would expect Peter Tilbury would have known this, coming from a whaling background, and having completed at least one season in the South Atlantic with Salvesen’s on Southern Harvester, herself a stern-slip (open stern with drag lines and ramp for dragging whales aboard) vessel

Salvesen’s Whaler Southern Harvester c1948 (Web Photo: Courtesy Salvesen Archive)

Whilst the far smaller Motorised Minesweepers of the MMS & Llewellyn Class were wooden ships, and never originally intended to be used in such a manner, fitting “…suitable deck winches..” would facilitate the dragging and, should a derrick or hoist be added, allow for the lifting aboard of large, and very heavy, Sealion & Elephant Seals, in order to bring them to the Albermarle processing factory. If the original LL winches had not been removed, and were still functional, it would make perfect sense to use an MMS class vessel for these purposes

MMS Open Stern Winching in the LL Sweep (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)   

There were several other documents shared by Tansy Bishop of the Jane Cameron National Archives, some relating to Protector III at various points in her career as a sealer, and then some repair work, there were crew lists for journeys, one to Montevideo with strict requirements from the Government, and a series of journeys between 20th March 1952 and a six month crew signing between 30th September of 1953, presumably expected to end 28th of February 1954, and finally documents concerning her disposal from the Colonial Development Corporation into private ownership and her eventual demise

MMS250 as Harstad, Abandoned at Oksneshamn (Web Photo: Courtesy Lief Skaerstad)

Around this time I also found that the Norwegian ship Harstad, sistership MMS 250 according to the Norwegian records, had ended up ashore in the Fjords which I believe, anecdotally, to be following the phasing out of licenses for wooden ships as passenger carriers by the Norwegian authorities. The Harstad had been overhauled by Danielsen’s in 1951, in 1956 it was again refurbished with a new aft deck, over a 3 month period, then in 1966 Harstad was bought by Jens Berklund for use as a Herring Salting plant. By 1969 she was owned by Hans Jensen and was, seemingly, abandoned in a very badly disrepaired state. Again there was no definitive proof in the details from Norway, that the Harstad was MMS 250, but it meant both vessels were hard aground in opposite hemispheres of the planet, it also showed that Harstad had fared considerably worse than Protector III from the photo of her badly ravaged hull

Port Stanley Jetty 1950 (Web Photo: Courtesy coolantartica.com)

From her arrival in Port Stanley in November of 1949, Protector III was under the control of the South Atlantic Sealing Company and engaged in the setting up of the sealing enterprise initiated by Messrs. Couper Friend & Co and headed up locally by Peter Tilbury, journeys undertaken show the Protector III travelling again 24th of March in 1952, this time bound for Montevideo. Now the records available are those of the Falkland Islands Company, the Lloyds letting agents for shipping in the Falkland Islands, they do not record all journeys for all vessels (as far as I can determine from previous research for the wreck of the Castalia, another wreck on the blog), and Protector III may well have carried out many duties between Port Stanley and Albermarle. I believed the original stated intent to re-use everything at Albermarle was a failure, the equipment there (however much there remained from the 1930’s), was unusable, although I supposed the buildings might still have been used for the operation. It was not until I came across the autobiography of Richard Laws CBE (23/04/1926 to 07/10/2014, former Director of the British Antarctic Survey), that I found out a little more about Peter Tilbury, Protector III and sealing at Albermarle

Richard Maitland Laws CBE 23/04/1926-07/10/2014 (Web Photo: Courtesy royalsocietypublishing.org)

I read an excerpt from “Large Animals and Wide Horizons: Adventures of a Biologist” whilst researching this piece and strongly recommend those interested in the Falkland Islands wildlife to do the same. Chapter 14, which I will quote from in a minute, is some 30 pages concerning a 1951 voyage on Protector III around the Islands surveying Sealion populations, but is far more than just that, it gives an insight into the Protector III, the weather, the remoteness and the lifestyles of the intrepid islanders: (Laws, R.M. “Large Animals and Wide Horizons: Adventures of a Biologist” Ch14. P314. Online Resource: https:// www.spri.cam.ac.uk/ resources/autobiographies/richardlaws/richardlaws1.pdf Accessed: 06/01/2022). On Richard’s arrival in Port Stanley P327:“I had arrived in Stanley early in January 1951. On arrival the Governor asked me to carry out a survey of the fur seal population in the islands, because the South Atlantic Sealing Company was having difficulty making a success of their sea lion operations” which begins to set the scene for the rather short-lived enterprise at Albermarle, but Richard goes on to describe the journey, which I won’t spoil here (It is great reading, I assure you), and occasionally the Protector III P328: “When I eventually got out to Albemarle I expected to travel around the islands in a small wooden vessel, the Protector and hoped to get down to Beauchêne Island”  and sometimes Albermarle, P329: “….at Albemarle Harbour there was a former whaling station that had been refurbished as a sealing station, by the South Atlantic Sealing Company, with funding from the Colonial Development Corporation (CDC). Its Manager was a chap called Peter Tilbrook. The company had expected to make a success of the enterprise, which was based on killing sea lions for their oil”

Protector III at Albermarle Jetty (Picture: Courtesy Robert Rowlands Falklands & The Falkland Collection)

The comments on Protector III are insightful, she seems to have performed well in the torrid seas of the South Atlantic P334: “Weddell Island was by now only a few miles to the North, with rolling rather bleak hills, and large areas of screes and stone runs. There was a great tide rip, with foaming breakers to negotiate, abruptly demarcated from the smoother but shallow water on each side; in the rip were swirling cauldrons of ‘boiling’ water. Nevertheless the Protector made surprisingly good speed” I have cox’d Diving RIB’s around Weddell Island and, as those of you who have read the pieces on the Falkland Islands on this blog will know, the area is wild and untamed, Protector seems to have been well suited for the work!

Weddell Island Jetty 1996, Grey & Overcast in a Falklands Summer

But there may have been an inkling of things to come buried in Richard’s piece too P338: “We unloaded the lambs and took on board ‘Remo’, Tilbury’s new horse – also hay for the horse and milk for us. I went ashore and got a couple of fox skins from Mr McGill. The Protector was touching bottom at the stern, where there was a ledge of rock, but we got her off with the engines” The plucky little minesweeper seems to have been a very capable workhorse, and despite the rough treatment of the South Atlantic, and its dangerous island headlands and islets, still performed impeccably P339: “The tide-race in Smylie Channel was very strongly against us and as it was relatively calm, formed into hundreds of small whirlpools about 6-10 feet across, with water bubbling up elsewhere. It was a most impressive experience and at times the Protector was almost standing still, even with her engines racing”

“…at times the Protector was almost standing still, even with her engines racing”

Richard Law’s Island odyssey was involved and widespread, it took him from the 17th of February to 06th March 1951, a trip of just over three weeks, although early on he had determined P332: “….it was 10.30 am before we slipped our moorings and steamed away against the southerly wind. I was beginning to realize that this was a general-purpose cruise, dedicated to making money, not to counting seals!” Although later in the chapter Richard is a little more understanding and perhaps forgiving of the circumstances of Peter Tilbury’s motives, and also points to the reason the venture was short-lived and unsuccessful P343: “…..Tilbury had been preoccupied with taking on miscellaneous contracts, in order to raise money. This was perhaps not surprising. The sealing venture was not founded in reality. Our voyage had shown me that neither the sea lions nor the fur seals were as abundant as people had thought. With considerable extrapolation, I estimated a total fur seal population of 14,000, and I did not recommend to the Governor that he should issue a license to the company”

New Island Seal Colony 1996

It would be hard to blame Peter Tilbury for the overestimation of the enterprise at Albermarle, as Richard Law states himself P329: “In this they had been encouraged by a report, apparently written by a desk-bound ‘scientist’ in Whitehall, who had never been near the islands – nor did he have any special knowledge of seals. The best knowledge available was based on the reports of Hamilton, the Government Naturalist, who had earlier been with the ‘Discovery’ Investigations and had published two substantial papers on the species in 1936 and 1939. He had carried out a detailed count of the total sea lion pup production and, applying the results of his work on the age structure of the population he had estimated that the total population numbered almost 400,000” Where a population of that size would have probably been profitable, the more accurate numbers identified by Richard Law’s survey and estimations meant such an undertaking was doomed to failure. It would take Ian Strange’s aerial survey of 1965 mentioned earlier in this piece, to ratify Richard Law’s assessment of the number of seals in the Falkland Islands population, Ian Strange came to precisely the same (14000) figure as Richard did in 1951. What is available next comes from the crew listings which were a legal requirement for all British shipping  

Protector III embarks to Montevideo, P Tilbury as Captain (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archives F.I.)

Whatever the majority of work carried out between the 14th November 1949 and the 24th March 1952 will perhaps never be known, but the Montevideo trip was to undergo “extensive repairs to her rudder & engines” (Harbourmaster, Port Stanley F.I. in “M/V “Protector III.” ” a Letter in the Jane Cameron Archives “SHI-VES-13-6. Clearance of Protector III to Montevideo.pdf” Accessed: 04/01/2022). Following the repairs between 20/03/1952 and 09/05/1952 the Protector III returned to Port Stanley under the command of Peter Tilbury and clearly continued her work. The quality of the repairs seem to have been unsatisfactory to say the least, as para 3 of the same letter goes on to say “On Monday 8th. September, 1952 (Sealing Officers Diary) “Protector” was anchored at Barren Island where when trying to move in closer it was observed the Rudder had fallen off. H.M.S. “St. Austell Bay” went to her assistance and with the help of a diver the missing Rudder was located. On Wednesday 17th. September, 1952 at 8 a.m. the “St Austell Bay” arrived in Stanley with “Protector” in tow” Not a particularly good endorsement of the repair work in Montevideo, I am sure you would agree….

The MMS 105’ Class General Arrangement (Photo: Courtesy M Melvin From ISBN 1-872017-57-6)

For a rudder to “fall off” requires consecutive or spontaneous failures at multiple points, the shaft connecting the rudder must pass through the hull and be connected to the steering assembly, this involves support at the base of the rudder which would be nuts, bearings & shims either side of the support strut, and then the same arrangement at the underside of the hull and inner hull side to prevent water ingress but facilitate rotational movement in order to steer. There would also be the connection to whatever arrangement was used to turn the rudder, usually a quadrant and chain or connecting rods of sorts, again usually screwed together with nuts & washers at 3 points or more for such an arrangement. I find it odd in the extreme that such an assembly was deemed to have fallen off, it seems even more strange that repairs had been recently carried out, ship repairs are seldom undertaken by inexperienced or unqualified technicians…….

Protector III Return to Montevideo April 52 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archives F.I.)

The Jane Cameron National Archives may have part of the answer to the Rudder Issue Protector III experienced in September of 1952, the Log Book contains details surrounding an earlier departure from Montevideo on the 30th of April, “…returned to Montevideo with stern gland trouble, after departing 30/04.52…..”  The stern gland is the aperture through the hull where the propeller shaft passes through seals into the vessel and to the transmission & Engine, the detail is once again not explicit, it “could” have also been used as a term for the rudder gland. Both are areas where sealing to prevent water ingress is critical, leaks at these points have sunk vessels many times. So it would seem whatever repairs were carried out in that area in Montevideo, were not without issue

126’ MMS Stern & Rudder (Web Photo: Courtesy John Collins, Nottage)

The Harbourmaster’s letter (Harbourmaster, Port Stanley F.I. in “M/V “Protector III.” ” a Letter in the Jane Cameron Archives “SHI-VES-13-6. Clearance of Protector III to Montevideo.pdf” Para5. Accessed: 04/01/2022) indicates a second repair by the Falkland Islands Company was more successful ““Protector” was fitted with a new rudder made by the F.I.C. and shipped at Government Jetty, she continued in the service of the Sealing Company until 9th. March, 1953”What is not apparent in the Harbourmaster’s letter is that plans were already well underway, between the South Atlantic Sealing Company and the Commonwealth Development Corporation, to sell the Protector III, and those plans were (perhaps quite naturally), once more of some concern to those haunting the corridors of Whitehall……

Telegram, Whitehall to Governor F.I. November 1952 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archive F.I.)

It took some time to reach a decision on exactly who could and could not be approved for the sale of Protector III, but once again Peter Tilbury seems to have managed to calm the waters, and ends up in a consortia that eventually (March 1953) purchase the Protector III from the Colonial Development Corporation. However that was not before she was inspected and confirmed as in good general condition by the crew of HMS St Austell Bay (October 1952), perhaps the repairs to her rudder were finally behind her…… It seemed the Protector was getting back in the swing of things, as the Harbourmaster goes on to remark: “On the 9th March, 1953 at 3p.m. the “Protector” changed owners by Bill of Sale to the Intercoastal Trading Company Limited of this Port.”. The Protector III’s Log shows her taking on crew in March of 1953 for a six month period for a “Voyage within Falkland Islands home trade limits for a period of 6 months” with Peter Tilbury as Captain under the ownership of The Intercoastal Trading Company:

Protector III Log, 14th March 1953 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archive F.I.)

At this point I had found another break, “The Intercoastal Trading Company” of Port Stanley, and this small piece of information gave me a lead in the Falkland Islands Biography section, a Mr John James Davis (1893-1969). John Davis was one of 10 children, born on the 30th January 1893, into a Falkland Islands family in Port Stanley and followed his father, a sail-maker with the Falkland Islands Company, into a career in sailing vessels. John Davis (Allan, J. & Cameron, J. “Dictionary of Falklands Biography. Davis, John James (Cracker) 1893-1969” Online Resource: https:// www.falklandsbiographies.org/ biographies/ davis_john1 Accessed: 05/01/2022) had several commands from as early as 1917, when John would have been just 24 years old, including the cutters Indiana and Paloma, the ex-pilot boat Penguin and the Ketch Perfecto Garcia. John took work ferrying supplies & cargo between the islands and “working the tussac islands”, which I take to mean work moving sheep around (John had a flock of some 700 sheep & rented Hummock Island in the 1930’s to graze them) to take best advantage of the grazing on various islands seasonally. John became a part of the Intercoastal Trading Company in 1953, (as a shareholder, John is not on any crew list I have seen) as they purchased the Protector III from the South Atlantic Sealing Company (Colonial Development Corporation). In a twist of irony John Davis had captained the sealing vessel Port Richard (later known as the Afterglow) in the early 1930s for the Falkland Islands Sealing Company working at Albemarle  

John James (Cracker) Davis 1922 (Web Photo: Courtesy falklandsbiographies.org)

John or, as most Falkland Islanders seem to have known him, “Jack” (and more often by his own use “Cracker Jack” or just “Cracker”) is described as “….the last of the Falklands pirates, famous for flying the Jolly Roger from the masthead of vessels under his command” and was by all accounts a larger than life character, I strongly suggest any reader of this piece looks him up on the falklandsbiographies.org site, they don’t make them like John Davis anymore! It is with John Davis that final closure can be given to the Protector III and that her resting place on New Island can be understood, John had purchased New Island from George Scott in 1949 to farm and, presumably, graze his sheep. The Intercoastal Trading Company was a somewhat short lived venture, evidenced by the Harbourmaster’s letter “The vessel entered in the Coastal Trade of the Colony from March, 1953 to September, 1954 when the Company considered her a non paying proposition and she was put to anchor….”. It didn’t take long for the Protector III to put to sea again, this time undoubtedly to the annoyance of the Master of the HMS St Austell bay, whose evening plans were clearly disrupted……

Telegram to the Governor F.I. May 1954 (Web Photo: Courtesy Jane Cameron Archive F.I.)

The final puzzle piece falls into place with a comment from John James Davis biography “When the Intercoastal Trading Company was dissolved in 1954, Jack also became the sole owner of Protector III, but could not afford engine repair costs. In the early 1960s, he arranged for the Philomel to tow her to New Island, where she still lies beached in the harbour below the settlement”. I recalled a comment made in an e-mail to me, from Robert Rowlands, concerning the Protector III’s Engine condition: “……the guy who used to run the engine for him whilst she lay in Stanley did not prime the lube system with any pressure in advance of starting and of course it ruined the crankshaft bearings which ended her career and she was towed to New Island by an ex Admiralty MFV in 1969”. The final ignominious act of the Protector III and the reason she sits forlornly in the bay at New Island, lies at the feet of the Government of the Falkland Islands, more specifically the Harbourmaster (“Grierson, W.J. 1536. 16th April, 64”. Item 34. the Jane Cameron National Archives “SHI-VES-13-5. Disposal of mfv Protector III.pdf” Accessed 05/01/2022) who wrote to John Davis in 1964 saying “……The Sealer “Protector” which is at present lying in Stanley Harbour is being heavily buffeted by wind and I feel that she should be moved to a less vulnerable anchorage.”

Protector III New Island 1994 (Photo: Courtesy Ashlyn Prasad, Vancouver Maritime Museum)

So….I started with a question in the back of my mind, based on the information sent by Robert Rowlands just before Christmas of 2021…. “Is Protector III the Motorised Minesweeper MMS251” I have searched every archive I can, and found everything I believe is there to find. The search was not helped initially as the records for Protector III are buried in the National Archives filed along with “Ship Lamia”, for some reason that perhaps only an archivist would understand, and I am far from that, as I am sure you will have realised by now! I received the records in February of 2022 and they are ambiguous, the vessel is already called Protector III in 1947, at the time of her sale to the Eastern Sea Fisheries Joint Committee, and further enquiries into Protector III with Kings Lynn Port and their archives initially came up empty, as have enquiries to Wyvenhoe, the MoD/Navy sales port for the disposal of MMS250 & MMS251. The official number for Protector III, 166895, doesn’t bring anything more to the party I’m afraid either, as a search on that number gives the same 1947 and later years information

Protector III Registration September 22nd 1947 (Scan: Courtesy National Archives)

One surprising turn-out from the registration is the Master of Protector III, on her sale to Eastern sea Fisheries, a Master Mariner named Charles Walter Albert Chapple, now those of you who have read the piece on HMT Elk on this blog will perhaps recall that name? Charles Chapple is a distinguished Captain amongst those of the Minesweeping Fleets having served in both WWI and as Master of HMT Elk in World War II, indeed in 1940 he wins the Distinguished Service Cross, (second only to the Victoria Cross) for services to Minesweeping. Charles Chapple and his crew would trap and successfully recover a new kind of German mine whilst sweeping off the North East coast (it would turn out to be the first ever of a type of acoustic mine, and be defused by the specialists at HMS Vernon, the minesweeping command), and result in the development of the Kango acoustic hammer (designed by the Keyham Engineering College of Plymouth), mentioned earlier in this piece. HMT Elk was lost whilst trialing an “experimental steam powered anti mine device” likely an early version of the Kango mounted in the front hold of the little trawler, luckily, on that occasion all her crew survived 

Charles Chapple, Minewarfare & Clearance Diving Officers Association Medal Entry (Snip: Courtesy MCDOA)

I was convinced I had missed something….somewhere…..and was determined to take another shot in the various archives I felt she might still be hidden away, (somewhat spurred by the information on Protector III discovered in the National Archives under the “Ship Lamia” file) before reaching any conclusion on the Protector III. I took another look at the on-line catalogue for the Norfolk Record Office and found the catalogue reference (P/SHL/14) for vessel registrations in 1947, whilst there were no on-line catalogues to look through, when I sent the access request in to Jenny Watts the Senior Archivist at the Norfolk Records Office, they were happy to agree a search of that register, and that came back with Protector III as the very first entry for 1947…..Why had nothing been found beforehand?….who knows, change of personnel, change of search reference, missed by accident…it didn’t matter, I now had a two-page entry and it might just have been a second Christmas for the level of excitement and anticipation that generated!

Protector III Norfolk Register of Shipping, P/SHL/14, 1947 (Photo: Courtesy Norfolk Record Office)

I could barely contain the excitement when the PDF’s arrived 10 days later from Chloe, the researcher at the Norfolk Records Office, and I pored over both photos for anything that might categorically confirm MMS251 was registered as Protector III…..nothing, not a single specific to go on, no serial number against her engine, nor anything meaningful against her description “….wood. Fishery protection cruiser”……. I was disappointed to say the least, had she been a German vessel there would have been all the detail needed…..but she was British, made in Canada……and it was just my luck, just another teasing frustration in the story and history of Protector III……

Page 2 Protector III Norfolk Register of Shipping, P/SHL/14, 1947 (Photo: Courtesy Norfolk Record Office)

There is one more piece that might serve to define Protector III as MMS251, a mention in the commsmuseum site publication in regards to her pennant, now a vessels pennant (from “pendant”) is how she would have been recognised prior to 1948 whilst in service. Looking up MMS251’s designated pennant gave me J751, the letter is her class designation and that (J) was “Minesweeper”. Looking up the assigned pennant numbers shows a sequential numerical from MMS17 which carries the pennant J517, so a simple progression takes MMS251 to pennant number J751

MMS251 Pennant Notification (Web Photo: Courtesy commsmuseum.co.uk)

That pennant is also registered to MMS251 in David Shirlaw’s book The Arsenal of the North, however that is the conflicting source of sale to Harstad in 1947, the point to note there is that there is no anomaly between MMS250 (pennant J750) and MMS251 (pennant J751) in the sale notification  

Pennant Numbers to MMS250 & MMS251: From The Arsenal of the North (Web Snip: Courtesy D Shirlaw)
MMS250 as Harstad (Web Photo: Courtesy Skipet)

With the Skipet register for the Harstad clearly identifying MMS250 as the vessel sold to Norway the evidence is becoming compelling, at least circumstantially, that the vessel known as Protector III now lying in Coffin Bay on New Island in the Falkland Islands is almost certainly MMS251. Is this conclusive……no, it isn’t, I had come to the conclusion the only person who might ever answer the question absolutely is Robert Rowlands….. and I eagerly awaited his visit to New Island which could “categorically” state that she is either MMS250 or MMS251. I personally was convinced, by weight of probability alone, that Protector III is MMS251, and up to February of 2022 I had been unable to find “proof absolute” that she is….. believing it might not even exist, should the engine serial number have been removed or eroded from the heroic (and very likely, last of her kind), little vessel, abandoned, thanklessly at the ends of the Earth………………

Eastern Sea Fisheries, The First One Hundred Years (Photo: Courtesy Jon Butler Eastern ifca)

But then I had a stroke of luck, finally…… The request I had made to the Eastern Inshore Fisheries and Conservation Authority (the inheritors of the purchase of Protector III, then in their guise as the Eastern Sea Fisheries Joint Committee, which existed between 1894 and 1994 before becoming what is now “Eastern-ifca”), had been picked up by Jon Butler, their Head of Operations, who had kindly shared an internal piece written in commemoration of “The First One hundred Years of Fisheries Management Protection” printed in 1994 (The cover of which co-incidentally showed ESF Protector III, their current 1994 Fisheries Protection Vessel). The document had been saved in the personal collection of Eastern-ifca’s Admin Officer, Jodi Hammond, to whom history should be eternally grateful! The commemorative piece details Norfolk’s coastal fisheries activities and successes and explores their one hundred year fisheries protection history………and there it was……..writ large on page 12, incontrovertible evidence that meant I would finally be able to conclude this search. It transpired that the original “SS Protector”, employed by the Eastern Sea Fisheries District as a fisheries protection vessel (from its construction at Bridge Dockyard, Sunderland, by Robert Thompson & Sons and launched in August of 1899), had been replaced in 1903 (by a vessel built at Greenock by George Brown & Co), and had served between 1904 and the second world war, when the vessel was requisitioned for service, re-named HMS Thalia, and put to service as a minesweeper, sadly she was lost in a collision in Loch Linnhe, Scotland in 1942

Eastern Sea Fisheries Joint Committee, Protector III (Photo: Courtesy Jon Butler & Jodi Hammond, Eastern-Ifca)

The conclusive proof that Protector III is MMS251 is contained within a brief but concise paragraph in the Eastern Sea Fisheries Joint Committee publication “The First One Hundred Years 1894 – 1994” beautifully illustrated with the third of her name “Protector III” and states:

“When the war ended, it became imperative that a replacement be sought for the late “Protector” and Mr. Grice [now titled Chief Fishery Officer] set about investigating possibilities. His search was successful and the committee agreed to his recommendation that Motor Mine Sweeper No. 251 be purchased from the Director of Small Craft Disposals, Admiralty. It was minuted at the Joint Committee Meeting held in King’s Lynn on the 1st. of August 1946 that the recently acquired Fishery Protection Vessel be named “PROTECTOR III” and that she would be based in King’s Lynn.”

There is no ambiguity in the statement, it is categoric: “….that Motor Mine Sweeper No. 251 be purchased…” why so adamant, who knows, but it is clear……. and……. at last, final

Protector III, lying in Coffin Bay on New Island, in The Falkland Islands of the South Atlantic Ocean is MMS251!

Protector III, 1996. MMS 251, Survivor of Operation Neptune 1944, Survivor of Operation Calendar 1945, and Survivor of a 5500 mile Atlantic Ocean Crossing ……We Shall Never See Her Like Again
Winston Churchill to the Officers of the Minesweeper Flotillas
At The Going Down Of The Sun……And In The Morning

As ever, I am deeply indebted to those who have assisted in this piece and grateful for their help with information, photographs and research:  Robert Rowlands (The Falkland Collection), Tansy Bishop (The Jane Cameron National Archives F.I.), John Collins (Nottage Maritime Institute), Ashlyn Prasad (Vancouver Maritime Museum), Oralee O’Byrne (Age of Sail Museum) Jeff manning (Swansea Docks History), Ian Palfrey & Alison Bernard (Norfolk Record Office) John Jones (Wildfire III), Peter Hill (Wyvenhoe History), Gunnar Oversen, Jenny Watts (Senior Archivist, Norfolk Records Office), Chloe Van Roose (Norfolk Records Office), Jon Butler (Eastern-ifca), Jodi Hammond (Eastern-ifca) and, finally, the Minewarfare & Clearance Diving Officers Association (MCDOA)

And, of course, to those who “old age and senility” have made me miss from the credits above, and to whom I apologise most profoundly!

Filed Under: Other Stuff

Lanzarote, Arrecife

February 23, 2022 by Colin Jones

FSAC on Tour: Caverns, Blue Holes & a Wreck

The Cathedral (Web Photo: Courtesy Calipso Diving)

I had last seen a cavern on my trip to Florida and Ginny Springs in April 2004, Jason McNamara, one of my Divemasters had been living in Lanzarote for a year or so by then. Jason had returned on a family holiday with his girlfriend Nerina summer of ’04 and got talking about the diving there and had me interested, there were a couple of wrecks that were worth looking at and a couple of caverns too. It didn’t take me long to turn interest into another trip for FSAC and for my family, a little Canary Island Sun would not hurt anyone, especially in a UK Autumn likely to be close to zero degrees and wet with it! There were three of the club up for a dive break too, Tracy, Rob & Jim, all Nitrox students, and considering it would be a second break that year, Ellen was ok with it becoming an “official” dive trip that she and the boys would tag onto, just to enjoy the warmer weather and somewhere different. We managed to get decent accommodation behind Playa Blanca (away from the party area) in a nice little complex with a decent pool for Ellen & the boys and just down the road from some nice little back street restaurants for the evenings. The dive centre that would help us out and provide the RIB’s and gas mixes was Calipso Diving in Costa Teguise run by Jason & Nerina’s Dive Boss Peter

Calipso Diving, Costa Teguise (Web Photo: Courtesy Calipso Diving)

I have to say Lanzarote was not a destination I would have usually chosen as a holiday, the Canaries had something of a reputation for being “party” destinations and that was never going to be my idea of fun. It took Jason & Nerina some time to convince me there was a better side to the Islands than expected, and that the diving was good too, the flight time helped too, and there was plenty for Ellen & the lads so if the diving was as good as Jason & Nerina said then we’d all be happy! Once we had settled into the apartment’s and looked around the complex a bit I was happier, the boys were delighted with the pool, Ellen was happy and the rooms were great, well away from the 24/7 crowd too, not that we wouldn’t drop down to the harbour and its bars, but far enough away that we could spend some quieter time too….. We logged in with Calipso too, to get the kit sorted for the first dive which would be a wreck, the Rabat, a modern Seine Net fishing trawler that had failed to make it to dock sinking in 32m just off Arrecife

The Rabat Bow off Arrecife (Web Photo: Courtesy Matt32)

The Rabat was one of the fishing boats used to harvest the North African Seas around Cape Juby, fitted with freezer capabilities to facilitate longer and more productive trips, and a part of the Spanish economic boom of the 1960’s. The Franco Government had introduced programmes to encourage the ownership of bigger, more modern trawlers to improve the Spanish fishing fleets, and financed some of the purchase costs. Those larger vessels made their home ports in the Canaries and were operated largely by Galician fishing families who migrated South to the Canaries to take advantage of the Saharan coastal fish shoals (Meltzoff S. K. & Lipuma E. “the troubled seas of Spanish fishermen: marine policy and the economy of change” University of Miami Press Online Resource: https://anthrosource.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1525/ ae.1986.13.4.02a00060 Accessed: 13/02/2022) The increase in foreign fishing, especially in regards to Spanish fleets became controversial in the 1970’s and countries like Morocco, the prime North African coastline the Canary Island fleets had enjoyed,  began to protect their waters from Spanish fleets. Although when we dived the Rabat it was said to have “floundered as it tried to return to port”, it is now generally believed to have been scuttled by a disgruntled owner who could fish an ever decreasing area and was seeing greatly reduced catches as a result

Rabat Lettering on the Vessels Bridge (Web Photo: Courtesy ilanzarote.net)

My Green Navy Log recorded: “23/10/04 LANZAROTE The Rabat Wreck This is a fishing trawler which didn’t make it back into port. 10 mins from the harbour modern vari-speed props & wholly intact on it’s port side. Shot at stern & we fought a bit of a current to descend & look round the props, along a little at max depth & then into the stern via a hatch & through the hold area to see the nets still in place. Out of the deck hatch & along to the bridge which we cut up through, front glass still in place. Plenty of Amberjack & wonderful little crab-shrimp beautifully coloured – shoals of small silver fish. Back out along the starboard hull & up to the shot for the safety stop Air In 230 Out 100 32% Nitrox Mix Buddy Jim Leigh”

The Rabat, Starboard Gangway (Web Photo: Courtesy Matt32)

The Rabat was another one of those great dives spoiled somewhat by the likely method of sinking, although nothing could be certain, it takes the edge off a wreck dive when you suspect it has been an insurance job, sunk surreptitiously. It still is far removed from the placing of hulls deliberately to entice divers and I enjoyed the Rabat wreck on that basis, deliberate sinking had never been proven, just suspected………

Prop of the Rabat Wreck (Web Photo: Courtesy Matt32)

Our next dive was to be one Jason had talked about often, one of his favourites called the Blue Eyes or depending on whose dive centre you were with, Skull Cave. I think it opportune to point out that Lanzarote is a volcanic island, obvious to those of you who have perhaps visited Timanfaya Park, but not so to those who have not I rather suppose! Timanfaya is an active volcanic biosphere, named after the volcano that created it, Timanfaya volcano, it is well worth a visit and can easily be reached by car, or one of the numerous tours bookable at any of the island’s resorts, I was determined the family would get to see it and the divers wanted to come along too

Timanfaya Camels (Web Photo: Courtesy spain.info)

Ellen and I chose to get the kids there over the last mile or so by Camel, an easy ride in makeshift seats carrying several people either side on one animal, a far different affair than my last Camel ride in Tunisia where I was on my own, but then the boys were only 10 or 12 at the time so the seats were a better bet. The park shows many different features of a volcanic landscape from unusual Sulphurous smells, to BBQ’s over volcanic vents, and steam plumes escaping on regular occasions, giving a very surreal landscape which they enjoyed enormously, well worth a visit too. However the descriptive is only to illustrate the underwater features of the island’s coast as Lanzarote is pock-marked by volcanic vents which originate from lava tubes that have spewed out the rising molten rock, leaving behind the empty and sometimes collapsed tubes for those of a mind to explore, both on land and underwater around the coastline. Those lava vents are what forms the caverns and caves of the underwater terrain of Lanzarote, and it is to those we descend next

Blue Eyes Exit (Web Photo: Courtesy ilanzarote.net)

Calipso had arranged for us to take several of the cave and cavern dives as shore dives and provided us with a dive guide to ensure we got the right entry and exit, and a decent truck for the gear, as a couple of the drop-off points would be local tracks to make the swims shorter, the log records: “25/10/04 LANZAROTE Blue Eyes/Skull Caves. Long swim out to the cave with plenty of colourful fish with a very large Ray in the sand which took off as if “on cue” beautiful! A shoal of Barracuda with many fish just to our right & then into the cave from 14m to 30 a narrow entrance which has several “windows” allowing light in, then into the main chamber full of nooks & crannies & air wells down a narrow hallway to exit from the Skull’s left eye. Very nice dive. Off back to deco through the ascent & climb out up the shore rock plateau. Nitrox 32% Air In 200 Out 60 Buddy Jim Leigh” The cavern diving on Lanzarote is nothing particularly challenging, there is light visible throughout, and the diving is excellent for the tourist diver who wants a little more than rock sand and the occasional colourful fish. The other side of the caverns is the lure that they have, the almost imperceptible temptation to want to see beyond the light, to go further into the dark places, I was beginning to understand the title of Martyn Farr’s caving book “The Darkness Beckons”

The Cathedral (Web Photo: Courtesy TripAdvisor)

Our next dive would be the Cathedral, a local feature of the volcanic vents perhaps, either way, a huge cavern mouth in the rock face at 30m or so to the sand, so a deeper dive for those getting used to using Nitrox. All three students were taking the transition in their strides, Tracy, Jim & Rob were enjoying it too, the overall feeling reported was nothing dramatic, just a clearer feeling on the dive and less fatigue than previously. Pointing out the safer aspect of equivalent air depth calculations for dive times, and the better Oxygenation in circulation just rounded off the experience I think, the more enjoyable experience of being in clear, warm Blue water was not lost on them either, Stoney Cove is a great training environment but the cold experienced in 4’ water can easily call longer dive-times into question….especially in winter

Playas Chicas, Lanzarote (Web Photo: Courtesy TripAdvisor)

Most of the diving in Lanzarote is shore diving, I’m not worried how I get to a dive site as long as the diving is good, I’m not convinced that the reason shore diving is more prevalent is the fees for RIB hire the dive-shops would incur, or the cost of buying dive-RIBs, but whatever, you go with the flow where you must! Another trip out in the 4 x 4 with our gear following in the truck and we reached the headland and our entry point at Playa Chica (which I believe translates as beach girl), with two pronounced rock headlands sticking out into the sea either side of the beach itself, the log book records: “26/10/04 LANZAROTE “The Cathedral” a huge overhang which housed soft corals and plenty of small fish all really beautifully coloured. One large grouper resident and another out to the far side of the overhang. Plenty of sea slugs & fish on the swim back & a strong current to fight too Nitrox 32 Air In 200 Out 70 Buddy Jim Leigh” I recall humping the dive kit down to the entry point on the rocks was a little challenging, volcanic rock is pretty abrasive stuff, you wouldn’t want to take a fall, so care is needed! The issue with shore diving that does warrant some discussion is dive pricing, as we are all aware, RIB diving can be expensive, it’s not unreasonable for the main, as dive-centres would go out of business if it were, but it is pricey. Shore diving abroad doesn’t seem that much cheaper, there is the transport and local knowledge of the entry & exit points, and the actual sites themselves, but be cautious, there are plenty of options in most areas, check what you are getting, one dive guide between 4 divers often is not sufficient, especially in caves, or if two buddy pairs don’t breathe at similar rates…….

Blue Hole, Puerto Del Carmen (Web Photo: Courtesy Manta)

The Blue Hole is probably the best known dive on Lanzarote, it even features on PADI’s web site, which should indicate how popular the dive is to those visiting the Canaries. It is the best of the lava tube dives available to untrained cavern enthusiasts and tourist divers alike and the longest, the entry is close to the one used for the Cathedral, by Playas Chicas, but off the pier itself, my log entry for the dive reads: “27/10/04 LANZAROTE “Blue Hole” Playa Del Carmen 10’ giant stride from the pier then a choppy swim over & a descent & swim past huge shoals of fish including a large shoal of Barracuda up to about 3’ long. Drop down to 45m at a rock pinnacle & then back up & through the blue hole which is a decent swim through from 30m to 18m full of soft corals. great dive. Air In 250 Out 160 buddy Jim Leigh” I liked this dive most, although each had its high points and was good in different ways, the Blue Hole was a decent length swim through and there was a shaft of brilliant light you could see at the end, where the funnel meets the plateau of the sea bed above you leading back to the beach. I didn’t mention the bubbles escaping from the porous lava rock of the plateau, or the Eel garden we swam over on the way back, perhaps the main of the swim through distracted me, but I do remember these points but did not note them at the time

As ever, this post would be nothing without the pictures, I’d like to thank those who have contributed, Calipso Diving, Manta and especially Matthew Williams (Matt32) for kind permission to use his excellent shots of the Rabat Wreck

Filed Under: Caverns & Caves, Fenton Sub Aqua Club, Other Stuff

SS Dolius 1956

February 9, 2022 by Colin Jones

Dolius, Sailing in Ballast, Flat Calm Seas, Stadersand, on the Elbe Estuary, Hamburg c1960 (Web Photo: Courtesy Andreas Hoppe)

Dolius was brand new when my father joined her at Harland and Wolff’s Belfast yard, so new in fact, that her paint was likely still wet in places, Dolius was on her sea trials when Engineering Cadet Ian Jones and her crew sailed on the 03rd January 1956, Captain S. G. Ellams taking Dolius, and the high and mighty of the Blue Funnel line including Lawrence Holt, one of the owners, on her maiden voyage across the Irish sea to Liverpool, to load for embarkation on her first deep sea voyage. The crossing was an eventful one of sorts, fog making berthing Dolius in Vittoria Dock impossible that day, forcing her to anchor up in the Mersey estuary until the next morning, when the fog had cleared sufficiently to make docking safe

Dad’s Log: Dolius’ Delivery from H&W and First Ocean Voyage 1956

Dolius was a new variant of the Blue Funnel “A” class boats, designated, officially, “A Class Mark 5”, although ships of this class would eventually be known as “D Class” to the wider Blue Funnel family and workforce. So……. what was different then, to distinguish a Blue Funnel A Class MkV vessel like Dolius (the “common” classification ‘D boats’ was taken from the naming protocols, Dolius, Demodocus, Diomed…etc), from an A Class? The immediate giveaway is the position of the lifeboats each side of the rear of the Bridge and Passengers accommodation, and, on the D Boats, at the crew quarters known to the crew as “the sailors house”, aft (rearwards) of No 4 hatch (rhiw.com “The Blue Funnel Line “D” Boats” On-Line resource: rhiw.com/y_mor/blue_funnel_home/d_boats/d_boats/d_class.htm Accessed 08/08/2021). Then there was an additional (small) cargo hatch and two derricks (cranes) on the “poop deck” (the rearmost deck, at the stern of the ship), the bulwarks (the front facing panels of the bridge wings Port & Starboard) on the bridge wings were steel, while on the A Class they were wooden and the A Class Mk 5 ships were a little longer too, by around 5 feet

Dolius GA Drawing (Photo: Courtesy Archives National Maritime Museum Liverpool)

Dolius was a little “odd” in that her bulwarks were wooden at her commissioning and for quite some time after (until her name was changed to Glenfruin in 1970 I believe) when they were eventually painted White. To confuse things even more, several of the A Class Mk5 ships were given A Class names, Ajax, Achilles and Antenor….I believe Dolius was the last Blue Funnel ship from the Harland and Wolff Belfast Yard as her sister ships, both A Class Mk 5’s, Demodocus and Diomed were completed at Vickers Tyneside yard in Newcastle, fitted with six cylinder Burmeister & Wain Engines where Dolius was outfitted with a Harland and Wolff built unit 

H&W log entry for Dolius (Web Photo: Courtesy Harland & Wolff)
Dolius on the Slip Harland & Wolff 1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy H&W Archive)

Ian Jones, now an experienced cadet, having returned from a successful trip on Blue Funnel’s Helenus to the far reaches of Empire and as far South as you might reasonably go, Australia, found himself with another prestige deployment, the maiden voyage of Dolius, brand new and of such importance that Lawrence Holt himself had undertaken the voyage to Liverpool from Harland and Wolff in Belfast. Dolius first voyage was under Captain W.K. Kerr, (a noteworthy marine artist apparently) on the bridge and well out of sight of Cadet Jones who would have found himself in Dolius engine room, far enough from the likes of Lawrence Holt and Captain Kerr as to ensure he could not become an embarrassment at such an early point in his career with the Blue Funnel line…. Deep in her hull Dolius carried a state of the art Harland and Wolff diesel engine, a six cylinder marine diesel unit known as a “single acting” engine

Dolius Single Acting (S.A.) Diesel Engine by Harland & Wolff 1956 (Web Photo: Courtesy gracesguide.co.uk)

So what of her outfitting and the standards of the time, what would Engineering Cadet Ian Jones or one of Dolius Passengers expect when embarking on one of Alfred Holt’s voyages of discovery across the globe? In researching Dolius I was fortunate enough to come across the Harland and Wolff archive registry for Dolius and it contained an index of un-published photographs taken during construction and at and during her launch. I took the opportunity of getting in touch with the National Museums of Northern Ireland H&W archivist, Stephen Weir, to see if the photos could be accessed and if I could be allowed to re-produce them for this piece. After several chats across the ether Stephen agreed to send me some low resolution scans from which I could choose those photos I would want to include in the piece and H&W would scan and send them across. I must say I was probably a little too excited at this than any normal adult should be, I anticipated the photos with a kind of childlike expectation, somewhat akin to waiting for Christmas when you are 6 or 7 years old……..Anyhow, what follows is a set of photos that to my knowledge and that of Stephen at Harland and Wolff, have never previously been seen, I hope you agree, they were well worth the wait!

Dolius Christening as her Champagne Bottle Breaks Across Her Bow (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

I have little idea who took the photos but likely they were a record of the last days before launch, they have the kind of look of an amateur from within the company or perhaps one of the company executives with the privilege of access rather than the “professionally commissioned” type of shot? I would be pleased had I taken some of these back in the day but they seem to lack that stark “polish” of a professional studio photographer or publicity type photo’s, if I’m honest, that makes them a little more “real” to me

4th August 1955, Dolius Slides Elegantly Down the Slip at Harland & Wolff Belfast Yard (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

In the 1950’s the austerity of the war years was slowly being replaced with the optimism of the baby boomer years, there was a move away from the restrained and a more laissez faire approach started to creep into fashion and that permeated slowly into furnishings and fittings, people wanted to see that the sacrifices of the war years meant something, that things would be better from that point and that restraint was no longer the way forward, there was an air of extravagance that by 1950 had become “modern”, new materials created out of the necessity of the war had new purpose, there was  a rush to provide materials for re-construction and plastics and nylon derivatives had started to influence designers in Europe, keen to get back to international trade. The 1950’s were not quite the boom years, but they heralded the excesses of the 1960’s and laid the ground for huge shifts in style and design, some of that is evident in the fittings used in the Dolius, the furnishings and perhaps even extravagances of the cabin fixtures of what was, after all, not a cruise ship, but a merchantman

En-Suite Passenger Cabin, Dolius 1956 (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

Alfred Holt and his Family had always ensured their ships were of a better standard than was considered “normal” for the day, there was always provision for passengers aboard the Blue Funnel Ships and accommodation was always of a more than comfortable standard to encourage perhaps the better of the travelling classes to join the Holt line aboard, for trips to exotic locations yet to be available on commercial airlines, but times were shifting, the war years had shown, if nothing else, that “time” was a factor in life, perhaps more so to the generation of the 1950’s than ever before

Dolius Passenger Dining Lounge (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

Looking at the style of the furnishings and fittings Dolius was appointed with gives the distinct impression of the influence of the Italian liners, there are not, perhaps, the extravagant inlay and marquetry panels of the Andria Doria, but there are extensive laminate wall and ceiling panels, the dining chairs show a rather stylish Leather and Lime-Wood or Light Oak back paneling, somewhat more than would have been usual on a merchantman of the day, but clearly in keeping with the Holt approach and definitely a move away from Spartan, the parquet flooring another rather expensive if not extravagant touch

Dolius, Captain Ellam’s Cabin (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

The Captain was taken care of too, everything I have heard in regards to the Masters of Blue Funnel ships speaks to the high regard the company had for them, Blue Funnel did not insure their vessels through Lloyd’s of London, choosing to put up the insurance entirely through the company finances, I believe the Captains were part of this inasmuch as they had a portion of their wages retained against a kind of performance bonus. The mutual trust implicit in such an arrangement cannot be understated, and, although I am sure Blue Funnel Captains were not without their faults and that this system would not prevent the odd incident, it certainly invested the Captain’s in their vessels and the company profitability, not surprising then to find the Captains cabins were, to say the least, comfortable! 

Captain’s Day Room, Dolius 1956 (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

When Dolius left the slip at Harland & Wolff’s Belfast yard, it was clear she was built with the expectation of the age, the anticipation of profitable commerce and maybe even more profitable provenance. Dolius price tag was a respectable, for the time, £1.45million and her owners anticipated a return on that investment in short order

Harland & Wolff Craning Dolius Funnel into Place (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

So, Dolius is ready, her fit-out complete and her sea trials in Belfast Loch and out to the Irish sea underway, she handles well and is quickly passed off for service and makes her way across the Irish Sea to her home port of Liverpool taking esteemed guests such as Lawrence Holt, one of the owners of the Blue Funnel Line with her, and now Engineering Cadet Ian Jones and those in the belly of the ship get to test her engines…….

Dolius on Sea Trials, Belfast Lough 1955 (Photo: Courtesy © National Museums NI)

Dolius first trip across the Irish sea would not be entirely without incident, on approach to the Mersey Estuary there was fog, so dense as to make it impossible to dock, Lawrence Holt seems to have taken this in his stride, radioing ahead to advise those expecting her to dock to inform them of the delay and a night at anchor out in Liverpool Bay

Dolius Outbound, Fully Loaded, in the Mersey with the Dome on the Rock, New Brighton, Behind Her (Web Photo: Courtesy Wirral in old photographs)

It was not long before Dolius was put to serious work, a change of Master to S.G. Ellams and a departure from Birkenhead on January 20th, at 11.39pm, a precise time, recorded in her Journal held in the archives in the Albert Dock museum for Liverpool Maritime Museum. For anyone with an interest in the Blue Funnel Line, their ships or their associated shipping lines, Elder-Dempster, Glen-Line or The Ocean Steam Ship Company for example, a trip to the Archives on the second floor of the Liverpool Maritime Museum is a must! It’s a little hidden, being in an alcove at the top of the stairs, but it is a treasure trove and the archivists are extremely helpful and very knowledgeable, as I found out on several visits, the last in early February of this year (2022) when I was researching this piece

Merseyside Maritime Museum Liverpool (Web Photo: Courtesy liverpoolmuseums.org.uk)

As research is not something the whole family perhaps enjoys, the museum itself is a fascinating place with many ships models and historic displays through the ages of sea travel & conquest, and there are many maritime related pieces around the Albert Dock. Lusitania’s prop, one of three that drove her deeper into the sea off Old Kinsale Head, thwarting attempts to lower her lifeboats in 1915, sits across the dock from the museum. There are also several merchant and marine memorials for those lost in WWII, and for those who remember merchant navy training, the exhibit at the entrance is the anchor from HMS Conway. HMS Conway was a three masted ship of the line, formerly HMS Nile, once moored in the Menai Straits as a training college, which co-incidentally, my Uncle Keith, Ian’s brother was trained on. Sadly the Conway broke her tow, 14th April of 1953, en-route to Birkenhead (for a scheduled re-fit) following a poorly executed, and weather affected exercise to get her through one of Britain’s most treacherous tide-races. HMS Conway, a veteran of the Crimean War, ended up ashore badly damaged, and, before anyone thinks it, Conway was not insured. Some three or so years later, in October of 1956 she suffered fire damage and was declared a constructive loss, I can find no cause listed for the fire but its results were both fatal to HMS Conway and a tragic loss to maritime history

One of Lusitania’s 3 Propellers, Across the Quay from The Maritime Museum

So, with shiny new paint, and all systems up and running, with sea trials complete and with Cadet engineer Ian Jones down in the huge engine room, all that was left to do was to take her to sea….and what a journey her first would be! Master S.G. Ellams had orders to take Dolius to the Far East, Singapore in fact, and she would get there via the Suez Canal, a journey my father had already made on his own first outing on Blue Funnel’s Helenus just a year before…….That’s written up in another post on here if you have an interest……

Dolius, Vittoria Dock, Birkenhead (Web Photo: Courtesy Facebook Ships of the Mersey)

Dolius would be taking Engineering Cadet Ian Jones back to some of the places he would now be familiar with, and perhaps a few more he would eventually become familiar with, and speak of in terms you knew hinted he’d had quite a time in too! I was far too young to understand where dad was getting the amazing toys we would see in my childhood, a pump action gun that fired ping-pong balls was one of my favorite’s and springs immediately to mind, if for no other reason than it was responsible for breaking at least one porcelain ornament my mother clearly loved (and perhaps my father did not…..?), I can remember that scene very well! But in later years when, perhaps, I should have been asking about Dad’s voyages and his experiences, it would not be straightforward, as often is the case, I was one of those willful teenagers with an attitude and I missed the chance through the angst and anger of trying to grow up….. 

Dolius Entry in the Ocean Steam Ship Company Voyage Register 1956

When Dad was growing up he did it in style, how many teenagers get the chance to see the world, how many of those do so training with Britain’s premier shipping line…..and I bet even fewer got to see the world’s most exotic ports and the countries and people that such places are owned, run and frequented by. So Dolius had taken him from Ireland to Birkenhead, and now out into the oceans of the wider world to re-visit Port Said as January melted into February of 1956, and transit Suez via the canal, reaching Aden 03rd February, and with tensions rising in the area times were increasingly dangerous and it was probably a relief to see the back of Aden and move on to Penang

Port Swettenham Pier 1956 (Web Photo: Courtesy Facebook)

Penang was a British Malayan dependency, first acquired in 1786 following the establishment of a favorable relationship with the Sultan of Kedah by Francis Light (later Captain Francis light) of the British East India Company in the late 1770’s. Kedah was under threat from Burma, Siam, and the Bugis (supporters of local dissidents in Kedah), Sultan Abdullah Mukarram Shah welcomed the help of the British to establish a force in the area, offering Penang Island as a base for such endeavor. It would not be until 1786, when British involvement in the war against the emerging independence of America (allied with the French and Dutch against British rule), that Britain and the East India Company would officially land on Penang and raise the Union Jack, eventually building a fortified settlement (Fort Cornwallis) and George Town, named after King George III (Editorial “The Founding of Penang” Online Resource: http://www.sabrizain.org/malaya/straits1.htm Accessed 06/02/2022). Despite an invasion by the Japanese in December of 1941 and occupancy there until the later part of WWII (The Royal marines Liberated George Town from the Japanese in September of 1945), the British maintained control of Penang until just a year after Dolius visit when, in January of 1957, George Town was granted City status by Queen Elizabeth II

George Town Penang c1960 (Photo: Courtesy John Shield)

It would be Port Swettenham, the Docks of Penang that Dolius would reach 14th of February 1956, just two years after Penang exports topped the one million tons mark (Editorial “The Story of North Port” Online Resource: https://thehub.mmc.com.my/Q1/page52.html Accessed 06/02/2022) forcing the construction of a new deep-water port, christened Northport, and prompting the creation of the Swettenham Advisory Board (PSAB), but Dolius would unload from the traditional dock shown above, later known as Port Klang after the Klang river which forms the bay estuary

Seaman’s Mission Swimming Pool Penang (Photo: Courtesy Gwyn Jones)

Likely the first port of call once unloading or cargo transfer had been squared away would have been the seaman’s mission, a popular stop off for the Blue Funnel crews, as was the City of Light dance hall. Dolius was in dock at Swettenham for several days between 14th Feb and 21st Feb 1956 (when she docked in Singapore) so there would have been some time to explore Penang at least and it wasn’t a huge area then, and certainly the port and surroundings would have been accessible, even if shore time was tight  

Neoh Sze Hoon (?), Hong Kong Bar, Penang c1956 (Photo: Courtesy Philip Braithwaite)

Penang’s favourite haunt, the Hong Kong Bar was run in 1956 by Neoh Sze Hoon & Hong Kee from 1953 (although it had been open since 1920) after their escape from China in the communist uprising, their son Tan (Known as Peter by the Blue Funnel Crews) took over running the bar in 2000 when his mother Neoh passed away (Tan’s father, Hong, having died in 1993). The Hong Kong bar still exists (for those of you lucky enough to visit the area), despite a devastating fire in 2004 that all but destroyed it, and all the shipping and military memorabilia that hung its walls

Hong Kong Bar Memorabilia (Photo: Courtesy Georgie Marsh)

The Hong Kong bar has thankfully undergone a complete refurbishment, and some of the wall decoration survived and has been included in the current décor, it is nice to see both the recovery and the ties to history made by the owners as much as it is to anticipate a Tiger Beer or two at the bar one day perhaps……..

The Hong Kong Bar Penang (Photo: Courtesy Ross Hopwood)

By February 14th Dolius had left Port Swettenham and moved on to Singapore (not a long journey at 414 (nautical) miles), passing Kuala Lumpur and Malacca City along the Malayan peninsula in what was known as the straits of Malacca. I am sure Dad would have loved the opportunity to stop in Kuala Lumpur if nothing else just to say he’d been there, but the sights of Singapore would have made up for that. Singapore started as a fishing village on an island at the tip of Malaya, known then as Temasek (“Sea Town” in Javanese), situated between the Singapore and Kallang rivers, it was nondescript and typical of a thousand other fishing villages in the area, but well placed and, as most fishing villages are, possessed of a reasonably deep and sheltered estuary

Singapore 1825, as Thomas Raffles would have known it (Web Photo: Courtesy wikipedia)

When Thomas Raffles landed on the 28th January of 1819, in that most adventurous of ages leading to and encompassing Queen Victoria’s reign, perhaps it was only he who could see the potential the little Singapore River’s fishing village with its protective rocky outcrop sheltering its wide bay at Ferry Point, and its ready access to Malay and Asian trade routes both on land and by sea

Singapore Harbour c1956 (Web Photo: Courtesy National Archive Singapore)    

The trade routes of Asia and the East India Company of Thomas Stamford Raffles ensured Singapore flourished as a trade port, it would be the captain of HMS Meander, Henry Keppel who discovered a deep-water anchorage further around the river in 1848, whilst tasked with clearing the Malaccan straits of pirates, Keppel would have the bay named in his honour and established a new harbour there completed (following his survey of the area) in 1886 (Editorial “The Story of Keppel Bay: Captain Keppel” Online Resource: https://www.roots.gov.sg/stories-landing/stories/the-story-of-keppel-bay/story Accessed 07/02/2022). By the 1920’s, with Japan clearly looking to build its empire following its assistance to the Allies in WWI, Britain had decided to strengthen its hold of the Far Eastern trade routes and build a naval base there, although delayed by a change of Government, the base was opened in 1938 by the High Commissioner for the Malay States, Sir Shelton Thomas

Warehouses & Bum Boats Singapore c1956 (Web Photo: Courtesy CNN)

Those of you familiar with the site will have seen the reference to bum boats before perhaps, if not they were the local skiffs which rowed out to trade with ships at anchor in the bays of the Asian ports, often filled with what would now be called tourist “tat”, but in the day they traded the latest radio’s from Japan & China, watches, clothes, beer, spirits, cigarettes, wild animals (occasionally Monkeys, Parakeets and other exotic caged birds) even girls….. Everything you might want or need, especially if you were not going to get shore leave any time you were there, which often depended on your job aboard or the time it took to un-load and re-load the cargo for the next leg of the journey 

Unloading a Propeller, Singapore (Photo: Courtesy Ken Bolton)

The shore side and quayside at Singapore was busy in a way that Westerners these days would not perhaps recognise, the water of the river brown with every kind of discarded detritus from foodstuff to waste, and the noise and smells around the narrow streets can only be imagined, from the fires and exotic dishes being hawked by street food traders to the paint used to refresh the ships hulls, and the paraffin’s and oils and the diverse cargoes of the ships themselves, Hemp, Palm Oil, livestock etc….. that, along with the smells of the river itself, must have been a heady assault on the nostrils until you managed to get a little further into Singapore town

Street Traders, Singapore Quayside c1956 (Web Photo: Courtesy National University of Singapore)

It would not be until 1969, way after my father left Blue Funnel and his seafaring days behind, that Singapore’s Prime Minister Lee would begin to clean up the pollution of the Singapore River and the Kallang Basin, compelling the Bum-Boat owners and street traders to move from the estuary and its quays: “The government subsequently ruled that hawkers, squatters, makeshift industries (with the exception of the lighters), storehouses and others who made their living alongside the river, would have to be relocated in other areas as early as possible” (Cecilia Tortajada “Clean-up Of The Singapore River: Before And After” Online Resource https://lkyspp.nus.edu.sg/gia/article/clean-up-of-the-singapore-river-before-and-after Accessed: 07/02/2022)

Cathay Cinema, Singapore Town 1955 (Web Photo: Courtesy thesmartlocal.com)

I know my dad was a cinema fan, he often went to the movies and it was a particularly popular pastime with his generation so it is highly likely, as an engineering cadet (who’s hours of work would have been more lenient than say their more senior colleagues and qualified engineering staff), that he was able to get to the Cathay cinema and see a movie, as I am sure many of the crew of Dolius would have done before hitting the Hong Kong Bar or any of the multitude of other entertainments of Singapore in 1956. It may even be the case he got to see some of the film work going on in the area for the production of “A Town Like Alice”, the Nevil Shute novel filmed in part in Singapore and Penang, starring Virginia McKenna and Peter Finch, a tale of the Japanese invasion of Malaya and the brutal treatment of the British and Australians left behind by the evacuation process (Singapore film locations archive: “a town like alice (1956)” Online Resource: https://sgfilmlocations.com/2014/11/27/a-town-like-alice-1956/ Accessed 07/02/2022). Dolius was in Singapore twice on her maiden voyage, between 21st and 26th of Feb, when she was back in Penang at Port Swettenham, and between 29th of Feb and 10th March when she again left for Penang. By the time Engineering Cadet Ian Jones left the Malay Peninsular he would have been immersed and versed in the cultures of East Asia, and likely used to a hangover too……. 

Keppel Bay Docks, Singapore (Photo: Courtesy Ken Bolton)

With the docks at Keppel Bay to her stern for the final time on this voyage, Dolius headed to Penang arriving there 12th March of 1956 and departing for Suez somewhere around the 20th March reaching Port Said on the 25th March. As I have already covered the area before on Helenus voyage of 1955, and in an effort not to bore anyone to death with the length of this piece I will (reluctantly) limit myself to looking at Dolius’ last port of call before she makes her way home to the Mersey estuary and Liverpool. Dolius departed Port Said for Gibraltar, arriving at noon on the 31st of March of 1956, it was a mere 26 days following the visit of the royal Yacht Britannia, and HRH Prince Philip, The Duke of Edinburgh, who had inspected the Guard of Honour of the Royal Marines on HMS Glasgow, amongst other duties that day

HRH Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh Gibraltar 1956 (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

It was also that year that the Corps of Royal Engineers would hold a ceremony in the tunnels of the Rock, as Gibraltar is commonly known, to mark the centenary of their corps and to celebrate construction of “The Great North Road”, a mile long thoroughfare built to ensure soldiers and equipment could remain safe from Luftwaffe bombings during the Second World War. There are still covert posts being uncovered from that era, dug out and concealed for use by special operations squads should the rock have fallen into enemy hands, but long since forgotten until very recently, with equipment still in place, as if ready to use

The Great North Road under the Rock of Gibraltar (Web Photo: Courtesy mirror.co.uk)

Gibraltar is one of the most important British territories and has been since the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713, strategically located at the most Southern tip of Spain, at the “Pillars of Hercules”, the ancient name for the mouth of the Mediterranean Sea, where it sits directly opposite Morocco and Africa. There have been the usual contentions about the “sovereignty” of Gibraltar, as there have other British territories abroad, perhaps seen as “relics of Empire” by some? I look at things in a different way than most, there have been conquests across the globe for the whole of mankind’s existence, no one nation being less or more guilty than any other in reality, from the Han Chinese to the Umayyad Caliphate, the Mongols, Ottomans, Spanish, Egyptians, Romans, Greeks, Mesopotamians, Carthaginians, Persians, Mayans, Moors, Japanese, Austro-Hungarians or the Russians and Americans….etc! To me it is simple, if the people currently dominant in a place wish to remain tied to a particular nation, then that is what should continue until they decide otherwise…..all else is simply a hypocritical, covert land grabbing attempt, by those claiming sovereignty in the manner, variously of Argentina and Spain today (in respect to the Falkland Islands and Gibraltar)……but, luckily, I do not have to be anyone’s “politician” as the time I spent in the Diplomatic Corps were clearly, very much…. wasted years!  

Gibraltar, with Morocco in the Distance (Web Photo: Courtesy Peter Cumberlidge)

I cannot imagine anyone docking in Gibraltar, for no matter how short a time, who, besides a cold pint of Lager (insert your favourite beer/drink here), wouldn’t want to acquaint themselves with the ubiquitous “Rock Apes” of Gibraltar (No….Not the RAF Regiment, for those of you who served some time in HM forces….). The Barbary Macaque apes have made Gibraltar more famous than perhaps any other animal has managed in their native country, despite seemingly being an introduced species. The wild population of Macaques on Gibraltar were likely introduced by the North African Berber traders (“Barbary” is a derivative of “Berber”) before the British rule began and, apparently (Editorial: Wikipedia “Barbary macaques in Gibraltar” Online Resource: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbary_macaques_in_Gibraltar Accessed: 08/02/2022), although it is “possible” they are remnants from a European population prior to the last ice-age, most believe that those became extinct 30,000 years ago. Macaques now number some 5 identified tribes on the Rock, and are increasing in numbers, going against the trend in their native North African population, which is declining. They are known and can be seen as resourceful and exceptionally cheeky with tourists, anyone spending a little time on YouTube can watch countless and amusing (for the observer, rather than the victim) incidents involving thievery and ingenuity from these beautiful but devious animals. They have even charmed royalty, in 1954 when HM Queen Elizabeth and HRH Prince Philip visited the Rock they spent time with the apes, there is nothing to note how that went, but I suppose even anarchic apes know when not to push their luck…..

Behave or it’s the Tower for You Sonny Jim! (Web Photo: Courtesy express.co.uk)

Let’s assume Cadet Ian Jones got to see the Rock Apes of Gibraltar before Dolius up-anchored and left, why would he not have eh….? But the remaining mysteries of Gibraltar would still be there for another trip, whether that was the bars of the dock area or the military history of the Great North Road and the tunnels of the Royal Engineers, it would all still be there another day. Now it was time for Dolius to go home, Liverpool was calling and beyond that, after unloading there was Swansea and an inspection planned, time to check over Holt’s newest vessel and see that she was still Lloyd’s A+ fit…….And that is a tale for another day

Dolius 14th April 1955 Approaching Swansea Docks with 3 tugs in attendance (Web Photo: Courtesy swanseadocks.com)
Log Entries, Dolius 1956: Harland & Wolff, Belfast Lough Sea Trials & Maiden Voyage East

As always, I would like to sincerely thank those who made this piece possible, and without whose help it would have been a far far lesser read! Firstly the staff at the Liverpool Maritime Museum Archive for helping an idiot to research, and then for the kind use of their excellent photographs, Mr Andreas Hoppe, Mr Stephen Weir of the National Museums Northern Ireland, Mr John Shield, Mr Gwyn Jones, Mr Philip Braithwaite, Mr Ross Hopwood, Mr Georgie Marsh, Mr Ken Bolton & finally Mr Peter Cumberlidge

Filed Under: Blue Funnel Line

The Wrecks of Ravnic

February 4, 2022 by Colin Jones

SS Brioni

SS Brioni (Web Photo: Courtesy Signor Stelio Zoratto)

The Steamship Brioni was built for Österreichischer Lloyd of Trieste, as a mixed passenger-cargo ship, in the shipyard Cantiere Navale Triestino (CNT) in Monfalcone. The Brioni was launched in December 1909 and was to sail the coastal routes of the Adriatic, from Trieste to Dalmatia and Albania transporting passengers and cargo alike. Brioni was a typical coastal steamship of her day, small enough to access the sometimes compact ports of the Adriatic Islands and multi-purpose to make best financial advantage of trade and passengers to the benefit of her owners. Brioni would probably be best be described as “unremarkable” for all intents and purposes, a somewhat disingenuous term for such a workhorse, but as you will see, somewhat prescient……. 

Monfalcone Shipyard, c1909 (Web photo: Courtesy Associazione Marinara Aldebaran, Trieste)

Even the yard which laid her keel and built her, 30 kilometres west of Trieste (on the shores of a somewhat unhealthy, recently reclaimed swamp at Panzano), on the seafront of Monfalcone, had little to commend it other than its availability, its proximity to a local workforce and the high price of ships from British Shipyards in a falling Austro-Hungarian economy. Brioni was a ship of her time, not built for the glamour of the Italian migration across to the America’s, and not yet the child of growing international tourism in the soon to become glamorous Adriatic archipelago’s, but a solid and functional steamship, as capable of carrying passengers to Constantinople as lumber and fine wines to Split, and the home ports of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The decision to construct a shipyard on the Panzano seafront overlooked by Falcon Mountain (Monfalcone) was taken by the Cosulich Brothers of Mali Losinj, part of an Island chain south of the Istrian city of Pula, itself a port of call for Osterreicher Lloyd with a broad promenade and large natural harbor

Callisto Cosulich 1847-1918 (Web Photo: Courtesy Cosulich Archive)
Alberto Cosulich 1849-1927 (Web Photo: Courtesy Cosulich Archive)

In 1852, the Cosulich brothers Antonio, Gaspare and Marco, bought the sail ships Gloria and Marco and ordered a third, two-masted sailing ship from a shipyard in Fiume, naming her Elena Cosulich after their mother. Fortune favoured the Cosulich family, the Crimean War had compelled the French and the English to charter almost any ship available in the region to support the campaign against Russia and the Cosulich ships were used, almost exclusively and at very high charter rates for almost two years, this income enabled the Cosulich brothers to add to their fleet and led to increasing success. With the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, and now based out of Trieste (the leading trade city for merchants, insurers, ship-owners and everything connected with the shipping trades), the Cosulich Shipping line was going from success to success. By 1907, under the Cosulich brothers Callisto and Alberto, the Cosulich fleet consisted of 24 sea-going steamers and a harbour tug (Italianliners.com “Cosulich line, History” Online resource: Accessed 21/10/2021), but a worsening of international economic conditions, and a fall of the Austrian currency against the British pound, meant buying ships from the British shipyards was no longer economically viable, and the family decided to develop their own shipyard. Oscar Cosulich, Callisto’s son, and Arturo Rebulla, the mayor of Monfalcone, were school friends, Rebulla offered Cosulich the swamp at Panzano, on the seafront of Monfalcone, to be reclaimed to become the site of the Cosulich shipyard

Cantiere Navale Triestino Share Certificate

Local contracting companies, Faccanoni and Adriatica, had excavated large basins there to recover earth for the construction of the port of Trieste (“Shipyard History, Cantiere Navale Triestino (CNT)” Online resource: muca.elemind.com/en/shipyard-history/ Accessed 21/10/2021) as the area was also close to the Valentinis Canal, with fresh water coming from the Dottori Canal, it made the area ideal for ship construction. On the 3rd April, 1908 the shipyard was inaugurated, becoming the Cantiere Navale Triestino (CNT). The Cosulich brothers were innovators and philanthropic too, they not only planned the shipyard but a company town complete with houses for married workers, hostels for unmarried employees, schools and even recreation facilities such as a theatre and sporting clubs. Monfalcone was very similar, it would seem, to Port Sunlight (1888) or Bourneville (1900) in England, and Cosulich even invited three Scottish managers from Russell & Co (the shipyard where many of their earlier vessels had been launched), to join them as managers, fitting out their workshops with the most high-tech machinery of the times

Monfalcone Machine Works c1907 (Web Photo: Courtesy Associazione Marinara Aldebaran, Trieste)

It is at this point, 1908, when the Monfalcone shipyard produces its first ship, albeit seemingly unannounced, for the Cosulich Brothers, under the direction of Scottish engineer James Stewart, (former technical inspector of the Austrian Union of Navigation), and chief engineer, Andrew Munroe. With the two Scottish Engineers came two hundred skilled workers, arriving from the United Kingdom to complete the Iron & Steelwork

(Carnemolla, S.E. “Monfalcone, history of a shipyard” Online Resource: https://doi.org/10.4000/diacronie. 2584 Accessed 21/10/2021), although the riveters were said to be local Istrians, and the carpentry was carried out using local tradespeople too. When it comes to recorded detail of the early ships out of Monfalcone Yard, there is scant detail available, despite research requests to the archives of several of the local sources in Italy the only record of the named ships produced in those first years at Monfalcone (Carnemolla, S.E. “Monfalcone, history of a shipyard, 2. The first passenger units” Online Resource:  https:// doi.org/ 10.4000/ diacronie. 2584 Accessed 21/10/2021) are:

“Between the spring and summer of 1908 the Trieste and the Split were set on the ports, two mixed steamers of 896 GRT ordered at the Shipyard by the Società Anonima di Navigazione a Vapore Dalmatia”

And:

“In 1909 it was the turn of the Nereide, a cargo steamer of 3,405 GRT for the Tommaso Cossovich Società Anonima di Navigazione a Vapore of Trieste”

Trieste 1909, the first Monfalcone Steamship (Web Photo: Courtesy Associazione Marinara Aldebaran, Trieste)

Now the only conclusion that seems reasonable as the two “…. set on the ports, two mixed steamers of 896 GRT….” noted to be during spring/summer of 1908, which means that Brioni could have only followed them shortly after, as  Brioni was launched in 1909 out of the Monfalcone yard and, seemingly, without either fanfare or mention. I had thought it a reasonable assumption, in the circumstances, that the Brioni was, to use the expression, “set on the ports” either late in 1908 or very early in 1909, I was lucky enough to receive confirmation from Signor Nereo Castelli of the Associazione Marinara Aldebaran in Trieste, that the actual date for the Brioni Order was 12th of July of 1908. A little further digging did surface a series of documents from the museum at Monfalcone and their archivist who chose to remain anonymous under the admin banner “Amministrazione Posta Elettronica Beniculturali” but to whom I extend my gratitude for the wonderful documents sent on, only some of which are used here

Registration of the Steamer Brioni (Scan Courtesy: [email protected])

The certificate and documents of registration for Brioni, built and registered to the Cosulich Brothers subsidiary, the Società Anonima di Navigazione a Vapore Del Lloyd. It is clear that the fortune of the Cosulich brothers was still in the ascendancy at this point, Stefania Elena Carnemolla goes on to throw a focus on the future ambitions of Callisto and Alberto: 

“In 1910 the Cosulich obtained from Vienna a state subsidy agreement for the shipping line with Argentina. It was in this context that the Kaiser Franz Joseph I was born, a passenger steamer of 12,567 GRT for the Austrian Navigation Union. From the traditional and elegant external line, bow to tagliamare, slightly inclined, elliptical stern, central formwork surmounted by two large chimneys, subsequently lowered, the Kaiser Franz Joseph I, with three classes, was launched on September 9, 1911 in the presence of Maria Gioseffa and Massimiliano, archdukes of Austria……”

The Brioni (Web Photo: Courtesy WorthPoint)

Perhaps the Brioni pretty much slipped under the Radar in 1909 because Callisto and Alberto had bigger concerns, perhaps the opportunities of the coastal Adriatic trades were wearing a little thin by now, perhaps, as the Austro-Hungarian Empire seemed about to expand its horizons beyond European shores? Nonetheless, the Brioni was launched 12th of February 1909 and fitted out at Split between then and the 12th of May of 1909 and, again, there is little if anything to announce her launch. Whatever the reason, the Brioni continued her humble path through to the Levant and served the Consorzio di Navigazione a Vapore of Trieste well, carrying passengers and cargo along the Adriatic coastal routes, from Trieste to Pula and Split, even to Brioni itself perhaps……

For those of you obsessed by detail;

The original documents held in the Trieste Maritime Archives are far more interesting to anyone with a love of the arcane, and a connection with those yellowed and handwritten entries, buried, deep, in the ledgers of companies long since faded from the memory of most of the world, but still there, a tenuous and wonderful connection with the colossal empires which, when they clashed, brought half a world to its knees…….

Austriaco Lloyd Sign-Off for the Steamship Brioni 30 December 1909 (Copy: Courtesy [email protected])
Brioni Alongside, Probably Trieste c1920 (Photo Courtesy: Signor Mario Cicogna)

There are some details which allow a wider view of Brioni’s career between her launch and her loss in 1930 and I am very grateful to the former archivist of the Museo del Mare in Trieste, Signor Stelio Zoratto who provided me with the information available for the known movements of the Brioni, these are hardly a comprehensive lexicon for a ship carrying out two or three journey’s a week for some 21 years of service however many of the records for the Osterreichischer Lloyd company and her various iterations, Lloyd Austriaco, Societa Anonima di Navigazione a Vapore and Lloyd Triestino, were held in archives heavily bombed during the second world war, although there are bound to be more detailed accounts somewhere in the Austro-Hungarian libraries and various official halls of records. It would probably require an Italian or German national, with a great deal of time on their hands, in order to uncover more than I have managed, between the various museums and maritime archives I have been privileged to have the assistance of for this piece:

Museo del Mare, Trieste Records:

Data Sheet for the Brioni (Data: Courtesy Signor Nereo Castelli)

The Arms of the Austro-Hungarian Navy 1867-1918 (Web Illustration: Courtesy Wikipedia)

There is a brief mention of the 08:1914 “Seetransportleitung” requisition buried in a piece about the Hungaro-Croatia Sea Steamship Co Ltd (1892-1921) which references two “older steamers” one of which, by the Museo del Mare account, is very likely to have been the Brioni (Horvath. J “Hungaro-Croatian Sea Steamship Co. Ltd. (Ungaro-Croata), 1892-1921” On line resource: https://hajoregiszter.hu/tarsasag/tengeri/magyar_horvat _tengeri_gozhajozasi_rt__ungaro-croata_/ 46?nyelv=en Accessed 23/10/2021)  “Fortunately, the Seetransportleitung set up in Fiume did not make use of this possibility at once, only two older steamers capable for troop transport were employed between Fiume and Pola and only until the end of the year” as this is a 1914 reference it is difficult not to associate the event and the Brioni, even though she is not mentioned by name specifically. The piece would seem to confirm, in conjunction with the information on the data sheet from Signor Stelio Zoratto, that Brioni played her part (however small), in the Austro-Hungarian war efforts of World War I, carrying troops and, from the second entry, perhaps even munitions & mines in 1914, and then again after a period “Disarmed” from 1914 to 1916, at which point she was again requisitioned as a troop transport for the Austro-Hungarian (“A.U”) Army

Brioni Docked & Loading Lumber, at San Giovanni di Medua, now Shengjin, Albania (Photo, Slightly Digitally Cleaned, Courtesy: Signor Stelio Zoratto)

I dived Brioni in July of 2019 on a second dive trip to Viz, I had the remains of the tri-mix I’d used on the B17 there the day before and had it topped off to dive Brioni. By now I had filled the Green Navy dive-log I had started all those years ago in 1990 and was on a nice and similar hard back from Log-it, so from now on it’s the “Blue Log”…..and it records: “17/07/2019 Brioni Komiza Croatia BRIONI a steamship @ 100m approx.. this had been a luxury transporter carrying both cargo & high end luxury passengers. Lost in a storm with no known explanation (nav error?) The wreck is on it’s Port side & beautiful! Covered in Yellow gorgonians but still carrying wooden planking in places this dive started at the stern & prop down the centre of the hull with more time would’ve meant spending time in penetration. I could spend a week on this wreck it’s just magnificent – must do it again!!”          

Brioni, Teak Decking Intact at Her Bow (Web Photo: Courtesy Wolfgang Polezer crodive.info)

I had no idea the Brioni was going to be such a beautiful wreck, the Island of Viz is truly blessed in ship and plane wreck terms and I never tire of going back. I planned another couple of dives on Brioni this last year (2021) but illness put paid to the dives even though I got to Komiza, I will again return next year God willing, the call of Brioni is strong. I also have unfinished business on Brioni as the Go-Pro failed me for some reason and the dive taken didn’t record. Brioni is dived in an unusual manner by local dive centers, I use Manta, Andi Marovich, the owner, is a friend and Aniska, Andi’s sister, is not only a friend but a great diver and host too, it is always good to return, and know you are supported by professionals

Manta Dive Centre, Komiza, Viz

The Brioni was a surprise, we were dropped off at her stern, the shallowest part of the wreck, as mentioned in the dive log entry, and this seems to be the local “norm”, where UK dive centers would drop you at the deepest point of the wreck as a matter of course. My comment in the dive log is confusing, written in haste, and should read “….more time in penetration would mean more time in decompression”. The Brioni’s stern is her shallowest area, the shelter deck at around 45m and her prop around 50m so my dive began at 45m and the swim down Brioni’s hull, at 70m long, is a considerable one, when you consider you are descending from 45m down to the sea bed at her bow at close to 65m. I had no desire to swim her quickly, and took time to enjoy the Starboard run along her and all the life she has attracted since her sinking in 1930

Brioni, Stern Rudder & Prop (Photo: Courtesy Franco Banfi wildlifephototours.ch)

Getting to Brioni’s bow and turning the dive you cannot help but be taken by the sight of beautiful Yellow sponges all along the wreck, wherever you look they catch your dive lights and make a marked contrast to the deep blue of the Adriatic framing the wreck’s outline. Franco’s shot of the Brioni’s stern shows how pretty the wreck is in terms of the marine life, and there are plenty of fish around her too, depending on the time of year. I have a general rule that I will not penetrate a wreck on my first dive on her, no matter what, Brioni was no exception, I was running slow and enjoying the view, my gas was doing fine and deco was not going to be extensive at around 20 minutes half way back, but the Brioni is one of those wrecks you need to get inside, I cannot wait to dive her again, next summer cannot come quickly enough!

Brioni, Likely Leaving Trieste (Photo: Courtesy Signor Mario Cicogna)

Brioni had already been aground once before her destiny finally caught up with her, on the night of the 16th of February of 1917, at the height of the First World War. Brioni grounded at Gallon Rock near the island of Veglia, the Austrian Navy tug SMS Herkules eventually managing to get her afloat a couple of days later (when her cargo had been lightened), on the 01st March of 1917

The SMS Herkules at Anchor c1915 (Photo: Courtesy Giuseppe, bibliotecamai)

The Brioni was towed to Fiume (Modern Day Rijeka) for repairs and then, after a month, in April of 1917 she transfers to Trieste and resumed service between Albania and Trieste, presumably carrying supplies, munitions and troops, before falling into the hands of the Allies following the end of the war in 1918. Brioni would see another 12 years of service between Trieste, Sibenik, Ancona and Split from 1919 and then Trieste to Albania in 1921, before taking a charter to the Puglia SA Steam Navigation line, the South Eastern heel of Italy where the Brioni covered journeys to and from Venice, Trieste, Pula, Lošinj, Dalmatia, Albania, Bari, Corfu, Preveza and Santa Maura

The Brioni Wreck Site at Ravnik (Web Photo: Courtesy Google Earth)

It would be on one of her journeys between Split and Vis, carrying a cargo of wine and tobacco, that Brioni went to the bottom of the Adriatic off the islet of Ravnik, Cape Jezera, in poor weather and having clearly made a navigational error, putting her “on” instead of between the Vis headland at Teplus and Ravnik or the islets of Mali Budikovac and Ravnik. There were two lives lost on that awful evening, there is no mention I can find of the two who went down with the Brioni, however, just a couple of months ago Andi took divers into Brioni and, on surfacing, one of them asked if there were still human remains on her, as he believed he had identified a human vertebrae in her engine room. The diver was a forensic anthropologist, which puts him in a fairly good professional position to comment, he had left the bone where it was out of respect, however Andi did not manage to find it on a later dive. Being found in the engine room, it would indicate the two lost were stokers, perhaps the last to know the ship was sinking in such circumstances and, deep enough in the Brioni that if she foundered quickly, might have found their route to the upper decks difficult to say the least    

In Memory of Those Souls Lost on the Brioni 09th February 1930

I am, as always, deeply indebted to those who helped me with this piece: Dr Claudia Morgan (Retd) formerly of the Musei di Storia ed Arte di Trieste, Signor Stelio Zoratto (Retd), former librarian of the Civico Museo del Mare Trieste and his colleagues & researchers Signor Nereo Castelli of the Associazione Marinara Aldebaran in Trieste and Signor Mario Cicogna, Giuseppe of the reproductions dept. of Bibliotecami, and the unknown archivist at [email protected]

I am especially indebted to my occasional dive buddy, and stellar international photographer, Franco Banfi and to our hosts and friends Andi & Aniska at Manta Divers, Komiza, Viz

2022 Update:

I managed to return to Viz in August of this year and carried out a series of dives with Andi, Aniska & Manta Divers. I could not have passed over the chance to dive on Brioni again and make up for the missing video of the 2019 trip……..My Blue log book describes the dives:

“31/08/2022 BRIONI KOMIZA The Brioni – My favourite Viz wreck (ship) & one I wrote up extensively on the blog. This steamer lies bow down @ 60m & we had to swim for 7 or 8 minutes to find her & descend. I spent a run down her deck to her bow & filmed her Anchor then swam her decks back to the stern & round to her prop, a wonderful 20 minutes – on to her safe & back up to deco on the rocks she ran into – a marvellous dive with Coral, Anemones & fish everywhere“

Take a dive on the Brioni with me, this is a run down her hull to the bows, back to her stern & then a little deco

Or you can check out the No 2 hold and Bridge Superstructure and then deco with some friendly Fish Shoals if you prefer?

The second dive on her: “06/09/2022 BRIONI – Back to Brioni to round off the holiday diving! Dropped in with a short swim to do to reach Brioni! I was after filming her bridge area @ 50m or so & managed to drop in & achieve that. A short swim into No 2 closest to bridge) hold & a look round for future runs. I think you can run all holds as 1 run but need to confirm that Stayed in & around the bridge for 15 minutes then up to deco with pretty shoals of small & medium fish Brilliant Dive!“

Filed Under: Best Dives Ever

TRI-MIX

January 18, 2022 by Colin Jones

Laughing Gas by any Other Name!

OK, so it is a little while since I last wrote a piece on training or continuing my educational diving journey, so now a little more self-indulgence if you will permit me…..oh, and even if you won’t, as you can easily skip this, continuing to read is in your own hands…..

SS Aida, The Red Sea: Descending to Her Stern (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

I had done a considerable amount of Nitrox Diving by the close of 1999 and had begun to take things into the “Technical Nitrox” realm, I don’t suppose there is an official determination for what does or doesn’t delineate between Nitrox as a safe gas for diving, and Nitrox as a means of extending dive times, essentially they are entwined. I would, personally, only classify by a particular dive, and the intentions of the diver and the chosen gas mix or dive site, and the aims and conditions implicit. For the purposes of this piece, and bearing in mind I was both an IANTD Nitrox instructor and a PADI Nitrox instructor by this point, and had a background as a BSAC Advanced Instructor…….which meant I could pretty much please myself what I called the diving I was personally doing, without causing a crisis of conscience! If I was extending the dive-time or had a partial pressure above 0.4 then I was carrying out an IANTD Nitrox dive, if the PPO2 was 0.4 and I was using up the gas from the IANTD Nitrox dive….I was diving PADI…..anything else was a “rogue” BSAC outing!

Deeper Dives Compel Longer Decompression Obligations (Photo: Courtesy Mark Milburn)

It kind of shows where the industry was at the time too, IANTD knew what they were talking about, the foundation of their courses was Dick Rutkowski, Billy Deans and Tom Mount, from a start point in 1985 from the commercial off-shore diving gas management skills, practically transferred into the deeper or more technical dives of the recreational diving arena. When Kevin Gurr and Phil Short (and a few others), brought the IANTD training to the UK dive scene in the early 90’s, it stepped up the arguments across the recreational dive landscape and had everyone talking. It would not be until around 1994 that BSAC would admit that many of their divers were hemorrhaging across to IANTD to learn the art of Devil Gas Diving, and, in 1996, almost a decade after Nitrox introduction to the recreational diving world, PADI would capitulate it’s “air diving only” stance and develop its “EANx” courses. Having started Nitrox diving with Don Shirley in 1996 I could say I was, at least, early on the uptake, and by May of 1997 I had reached instructor status with IANTD, a milestone in my diving career and one I was secretly a little proud of!

Wreck Penetration, Decompression…….. Almost Inevitable! (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

By 1997 I was using twin 12l cylinders to pack in as much gas as I could carry, I was using side-mount gasses in one or  two 7L 300Bar cylinders to ensure extended decompression stops could be undertaken, and I think it’s safe to say I had “strayed” into “Technical Nitrox” territory. This wasn’t every dive by any means, but it was a way of significantly extending wreck dives, and I loved that. It was still a challenge to get Nitrox fills, but, with Stoney Cove just an hour down the road that wasn’t a huge issue when they started supplying gas mixes, and deco gas to those qualified to use it, and there was Budgie at Portland for fills on the dives I loved from my Army days with Toots. I was never a “deep” junkie, one of those divers with something to prove, who constantly prattled on about “60m dives on the Medina in raging channel currents” to try to impress at the bar in the evening, but I was spending 30 or 40 minutes on the wrecks I was diving, and felt far better than I would have diving air. Don Shirley had departed for South Africa to set up an IANTD franchise by 1997 and I had met Angus Cowie and Bob Scullion, Bob ran a dive centre out of South Shields and Angus was training him up on Technical Nitrox and something called “Tri-Mix”….now I’m a curious kind of bloke as you might have guessed………

Backscatter off Silt or Dislodged Rust, Dangerous Stuff inside a Wreck (Photo: Courtesy Gary Newbould)

I had a couple of students that were interested in some deeper diving, they had enjoyed the IANTD Nitrox course I’d ran and were keen on the Advanced Nitrox course, as I took them through the decompression gas swaps at Stoney Cove and had them spend time at 36m on the hydro-box they were shaping up pretty well. We had set-up a deco bar and hung a reserve gas cylinder from it, and run through a dozen reg swaps apiece, all done well, despite the cold after 15 minutes down at 36m in 4’ water, it was winter, somewhere around January/February, what better time to spend twice the time in the water and see if you could still perform skills n drills………. By Christmas of 1999 and New Year of 2000 they were approaching readiness for a trip up to Wastwater in Cumbria, a good shore dive spot which I knew would not get blown-out like many of the South Coast spots in winter, but also hellishly picturesque and there was a bonus as 50m was achievable fairly close to the shore. Now it took to April of 2000 to get everyone organised to get up to Wastwater, but in-between I’d managed to stagger each of them to complete refreshers at 36m in Stoney, and up to Jackdaw Quarry at Capernwray to do some kit swap-outs and problem solving, so by April they were as ready as they would ever be   

Wastwater “….Hellishly Picturesque” (Web Photo: Courtesy A Stephenson)

The trip up to Wastwater is a long one, the journey (primarily up the M6), is unremarkable, until you get around Lancaster when it starts to become far more pleasing on the eye. Once above Lancaster you need to turn off the M6 and pick up the A590 which becomes more and more scenic until you are in the mountains of the Lake District proper, away from Windermere and the tourists, not that there were many tourists about in early April of 2000! After Newby Bridge the drive to Broughton is gently winding, and once you pass Eskdale you start to get into the hills for real, it doesn’t take long until you can see Scafell Pike and then drop down to the lakeside road, with Wastwater to your front (and within a couple of minutes it’s on your right), as you pass from the Southern end a half mile up and see the odd car parked up, where fell walkers have started out for a day in the hills. There is a hummock on the right after half a mile or so, grassy but with bare rock too, that’s where we parked up and where you will find an area of gravel and shallows stretching out 5 to 10m or so, and it’s here most enter the lake, and immediately below that you find what was an oddly BSAC kind of feature….the Gnome Garden    

Ho Ho……No! (Web Photo: Courtesy Underwater Adventures)

Yes, you read that right, there are perhaps a dozen (or were) garden gnomes and a little fence placed in Wastwater which were, when we dived it, at around 35m or so as I recall. Now I will let my dive log describe the dive: “02/04/00 Wastwater Cumbria Deep Dive Down to the Gnome Garden for bottom time after setting up a stage for deco. Viz 5m-ish Air In 230 Out 110 W Temp 8’ Buddys Darren & Jason” You can tell how excited I was from the description…… Now I may be pushing someone’s buttons with this but I don’t care, I cannot see any reason for anyone to take a garden gnome into a pristine glacial lake? I struggle with a mentality that would consider that either appropriate, or entertaining? Is there much to see in Wastwater, no, not really……. it is more a dive for the experience of the surroundings, the adventure of the trip to get there, and the feeling of isolation and peace at such depths, within of course the dive parameters you set to start with. I wish people would keep their litter to themselves, if you have a garden and you want a gnome in it, for whatever reason, fine….it’s your garden, crack on….. But, when you are as fed up with your stupid gnome as anyone else is already, FFS put it in a bin, give it to a friend (to take stupid holiday snaps of in exotic places to “amuse” other like-minded “people”)….whatever, but keep it away from dive sites….all of them!   The second dive of the day went a similar way “02/04/00 Wastwater Cumbria Deep Dive to Gnomes again this time saw a dozen plus up to deco station & out Viz 5m Air In 110 out 40 W Temp 8’ Buddy Angus” Another tellingly short descriptive……….

Rosalie Moller, Gubal Island in The Red Sea, Alan & Craig, Deeper & Longer…. (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Perhaps it’s just me, but I see diving as one of the last places on Earth where the mindless throw-away mentality of the ignorant is (or was) seen….. sadly now, more and more, there is litter appearing on dives, it’s a tragic result of our abuse of this planet and its resources……. Anyhow, let’s focus on the positives more eh! After the second dive I got chatting to Angus and he suggested giving Tri-Mix a go, it wasn’t as if I hadn’t heard of Tri-Mix, it features in IANTD training throughout the courses, with regards to kit configuration and gas mixes to suit dive depths and Oxygen parameters. So I agreed to run through the introductory course with Angus and take a dive with him in a month’s time off South Shields with Bob & the team. The book learning was simple enough now, Don had killed my math demons and I could work through gas mixes and Oxygen toxicity, adding Helium into the mix was simple enough, after all, I would not be blending the gas, just analysing it and taking account of the decompression obligations of it. The impression is that Helium is added for deeper dives, quite correct, however the impact of adding Helium is not usually quite so well understood without an actual course behind you, Helium takes longer to wash safely out of the blood, meaning your decompression will be more intense, with more stops and longer durations, as you progress through the water column. The balance of less likelihood of Oxygen toxicity and the resultant potential unconsciousness or loss of function, is weighed against time required to surface   

Decompression Can Get Busy (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Tri-Mix was an obvious extension of the diving I was doing, there had been a gentle and natural progression to deeper diving which I didn’t particularly recognise at the time, even though it was happening to me. My first Tri-Mix dive was with Angus off the South Shields coast on a wreck Bob had only just discovered and had yet to identify, it appears in my Green Log as “Tri-Mix Dive Newcastle” and transfers to my little Red Log as it was a wreck no matter what it was called…. “21/05/00 SOUTH SHIELDS UNKNOWN VIRGIN WRECK Off South Shields (Direct in line with white hotel & tower) A “Massive” wreck @ 54m bottom depth. We hit in at the shot at 50m and only managed 15min bottom time on Jasons air consumption. The only piece we saw was the hull which stretched off well beyond the 10m viz even in the dark. I really enjoyed the descent & had a great dive even on the crowded shot & deco station, Jason missed his 12 9 & 6m stops & could have died” I had to stay to complete my stops, it’s a brutal thing to leave a friend to his fate, I had tried to hold Jason on the shot but couldn’t, his suit valve malfunctioned and he was just too buoyant. The only saving grace, and the reason he is still with us today, was the short duration of the dive, Jason had hoovered his gas, we called the dive half way through expected bottom time to ensure he had sufficient to achieve his stops and transfer onto 80% deco gas…….. It saved his life, but the journey back to shore was a tense one, Jason in a sleeping bag on oxygen the whole way, luckily without any bend…..and very luckily he stayed that way

The Bar at Fort Bovisands 1990, a Great Many Hours of Decompression Expected……….. 

Jason’s nightmare ascent had not put me off Tri-Mix, I still dive it (despite being over 60 now), when there are good deep dives to do, but you will hear of some of those reading elsewhere in this diary of a madman. I think there is something more to be said here too, the key is that Tri-Mix is just another tool in the box, it has an advantage in what would be considered by most to be very deep dives, those in excess of 50m where Air and Nitrox are no longer a way forward, indeed where Air itself starts to become toxic, and adding Oxygen would compound the problems. Nitrox works down to around the 40m mark (depending on your mix, and the PPO2 limitations set by your agency), 21% “normoxic” Air can be, and is, used between 40m and 60m, but with an increased likelihood of narcosis, the performance impacts of which can manifest in various ways, but are most often described as similar to the effects of too many beers at a bar….. poor judgement, impaired physical performance and, often most debilitating, an increasing lack of clarity or increasing state of confusion. Tri-Mix offers an “Equivalent Narcotic Depth” in almost the same way Nitrox offers an Equivalent Air Depth, just by using an additional gas, Helium, in the mix……the results are simple, less chance of narcosis (through partial pressure of Oxygen above 1.4 (PP02)), the down side of the addition of Helium to your breathing gas……longer decompression requirements……. And, as Helium is an expensive gas, a far more expensive dive!


Deep Decompression Stops, SS Aida, in the Red Sea (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Whenever Tri-Mix comes up in my thoughts, I drift back to my first dive course ever, sat at the bar in Fort Bovisands after a dive off the Glen Strathallen at around 10m or so, I was talking with two very experienced BSAC divers, senior members of their respective clubs, they were doing deep dives on Tri-Mix which was practically unheard of in recreational diving at that time (1990), they were adamant they would likely be ostracized if the others in the club found out, and no doubt they were right, but what I recall most was that these were not typical thrill-seekers but studious and kind of intense people, a recently separated woman and her new boyfriend, I mention that only as, to those who might know the circumstances, it may ring a bell in BSAC circles and verify the very early use of Tri-Mix in recreational diving at the times I recall. The conversation was detailed in regards to planning and equipment, but my personal take and comment to the divers at the time was “I don’t ever see myself diving beyond 20m, unless there was something really compelling to see” …… Famous last words….. I have often recalled that conversation whilst sat on long deco stops too 

Heading to a Long Deco Stop (Photo: Courtesy Mark Milburn)

Without the pictures the story would not be half as interesting, my sincere thanks go to those who’s skills far surpass my own in underwater & land photography: Derek Aughton, Mark Milburn of Atlantic Scuba, Underwater Adventures and Gary Newbold. And for the scenery on land: Mr A Stephenson

Epilogue: 17th January 2022

It is with Deep Sadness that we say farewell to Tom Mount, Founder of the International Association of Nitrox & Technical Divers. Tom was an Inspiration to generations of Divers including myself and Tom will be missed by the Diving Industry and those of IANTD alike

Tom Mount RIP

Filed Under: Training

The Wrecks of the Red Sea

January 10, 2022 by Colin Jones

Rosalie Moller

Rosalie Moller as SS Francis (Web Photo: Courtesy clydeships.co.uk)

The Rosalie Moller began life in 1910 as the steamer SS Francis, built for the Booth Line of Liverpool by the Clydebank shipyard Barclay, Curle & Company of Whiteinch, Glasgow. The Francis was built to be an intermediate Passenger & Cargo ship, her capacity sufficient to take economic loads whilst able to accommodate some passenger trade. The Francis had accommodation for 17 First Class passengers, 5 x 3 bed cabins and 2 x 2 bed cabins, these would most likely see senior executives of the Booth Line, transiting to Manaus and back, or its premiere customers, (Booth Line had several larger “Tourist” vessels, notably SS Hildebrand & SS Hilary and others… far more luxurious than the SS Francis, for larger scale tourism & Grand Tour purposes) and perhaps some senior managers and foremen, essentially upper management. The SS Francis also had accommodation for up to 76 passengers to her stern in the No 4 Hold area indicated as “steerage”, she was also, ahead of her time, fitted with a “Marconi House” for a telegraph

The SS Francis General Arrangement Sketch (Booth Line Scan: Courtesy Roger Hull)

Barclay Curle & Company, shipbuilders, had a traditional Clydebank Shipyard, typical of the  Scottish opportunists of the Victorian era, a yard having begun with sailing ships and progressed to building Iron, and eventually steel hulled vessels, as the industrial steam age accelerated the industries of Great Britain in the late 18th and early 19th century. Founded in 1818, by John Barclay, the yard was successful and, when John died in 1845 the sailing-ship business was taken over by his son, Robert, who took James Hamilton and Robert Curle into partnership as Robert Barclay and Curle. The name changed again in 1863, when Robert Barclay died, becoming Barclay, Curle and Co

Robert Barclay & Curle, Clydebank Shipyard c1818 (Photo of F T Morton Painting: Courtesy Clyde Navigation Trust)

The SS Francis was a typical ship of her time, a triple expansion steam engine driving a single propeller shaft, producing some 400 or so nominal horsepower, and giving her a top speed of 11 knots. The Francis was a workhorse, reliable, well designed, and using dependable technology, in order to ensure the Booth Line many years of service, hauling Leather and Rubber in her Four spacious holds, configured Two to her For’ard and another Two to her Aft. The Francis was a good looking, utilitarian ship, economic but attractive in a kind of “industrial” sense, exactly what the Booth Line wanted for the long journey to Brazil and the colonies

Additional Details:

Barclay, Curle & Co Ltd, Whiteinch, Glasgow c1890 (Web Illustration: Courtesy shipsnostalgia.com)

It would only be two years after the successful delivery to Booth Line (in 1912) that the Barclay & Curle Shipbuilding business would be taken over by Swan, Hunter and Wigham Richardson, including the Clydeholm and Elderslie shipyards and dry docks, and the dry docks in Govan. You might remember Swan Hunter Wigham & Richardson built the Port Napier, another Clyde wreck on this site……..another 6 degrees of separation!

Barclay Curle & Co Glasgow Shipyard (Web Photo: Courtesy Canmore.org.uk)

Barclay Curle & Co had begun making their own engines in 1857, they were Steam driven, largely triple expansion engines from what I can determine. The SS Francis was certainly fitted with a triple expansion engine, and it was one of Barclay & Curles’ own designs with an output of 401 horsepower, the boiler likely of the Inglis Marine design of 1909, illustrated in the Barclay & Curle trade advert from Graces’ Guide (Grace’s Guide: “Barclay, Curle & Co” illustration 3 “Inglis Marine Boiler”. https:// www.gracesguide.co.uk/ Barclay,_Curle_and_Co Accessed: 09/01/2022) shown below

Inglis Marine Steam Boiler 1909, Barclay Curle & Co (Web Photo: Courtesy Graces Guide)

Triple Expansion engines work by passing steam (from boiling water), under pressure, into a chamber containing a piston, the “Triple Expansion” method makes use of the highest pressure in the smallest cylinder first, the expanding (cooling) steam then passes into a second slightly larger (slightly lower pressure) cylinder, activating a second piston, and then finally the steam moves into the largest, lowest pressure cylinder where it activates a third piston. Following the expansion, or driving, cycle the remaining steam is passed into a condenser which re-cycles it back, as water, to the boiler for re-use. If you want to see an example of a Triple Expansion steam engine sat on the sea-bed, then look up the video of the Torpedo Alley wreck “Caribsea”, which will eventually be loaded on this site………….  Craig and I get to swim around the engine from the Steamer Caribsea, in the Atlantic, on the North Carolina coast, and it gives you some idea of a smaller sized triple expansion steam engine, and offers some perspective of scale  

Triple Expansion Marine Steam Engine c1905 (Web Scan: Courtesy Wikimedia)

The Clydeside shipyards mostly relied on the heavy lift cranes at Glasgow Harbour, at the western end of Plantation Quay, for fitting engines, transmissions, and the larger plant into the ships they constructed. The first built was the Clyde Villa Crane, capable of lifting up to 130 tons. (“Finnieston Crane, History” Online Resource:  https://www.scotlandguides.org/tour/finnieston-crane-glasgow-3281.htm Accessed: 18/11/2021) installed in the 1890s in Princes Dock, in front of Govan Town Hall

Clyde Villa, One of Two Glasgow Heavy Lift Cranes in 1910 (Web Photo: Courtesy glasgowhistory.com)

A sister crane (The Finnieston Crane) was located a bit further upriver on the site now occupied by the City Inn. These cranes would eventually be complimented by “Titan” cantilever cranes, luckily Scotland is proud enough to have kept these reminders of their shipyard history, and examples of the Titans can still be seen alongside the Barclay, Curle & Company buildings and in the Glasgow port

Barclay & Curle’s Titan Crane (Web Photo: Courtesy Flickr)

The SS Francis owners, Booth line, were trading in Leather exports, Rubber imports and passenger routes between Liverpool and the Amazon basin. In 1910 the global rubber trade centered around Manaus, 94% of the substance originated from the Amazon region, Amazonia, and this was shipped via the River Negro (Rio Negro) primarily by the Booth Line, the most significant traders in Amazonia, with palatial offices in the town that would not have looked out of place in any British city, typical statement edifices, not unlike those in the City Centre of Liverpool itself

Booth Line Buildings, Manaus, Brazil (Web Photo: Courtesy alifeatsea)

Discovered by Spanish explorers in 1499, the mouth of the Amazon River is 70 odd miles wide, Francisco Orellano sailed it in 1542 and it was settled at Sao Jose de Rio Negrinho in 1699 (“Port of Call, Manaus” Middlemiss, N. Oct 2021 in “Features” Online Resource:  https://www.shippingtandy.com/features/manaus/ Accessed: 20/11/2021). “…….the Rio Negro and Solimoes rivers that combine to form the mighty Amazon leading eventually to the sea. The black waters of the Rio Negro form a black diving line with the brown waters of the Solimoes at the junction, and do not mix together for many miles downstream” The situation and environment conjures scenes from the Roland Joffe film The Mission, not a million miles from the exploration and early settlement of the Amazon Basin, and the challenges met on the Rio Negro I imagine?

Manaus Port & Dockside c1910 (Web Photo: Courtesy Durango Duarte Institute)
 

Manaus, the capital of the Amazonas State of Brazil, is situated in the heart of the Brazilian rainforest 900 miles inland from the Atlantic coast in an area colloquially known as the “Amazon Basin”…..There is another more descriptive name for the area….”inferno verde” which translates as “green hell’. There were two million square miles of tropical rainforest in the Amazon Basin in 1900, with an average temperature of 25’c, the Rio Negro and its tributaries feed the Amazon River and, as Manaus is only 302 feet above sea level, navigation from the distant South Atlantic using both rivers, allows travel to Manaus by vessels such as the SS Francis. There are two floating wharves in Manaus’ Port (Paredao and Malcher). The Paredao has four deep sea inside and outside berths, the Malcher floating platform is for river passenger craft and fishing boats. The snows of the high Andes melt and flood the Rio Negro in February and March, receding in June. A record 29.97 metres was recorded at Manaus in 2012, (ebb level of 13.63 metres) a range of almost 16m, as a result all waterside properties in Manaus were built on stilts

SS Francis Ships Journeys 1910 (Booth Line Scan: Courtesy Roger Hull)

Founded in 1866 by Alfred & Charles Booth, “Alfred Booth and Company” was a British trading and shipping enterprise, born in Liverpool, that would eventually trade for more than a century. The company was managed well, and grew to become a significant merchant shipping company, with commercial interests in the United States and South America, specifically, in the time of the SS Francis, Brazil and the Amazon Basin


House Flag Booth & Co Liverpool (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

Liverpool, in Victoria’s reign, was a thriving hub of empire, it was also a centre of industrial development, seeing the birth of the railways of Great Britain, the transition from wooden sailing ships, to Iron, and then Steel hulled steamships, and the immense wealth associated with global trade and commerce. Alfred and Charles Booth worked together at Lamport and Holt Shipping Company in Liverpool, they were cousins of the owner, and co-founder of Lamport & Holts, William Lamport. In 1851 Lamport, transferred shares in the SS Nile, a cargo steamship, to Charles Booth and George Holt. Booth, and Holt’s father, later took minority shares in another of Lamport’s steamships, the Orontes, meaning Charles Booth had shares in the Nile and one in the Orontes. In yet another of those 6 degrees of separation George Holt would, with his brother, Alfred, eventually establish the Blue Funnel Line in Liverpool

Charles Booth (1840-1916) Portrait by George F Watts (Web Photo: Courtesy liverpoolpicturebook.com)

In 1862 Charles Booth joined his eldest brother Alfred, and invested part of the £20,000 his father (also Charles) had bequeathed to each of his 5 children, on his death, in the construction of two steamships, the Augustine and the Jerome. The Booth brothers’ acumen grew the Booth Steamship Company, slowly building up a substantial fleet, to carry merchandise to and fro across the Atlantic. The enterprise was very successful, becoming a huge concern which had interests in many countries, especially the Amazon River trade of Brazil. Charles Booth was also something of a radical in his time, he was a philanthropist and champion of the poor, devoting 17 years to the study, and detailed reporting, of the grievous social conditions suffered by the Victorian working classes in London. Booth, pictured above in an unusual manner for the time (perhaps specifically to emphasize his “difference” from traditional Victorian gentry), shows him in an almost scruffy, casual pose, tie somewhat adrift, aloof, but with piercing, if distant stare

Booth’s Maps of London Poverty, 1889 (Web Photo: Courtesy amazon.co.uk)

Charles Booth funded his own research, and his business interests, throughout those years and tirelessly campaigned for the introduction of old age pensions, laying the foundations of Bevan’s welfare state through the influence of the “Beveridge Report” of 1942 on “social insurance and allied benefits” where the post war “home for Hero’s” was supposed to become reality, and the rhetoric espoused nirvana,  “Now, when the war is abolishing landmarks of every kind, is the opportunity for using experience in a clear field. A revolutionary moment in the world’s history is a time for revolutions, not for patching.” (National Archives: “The Beveridge Report and the foundations of the Welfare State” Online Resource: https:// blog.nationalarchives.gov.uk /beveridge-report-foundations-welfare-state/ Accessed 19/11/2021) Charles would remain Chairman of the Booth Line until 1912. Charles Booth retired and passed the chairmanship to his nephew (Charles Booth 1868 – 1938) in 1912, however, in 1915 he returned to help the company get through the First World War, but sadly died in November of 1916 before the war ended. Charles memorial is on a tablet in St Paul’s Cathedral:

By 1914 the Booth Line fleet had more than 30 ships, 11 were requisitioned for war service, Booth Line lost 9 to enemy action, by 1919 only 18 ships remained. There were no more ships built between 1919 and 1927, a ship was purchased from Germany, perhaps the war office reparations fleet, re-named Dominic. The Booth Line renewed another 7 vessels and bought another second hand ship between 1928 and 1935, but in 1931, having given the Booth Line two decades and more of stirling service, between Liverpool and Brazil, with the demise of the India Rubber trade out of Manaus, the SS Francis was about to change ownership….. Not only was the Francis now 21 years old, but the route she had sailed, and the trade goods she had carried, were now dwindled to almost nothing. The monopoly on the rubber tree, (up until then only grown and harvested in the Amazon Basin and Brasilia’s) was broken when, In 1876, British traveler Henry Wickham stole (or exported, depending on your perspective), 70,000 seeds of “Hevea brasiliensis”, also known as the Para Rubber Tree, and seeded areas of Southeast Asia (including Ceylon (Sri-Lanka) and Malaya (Peninsular Malaysia), then under British Empire control), in order to break the Amazon monopoly and gain control of the product for Britain

1902 Booth Line Poster (Web Photo Courtesy bluestarline.org)

By the 1920’s it was becoming less and less economically viable to trade rubber out of Manaus, “By the early twentieth century the economy of Manaus entered a downward turn, as managed plantations in Malaysia outperformed Brazilian forest extractors. Whereas in 1909 Amazonian rubber constituted 94% of the world supply, by 1918 it had fallen to 10.9%. The Amazonian rubber boom was over,” (“An End to Difference Imagining Amazonian Modernity at the Dawn of the Twentieth Century” 2018 Chernela, J & Periera, E. P28, Para 2. Online Resource: https:// anth.umd.edu/sites/anth.umd.edu/files/2018chernelaboom.pdfAccessed 14/11/2021). The monopoly the Amazon Basin held over rubber extraction had been effectively, and fatally broken, (“Rubber in Brazil: Dominance & Collapse, 1876-1945” Resor, R. R. Online Resource: https:// www.jstor.org /stable/3113637 Accessed 19/11/2021) “For the first few years of this century, Brazil was the major supplier of rubber to the world. However, the Amazonian wild rubber industry was unable to compete, in either price or quality, with the Asian plantation rubber that began to appear on world markets after 1906. Development of a successful plantation culture in the Amazon seemed imperative, but even with public subsidy, plantations remained an economic impossibility. By 1945 the Brazilian rubber industry, overwhelmed by Asian production, had virtually disappeared”

1931 Booth Line Poster (Web Photo: Courtesy liverpoolships.org)

Chernela and Periera write a succinct and telling obituary on the rubber industry of the Amazon basin and the decline of Manaus as an exporter: “…..with no export commodity to replace rubber, the city entered a period of stagnation. The population contracted to a fraction of its former size, dependent for revenue on the export of a few raw forest products with limited markets” and the Booth Line stalwart the SS Francis was duly sold on to Nils Moller of Moller & Company Shipping, a Shanghai based Swedish Company

Nils Moller (Web Photo: Courtesy myheritage.com)

Nils Möller, a Swedish sailing-ship Captain, suffered the death of his first wife Jenny in 1859, the effect this had on him must have been very significant as it prompted him to sail his brigantine, the Osaka, to China looking for commissions (Online Resource: https://www.myheritage.com/site-186892972/moller Accessed 14/11/2021). Captain Moller not only found cargoes there, but must also have fared well, as he ended up in an argument with the Swedish government over the right to fly Swedish flags on his ships. It was apparently forbidden for a Swedish national, living abroad, to fly the Swedish flag, and that seems to have caused Nils to register his fleet of ships in Great Britain, more so, he removed the umlaut (double dot) from over his last name, presumably in anger or frustration, and declared himself a citizen of Shanghai!

Shanghai Bund c1890 (Web Photo: Courtesy pinterest.com)

Nils operated sailing ships from 1882 on the China routes and to Eastern Russia, Japan and the Philippines, sailing out of Shanghai, and he obviously liked the place, settling down and having two more families, one with Alethea Stephenson, and a later one with Hannah Clappison. In 1903 Nils’ two sons took over the business and it was registered as Moller Bros, in 1907 ownership was taken over by Eric Moller and the name changed to Moller & Company. In 1910 the Moller Co bought their first steamship, the same year the SS Francis was launched, Moller Line & Company prospered in Shanghai, opening several subsidiary companies and trading globally, until Moller shipping became the largest fleet of tramp traders in the China Seas, only ceasing to trade in the early 1980’s

Shanghai, French Bund, c1931 when Rosalie Moller was Docking (Web Photo: Courtesy Margaret Blair)
SS Francis Becomes Rosalie Moller (Register Photo: Courtesy National Maritime Archive)

The SS Francis was re-named the Rosalie Moller in the tradition of the Moller line, named after one of the Moller children although, to present date (20/11/2021), I can’t find which line of the family Rosalie Moller belongs to. In 1938 the Rosalie Moller was requisitioned by the Admiralty as a collier, transporting Welsh mined coal to a variety of UK Naval Ports. In 1939 she was running between Yokahama and Shanghai and Shanghai and Hong Kong, with occasional trips to Singapore and Haiphong. In December of 1939 The Rosalie Moller found herself directed from Singapore to Calcutta, a return journey which she would repeat in February, departing Singapore on the 22nd Feb arriving in Calcutta on the 29th  and returning to dock at Shanghai 27th of March.  1940 heralded a change of scenery for the Rosalie Moller, there is no movement noted between April & September of 1940, and it is believed she was given a full overhaul around that time

Rosalie Moller Journeys, Sept 1940 to Apr 1941 (Archive Scan: Courtesy National Maritime Archives)

In September of 1940 the routine for the Rosalie Moller changed, and her route was altered to put her in Alexandria, Egypt (via Singapore, Calcutta and Aden), at Port Said for the 12th of November of 1940. From Alexandria she sailed to Columbo on the 22nd of November arriving on the 22nd of December from there she sailed to Sandheads Calcutta on Christmas Eve, arriving on the 31st December and departing 15th January 1941 when she sailed to Aden arriving on the 30th. From Aden she journeyed to Alexandria arriving at Port said 18th of March, after a quick turn-around the Rosalie Moller was dispatched via Mozambique, South Africa (@ Lourenço Marques, 19th April), to Port Elizabeth, arriving on St George’s day, the 23rd of April. It seems there were some repairs carried out there which completed on the 05th May, not without the mention of “crew trouble”, however nothing more is noted, so what “trouble” that might have been is lost to history….

Calcutta Docks 1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy David N Nelson)

In July 1941 the Rosalie Moller was re-allocated to S.T.N.8, the Admiralty Collier Service, however it would not be until the 19th of August that Rosalie Moller sailed again, this time to Durban, South Africa, arriving it seems on the 25th of August, having been expected on the 21st and there is a note of repairs in Port Elizabeth 18th of August to 22nd of August for some reason? Although she did not know it, it seems time was running out for the Rosalie Moller, her next assignment was to Capetown, 13th of September, but again there is a note of repairs and dates of the 30th August and 11th of September, clearly something wasn’t right with Rosalie Moller, but whatever it may have been, she sailed again from Durban on the 11th of September bound for Aden, arriving on the 28th of September

Mozambique, Lourenço Marques c1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy baysideantiques_02)

Leaving Aden on the first of October for Alexandria, under the command of Australian Captain James Byrne, and laden with 4680 tons of coal, the Rosalie Moller was to use the Suez Canal to reach Alexandria on the 9th October, but fate had other plans for her. A collision of ships elsewhere in the canal meant that Rosalie Moller was unable to transit the Suez Canal and was directed to “Safe Anchorage H, Towala” until the way was cleared

Heinkel HE111 of Kampfgeschwader (KG) 26 (Web Photo: Courtesy Deutsche Bundesarchiv)

On 5th October 1941, German Intelligence reports believed the Queen Mary had been sighted in the area and dispatched 2 Heinkel HE111’s on a search and destroy mission. The Queen Mary had indeed been running from Suez to Trincomalee (Ceylon, modern day Sri-Lanka) under command of her master, Captain Irving. She had completed two trips, carrying troops and supplies, from the 16th September to 23rd September, and again from September 24th to October 01st…….but the Heinkel’s missed her…..

RMS Queen Mary 1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy San Francisco Examiner)

The Heinkel’s sent to find the Queen Mary were from Kampfgeschwader 26 (KG 26) which translates as bomber wing 26, the nickname of the group was “Löwengeschwader” or Lions’ Wing, taken from the insignia, although the translation reads more closely as “Lion’s Shield”. The Germans formed its Luftwaffe long before it was officially revealed in the Spanish Civil War, KG 26 were part of the then, newly formed, “flieger-Division” which included several different types of aircraft (also JU87’s, JU88’s and ME110’s) specific to different roles. The Heinkel HE111’s were bombers (designed by Siegfried and Walter Günter at Heinkel Flugzeugwerke in 1934), KG 26’s HE111’s were primarily anti-shipping aircraft, under the command of Generalleutnant Hans Geisler as of 03rd September of 1939. Originally stationed in Germany as part of 10 Fliegerkorps, KG 26 was transferred to Norway in 1940, following the sinking of two of its own battleships, the Leberecht Maas and the Max Schultz (Operation Wikinger, February 1940), and then from Norway to Sicily in 1941 to support the Afrika Korps. Over the 17/18 January 1941, 12 of KG 26’s He 111s were sent to bomb the Suez Canal, however they did not have the range and 1. Gruppe lost seven machines to fuel starvation. On 31 January KG 26 sank the freighter Sollum and minesweeper Huntley, the unit also took part in missions over Malta, losing its first aircraft on 8 February 1941. Those of you who relish research can dig further into KG 26 in the book “Die Spur des Löwen” or “The trail of the lion” in English, (Alex Steenbeck) although it’s a challenge as the book is in German and there is no plan to release an English translation

Operational Range of Heinkel HE111 1941 (Web Photo: Courtesy Google Maps)

Personally, I have a problem with the HE111’s as a presence in the Gubal straits, where Thistlegorm and the Rosalie Moller were anchored. As KG 26, 1. Gruppe had already seen (losing 7 aircraft in an attempt to bomb the Suez Canal earlier in 1941), the HE111, with a range of only 680 miles, could not have reached the Gubal area without re-fueling for the return or landing locally.  If the Luftwaffe records are accurate, and for the most part at that time of the war they were better than any allied records, the locations of the X korps KG 26 HE111’s in 1941 are tabled below (X Fliegerkorps in “Air Ministry A.H.B. 6 Translation of Enemy Documents” Online Resource: http:// www.ww2.dk/misc/obmed .pdf Accessed: 20/11/2021). The main of the HE111’s were at Comiso, a distance from Comiso airfield (on Sicily) to Gubal of 1,311 miles, one way. The only aircraft that could possibly have patrolled Gubal would have been those of St.G 3, based in Libya, which are anecdotal (in the comments column) to the records, giving no idea which airfield, how many there were, or from what Korps/Gruppe

Whichever Airfield was used, fate played out her hand, and the Heinkel’s sent to find the RMS Queen Mary on the 06th of October found only the merchant vessel SS Thistlegorm, sat at anchor, awaiting a passage through Suez to Alexandria, and so they bombed her to the bottom of the Red sea on October 6th 1941. It is said that the explosion from the Thistlegorm was so massive that it lit up the night sky, exposing another ship lying in Anchorage H, and in a final, bitter irony, the Heinkel’s spotted her and returned on the 8th October to send the Rosalie Moller to the sea bed

The Last Voyage of the Rosalie Moller (Archive Scan: Courtesy National Maritime Archives)

The only realistically achievable patrolling by HE111’s would be from Egyptian or Libyan airfields and, although those were sometimes available, they were constantly changing hands as the Allies overran strategic air-fields in offensive actions, or the Germans re-occupied airfields on counter-attacks. Even the authorities at the time had issues with the information available: “Sunk by Heinkel 111 bombers from No. 2 Squadron 26th Kampfgeschwader based in Crete bombing during night of 7-8/10/1941 at Anchorage “H”, Towala, Gulf of Suez (Durban for Alexandria with coal)(until 6/10 the Towala anchorages had been thought to be beyond the range of German bombers)” reported in many of the dive and steamship details for the SS Francis and Rosalie Moller alike, (“FRANCIS, Disposal Detail” Online Resource: http:// www.clydeships.co.uk/ view.php? ref=1616 Accessed 21/11/2021) I have trolled many archives, (the Air Ministry A.H.B 6 Translation, Henry deZeng’s “Luftwaffe Airfields 1935-45 Greece, Crete and the Dodecanese” (https://www.ww2.dk/Airfields%20-%20Greece%20Crete%20and%20the%20Dodecanese.pdf) and several Luftwaffe interest sites too),  but failed to come up with a plausible location for KG 26 to have attacked the anchorages at Gubal, that doesn’t mean it wasn’t KG 26 HE111’s that took down Thistlegorm & Rosalie Moller, it just means there are more pieces to fit in the puzzle!

X Korps KG 26 Insignia (Web Illustration: Courtesy Wikipedia)

Rosalie Moller was hit once, on her Starbord side between No4 and No3 hold, her cargo was coal, there was a high chance of a secondary explosion from accumulated dust, this was the Gubal area of Egypt and temperatures are always high, but there was no report of a secondary explosion and casualties were, thankfully, as low as could be hoped for in the circumstances, only two of the crew are noted to have died when Rosalie Moller went to the bottom, it is likely they were killed in the initial explosion

Rosalie Moller’s Prop & Rudder (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

I first dived the Rosalie Moller in November of 2008, I had been told about her a couple of times by divers who compared her to the Thistlegorm, but said Rosalie was better than Thistlegorm. At the time I couldn’t take what was being said seriously, Thistlegorm was the most iconic wreck I had dived, the idea that the wreck of a Steamship, carrying a cargo of coal, could be better than Thistlegorm with all her splendor and variety was, to say the least, stretching my imagination….. But I would get to find out, Craig and I had just completed the “three dives in one” on Abu Nuhas, using nitrox to extend our dive times and keep the deco manageable, and Rosalie Moller was next up on the Liveaboard itinerary

No 2 Hold, For’ard Mast Winches (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

The little Red Log was full, the Rosalie Moller was one of the first couple of wreck dives I wrote up in the Green Navy Log and it records: “26/11/08 ROSALIE MOLLER – EGYPT This is the second raid victim of the Thistlegorm saga being spotted by the returning Heinkel HE111 who went back the next day and sank her at anchor we dropped straight down to the prop which is very large with the stern & rudder making a great sight round the port side and up to mid ships to drop into the hold in front of the collapsed engine room. Sadly a diver died when this collapsed early in this year. We swam through into the next hold towards the bridge and then under the collapsed funnel. We went down the bridge deck corridor past the tool room and captains bath. Round over the stern & to the starbord bridge deck corridor and through that to pass over the holds & run to the mast and on to the bows. The bow winches and hatch covers are awesome looking back from the bow light post. Shoals of Glass fish all over the wreck being attacked by Trevally – lots of Fusiliers and other fish about – literally alive with fish. Back to the mast and then over the bridge to start deco an amazing dive a fantastic wreck. Air and 50% Buddy Nick”

Rosalie Moller, Her Bow (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

I have to say, the sight of Rosalie Moller, appearing out of the blue haze as we descended the shot line, was impressive. Whilst Thistlegorm is a very damaged ship, a large area of her stern essentially blown off her hull, and a mass of tangled and rent metalwork where her cargo holds burst and her decking peeled back, Rosalie Moller is a complete ship, she looked as if she could have been sailed away, although her funnel lay over to her Port side the rest of her was just as she sank in October of 1941. As Rosalie is a deeper wreck we needed to see as much as we could without getting into too long a deco requirement. As is always the case, first dive on a new wreck is a tour and look around, we dropped to the prop first, it’s the deepest part of the wreck at 50m or so and, as always a main attraction of any wreck, Rosalie has a wonderful Prop & Rudder set amidships as can be seen in Derek’s photo. The return to her deck and subsequent tour is written up without much mention of the huge shoals of glass-fish we encountered and the multitude of life aboard her. Although Rosalie Moller has not a massive amount of soft or hard corals on her she teems with fish of small to mid-size, almost everywhere you go, but especially around her mast base, I have yet to see much in the way of the larger fish on her though

The Marconi Telegraph House (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

The superstructure is all there, Rosalie has great companionway swims for those diving her initially, and there is plenty of space in her holds to drop down a level to safely explore a little further too. The funnel, brought down by the most idiotic of skippers in 2001, in an attempt to pull the steam whistle away by tying a line to it and towing it off the funnel, now lies over to her Port side and you can look right down the length, it’s a temptation, and an effort not to try to swim through, but that’s another rather reckless thought considering the stiffeners within……  I loved Rosalie Moller more with every minute, it was beginning to be apparent why some considered her better than Thistlegorm, I still wasn’t sure of that at this point, but the complete nature of the wreck, the minimal damage (her No3 hold has the bomb hole which sank her and which would become an entry point in later dives on her) to her throughout, and the opportunities to see all of her as she had been on the day, a time-capsule, immediate and undeniable…..Rosalie Moller had made her impression on me

Looking Back Down The Decks (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

In 2010 I had the chance to dive Rosalie again, this was off the Tornado Fleet Vessel MV Hurricane, another great boat and one who’s captain was excellent, allowing us to choose our dive-sites within the areas he was scheduled to travel, there will be more on that in other wreck dives on here in the future…. But this was Rosalie Moller in April of 2010 and the Green Navy Log tells us “ Gubal Island “ROSALIE MOLLER” I love this wreck –tragically the stern mast is now down but still intact as the day she was hit by Heinkel HE 1111’s down the shot and along the starboard rails to the bow to 42m & then back up to the bow winches & into the forward hold along and between holds to come out on the deck just in front of the funnel across the bridge & along the starboard companionway & into the galley past the stove and out @ centre deck facing the stern passing a huge Lion Fish & tiny Peppered Moray. Dropping into the stern hold to cross and come out of the blast damaged deck & raise up onto the main deck again across the downed mast by the two huge winches & on up to deco for 29 mins Viz 10-15m buddy Craig Air In 200 Out 100” …….

Engine Room Vent (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

I think by this time that if anyone had asked me which was my favourite Red Sea wreck it would be Rosalie Moller, the sheer exuberance of diving her, her near pristine condition, and the fact fewer divers dived Rosalie at that time would have been enough to swing it for me. I hated the fact that inconsiderate, no, moronic dive skippers were attaching their craft to such points as masts and funnels, rather than far stronger points such as mooring bollards. I hated the fact that after a mere 2 years the stern mast had been brought down, I hated the fact that someone was moron enough to try to drag a steam whistle off a funnel using a boat to try to wrench it away…….All these things, and far more, are really things that diving as an industry needs to address…… If any dive boat skipper was to do such things in the Great Lakes of Canada and the USA they would be prosecuted, small wonder there are still wooden wrecks with telegraphs and bells still in place in those lakes……what future is there for wreck diving in the Red Sea…….

Looking Down Rosalie Moller’s Funnel….Temptation! (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

My next dives on Rosalie Moller would be in 2013 and another amazing skipper, this time Blue O2 off “Melody” another excellent and modern Liveaboard with everything you could expect and great food too, no chance of coming back slimmer off this trip! But I digress… the Green Book says: “30/07/13 NIGHT DIVE – ROSALIE MOLLER- RED SEA! This is the first time I know that anyone has done a night dive on Rosie!! What a privilege it is! Down a shot to the No 4 hold at the stern then round the stern deck house along the starboard rail the full length of the ship with all the deck rails festooned with brittle star anemones & fan corals all out and blazing with colour the whole way. Past the holds to the Bridge deck accommodation & the lifeboat davits, past the winches & on to the bow over the fallen mast area & bomb damage to the bow deck house (chain locker) & over those to the bow itself then back to the main for’ard mast where the shot was for ascent. Great view of the bow as we ascended to deco & a whole sky of stars as we surfaced MAGICAL DIVE Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig”   It should be clear by now that Rosalie Moller was without doubt my favourite dive, no two ways about that, she had just had an effect that still lasts to this day, if I could only dive one wreck ever again then, to this day, it would be Rosalie Moller. I should add that surfacing to a completely cloudless and beautifully moonlit sky, with the heavens lit across the whole horizon with tiny twinkling stars was like nothing on Earth….the feeling of being in the sea, but beneath the heavens on a tiny rock in one of, who knows how many Universes, was just……..well……..indescribable really, I truly lack sufficiently eloquent or profound enough words

Torchlight on Rosalie Moller (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

The Captain of Melody asked if we would like to stay for a second dive the next morning or depart first thing, I don’t think a soul on board wanted to leave Rosalie Moller so the next morning, bright and early, we were back down to say farewell……. “ROSALIE MOLLER – RED SEA- A daytime return to the stern and first off the shot at No4 hold over the steering room & down the port side to go through the prop & rudder a run back over the starboard side to look and dive through the small galley (stove or bench) and then into the hatch to access the lower deck for a run from Port to No3 hold & across the decks to exit the bomb damage @ No ¾ hold. Through the blast hole & over the mast & deck to pick up the shot & deco out Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig” This was one of those “Even better than that” Fast Show days as we managed to convince the captain to stay on Gubal until after lunch and allow us a third dive on Rosalie……could life get any better…… “31/07/13 Rosalie Moller – Red Sea Second day dive this time the bow area – down the bow shot to look at the Hawsed Port anchor then through the forecastle chain lockers & winch gear to drop down into No1 hold & pass through to No2 hold then up into the Bridge accommodation area, through the galley & workshop & across to the store & bunk rooms then out at the bridge front to do the funnel & the bridge roof before heading down the centre line over the midships & stern to deco on the stern shot – an excellent dive!! Viz 10m Air In 200 Out 100 Buddy Craig”

Rosalie Moller’s For’ard Mast (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

There were several more dives on Rosalie taking similar routes in 2015 “02/08/15 Rosalie Moller Red Sea an early start on Rosalie my favourite Red Sea dive down to the stern & a drop over to see the prop – three of four blades intact – 1 missing. We swam gently up the starboard side to the bomb damage & used it to enter the stern holds & swim round the tween decks to exit by the crew & officers bridge accomm block – down the gangway & out to the funnel & if I had no side-mount I swear I could do the funnel end to end! Swam in and round the bridge & forward hold for a while up & down the deck to swim the opposite (port) gangway & across the deck to the forward hold then on & up the bridge to the shot line & up to 6m for 30 minutes of deco which we incurred as we spent a fair part of the dive @ 35m plus! Deco was made easy when we were joined by 2 or 3 Bat Fish & then tiny jellies which ended up as a huge shoal passing us! Air In 220 Out 75 Viz 20m Buddy Craig”

Rosalie Moller as she sat in 2008 (Web Illustration: Courtesy Rico Oldfield)

No one quite shows a wreck like Rico Oldfield, of all the illustrators I have seen in 30 plus years of diving Rico is the one who captures a wreck as she sits, as she looks and feels to a diver. The routes I have taken on Rosalie could be traced on Rico’s stunning representation of Rosalie, but why spoil a great work with a bunch of squiggles? I will leave the reader, should they wish, to trace the routes I have described on the marvelous and most iconic of Red Sea wrecks. I have at last come clean and, as you have just read, described Rosalie Moller as “my favourite Red Sea wreck”, I apologise to all the other wrecks in the Red Sea, as most of those are pretty magnificent too, but Rosalie has that “something” which is hard to describe but stands her out from all others. I suppose it is easier to look at in this way, if you sign up for a Red Sea wreck diving Liveaboard you are pretty excited and the anticipation is high enough, but if the skipper hasn’t got Gubal Island on the itinerary you feel let down, it’s not that you won’t enjoy the dives, it’s not that you won’t have a great time, it’s just there will be “something” missing…..the Cherry on the top…..that’s what Rosalie Moller is…….the Cherry on the top of the Red Sea wrecks   

The Masters of SS Francis and the Rosalie Moller (Photo: Courtesy National Maritime Archive)

My last dive on Rosalie was taken on the afternoon of the 02nd August of 2015 and the Green navy Log records: “02/08/15 ROSALIE MOLLER Gubal Island Red Sea this tour began at the stern but going for’ard we swam the starboard side to the bow & then swam in to the hawsed anchor & over onto the bow deck where we ran the chain lines & dropped between decks in the for’ard hold – a swim round that then to the bridge & in & out over the galley & through to the mess bathroom & down & out to the funnel  we spent time over & round the funnel & then over the decks to swim back through the gangway on the starboard mess deck – into & out the bridge & round the mast to end at the stern line & on up to deco – a wonderful dive captured on go-pro  – let’s see if it comes out!! Air In 220 Out 100 Buddy Craig”

Yours Truly, Rosalie Moller 2010 (Photo: Courtesy Derek Aughton)

Well…..shall we see if the video came out ok?

As ever this piece is only possible with the help of those who contribute most to it and I am indebted to Derek Aughton & Margaret Blair for their photos, to Craig Toplis for his patience, to Rico Oldfield for his illustration and to Roger Hull and the National Archives for their assistance with data & records

Filed Under: The Wrecks

The Sound of Mull Shipwrecks

December 22, 2021 by Colin Jones

SS Breda

SS Breda (Web Photo: Courtesy scottishshipwrecks.com)

The Breda was a typical steamship of her time and named after a city in the Nederlands (Holland) in the North Brabant province of southern Holland, she had her keel laid on 16 December 1919 at the Nieuwe Waterweg Scheepsbouwmaatschappij (“New Waterway Shipbuilding Company”) yard at Schiedam in Rotterdam. Breda was constructed for the Koninklijke Nederlandsche Stoomboot Maatschappij (“Royal Netherlands Steamship Company”) following completion, she was launched on the 2nd of July 1921, her fit-out was completed 10th  December 1921. The Koninklijke Nederlandse Stoomboot-Maatschappij (KNSM) which translates, in English, to The Royal Netherlands Steamship Company, was based in Amsterdam from 1856 to 1981. It was once considered the largest company in Amsterdam, and was one of the top five shipping lines in Holland. The company operated mid-sized freighters similar to the Breda, with most having additional passenger accommodation. KNSM at its peak in 1939 and at the outbreak of World War II, had 79 vessels, 48 of which were lost during World War II, many, like the Breda, were requisitioned for service with the Allied forces as transports

Dutch Steamboat Company Poster c1925 (Web Photo: Courtesy geheugen.delpher.nl)

The Nieuwe Waterweg, (New Waterway in English) was excavated out of sand dunes at Gravenzande in 1872 and ran for 4.3 Km to provide the last part of Rotterdam’s connection with the sea. In 1877 the passage was significantly widened and deepened, and a new waterway reached the end of the dam that it shares with the Calandkanaal, where the Maasmond starts, making it now around 7 km in length. Today it is better known as the Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland)

View of Scheepsbouw Mij. “Nieuwe Waterweg”, c1935 (Web Photo: Courtesy alblasserdam.net)

The Netherlands have been using Rotterdam for hundreds of years to build ships for commerce, and (out of the Dutch Admiralty Yard on the Haringvliet & Delfshaven), for military use too. The yards were initially financed by well-known Dutch families such as the Mees and Hoboken’s and, up to the end of the First World War, very successful on behalf of their investors too. In 1918, just after the Breda’s completion, the Dutch shipyard employed around 4700 in shipbuilding and its associated activities. For those of you who love the technical detail

SS Breda Data Set (Table Courtesy: Wikipedia (Modified))
Metrovick Steam Turbine Advert in Brassey’s Naval and Shipping Annual 1923

The Breda was powered by two steam turbine engines, a high and a low pressure engine, by Metropolitan-Vickers, founded in the UK in 1899 as British Westinghouse. In 1917 Metrovick was formed to address problems with the degree of separation needed to isolate UK concerns over the USA involvement in British Westinghouse. The need came about in order to avoid issues surrounding bidding and awards of government contracts. British Westinghouse, up to that point, was a subsidiary of the Pittsburgh, USA based “Westinghouse Electric and Manufacturing Company”. Following the purchase of equipment and titles British Westinghouse became a subsidiary of Metropolitan-Vickers in 1919. The Metrovick steam turbines, state of the propulsion art in the day, gave Breda a top speed of 15 knots (28 km/h; 17 mph). She had five cargo holds, and could also accommodate up to 16 passengers

Westinghouse Steam Turbines, High & Low Pressure, from SS Maui 1917 (Web Photo: Courtesy Pacific Marine Review Jan 1917)

Whilst it was Charles Parsons who invented the modern steam turbine in 1894, the basic principal was harnessed in a design so ancient as to have been described in Roman times by a renowned experimenter & writer called Hero, (c10 AD to c70 AD) it was named “Aeolipile” and  was just 2 x 90’vent pipes, mounted opposite each other on a copper sphere, mounted on a rotating shaft through its centre which, when the reservoir below is filled half full of water, and heated over a fire until the water boiled, forced steam out of each vent, making the sphere spin on its shaft

Hero’s Aeolipile from his writing  “Pneumatica” (Web Illustration: Courtesy Wikipedia)

Parsons design, a central shaft with small vanes along its length (arranged around the shaft radially, when allowed to pressurize with steam along its length, expended its energy driving the shaft round),  had revolutionized steamship speed in the 1900’s, from the first example, “Turbinia” unveiled at the Spithead review in 1897, the Steam Turbine had practically consigned compound steam piston engines to obsolescence. Designed & built by Charles Parsons in 1894, Turbinia embarrassed all other ships at Spithead when Parson’s showed her, completely unannounced, and evaded the review security boat by completely outpacing it, in front of the whole admiralty, and Edward VII, the Prince of Wales. Turbinia’s stellar performance on that day ensured the next generation of steamships, including the Breda, would nearly all be turbine powered

Parson’s 1894 Steam Turbine Engine for Turbinia (Web Photo: Courtesy Graces guide)
Sectional Drawing of a Steam Turbine Similar to Breda’s (Web Photo: Courtesy Pacific Marine Review)
SS Breda (Web Photo: Courtesy scottishshipwrecks.com)

There is a little I can find on the SS Breda between the wars (although it doesn’t help that I don’t speak Dutch), she missed the First World War, which finished in 1918, however, as she was built for Koninklijke Nederlandsche, it can be assumed that a fair proportion of her employment would have been the transportation of raw materials for the Iron & Steel industry to and from Ijmuiden on the Dutch North Sea coast. The journeys I can find some detail on, and could probably dig a little deeper into have the Breda on a regular South America to Liverpool route

1924 the initial Port of departure for SS Breda being Corral, in Southern Chile, would probably mean a cargo of nitrates, the major export of Southern Chile at the time according to Robert Lane (Division of US Regional Information) ,  & Spencer Green (US Trade Commissioner to the West Coast) in their 1928 publication on Pacific & South American trade (Greene, S. B & Lane, R. M “Trade of the Pacific Coast States with the West Coast of South America” Trade Information Bulletin 525 P12 1928 Online Resource. Accessed 08/11/2021)

Port of Corral, Chile, Major Exports 1925 (Web Scan: Courtesy books.google.co.uk)

It can, perhaps, again be assumed that the export of Iron & Steel pipework from the Nederlands to Chile and South America also makes sense, although without cargo manifests the definitive answer cannot at this point be given. Trade is always a two way street, no ship wishes to undertake a voyage “in ballast” unless they really “must”, so an assumption of return cargoes of Lumber, Bananas (Cristobel Colon, Panama) and Nitrates seems reasonable. By 1937 Chile has an increased export portfolio and increasing output too, the January, May and September trips of the Breda could have had any of a dozen or more cargoes, however it is interesting to see Copper (a material commonly used in the manufacture of pipes) is one of the “majors” noted in the 1940 Commerce Report (“The Port of Valparaiso, Foreign & Coastwise Trade of Chile Feb 10, 1940 P145 Online Resource: www.google.co.uk / books / edition / Commerce _Reports Accessed 08/11/2021)

The Port of Valparaiso, Feb 10th, 1940 (Web Scan: Courtesy Google Books)
Valparaiso, Chile, c1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy E Bay)

Koninklijke Nederlandsche (now part of the modern day Tata group) begins its history on September 20th, 1918, when “Koninklijke Nederlandsche Hoogovens” was founded in The Hague, Holland. It was created to “……enable Dutch industry to become less dependent on imports” (Tata Steel Editorial “History of Koninklijke Nederlansche Hoogovens” Online Resource: https:// www.tatasteeleurope.com/sites/default/files/History_ KH.pdf  Accessed 02/11/2021). It made sense to establish an Iron & Steel company in Holland, it is very central in wider European terms, has excellent coastal and inland canal access, and therefore sits well for import and export of raw materials and final product. “By the mid 1930’s, Hoogovens had become the largest exporter of pig iron in the world. In 1936, they began producing cast-iron pipes. Steel production began in 1939, using open-hearth furnaces. In 1941, Hoogovens acquired Van Leer’s Walsbedrijven, a rolling mill that was renamed Walserij Oost (East Rolling Mill)”. So, it again makes sense that a ship with the capacity of the SS Breda, would be employed by her owners in a manner befitting their business needs, the import of raw materials for Iron & steel manufacture and the export of finished product from that industry

Dutch West Indies, Port of Curacao c1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy shipsnostalgia.com)

It is equally possible the Breda carried cement products “….In 1930 the cement factory, Cemij, a subsidiary enterprise, was formed in collaboration with ENCI, to produce blast furnace sealants. By this means a competitive war between the Dutch cement producers Hoogovens and ENCI was prevented, and independence from foreign competition achieved. Compared with pig iron turnover, sales of by-products were stable, and were sufficient to cover Hoogovens’s fixed expenses.” (Editorial in “International Directory of Company Histories, Koninklijke Nederlandsche Hoogovens En Staalfabrieken NV” Online Resource: https://www.encyclopedia.com/books/politics-and-business-magazines/koninklijke-nederlandsche-hoogovens-en-staalfabrieken-nv Accessed 02/11/2021)

New Waterway Shipbuilding Company c1921 (Web Photo: Courtesy shipsnostalgia.com rdm-archief-nl)

By 1920, due to the increased requirement for shipping materials and people, for re-construction projects after the devastating effects the war had seen, the number of employees in shipping had almost doubled to around 7500 people, that meant almost 40 percent of all Dutch shipbuilding production came from Rotterdam. That situation had peaked and following 1920 there was far less demand on Dutch shipping and the industry needed to adapt, in 1925 RDM bought the shares of Nieuwe Waterweg in Schiedam and brokered a merger between the largest shipyards at Wilton and Fijenoord. Information taken from Allard Schellen’s Piece ( Allard, S: “The end of the great shipbuilding industry in the region” vergetenverhalen.nl 23/09/2015 Online Resource: Accessed 03/11/2021) tells us the measure was less successful than anticipated, the 1929 crash on Wall Street exacerbated the problem, less was being imported by the USA as its economy tanked. Wilton-Fijenoord laid off 8,000 employees in 1929, and many smaller companies simply went to administration, RDM did survive, but not unscathed. As Europe plunged towards a second World War in the late 1930’s Germany had its eyes on the shipyards of Rotterdam, when war finally broke out in 1939 and Germany invaded Holland it took over  the yards and port of Rotterdam, and production was begun under the Nazi regime to manufacture for the Kriegsmarine

The Breda c1930 (Web photo: Courtesy alchetron.com)

When Germany eventually invaded the Netherlands in May 1940 the Breda’s Captain, Johannis Fooy, fearing capture and the loss of his ship to the Germans,rather than doing nothing and letting the Breda fall into the hands of the Nazis, slipped Breda out of Antwerp and took her to Britain. On arrival in Newcastle the Breda was requisitioned for the war effort and given to the P&O Line to manage, she was also armed, although only with a single 4.7-inch (120 mm) gun. Fate was not going to be kind to the plucky steamship despite her gutsy escape from the German’s they were not going to let her escape quite so easily it would seem, fate bringing her, on 23 December 1940, to anchor off Oban, one of a convoy of 100 ships sitting in the Firth of Lorn, eventually bound for Bombay

Heinkel He 111 H of 4./KG 26 August 1940 in Stavanger-Sola. From the left Schops, Mathias Holler BF, – , Observer Fw Lange, pilot Lt. Herbert Kuntz (Web Photo: Courtesy falkeeins.blogspot.com)

The Breda was built to carry optimal quantities of cargo along with her potential 16 passengers, “She had 3 decks, a cruiser stern and a flat bottom.  The bridge lay between the second and third of the Breda’s five holds, and contained the radio and navigation rooms, officer’s accommodation and cabins for 16 passengers.  Aft of hold 3 lay the engine room whose four boilers were originally coal fired, but were converted to oil in 1938.  These produced steam for two turbines with double reduction gearing to a single screw.  Her service speed was 11.8 knots, and fuel consumption ran at 36 tons of oil per day.  The stern housed accommodation for the 37 crew.  On the main deck is the steering gear, with the emergency steering position on the deck above.  This had originally been open to the elements, but a platform was erected above this position to carry the gun which was fitted during the war” (J Banks Editorial: “The J Banks cargo of SS Breda” On Line Resource at https:// www.jbanks.co.uk/about-us/history/the-j-banks-cargo-of-ss-breda Accessed: 03/11/2021)

SS Sagaland GA Drwg “Similar” 4 Hold Steamer (Web Photo: Courtesy Royal Museum Greenwich)

On Christmas Eve 1940, the Breda was bombed during a German air raid on Oban roads, while waiting to join a convoy from London to Mombasa and Bombay.  The aircraft were Heinkel’s He 111 bombers based at Stavanger, Norway, which flew across the bay, and straddled the Breda with four 250-kilogram (550 lb) bombs. Although not directly hit, the pressure of the explosions ruptured a water inlet pipe, and the engine room flooded,  eventually depriving the Breda of all power. Luckily Captain Fooy managed, just, to beach Breda on the limits of shallow water in Ardmucknish Bay. The next day, only part of Breda’s cargo had been offloaded when a storm swept in and moved her into deeper water where she now sits with her stern at around 26 metres and her bow near 15m at 56°28′32″N 5°25′04″W

loading an SC 1800 Kg Bomb Under a Heinkel HE111 (Web Photo: Courtesy falkeeins.blogspot.com)

Breda had been loaded with a varied, general cargo, a comprehensive listing can be found, with a little digging, on the J Banks & Co Ltd (originally of Willenhall, Manchester, but now based in Featherstone, Staffordshire) web-site, I am not sure some of this content has not been “borrowed” from one of the dive centre sites so I quote it here, on that basis: (Editorial “The J Banks Cargo of SS Breda” https://www.jbanks.co.uk/about-us/history/the-j-banks-cargo-of-ss-breda/ On Line Resource: Accessed 03/11/2021) “At the time of her sinking, the Breda was carrying a very mixed cargo, consisting of 3000 tons of cement, (now set solid), 175 tons of tobacco and cigarettes, (very soggy and hard to smoke), 3 Hawker and 30 de Havilland Tiger Moth biplanes.  Aircraft engines, propellers, windscreens, instruments and various other parts have been recovered.  The aircraft, which are now hard to recognise, are stored in holds one, two and three. Sandals with leather uppers and rubber soles, medical supplies, including kaoline in what may best be described as square-shaped Mk 1 waisted Coca Cola bottles, batteries, wide strips of leather, tyres, telephone pole insulators, lengths of solder, black boot polish and innumerable other items have been recovered from hold No1. On the deck alongside hold 2 lies an upside down 4×4 vehicle with the tyres still fully-inflated.  Another similar vehicle has fallen from the deck to the bottom of hold 2, which also contains aircraft and beer bottles. Hold 3 contains aircraft, tin lids, tyres, barrels containing stoneware bottles of Stephens blue ink, (how many divers can claim to have dived in in?), dental supplies, including what appears to be drinks coasters, but which are actually material for taking dental impressions, and the pink material for making gums of false teeth.  Regretfully, all efforts have so far failed to find the material for making gold fillings. Hold 4 contains truck spares, gas masks, spectacle lenses, fire hoses, the spare propeller, (cast iron), trolley compressors with brass, double-acting cylinders (for inflating tyres), brass fire extinguishers, aircraft batteries, and between holds 4 and 5, the 3000 tons of cement. Square porthole glasses of two different diameters, individually separated by pages of a 1940 Dutch newspaper were also recovered as recently as 1989.  The newspaper was still legible, and included the pages giving the BBC radio programmes.  Brass oil lamps with gimballed brackets cast in the shape of dolphins were also recovered at the same time. Apart from more of the cement, hold 5 contains bicycles, electrical equipment including switches, fuses and GEC ceiling fans, along with bales of hay for feeding the 10 horses, reputedly belonging to the Aga Khan, which was also part of the cargo.” It is a matter of record that the war office tried, wherever possible, to spread cargo’s throughout convoys to ensure as many ships that survived the journeys through the U Boat Wolfpacks, carried as much variety as practical for the supply of those in need, a common sense approach driven out of a necessity to supply under extremes of circumstance and borne out by the hugely varied Breda cargo

Photo-recon Picture of German aircraft on Sola airfield, Stavanger (Web Photo: Courtesy falkeeins.blogspot.com)

For those of you who rest better knowing an animal’s fate, rather than having it left to the imagination, there is a record of the animals of the Breda’s cargo, including the Aga Khan’s horses, (wartime reparations paid in barter by any other name) the J Banks piece details: “……When the Breda was beached, the horses were either released to swim ashore, or the horse boxes drifted off with the horses still inside.  One of these boxes came ashore near Ledalo Spit, with a horse still inside and a very distraught dog standing on top of the box.  They were rescued by Mrs Mary Mac Niven, wife of the caretaker at Dunstaffnage Castle.  Not all of the horses survived, but at least one was kept in the old smiddy adjacent to the cemetery at the southern edge of the village of Benderloch. The last survivor of the horses died in the Oban area in 1961. Sometime after sinking, the body of a monkey was found in the grounds of Letterwalton House, a few miles north of Benderloch.  Around its neck was a collar bearing the inscription “SS Breda””. I believe that the horse Mary Mac Niven saved was called “Bradshaws” and was one of the Aga Khan’s 10 racehorses on board the Breda when it sank. Mary was honoured by the Royal Humane Society for her efforts in saving the horse, which she rowed out to, as it was still tethered in its container afloat in the bay. Now the details regarding the monkey are often referred to as “local legend” which means either the truth of the matter has been lost locally over time, or that the story is seen as rather fanciful, either way it is not for the likes of me to judge!

HE111 1HKN of 5./KG 26 in “Nachttarnung” finish or “Night Blitz” in English (Web Photo: Courtesy falkeeins.blogspot.com)  

The sinking of the Breda was another of those rather unfortunate events, the German Heinkel HE111 bombers had overshot their intended industrial targets and headed for the shipping routes around the West of Scotland as secondary targets of opportunity, although the bombing did not result in a direct hit, Breda suffered pressure wave damage, through her hull, in the form of ruptured plating and a fractured cooling water inlet pipe, taking in water. Breda still managed, under her own power, to make it to the east shore of Ardmucknish Bay, Captain Fooy, exhibiting remarkable cool in the circumstances, drove her into a shallow submerged shelf which extends 600 yards out to sea at a depth of only 6 metres.  Any further out from land and the bottom slopes quickly to over 30 metres.  Breda managed to sit on this shelf long enough for some cargo to be removed, however in another unfortunate event, a storm reached across the Bay and, just when the Breda had looked safe and her cargo recoverable, fate and the storm forces took her out and deeper under the waters of Ardmucknish bay

ADUS Side-scan Sonar enhancement of the Breda (Web Photo: Courtesy ADUS)

For some time after, until the 1960’s in fact, her goalpost foremasts were visible above the surface at low tide, but in 1961 the Royal Navy swept the Breda with towed wires and removed the goalposts along with the bridge, funnel, and forepeak to give a swept clearance of 28ft, the reports from HMS Shackleton (“Breda: Ardmucknish Bay, Firth Of Lorn” Online Resource https://canmore.org.uk/site/102573/breda-ardmucknish-bay-firth-of-lorn Accessed 05/11/2021) telling us: “The site was wire swept clear at 5.4 metres but fouled sweep at 6.1 metres. The least depth by echosounder was 8.22 metres. To the seabed is 22.8 metres. There is no scour. One sweeping sinker distinctly fouled a large piece of wreckage at 6.1 metres”, (HMS SHACKLETON, 25 July 1960) and “The site was again swept and it cleared at 8.22 metres, but fouled at 8.5 metres. The site was wire sweep to a least echosounder depth of 9.1 metres. To the seabed is 21.9 metres. The wreck twice cleared at 8.22, but three firm fouls were obtained at 8.5 metres. These were examined by divers. The highest point appears to be remains of after superstructure. A mast was sighted lying athwartships on the well deck”.(HMS SHACKLETON, 31 July 1961)

SS Breda Stern Port-Side & Debris Field (ADUS Scan: Courtesy Norbit SAMS Facebook Page)

The superstructure remnants are now lying in the mud off the port side of the ship, you can see the stern goalposts lying back in the superb ADUS scan, from the Scottish Association for Marine Science Facebook page, from the Norbit iWMBS multi-beam sonar system above (Online Resource: https:// www.facebook.com/ SAMS. Marine/ photos/ pcb. 3653148651371407/3653146174704988 Accessed: 05/11/2021). The gun mounted on the platform structure at the stern was presumably also removed by HMS Shackleton’s divers at that time. It was not until 1966 that the Breda was rediscovered by divers from Edinburgh BSAC, and despite her bridge, derricks and funnel having been lost from the wire dragging of the Navy, otherwise she looked pretty much undamaged. Of course finding a “new” wreck sometimes brings its own issues and, from the J Banks piece: “Blasting by Oban Divers removed the bronze propeller in 1968 and further blasting has since removed most of the remaining superstructure, improving access to the lower decks and engine room.  The copper degaussing cable, for protection against magnetic mines, was also recovered by Oban Divers, and the insulation burned off on Eilean Mor”. I cannot confirm further blasting occurred on the decks, there is no reference other than the J Banks piece that I can find, but as BSAC did, in the early years, have an (albeit short lived), “underwater explosives” course, it is a very real possibility

SS Breda Black & White Shot (Web Photo: Courtesy Mark Kirkland Flickr)

The legacy of the Breda is not confined to the wreck itself, items of the cargo have been recovered, there are many noted, including Windshields from one of the de Havilland Tiger Moth biplanes, banknote paper destined for the Bank of India for 10 Rupee banknotes and, bottles, tiles, pages from an atlas, still coloured, a huge variety, the link to J Banks & Company, Brass “Button Sticks”, and yes, I am old enough (Just) to have used one of these to lift the buttons on No2 Dress Uniform & polish them, something I think may now be unique to the military, and was still the practice until recently, if a former Life-Guards colleague & friend is correct!

J Banks & Co Button Stick (Web Photo: Courtesy J Banks & Co)

The J Banks editorial details how the button sticks are used far better than I could: “…..In 1992 a diver found a wooden crate, we believe in hold No 1.  Whilst the timber crate was rotting away, the diver originally thought the box contained Gold, but in fact was Brass Button Sticks manufactured by J Banks. The Brass Button Sticks were used to protect the fabric of a uniform or coat whilst cleaning buttons. The stick would be placed behind a button, the polishing cloth could make contact with the button and the stick would prevent the fabric from being damaged.  The sticks were stamped with J Banks & Co Ltd Willenhall and the diver traced them back to us and returned a handful that we still have today on display.” (Editorial “The J Banks Cargo of SS Breda” Online resource: https://www.jbanks.co.uk/about-us/history/the-j-banks-cargo-of-ss-breda/ Accessed 04/11/2021). I have half a mind to drop in to take a look at the button sticks and see if J Banks & Co might part with one, their Featherstone base is not far from me (in Uttoxeter) and it would be a great souvenir of my past on two levels!

10 Rupee Banknote Paper Recovered from SS Breda (Web Photo: Courtesy scottishshipwrecks.com )
Fully Printed Example of an Indian 10 Rupee Banknote (Web Photo: Courtesy Twitter IndiaHistorypic )

The 10 Rupee unprinted banknote shown above bears a copy of the watermark “Reserve Bank of India – 10 Rupees” and a profile picture  of the head of George VI. The manufacturer, Portals, owned by the Bank of England, manufactured special paper for the printing of the Indian banknotes, watermarked with the portrait of King George VI. The transportation of unprinted banknote paper was an attempt to deter theft, the printing would be carried out on safe arrival at destination. The wooden boxes carrying the banknote paper had degraded during their 30 years or so immersion in Ardmucknish Bay before their recovery sometime in the 1970’s and the edges of the uncut sheets were a little ragged, the sheet in the New Zealand auction house catalogue above is in remarkable condition when all is considered

SS Breda Docked (Web Photo: Courtesy Ardchatten Parish Archive)

I dived the Breda in August of 2004, in what I described at the time to Brad, one of my dive buddies, as “marginal” conditions, the Puffin Divers location was being swept through by high winds and very choppy seas, it was going to be a lucky window to get on Breda and dive her……but we went for it, we were lucky too and the little Green Navy log records: “…29/08/04 BREDA Ardmucknish Bay Oban Descent down shot line in very green but clear water down to the starboard side & probably no 3 hold – broken up with swim throughs & cement bags forward & to the sides. Plenty of deck & machinery evident & two sets of broken hold ladders. Swim the line back to the shot & over the side to 22m at the sea bed towards the stern – several large Pollack & masses of tube anemones great dive – plenty left to do Air In 230 Out 180 (Eanx 32) Buddy Sam”

SS Breda Black & White Shot (Web Photo: Courtesy Mark Kirkland Flickr)

I had no means of recording the dive other than my ramblings in the log, I couldn’t afford the exotics of an underwater camera set-up and these were the days way before I could even imagine a Go-Pro, but Mark Kirkland’s superb Black & White shots from a dive on her perfectly match the feel of our dive, which I remember very well as the viz was not brilliant, down to a couple of meters as a result of the weather over the days we were there, but I tied off my run reel, as matter of course on a new and un-dived (to me) wreck, and we started up along her from the stern around the mid-ships. Breda was an eerie wreck in the viz, calm and Green, the Green you get in Stoney Cove when the Algae is in bloom, but darker as a result of the higher Tannin content from wash-off & percolation locally. The atmospheric nature of the dive, and the occasional tying off of the line, as we made our way forward was a slower process and meant not quite so much exploration of the Breda, she is also a mass of twisted metal due to the wire sweeps the Navy completed, but her decks and fittings are still clear and recognizable and our run along her was great fun, trying to figure out exactly where we were on her length, and peering into the hold spaces which we did not enter in the circumstances. Breda is another of those wrecks I’d love to go back and do again, there is plenty to explore in and around her 122m hull

I am, as always, indebted to the photos & scans contributing to the additional detail in this piece, notably, Norbit and ADUS for the use of their stunning side-scans & sonar work and particularly to Mark Kirkland and Steve Jones for their amazing Black and White shots of Breda

Filed Under: The Wrecks

His Majesty’s Minesweepers

December 7, 2021 by Colin Jones

HMT Elk

His Majesty’s Trawler Elk (Photograph Reproduced Courtesy of Lincs Inspire Libraries)

The Elk was originally designed as a Steam Trawler, by Cook, Welton & Gemmell, of Beverley in Yorkshire, she was laid down in 1902 for the Thomas E. Fisher & Henry Morris Co., Ltd and was destined to spend her life fishing the prolific Cod grounds off Iceland for her new owners. There was no other expectation of her than she be fit for purpose and commercially effective, her lines had been honed over generations of sailing trawlers that had gone before her. Elk would be a side trawl, meaning her nets would be operated Port or Starboard, rather than dragged from her stern, allowing her catch to be landed and processed on the broader and longer forward deck, without using complicated arrangements to move the haul for’ard in heavy seas for processing and stowage. Icelandic trawling required sometimes 6 or 8 week long fishing trips from her home port of Grimsby, to get the Elk to the Cod grounds off Isafjordour or Seyoisfjordour and back, and for that, her Amos & Smith 3 cylinder 62 Hp steam engine would drive her well at around 9 knots until she cast her trawls

Iceland, the main Cod Grounds 1902 were East & West Coasts (Web Illustration: Courtesy commodity.com)

Why would such tiny vessels make such an arduous journey, after all it is 1229 miles, one way, to the West Coast of Iceland, at 9 knots that’s a 6 day trip before any fishing even starts! SigfÚs JÓnsson tells us in his piece (“The Icelandic fisheries in the pre-mechanization Era, C. 1800–1905: Spatial and economic implications of growth” Online Resource:    https:// www.tandfonline.com/doi/ pdf/ 10.1080/ 03585522. 1983. 10408006 Accessed 26/11/2021) “….The first steam trawlers were built in Britain and France around 1880. These proved an immediate success as the fishing operation became much less subject to wind and tide. The speed and flexibility of vessels increased drastically, catches grew proportionally, landings became more dependable and many new sea areas became intensively fished” so, from even an Icelandic perspective, the fishing of Cod from as far away as England and Wales made economic sense, even if it did come as a high risk activity. What is more, the boats designed to travel the North Sea and Arctic Oceans were very well built……and they needed to be!

Cook, Welton & Gemmell Shipyard, Grovehill, Beverley (Web Photo: Courtesy Hull Daily Mail, Slight Digital Repair)

The Elk had been made for the relatively new company of Thomas E. Fisher & Henry Morris Co Ltd, in the Grovehill Shipyard on the River Hull in Beverley. The firm of Cook, Welton & Gemmell was founded in 1883 on South Bridge Road, on the Humber bank in Hull, by founding partners William James Cook, Charles Keen Welton and William Gemmell

Trawler Hull & Shipyard Workers c1900 (Web Photo: Courtesy trawlingthroughtime.org)

In 1901–1902 the business was moved up-river, nine miles, to a new yard at Grovehill, (acquired from Cochrane, Hamilton & Cooper). Now Hull might not be a place you would normally expect shipbuilding to be carried out, the river Hull seems an unlikely watercourse for anything but the smallest of vessels perhaps, however, in typical and ingenious manner, large ships, significantly larger than our small vessel the Elk, were indeed launched, sideways on, into the River Hull from the early 1800’s on up until as late as 1962 in fact

Cook, Welton & Gemmell Shipyard Workers c1901 (Web Photo: Courtesy Flickr.com)

The river was dredged to facilitate the deeper draught hulls of the larger vessels Cook, Walton & Gemmell intended on building, photos of the time show the exercise to have been very successful, most vessels from 1902 were larger than the sail-ships that had gone before

Sideways Launch from Cook Welton & Gemmell in 1907 (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikipedia)

Thomas E. Fisher & Henry Morris Co Ltd had been started around 1893 and, as the name implies, was a partnership between the main Trawler Owner, Thomas Fisher, and a local Trawler Captain Henry Morris. It would be Henry Morris that captained the Elk out of Grimsby, and his crew would be responsible for the catch, its cleaning and stowage and its landing back in Grimsby. The Elk was a traditional if innovative trawler known locally as “Ketch” rigged, meaning it still had the ability to deploy and use sails when or “if” the right moment called for it

Triple Expansion Steam Engine as Fitted to Elk (Web Photo: Origin Unknown)

It would be interesting to talk to skippers of the time to hear if the sails were ever deployed on these trawlers, they seem a throwback rather than anything really practical, although they likely wouldn’t have been fitted unless there was actual use envisaged, even occasional, a Yorkshireman would not waste the expense of rigging and sails unless there was good reason! Perhaps the truth of it is the period was a transition, sail giving way, reluctantly, to steam and perhaps the “learning curve” included judging the right amount of coal to carry for long journeys (with few ports of call once Scotland was to stern), or the expectation of occasional “issues” with the new steam technology, either way in 1902 the Elk was fitted with a sail to rearward and two on her main mast for’ard

General Arrangement Drawings of C, W&G Trawlers Bardolph & Caliban Hulls 217 & 218 (Web Photo: Courtesy East Riding Archive)

The GA Drawings above show the arrangement & layout used on Elk, at hull 329, Elk was only a couple of years after Bardolph & Caliban and, as Cook, Walton & Gemmell were progressive rather than “cutting edge”, the assumption (born out by the hull of Elk and the few but reasonably clear photos of her), is that she was very similar to both those earlier trawlers. Elk was a “sidewinder” where her trawling gear was concerned, dragging her trawl from Port or Starboard side by means of a boom & tackle arrangement controlled from the centre of the deck just in front of the funnel where the steam winches were situated

Beam Trawl c1893 (Web Illustration: Courtesy University of Washington)

The Elk would make many dangerous journeys for her owners, between her launch in 1902 and the onset of war in 1914, she proved herself a rugged and, it would seem, profitable little ship. Her owner in 1914 being registered as Morris & Fisher Ltd, a change of name of the original company but retaining the same shipping manager, Thomas E Fisher. It would be the rugged construction of the Elk and her companions, fishing the brutal waters of Iceland, which attracted her to the British Admiralty, as the declaration of war between Austro-Hungary and Serbia plunged the countries of Europe and the Levant into a mass conflagration, one that would eventually be declared a World War and be commemorated in history as World War One

The Elk’s Crew Pre-War (Web Photo: Courtesy Peter Mitchell RIP)

 
Grimsby Docks in WWI (Web Photo: Courtesy Grimsby Telegraph)

The decision taken by the Admiralty, on the declaration of war in 1914, to requisition the Elk & many of the Grimsby & Milford trawler fleet vessels, had been taken as a result of a far earlier recommendation by Admiral Lord Charles Beresford, made in 1907 (“Hullwebs History of Hull, Trawlers at War-World War One” Online Resource: https://www.hullwebs.co.uk/content/l-20c/conflict/ww1/trawlers/default.htm Accessed: 27/11/2021) “….Beresford recommended that steam trawlers be used in the role of minesweepers in the event of war. This would free up warships for other, more appropriate, duties”.  Beresford clearly understood the trawlers were more than ideal, they were small craft and maneuverable, they were used to often working in close proximity to each other when catching tightly massed shoals of fish, they were also used to towing, something perhaps the British Navy were not! Minesweeping was a similar activity, and unremarkably both trawling and minesweeping were high risk activities, the men of Hull, Grimsby and the fishing ports of the UK were no strangers to imminent and often fatal danger……..

Minesweeping, Gallipoli 1915, WWI (Web Illustration: Courtesy Wikimedia from Le Miroir, April 4, 1915)

Dr Katherine Storr writes (“FISHING PORTS AND COASTAL TOWNS, War-Time” P4, Para2. Online Resource: https://www.heritagesouthholland.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/AOS-D-0166-7_-Fishing.pdf  Accessed: 27/11/2021) “On Tuesday, 4 August 1914, fishing craft returning to Grimsby found light cruisers, submarines and treacherous mines laid in the North Sea by Britain and Germany, so the fish dock quickly became clogged. Most trawlers were immediately commandeered for Admiralty service and within a few hours some were engaged in minesweeping” It is not hard to believe that the Trawlers of England, Wales & Scotland were put to use almost immediately, the Germans had developed new mine technology (see the piece on the Adriatic wreck Baron Gautsch) and it was proving very effective. The world’s battleship fleets had been engaged in a race for supremacy since the British invention of the “Dreadnought” class, and although Britain had the largest Dreadnought fleet, under Admiral John (Jackie) Fischer, berthed at Scapa Flow in the Orkneys, by 1914 the Kaiser’s “Hochseeflotte” (High Seas Fleet), under Admiral Alfred Von Tirpitz, was a very close (too close) second place

Scarborough Sea-Front Hotel, 16th Dec 1914 (Web Photo: Courtesy The Great War Blog)

The first action of the German high seas fleet must have galvanized the trawlermen of Grimsby, it was very close to home….. Rear Amiral Franz Von Hipper’s “Scouting Group” tried to entice the British out of Scapa Flow by carrying out shelling of Scarborough, Hartlepool and Whitby on 15–16 December 1914

Tugs at Gallipoli 1915 (Web Photo: Courtesy Australian War Memorial)

The Elk would be in the thick of WWI very quickly, she and many of her Grimsby fleet were needed for 1st sea Lord of the Admiralty, Winston Churchill’s, Gallipoli Campaign. Churchill had submitted a plan to the War Cabinet in late 1914 (as the land campaign in Europe became mired in trench warfare), to force a fleet of pre-Dreadnought battleships up the Bospherous, to bombard Constantinople (Istanbul), in order to prevent the Ottoman Turks joining the Germans in mainland Europe, (the Turks having refused to join the Allies against the Austro-Hungarians at the outbreak of war) and potentially to threaten Germany from the Southern flank of the conflict

Gallipoli & Constantinople (Web Illustration: Courtesy awm.gov.au)

The Elk sailed to Gallipoli, (a distance of 3686 nautical miles, expected to take 10 to 14 days at 9 knots) along with her trawler sister-ship fleets to take up various duties, they were, on arrival, and from the outset in mortal danger, undertaking the towing of “Lighters” the large rowing boats that carried troops ashore

Towing Troops Ashore, Suvla Bay 1915 (Web Photo: Courtesy awm.gov.au)

They carried out transfers between ships and, perhaps most dangerous of all, minesweeping duties to keep the Allied fleet of British and French warships free to manœuvre. Churchill’s plans were thwarted when the Turks resistance proved far more effective than expected, the fleet did not manage to break through to Constantinople, the Ottoman shore based artillery managing to hold off several ferocious and determined assaults by the combined fleet

The Ottoman Minelayer, Nusret, Gallipoli 1915 (Web Photo: Courtesy navyingallipoli.com)

Indeed, in a devastating twist of irony, the Turks managed to outwit the Allies, having noticed the manner of attacks by the battleships, on several occasions, and, using guile and stunning alacrity, they laid a mine run of 20 mines across a stretch of the Dardanelles (Erin Keui Bay). The Allies had used the bay, repeatedly, to turn about (180’ about face) the well laid mines took out 3 battleships in one morning, the French Battleship Bouvet, the British Battleship HMS Irresistible and the British Battleship HMS Ocean, they seriously damaged 3 more (French ships Gaulois & Suffren and British ship HMS Inflexible), although there is modern day contention the Bouvet “may” have been hit by shore based Ottoman artillery

HMS Irresistible Sinking Dardanelles 1915 (Web Photo: Courtesy naval-history.net)

If ever there was a visceral demonstration of “Hubris” then this was it, from that point on the Dardanelles would not see another significant Battleship attack, and the allied fleet withdrew to the bays at Suvla, Gaba Tepe (Anzac Beach), Tekke Burnu & Hellespoint. The battle became land based on the headlands at Anzac Beach and Hellespoint, and quickly bogged down in exactly the manner of Ypres, Verdun and Mons. The trawlers of Grimsby, Hull and Milford would now be in a constant state of extreme danger, the Ottoman forces occupied the high ground with clear observation points across all of the allied lines of offence, although, at first undermanned, it did not take them long to grind the allies to a halt without them getting far off the beaches and headlands. The waters in front of the beaches were easily observed and it is a miracle that more ships were not sunk between the landing and the evacuation of troops in January of 1916 (New Zealand History  “The Gallipoli campaign, The Evacuation” P6, Para 4. Online Resource: https:// nzhistory.govt.nz /war/the-gallipoli-campaign/the-end-of-the-campaign Accessed: 28/11/2021) “The evacuation of Anzac began on 15 December, and 36,000 troops were shipped out over four nights. Support troops and reserves went first, then the fighting units were thinned out until only 10,000 remained on 19 December. They moved out that night in a coordinated withdrawal from the front-line trenches. At 4.10 a.m. on the 20th, the last men left Anzac Cove. Suvla was evacuated the same night, but British and French forces remained at Helles until 8-9 January 1916. Then the campaign was over”

Grimsby Trawlermen Home Again 1919 (Web Photo: Courtesy Grimsby News)

Those who survived Gallipoli did not necessarily survive the war, when the trawlers came back from the Dardanelles the war raged on in Europe for another 3 years, and there was still mortal danger around the shores of Britain and France, the U Boat was a threat and mines were constantly being laid in nighttime forays by the Germans around our coasts, “….By the end of the war, of Grimsby’s 700 steam trawlers, 600 were requisitioned, 433 became fighting units, and some 60 were lost with 519 men, leaving 313 widows and 480 orphans. Altogether 5,875 Grimsby men joined the Navy or the auxiliary services on patrol and minesweeping duties” (“FISHING PORTS AND COASTAL TOWNS, War-Time” P4, Para2. Online Resource: https://www.heritagesouthholland.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/AOS-D-0166-7_-Fishing.pdf Accessed: 27/11/2021) Remarkably, the Elk survived her minesweeping duties and brought her crew back to Grimsby, fishing again (initially for the Admiralty, for the Fishing Reserve, flying the White Ensign but fishing under Navy control, but then returned to civilian ownership), for almost another decade in what was a more peaceful time, but would very soon become known as  the “Between War” years

Naval Monument, Suvla, Gallipoli 2018

By the time the Elk was sold by the Victoria Steam Fishing Company, to a Mr Oliver Curphey of Milford in Wales, becoming registered as the M36 14th Nov 1929, there were rumblings from Germany of a new threat rising. A month later, in December of 1929 the German Nation held a referendum, in it the National Socialist German Worker’s Party (or Nazi’s for short), proposed a new law against the “Enslavement of the German People”, an attempt to formally renounce the Treaty of Versailles (which compelled reparations on the German economy in repayment for the damages caused by World War I)……. it would only be a little less than 4 years later that Adolf Hitler would become “Reichschancellor” of Germany and galvanize the German Nation, once more, against the rest of Europe and eventually most of the globe. In 1931, the Elk was again sold on, this time to move down to the South Coast, on the 21st of Jun 1932 she joined her new owner, William Henry Edward Nichols, in dock at Plymouth to fish the waters of Plymouth Sound

Elk as M36 Registered at Milford (Web Photo: Courtesy John Stevenson)

  “Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more”……Shakespeare’s King Henry V could not have put it more aptly, the Anschluss, or “annexation” of Austria in 1938 was nothing less than a declaration of war, but the British Prime Minister, Neville Chamberlain, as so often happens, sought to appease Hitler and the German Nation. It would not be until Hitler scornfully stormed into Poland, 01st of September of 1939, that the world realised appeasement of an enemy just delays your potential destruction….it doesn’t…ever…. stop it (look up the Aztec Ruler Montezuma, the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra, or the Indian Nations of America to name just a few). Far better to let Shakespeare and King Henry V again lead the way “In peace there’s nothing so becomes a man as modest stillness and humility, but when the blast of war blows in our ears, then imitate the action of the tiger, stiffen the sinews, summon up the blood, disguise fair nature with hard-favour’d rage”. Once the realisation dawned, and Chamberlains’ “peace in our time” was seen for what it was, it would fall to another veteran of war, Winston Churchill, (former disgraced and removed 1st Sea-Lord of the Admiralty, re-appointed to the same title by Chamberlain, only 2 days following the invasion of Poland, who by the 10th of May 1940, had succeeded Neville Chamberlain as Prime Minister)……. to ensure the days of appeasement were over 

HMT Elk, Starboard Gear Deployed (Web Photo: Courtesy shipsproject.org)

The war did not come entirely unexpectedly, as a result, the British War Office had begun making rudimentary preparations in advance, at least where the Royal Navy was concerned. In the spring of 1939 the Elk and 39 of her sisterships were requisitioned, once again, for service as minesweepers and converted from their trawls to Oropesa (Paravanes) or Dan laying duties. Nick Stanley wrote a comprehensive account of minesweeping in WWII which details the preparations: “These measures included the conversion of trawlers into minesweepers; a process the Admiralty had started in Spring 39. Training for the new crews took place at sea throughout that summer from bases such as Sheerness & Chatham. With war drawing closer, Sparrow’s Nest at Lowestoft was activated on 1 September 1939 for trawler conversions. War’s outbreak on 3rd September 1939 saw the RN’s sweeping force stand at 36 Fleet Sweepers & 40 Trawlers crewed by 2000 personnel” (Stanley, N. in “World War II, Minesweeping in the second world war”, Online Resource: https://www.vernonlink.uk/wwii Accessed 03/12/2021). Elk was fitted out with a single bow mounted gun for self defence (likely a 6 pounder), and given her pennant (Admiralty Trawler No 706, Pennant FY 4.24) and assigned for Dan laying

Dan Buoys Laid to indicate Swept Lanes (Web Illustration: Courtesy Ian Moffatt)

Dan-laying was the task allotted to indicate “swept” channels cleared of mines “Mark buoys, “Dan” type, are casks with an axial spar and counterweight, causing the spar to float vertically. The moorings consist of a 500-pound sinker and a 30-fathom mooring line of 1/2-inch flexible steel wire with eye and thimble spliced in each end. The buoy itself is equipped with a vertical bridle for mooring, with two thimble cringles, for attachment of the mooring lines for shoal and for deep water” (Editorial: “Mine Sweeping Manual United States Navy 1917” In Online Resource: https:// www.history.navy.mil/research/library/ online-reading-room/ title-list-alphabetically/ m/mine-sweeping-manual-1917.html Accessed 05/12/2021) and the practice hadn’t changed much since HMT Elk’s last Naval experiences. This would be just as dangerous as clearing itself, often at the very limits of swept lanes, which meant the Elk was exposed to the unswept side of the lane and any mines within it…….

Oropesa Sweep Gear, 1940, HMS Hazard (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War museum)
German “LMB” Magnetic Parachute Mine, Usually Dropped by Heinkel He115 and He111 aircraft. (Web Photo: Courtesy wildfire3.com)

Elk took up her 1939 duties in WWII as she had in 1914, this time patrolling the approaches of Plymouth Sound, the area off Fort Bovisands and the Breakwater would have been very familiar from her fishing days. Elk patrolled with the Minelayers of the Royal Naval Patrol Service (RNPS) under a Captain J. S. Bush of the Royal Navy Reserve, not a regular Naval Captain but a usually seasoned seaman or recently retired Naval Officer. The threat this time even more potent than that in Gallipoli, the Germans were not only laying “contact” mines, the horned, acid circuit EMC mines, seen as cutting edge in 1914, but had added several new and dramatically improved versions such as the ground mine, an inappropriate name for a mine usually dropped by parachute from an aircraft, but named for its ability to sit on the sea floor

Kriegsmarine EMC Contact Mines 1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy weaponsandwarfare.com)

Now the threat included delayed mines, sitting in wait and counting a number of acoustic or magnetic contacts until the numbers crunched and the mine detonated, “…..mines in the Bristol Channel were observed detonating even though there had been no evidence of a ‘lay’. Suspicions over the introduction of arming delays & ship counts were then confirmed by Mine Destructor Ship HMS BUSHWOOD over a period of 4 days in Swansea Bay” (Stanley, N. in “World War II, Minesweeping in the second world war”, Online Resource: https://www.vernonlink.uk/wwii Accessed: 03/12/2021), then there were the acoustic mines that floated just below the surface, tethered to weighted “trucks” pushed off the back of their destroyers and E Boats, or free-floating dropped by aircraft or from boats, waiting for a ships engine signature noise and detonating as the noise reached a set level, and the most dangerous perhaps of them all, the electromagnetic mine

Minesweeping in WWII (Web Photo: Courtesy illustrationarchive.org)

Although the Germans did not have a large store of these mines (developed from a British design) they were deadly, recognizing the magnetic disturbance a steel hulled ship gave off through the water and then detonating based on strength of signal, up close usually, which inevitably meant a devastating effect on any vessel caught out by one of these mines. The minelayers task being made even more difficult in mid-1940 “in May 1940, Germany had introduced bi-polarity into its magnetic mines, necessitating a second sweep and therefore a doubling of the influence sweepers’ workload. (Stanley, N. in “World War II, Minesweeping in the second world war”, Online Resource: https://www.vernonlink.uk/wwii Accessed: 03/12/2021). The only other mine to have a similar effect being the Oyster mine, set off by the bow-wave pressure of a ship, a deadly threat, but again the Germans lacked the number or delivery methods to make these effective either

German 800Kg Magnetic “RMA” Oyster Mine (Web Photo: Courtesy navweaps.com)

Mine warfare was a denial tactic “The mine’s primary effectiveness is in its psychological impact. Mines can be laid by any platform (ship, plane, or submarine), encountered anywhere, and they are virtually undetectable. Thus, prudent mariners avoid known or suspected minefields. More significantly, mines require more effort to clear than they do to deploy” (Editorial, “Weapons and Warfare, Naval Mine Warfare, WWII” Online Resource: https://weaponsandwarfare.com/2020/05/31/naval-mine-warfare-wwii/ Accessed 04/12/2021) the Germans keenly remembered the starvation caused to their population by Britain’s denial of their ability to trade by ship. The blockading of sea trade into Germany had a devastating effect on the morale of the German public, they learned from this, and used U Boats and Minefields in an attempt to starve the British in the same manner, in fact Churchill is on record as saying his biggest fear of the war was the U Boats and the effect they could have on the war effort

HMS Hazard 1940, Sinking a German Mine by Rifle Fire (Web Photo: Courtesy Imperial War Museum)

So HMT Elk is laying Dan’s for minesweepers in 1939 and Plymouth is a priority target for the Germans, as many mines as could be laid….. were, by U-Boat through deck chutes, by Heinkel’s parachuted in at night or rolled from the back of Destroyers or E and S Boats……whatever method, there were likely thousands deployed in the early stages of WWII, all were potentially deadly, and all were targeted at British and Allied shipping, and it was indiscriminate targeting, as happy to sink a freighter as a passenger liner or a fishing trawler without thought, without conscience……

German Bomber (JU88?) Dropping Mines 1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy newhamheritagemonth.org)

 As 1940 begins things are going well for the Elk, in fact very well, in January two of her crew receive the Distinguished Service Cross, Lieutenant Charles Chapple RNVR and Petty Officer Bernard Donnelly RNR are awarded for “…unfailing courage, endurance and resources in H.M. Trawlers, Drifters and Minesweepers in their hard and perilous task of sweeping the seas clear of enemy mines, and combating submarines.”

The Gazette, Notification of Admiralty Awards, January 1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy thegazette.co.uk)
Distinguished Service Cross (DSC) (Web Photo: Courtesy tracesofwar.com)

As 1940 marched on and activities got more and more intense, with an ever increasing German campaign to starve Britain into submission, more and more of the Elk’s peers were lost. In 1939 Allied shipping losses had totaled 47 (Source: “National Museums Liverpool, The Battle of the Atlantic, The cost of battle” https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/battle-of-atlantic/cost-of-battle Accessed: 04/12/2021), by the close of 1940 losses from all causes, bombings, torpedo, mines etc, in the “Battle for the Atlantic”, would stand at 349. Sometime in 1940 the Elk was assigned to experimental countermeasures testing, in response to the changing tactics of the Germans and the introduction of acoustic mines. It seems Elk was fitted with a type of steam powered apparatus, designed at the Royal Naval Engineering College, of Keyham in Plymouth

US Navy acoustic mine sweep in Korean War, 1950. (Web Photo: Courtesy US Navy)

The photo above shows US Military personnel deploying an acoustic hammer box during acoustic mine sweeping operations off Wonsan, North Korea, in October 1950. The Korean War was fought from 25 June 1950 to 27 July 1953, with US forces supporting South Korea. The “acoustic hammer” is a device used to trigger acoustic mines. Here, it is being deployed from the minesweeper USS Mockingbird (AMS-27). Photographed on 23 October 1950.

I can find no mention of which specific type of acoustic equipment was fitted to the Elk, however an educated guess would be an early version of the “Kango” pneumatic hammer arrangement, “The next step was to mount the hammers inside an external box that was lowered into the water when in use — after a few sweepers had been sunk by acoustic mines while using internally mounted Kango hammers. The external hammers were usually hung over the side of the ship with a winch, though sometimes they were used over the bow of the ship” (Moffatt. I: “Mines and Minesweeping Techniques of WW2, Protective Measures & Minesweeping Techniques, Acoustic Minesweeping” Online Resource: http:// edinburghmodelboatclub.org.uk/ resources/ minesweepinginfofinal.pdf Accessed: 04/12/2012). Some of the trawlers mentioned as lost in the quoted piece were the Trawler Lord Inchcape, the Free French Navy Vessel Poulmic, and the Kingston Alalite, the Poulmic is another wreck written up in this blog, and it is believed she fell to an acoustic mine on the 7th November, just 20 days before HMT Elk would finally lose her gallant battle against the German Mines in Plymouth Sound…….

Stunning Shot of the Bow of HMT Elk (Web Photo: Courtesy Peter Rowlands)

My first dive on the Elk came in October of 2000 and is the only wreck dive I know that fell between the pages of my log books, the Elk appears as the usual “starred” entry in my Green Navy Log, but is marked as “wreck book II” for the description……I never instigated a second, separate wreck book, I just began to include the descriptions in my Green Navy Log……ahh well, lessons learned! I recall the dive well as it was an FSAC trip and my buddy was Phill Sherratt, we had dived the Eddystone the day before and were back on the 7m RIB, out to the Elk, as first dive on the Saturday morning in decent conditions. The descent to Elk went well, she sits upright, her hull intact, the shot had landed and dragged, luckily Jason & Paul had been in first and secured the descent line after a bit of a line search for her. Phill and I dropped right on her stern and I was immediately struck by the abundance of fish on her, Elk was covered in Bib and Pouting, a shoal of what must have been close to a hundred fish hovered over her hull, quite the largest amount of fish I had ever seen in UK waters in what had been 10 years or more of UK dives to that date! I was also struck by the Stern on Elk, the exposed frame showing through remnants of her deck, mostly she was open at deck level, with her hull interior showing   

The Stern of HMT Elk, Bare for all to see (Web Photo: Courtesy of Peter Rowlands) 

We carried on up her hull, taking in her steam boiler and engine on the way, although at the time I would not have known what type her engine was, coal or oil, I did know Elk was a steam trawler which fascinated me. I was also surprised to see the Bib hanging off the hull, when you look over the sides of the hull they are looking directly at you as if swimming vertically towards you, but they were almost motionless as if they had been stuck in place by some means, it was the first time I had seen fish hang in such a manner and it looked slightly surreal to me

The Elk’s Steam Boiler (Web Photo: Courtesy of Peter Rowlands) 

We got up towards the bow, and the remnants of what had been the bridge area, I was a bit confused, nothing was really identifiable. I did not know that most of the superstructure had been destroyed by fire following the mine explosion in 1940, and the layout of a 1902 trawler was not something I was very familiar with. To me the Elk was similar in looks to the Stanegarth, and I was kind of expecting a forward deck bridge, it seemed there was a larger deck for’ard than I’d seen before and, following the dive on Poulmic (another valiant WWII minesweeper/observer lost earlier in November of 1940), I was a little more confused than I would have admitted at the time…..Anyhow, we swam around her again following the hull in pretty respectable viz, somewhere around 10m or so, and then ascended to our deco stops, after what had been not only a great dive but also an intriguing one! It would be 6 years before I got another chance to dive the Elk and things had moved on a little for me, I had a new job which involved a lot of travel and had closed Deep Blue Diving, and, sadly, Fenton SAC, but the selling of the dive kits, and various equipment associated with both, had allowed me to take my own diving somewhere I had not expected it to go

Elk’s Bow (Web Photo: Courtesy of Peter Rowlands) 

I bought an AP Valves “Inspiration” re-breather and had signed up for training with Richie Stevens, of Deep Blue Diving in Plymouth, now there is plenty of time to discuss the co-incidence (or such) of the naming of both businesses, let’s just move on for the moment shall we….. On the course I was delighted to find we would get another shot at the Elk, and my Navy log records: “21/06/2006 HMS ELK- Plymouth Sound – 30m Rebreather dive, descent was OK, wreck was fine with the usual Bib & Pollack & one Cuckoo Wrasse, Viz OK at 3m or so & silty but OK. Dive was simple getting used to the Inspiration ascent was OK but last 6m was a nightmare fighting the solenoid – the loop & the suit…Buddy Mike” I recall the Elk sitting just as I had left her, in almost exactly the same condition, although the remains of the for’ard deck had rotted more, unsurprisingly. There were not as many fish on her either, but the viz, as described, was not anywhere near as good as we had back in 2000, but that’s UK diving for you, the Elk was still a lovely dive, even if the distractions of a new toy got the better of me in the narrative!

If you want to see and hear those who undertook both the laying of mines, and the clearance of mines then I would recommend you have a look here:

As for the Elk, luckily no one died as a result of the mine explosion that took down the courageous little steam trawler, veteran of World War 1 and willing protector of her country, yet again, 21 years later, as World War 2 ravaged Europe and threatened to do the same to Great Britain. I think the following description (Editorial “The Ships Project, HMT Elk” Online Resource: http://www.shipsproject.org/Wrecks/Wk_Elk.html Accessed: 05/12/2021) serves the Grimsby & Milford Trawler, Gallipoli Minesweeper and World War II Stalwart adequately:

“On the 27th November, just a month after the first acoustic mine had been taken apart, the Elk was off Plymouth trying out a new acoustic mine clearing device.  That day she was sweeping in the approaches to the main entrance to Plymouth Sound, on the west side just off Penlee Point, moving at a steady 5 knots with the armed trawler HMT Sasebo nearby. Over the port side of the ship she had an experimental steam powered apparatus that was designed to set off acoustic mines, this new device had been designed by the Royal Naval Engineering College in Keyham, Plymouth.  While busy sweeping there was a big explosion right underneath the ship which lifted the Elk out of the water and fractured her hull from the engine room to the stern, the vessel caught fire but stayed afloat for 45 minutes allowing all of her crew to escape unharmed”

If it wasn’t for such vessels, and those who gallantly crewed and commanded them (never the stars of Hollywood block-busters or Netflix box sets, often just receiving a couple of lines in old newspapers of the time), there wouldn’t be an England, nor a Europe free to choose, however foolishly, its own destiny……….Even in death the brave little ship managed to hang on long enough for those aboard to get to safety…….

HMS Vernon Monument to Mine Clearance, Portsmouth

“…unfailing courage, endurance and resources in H.M. Trawlers, Drifters and Minesweepers in their hard and perilous task of sweeping the seas clear of enemy mines, and combating submarines.”

I am, as always, deeply indebted to those who have helped me cover the story of my dives on the Elk and to go some way to recount the heroism of those involved in Mine Warfare!

The excellent photos of HMT Elk by Peter Rowlands, the archive photos & research prompts provided in the late Peter Mitchell’s (RIP) dive recollections and Simon Balderson of Lincs Inspire for the one really good photo of the Elk in her Grimsby Trawling days lastly to the Ships Project & Vernonlink for a great deal of background information on the Elk, Mine warfare and Minefield Clearance

Filed Under: The Wrecks

The Wrecks of Plymouth Sound

November 14, 2021 by Colin Jones

Le Poulmic

Le Poulmic (Web Photo: Courtesy musee de la resistance)

The (Le) Poulmic started her life in the Forges & Chantiers de la Mediterranee shipyard in Graville, on the river Seine at Le Havre, specifically by the village of Le Trait “……In 1917, the rural village of Le Trait became a major industrial centre with the establishment of shipbuilding activity under the aegis of the Ateliers et Chantiers de la Seine-Maritime (Maheut, 1982). A small village of three hundred inhabitants at its origins, Le Trait experienced an unprecedented expansion with the arrival of the shipyard. It then became the main source of economic development in the city of Trait. The first ship was launched in 1921” (“A work of mourning around the Ateliers et Chantiers du Havre?” Queval, S. P111 Para 1 Online Resource: https:// books.openedition.org/purh/5155? lang=en Accessed 12/11/2021). She was built as a service and passenger tender to ship parts and labour across the bay at Brest, between the town and arsenal at Brest, and the aero-marine base at Lanvéoc-Poulmic. Her name, and that of her sister ship Lanvéoc (built and engaged in the same service), coming from the name of the airfield, the ships built as Le Poulmic and Le Lanvéoc, but this piece is specific to Le Poulmic. For those of you who love the technical details: 

In what I found to be an unusual twist (if, in hindsight, perhaps predictable, given the Victorian zeal for expansion and industrialization), the shipyard at Le Havre was an entirely British concept and execution. So, a French shipyard and engineering concern, initiated and seed funded by the British, eventually builds a ship that escapes France, to come to the Aid of Britain in its time of greatest need……there’s an epic movie in there if ever I saw one! Philip Taylor with his sons Robert & Philip founded the company “Société des Forges et Chantiers de la Méditerranée” in 1853, which went on to be incorporated into a joint stock company founded by the Frenchman Armand Behic in 1856. Behic (15 January 1809 – 2 March 1891) was a French lawyer, businessman and politician who eventually served as minister of Agriculture, Commerce and Public Works in the government of Napoleon III

“La Seyne Sur Mer, Forges & Worksite. Final preparation for launch of a ship” (Web Photo: Courtesy collection-jfm.fr)

Despite some early challenges the shipyard, and the additional acquisitions of Philip and his sons, were successful and increased its foothold in French shipbuilding sector. Philip was another of the Victorian era business innovators and, like those in the Cosulich brothers yards in Monfalcone, Italy (The Shipyard of another wreck on this site, the Brioni), were perhaps the first manifestation of the term “Brain Drain”, as Philip brought many of his engineers and foremen to Le Havre from Britain: “…….In 1846 he went into partnership with the Marseille ironmaster Amédée Armand, thus putting together an industrial empire with all the components for the manufacture of steam vessels. Taylor’s recruitment of British engineers and foremen proved to be significant in the transfer of new technology to the Mediterranean countries. Among his employees were William Adams, Fleeming Jenkin and Robert Whitehead.”  (Wikipedia “Philip Taylor (Civil Engineer)” Online Resource: https:// en. wikipedia .org /wiki/Philip Taylor (civil_engineer) #cite_note-30 Accessed: 12/11/2021)

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We know what the early layout of the Forges & Chantiers de la Mediterranee shipyard in Graville looked like, in some detail, thanks to illustrations found in the Chantier Navires, and, as the illustration is specific to 1912, we can safely assume the Poulmic and her sistership the Lanvéoc were drawn up in building 2, her boilers made in building 3, their carpentry completed in Building 11, machining done in building 15 and her engine in Building 17….. And on it goes, everything necessary was on one sprawling site, with sufficient cranage to effect the fit out of a range of ships way beyond the size of our diminutive Poulmic, but Poulmic would eventually be far larger in stature than any other ship from that yard 

The Shipyard Layout at Chantiers De La Mediterranee 1912 (Web Photo: Courtesy chantier_navires)

Le Poulmic was delivered in the summer of 1937 to her customer, the French Navy, along with her sistership the Lanvéoc. Both Poulmic & Lanvéoc had identical characteristics, displacing 350 Tons, both were powered by a 540 hp diesel engine that achieved a speed of 12 knots, and both were 37.03 m long by 8.08 m wide with a 3.10m draught. As both were destined for the ferrying of equipment between Brest and the airfield and aero-marine yard and slips at Lanveoc-Poulmic, (following their successful launch in the idyllic summer months of 1937), they had a journey of some 500Km to travel to be commissioned into service

Le Havre to Brest (Web Map: Courtesy Pintrest)

Poulmic took up her role with the French Navy and, between 1937 and 1939, seems to have had no dramas, Lanveoc-Poulmic Airfield was one of 37 French aviation centres that had been allocated sea-planes in 1920 and the following years had seen the slipways at Brest developed to protect the French coast and the local port: “…..This choice meets the following criteria: the bay of Brest is a body of water capable of accommodating, in all weathers, the seaplanes of the time, an airfield can be developed for the benefit of squadron aviation based in Brest, the strategic interest: close to Brest (8 km in direct line), Lanvéoc is far enough away however not to be subject to possible blockades of military and commercial ports”  (“Base D’Aeronautique Naval Lanveoc-Poulmic, Historical” Online Resource: http://www.ffaa.net /naval_stations/ lanveoc-poulmic/lanveoc-poulmic_fr.htm Accessed: 12/11/2021)

Sea Planes at Lanveoc Poulmic, Likely CAMS 55 Variants (Web Photo: Courtesy French Fleet Air Arm)

Looking closely at the photo of the sea planes lined up on the slip at Lanveoc-Poulmic, the keen eyed amongst you will likely pick out the familiar lines of either Poulmic or her sistership Lanveoc at the dock. As already noted, before the outbreak of the Second World War both Poulmic and her sister were carriers between the Maritime Airport at Lanveoc and Brest, seen beyond the dock, in the distance. The Sea-Planes aligned on the slip look like Construction Aeromarines De La Seine  (CAMS) 55-10 variants fitted with 4 blade front prop and 2 bladed rear Props, and Gnôme & Rhône Radial engines of 1928 or so vintage

French Marine Aviation CAMS 55 Fitted with Hispano Suiza Engines (Web Photo: Courtesy msacomputer.com)

The CAMS 55 series were anecdotally noted as being the best product ever made at Construction Aeromarines De La Seine and had several engine options, the CAMS type 55-10 had Gnôme & Rhône motors, the CAMS 55 variants were more numerous than those fitted with Hispano-Suiza engines fitted with 2 bladed props forward & rearward. (“Naissance des Chantiers Aéro Maritimes de la Seine (CAMS)” Online Resource: http://www.hydroretro.net/etudegh/cams.pdf P17. Accessed 11/11/2021)

CAMS 55-10 With a Gnome & Rhone Motor & Twin Machine Gun Nose Array (Web Photo: Courtesy Musée de Sartrouville)

It seemed the Poulmic had found her niche, she and her sistership carried out their duties faithfully, delivering the workforce to their place of work twice daily, and ferrying equipment and materials between the railheads at Brest and the slips at the quayside without incident. But fate held more in store for the Poulmic, in the East of Europe that fate was being cast as Germany invaded Poland, Sept 01st 1939, plunging Europe into a second mass conflict that seemingly none could escape, indeed, the fate of the Poulmic was sealed only two days later when Germany turned her wrath on France on September the 3rd of 1939

U Boat Report 17th Nov 1939 (Web Photo: Courtesy royalnavy.mod.uk)

The French were mostly siding with the allies, and the Brest airfield and aero-marine yards shared information to assist the war effort for as long as they could hold out against Nazi Germany, reports such as the one above, from Lanveoc Poulmic radio station (https://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/-/media/royal-navy-responsive/ documents /units/rnssc/ admiralty-war-diary-november-1939.pdf) evidence the French fight, and the valuable information passed to the allies during that time, as much as the fighting in the countryside around Paris did. The German forces were superior to those of the ill-prepared allies, Germany had provided military support to the Spanish civil war helping Franco seize Spain from the Republicans, their Condor Legion gave their pilots valuable experience and helped Hitler develop “Blitzkrieg” (Lightening War) tactics, faced paced, asymmetric attacks quickly overwhelming huge areas past outdated “battle lines” supposed to defend France, static, old fashioned methodologies, easily by-passed by modern mobile and agile German forces. By the 25th of June 1940 the fate of France had been sealed, the battle for Paris was over and the Germans, under Adolf Hitler, were in control of Paris, effectively giving them control of all of France……but not all of the French

Captain Paul Vibert (1912-1970) in 1941 in FNFL Uniform (Web Photo: Courtesy wikimedia)

The Poulmic had taken her chance and, under the command of Chief Boatswain’s Mate Le Guen, had sailed for England, arriving in Plymouth 18th June 1940 where she, her Captain, and her crew were taken over by the British Admiralty for war service. Under the banner of the Free French Navy, (Les Forces Navales Francaises Libres, abbreviated, in timeless tradition, to “FNFL”) Poulmic was tasked as a patrol boat and provided a harbour service between French ships Until 3 July of 1940

Les Forces Navales Francaises Libres, FNFL (Web Photo: Courtesy airmeter.skyrock.com)

30th August 1940 the British Admiralty returned Poulmic to the command of the Free French, under Admiral Emile Muselier of the FNFL (Emile Muselier one of only 5 French Generals to align with the Allies under De Gaulle & was responsible for distinguishing his fleet from that of Vichy France by adopting the Cross of Lorraine, which would become the emblem of all of the Free French Forces during WWII), and command of Poulmic was transferred to Captain Paul Vibert, formerly second in command of the French Submarine Minerve (“The Poulmic Patroller, Historical Context” Online Resource: http:// museedelaresistanceenligne. org/media2880-Le-patrouilleur-iPoulmic-i#fiche-tab Accessed:  13/11/2021). Paul Vibert and his crew of 17 would operate Le Poulmic, from that point on, as a mine patrol ship. On 7th November 1940, the Poulmic left the safety of the harbour to take up a position off Plymouth  

RAF Reconnaissance Photo, Lanveoc-Poulmic Airfield, Nov 1943 (Web Photo: Courtesy aircrewremembered.com)

Captain Paul Vibert details his mission on taking command of Le Poulmic: (“The end of the Poulmic patrol boat” In “Testimonials” Cornil, S.  7 may 2019 Online Resource: https://www.france-libre.net/la-fin-du-patrouilleur-poulmic/ Accessed: 14/11/2021) “On November 7, 1940, I was ordered to set sail at 5 p.m. and take up position for the night at a point about three miles south of the Plymouth breakwater. My instructions were as follows: as soon as the enemy planes were flagged from land two converging searchlights would illuminate the sea. We had to try to spot each parachuted mine by the light of these projectors, take a bearing and appreciate the distance in order to immediately signal their position on land”

 

Poulmic c1938 Appears Adjusted to Enhance Detail (Web Photo: Courtesy photo: © Forum ATF40)

Preparations began immediately the instructions were received, Captain Vibert ordering the Poulmic prepared for the worst, and the crew to take all precautions possible in the circumstances: “…We knew the positions of some mines, set the previous days, which forced us to sail carefully to get out of the port. I had taken all the usual precautions, the life rafts were divested and every man, including the mechanics in the machine, wore his life belt. On this subject, I had a small discussion with the liaison officer, a young and friendly second lieutenant R.N.V.R. Indeed, I thought it was better to give more confidence to the crew, that I did not wear the belt myself and he felt that being also an officer he should imitate me. I made him understand that my order was also addressed to him, alas, his belt was useless to him because a little more than an hour later, he disappeared with the ship and I believe that his body was never found.”

Typical Wartime FNFL Bridge Scene 1944 (Web Photo: Courtesy colsbleus.fr)

The mission would be the last the Poulmic would ever take, on arrival at the search area, as Poulmic was maneuvering into position there was a massive explosion, identified by many at the time as likely that from a German acoustic parachute mine, Poulmic had been taken down by the very mines she was sent to identify, Captain Vibert describes the incident: “…..The first maneuver master, second in command, followed a ferry lift with a compass.”Another 10 degrees, Commander” – “The two engines front half” – “Another 5 degrees” – “Stop” – “Another 3 degrees” – “The two engines behind half” – “Ready to anchor” I leaned to starboard from the navigation bridge to see the eddies of the propellers, a few seconds of waiting… a foamy stir and suddenly a terrible explosion, an extraordinary breath tore me from the footbridge like a straw fetu. I kept from this short air trip an impression of colors, black and white, then gray, probably the color of the boat, before landing head first on the deck where I lost consciousness. We had just jumped on an acoustic mine submerged exactly at our anchorage. The ship, open under the bridge, sank in 15 seconds, leaving no chance for the mechanics at their engine maneuvering station”

Sailors of the FNFL, Loyal to Free France, c1940 (Web Photo: Courtesy defense.gouv.fr)

Le Poulmic had struck a mine, tearing her apart and believed to have set off two more mines in the vicinity, Poulmic was said to have been torn to the level of her engine room, literally blasted to shreds by the explosion: “…..I regained consciousness, the water entering the interior of the vessel was placing me against the hull. At the cost of violent efforts, I returned to the surface. Only the top of the mast emerged, I vaguely distinguished in the darkness a few men clinging to a raft. Another was near me. The English helmsman was hanging on the mast and was quick to sing us the last successes of his country, probably to encourage those who did not have such a solid point of support. A torpedo boat about two miles away illuminated the scene with its projector” The Poulmic sank quickly, south of Plymouth Breakwater, in the explosion and its aftermath, 11 crew were lost, luckily 7 were rescued by the MTB Captain Vibert mentions in his recalling of the incident, Paul Vibert himself was severely wounded and unwittingly Le Poulmic had become the first ship loss of World War II for the FNFL

Honouring Le Poulmic and her Lost Crew Members:

March of 1947, (“Le Patroller Poulmic” In: “Revue de la France Libre” No 33, December 1950) General de Gaulle, Commander-in-Chief of the Free French Forces, from the medal citation of Le Poulmic:

“This small vessel participated during the months of September and October 1940, in often difficult conditions, in numerous patrol missions along the coast of Great Britain. Commanded by crew officer Vibert, and fell to an enemy mine on the night of November 7, 1940.”

Le Poulmic was honoured in the FNFL by decree of General de Gaulle and awarded the newly created, Médaille de la Résistance, by decree dated March 31, 1947. The medal had been decided on by General de Gaulle, as “leader of Fighting France” (“Aux Marins, Marins morts pour la France, Le Poulmic” Online Resource: https://memorial-national-des-marins.fr/12-aux-marins/batiments/3424-poulmic Accessed: 14/11/2021) The medal’s purpose was to “recognise the remarkable acts of faith and bravery which, in France, throughout the Empire and abroad, have been contributing to the resistance of the French people against the enemy and their accomplices since 18 June 1940.” On 20 August 1942, the medal commission settled on the name “Médaille de la Résistance Française” The French Resistance Medal was instituted in London on 9 February 1943 and was the second and only other decoration created during the war by General de Gaulle, after the Order of Liberation

French Resistance Medal Front & Rear “Your Country Has not Forgotten” (Web Photos: Courtesy orderdelaliberation.fr)

I dived Le Poulmic in March of 1999 off the local Hardboat “UK National” with Jason McNamara dive-master from Deep Blue Diving and a couple of the FSAC divers, including Jason Underwood. The remains of Le Poulmic lie outside the Plymouth Breakwater at around 20m, my little Red Wreck Log records: “03/04/99 Plymouth (NW of Breakwater) POULMIC (Free French Navy) There’s little left of Poulmic but old pieces of twisted metal & bits she hit a mine and went Bang “Big Time” We found U Bolts & some winch gear with a large toothed wheel or gear but the rest is just bits of the reef now, hunting was fun but surge was heavy.” I recall a little more than that as the visibility was 5 or 6m which isn’t bad considering the Atlantic swells that run up Plymouth Sound on a regular basis. The area Le Poulmic was destroyed over is largely rock gullies with occasional patches of shale and kelp. There is the usual marine life present too, shoals of Pouting, plenty of crabs, the occasional Juvenile, and sometimes larger Wrasse. I’ve often seen Cuckoo Wrasse in the Sound too, but don’t recall seeing any on Poulmic.  On the day we didn’t see much more than twisted bits of metal which would have taken a far better marine archaeologist or engineer to determine than I have ever been, but there is more to be found on the site I believe at least one boiler has been found and some of the wreckage sits 1.5m off the bottom, needless to say that was not the area we found ourselves on in 1999, but it shows there is more to the site if you can dig around the area

The Fate of the Crew of Le Poulmic

(Information for the Tables: Courtesy shipsproject.org)
(Information for the Tables: Courtesy shipsproject.org)

“At The Going Down Of The Sun…..And In The Morning”

Meaning of every coloured poppy for Remembrance Day | Express.co.uk

Filed Under: The Wrecks

SV Crompton

November 6, 2021 by Colin Jones

Valentia Southern Ireland

The Barque Crompton c1900 South Australia State Library PRG 1373/27/46 (Web Photo: Courtesy Edwardes, Arthur Diedrich, c. 1845-1950, Manuscript, PRG 1373/27/46)

Thomas Royden, a master carpenter, opened a shipyard on Baffin Street on the west side of Queens Dock, Liverpool in 1818. Thomas Royden  was an English ship-owner and Conservative Party politician. After a brief partnership with James Ward as Royden & Ward in 1819-20, he eventually took his two sons, Thomas Bland Royden and Joseph Royden, into partnership and the company was renamed Thomas Royden & Sons in 1859 (Royden. M “The Roydens of Frankby a Brief History of a famous Wirral family” Royden Family History Pages – The Roydens of Frankby (roydenhistory.co.uk) On Line resource: Accessed 26/10/21): “In 1808 Thomas moved to Liverpool and secured employment as a master carpenter with Charles Grayson, a prominent shipbuilding firm. There was a brief lull in trade and shipbuilding during the period of his employment, mainly due to trade restrictions resulting from the wars with France and America, but by 1818 Thomas was confident enough to set up his own yard to capitalise on the consequent resurgence. The site was Baffin Street on the west side of Queens Dock, and Thomas lived nearby in Harrington Street. The business grew steadily and despite a devastating fire in 1825, success continued while several other shipyards folded around him. 1825 also saw his marriage to Ann Dean, step-daughter of Thomas Bland of Bland, Chaloner Co, another established Liverpool shipbuilder” Thomas Royden & Sons expanded by acquiring a neighboring Queens Dock shipyard from Peter Chaloner & Son in 1863, shipbuilding was changing rapidly at the time and Royden & Sons made the transition from building wooden to iron-hulled ships, Thomas Royden, perhaps unwilling to embrace the transition from wooden to steel ships himself, retired, leaving the company in the hands of his son Thomas Bland Royden. The increased size of the combined yards facilitated a gradual increase in output, from six ships in 1866 to twelve in 1869, in 1890 The Royden Yard Built The SV Crompton for their client MacVicar Marshall & Company

Sir Thomas Bland Royden, 1st Baronet Royden 20 February 1831 – 29 August 1917 (Web Photo: Courtesy M Royden roydenhistory.co.uk)

Thomas Bland Royden became a member of Liverpool City Council in 1873, and was elected Mayor of Liverpool in 1878–1879. Thomas & his family, two sons (Thomas & Ernest) and six daughters, lived at Frankby Hall on the Wirral. Thomas became a Justice of the Peace for Liverpool and was elected Member of Parliament for Liverpool West, Toxteth, eventually standing down in 1892. Thomas was appointed High Sheriff of Cheshire in 1903, and then a deputy lieutenant of Cheshire at the end of that year,two years later being made Baronet Royden on 29 July 1905.  He died 29th August 1917 at the age of 86

Liverpool Docks 1909, Thomas Royden & Sons Between Queen’s & Coburg Dock (Web Photo: Courtesy Wikiwand.com)

The company also began operating its own ships, founding the Indra Line in 1888. This came to dominate the company’s activities, and in 1893 Royden’s sold their shipyard to concentrate on shipping operations and management. In another of those 5 degrees of separation, given my Father’s maritime history, Royden’s sold the Indra Line to Alfred Holt’s Blue Funnel Line in 1915, and from 1916 operated the Santa Clara Steam Ship Company on the South American route. The Santa Clara Company was eventually sold to the Bristol City Line in 1930 finally bringing Royden’s independent shipping operations to a close

Liverpool Docks c1900 (Web Photo: Courtesy Pinterest)
 

From the volume ‘British Owned Iron and Steel Ships (IV) Masted Barques and Ships’.

The Crompton’s Owners were MacVicar, Marshall and Co. registered in Liverpool: (Graces Guide to British Industrial History: “1914 Who’s Who in Business: Company M” On Line resource https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/ 1914_Who%27s_Who_in_Business:_Company_M Accessed: 26/10/2021) “Macvicar Marshall & Co: Shipowners, 13, Castle Street, Liverpool. Hours of Business: 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Established in 1882 by A. R. Marshall and Neil Macvicar (d). Present Principals: A. R. Marshall, P. Hugh Marshall and William Pritchard. Claim to have been owners at one time of some of the largest sailing-ships in England. Premises: Consist of the front second floor at Queen Insurance Buildings, Castle Street, Liverpool. Staff: Seven, and Consulting Engineer and Marine Superintendent. Business: Steamship Owners and Insurance Agents. Connection: United Kingdom, Foreign and Colonial. Telephone: No. 844 Central, Liverpool. Telegraphic Address: “Martial, Liverpool.” Codes: Scott’s, ABC and Watkin’s. Bankers: London City and Midland Bank Ltd., and Parr’s Bank, Ltd. Clubs: Exchange and Conservative, &c.,” Liverpool, MacVicar Marshall & Co survived as shipowners up until a couple of months prior to the grounding of the Crompton in 1907

MacVicar Marshall & Co Closure notice THE LONDON GAZETTE, MARCH 22, 1907
The steel 4 masted barque ‘Crompton’, 2810 tons, in an unidentified harbour (Web Photo: Courtesy Edwardes, A D Collection, South Australia State Library)

On 23rd November 1910 the Crompton was en route from Tacoma to Limerick filled to the gunwales with grain, when she encountered a combination of bad weather and fog and ran aground on rocks at Dromgour Point near Port Magee, Ireland. Crompton was carrying 38,233 sacks of Wheat, weighing 2700 tons, from the Tacoma, Washington state in the USA. Why bring wheat in from the USA when the UK & Ireland produce wheat themselves, well this was the 1900’s and industrialization was concentrating the majority of the population into cities, specifically, the major employers were new industrial factories, people were no longer content eking out a hand to mouth existence on small-holdings, even larger scale farmers were under pressure and struggling to produce sufficient crop to meet the needs of the growing population, import was becoming more and more inevitable as the UK became less and less able to meet the requirements for food from her own lands and farming techniques, but the vast spaces of the USA were ideal for huge crops, more than sufficient for the needs of their population…..with plenty to spare for export and the revenue that would bring……huge ships like the Crompton were queuing up in Tacoma to fill their holds for the journey East across the Atlantic

Seattle, Washington. A Grain Mill, Loading a Barque for Export c1893 (Web Photo: Unknown Origin)

The background to the Crompton’s transatlantic journeys, her embarkation from Tacoma, Washington State in Southern USA, her stop in Melbourne, Australia and her passages across the wild Atlantic ocean were a part of the wheat trade between the Great Britain and the USA, at that time just a hundred or so years on from having been a colony of the British Empire, but now well-established as an independent trading nation and just as happy to sell her produce, wherever there were buyers, as Great Britain was to feed her growing industrial cities………   

100Lb Contemporary American Wheat Sack (Web Photo: Courtesy W. Shermeyer)

 

There is an interesting potted history of the US Southern States Wheat trade by Norman Reed, which details the Tacoma area wheat farming and export, I think it adds some context to both the development of the USA as a global trading nation and also to the background of the Crompton and its eventual loss off Valentia (Reed, N. “Flour Milling in Washington — A Brief History” On Line resource: https://www.historylink.org/File/9474 Accessed 27/10/2021): “……..Every farm community needed a mill within horse-and-wagon distance so that the annual crop could be milled into flour. As mentioned, it all started at Colville and eight mills were running in Stevens County in the years between 1816 and 1889. As the settlers arrived over the Oregon Trail and became acquainted with the soil they discovered that Eastern Washington was extraordinarily suited to growing wheat. Wheat grew everywhere — on the round tops of hills, on the benches, on the plateaus and foothills. No irrigation was necessary, and the rich soil required no fertilizing. The earliest railroads were established for the grain and flour trade. Eastern Washington’s wheat was already being exported out of Portland and to areas as far away as Liverpool, England. Between 1880 and 1893 the Pacific Northwest experienced a rate of growth seldom equaled in any section of the United States. Tacoma’s and Spokane’s growth were even more impressive. This growth was, in great part, the result of the development of the railroads and their aggressive advertising. The flour-milling industry reached its heyday at this time. Spokane was said to rank as the seventh largest milling center in the nation by 1900, ranking just behind such locations as Niagara Falls, Grand Rapids, and Minneapolis-St. Paul.”

Tacoma, Washington, Grain Elevator & Railhead 1898 (Web Photo: Courtesy Addison Ludden from the University of Washington Collection)

Reed goes on to mention the rapid expansion of the wheat and flour trade in the Tacoma area and Portland: “The trade with the Orient and the growing Western Washington population encouraged larger and more modern flour mills to be established in the Puget Sound cities. First in Seattle was the Novelty Mills, out towards West Seattle. Centennial built its mill on the waterfront just south of the current sports domes, opening in 1898. By 1906 that stretch of waterfront was home to three mills: the Hammond Milling Company, Albers Cereal Mills, and Centennial. The Fisher Flouring Mills opened on Harbor Island in 1911. Seattle now had seven mills, as the Chas. Lilly Company produced flour as well as seeds, feeds, and fertilizer, and City Mills was just north of downtown. Tacoma had the Puget Sound Flouring Mills, the Tacoma Grain Company, Watson & Olds, Albers Milling Company, and the Cascade Cereal Mills. Everett had the Everett Flour Mill producing its “Best Everett” brand. Bellingham had a big mill on South Hill next to the water, where the three-masted schooners could easily load up. The grain trade was huge as well. Tacoma had a mile-long grain warehouse on the waterfront, handling wheat. Railroad trains stopped on the shore side and the great ocean-going schooners tied up at the water side for loading. Large quantities of Washington’s wheat also shipped out of Portland and Astoria. Combined, the grain and flour trade was our state’s major industry”

The Examiner May 11th 1907 (Web Photo: Courtesy trove.nla.gov.au)

It is anomalous to say the least to find the Crompton described in the (Sydney, Australia) Examiner newspaper, wrecked in 1907 rather than her generally accepted & recorded loss of 23/11/1910 (“S V Compton (+1910)” www.wrecksite.eu/wreck.aspex?148392 On Line resource: Accessed 26/10/2021). Working back from the date of the Examiner report “…on Saturday last received a cable, been beached at Queenstown.…” given that the report is in the paper of Saturday 11th May 1907, it then would indicate the report from London arriving in Sydney 04th May of 1907 leaving the Crompton lost at best sometime in the month leading up to May 04th of 1907 (“DISASTER TO A WHEAT VESSEL” (Editorial) in The Examiner, May 11 1907. Shipping, P6, Para 5. On Line resource: https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/45812966 Accessed 26/10/2021) If nothing else, we are putting historical records streight by revealing the correct time of the loss of the Compton, even if the exact day has been lost. If the Compton left Melbourne, as described in the Examiner, January 27th of 1907 we can search other sources to see if we can better identify the exact day and month of her loss. The New Zealand Mail of 1907 confirms the press association telegraph from London in its article “Marine Mishaps” of May 06th (Editorial: “Marine Mishaps, Wheat ship ashore”. New Zealand Mail: Issue 1835, 08th May 1907, P35. In “paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZMAIL19070508.2.101” On Line resource. Accessed 26/10/2021)     describing “…..the barque Crompton, bound from Melbourne to Queenstown, with 2700 tons of wheat, has been beached at Queenstown.”

The Compton Reported in the New Zealand Mail 08 May 1907 (Web Photo: Courtesy natlib.govt.nz)

A little further digging in local archives, with the assistance of Michael Lynch of the Kerry County Library, unearthed a copy of the Irish Examiner dates 03rd May of 1907 which carries far more detailed descriptions of the Crompton’s fate at Queenstown (Editorial “Ship aground at Queenstown” Irish Examiner 03.05.1907 P5 C2 ) “The four –masted ship Crompton, of Liverpool which arrived yesterday with 20,310 quarters of wheat from Melbourne, for orders went aground on her anchor to-day, and had to be beached on the Spike Bank, where she now lies with tugs still holding her.”

Spike Island, Cork Harbour where Crompton Moored 02nd May 1907 (Web Photo: Courtesy Barra O’Donnabhain)

The Irish Examiner piece goes on to describe a series of unfortunate events that our friend Lemony Snicket would have found fascinating….. The Crompton arrives at Queenstown, modern day Cork, on the 02nd of May of 1907, she is assigned a pilot, a Mr Samuel Dean (difficult to ascertain as the print of the Examiner clip is less than perfect) and sails perfectly well to her mooring point noted as being west of No 7 Buoy at “Chapel Hole”. The Crompton is said to be “….drawing 23 feet of water on arrival and the depth of water at the point where she was moored is in or about from 23 to 26 ft. at places…” Now a ship of the size of the Crompton and drawing 23 feet of water (the amount of her hull in and under the water) is not going to last long in water the same depth or slightly deeper in places, she is a disaster waiting to happen at that point and it seems everyone knew about it as the Irish Examiner notes “….It seems quite clear that those in authority did not approve of the berth she was in. for the pilot remained on board all night with a view to getting her into another berth to-day, and accordingly about noon today she had her port anchor up.” So all preparations are in place and it seems the Crompton is about to be moved to a more appropriate depth of water and moored correctly, but the day was not going to be saved, the weather was in no way ideal to move such a big ship and a gale was blowing down the harbour from the West to North West. Now a gale blowing West alone might have saved the Crompton, that would have blown her towards the deeper channel into Cork, but all North West winds would have blown her closer to the Spike Island fort and shallower water and the Irish Examiner reports exactly that “….During today’s gale from W.N.W setting on her port side she got on the ground, and appears to have got her own anchor under her, with the result that she became badly holed Both anchors were down when she grounded, that which was previously lifted with a view to shifting her having been again let go.” It became a matter only of time, the Crompton being badly holed by her own anchor (perhaps even the anchor mounted in Queenstown, Valentia, outside Des Lavelle’s Dive Center?), and a gale pounding her sides, tons of water would be pouring in through such a hole, the Examiner piece notes that at 16:30 she had 2 feet of water in her and 18:30 she had 16 feet in her hull, later the author states “….as I write, at 8 p.m. the water appears to be within one foot of her main deck. In other words the ship is full of water and in a most precarious condition.”

The Irish Examiner Headline 03 May 1907 (Scan: Courtesy Michael Lynch Cork County Library)

At some time during the events unfolding signals were run up calling for assistance and the local tug company, which was, oddly the Clyde Company of Scotland, (owning the local steam tug boats for harbour duties, and using a local manager to do so) who’s manager a Mr J J Brennan set to, sending 3 tugs to assist the Crompton, the Flying Fish, the Flying Fox and the Flying Sportsman. It was decided by the Captain of the Crompton, who had come back aboard after seeing the distress signal flags from ashore (where he was dealing with the local shipping agent, a Mr J Kelleher of Scott and company, in relation perhaps, to the Crompton’s cargo or onward journey), and agreed with the Tugs agent to drive the Crompton onto the bar at Spike island which would see her grounded but safe from further sinking. The Examiner details the activities undertaken “…..it does not take long to put a ship aground, difficult though it is to take her off again, and the Flying Fox at her helm and the Sportsman and Fish at her port and starboard side respectively, took hold of her and all three vessels, finely handled, safely beached the ship and kept attendance on her during the night until further danger was averted, as it was possible she might have dropped off if let go.” 

The Tug Flying Fish, Sent to Support the Crompton (Web Photo: Courtesy Irish National Library)

The three tugs of the Clyde Company must have had a very difficult task during the dying hours of the night of the 02nd May 1907, the Crompton was full to a foot of the main deck with water making her a huge almost dead weight, and the weather was horrible with a W.N.W gale blowing against them to make things even harder….it is no surprise the tugs come in for praise for their actions, little short of miraculous in the circumstances and recognised by the Examiner “…..Mr Henry T. Ensor and his salvage staff reached the ship very promptly after the appearance of the signals and rendered valuable assistance, and as I write Messrs. Ensor and staff with their powerful pumps are on board pumping the ship, aided by the crew but it is difficult to keep down the inrush of water to the ship” and goes on to note “The tugs Blazer, Columbia and the Government tug Stormcock proceeded to the ship’s assistance, but the Clyde Company’s tugs did all the work required of them” in effect praising Flying Fish, Fox and Sportsman for the saving of Crompton whilst noting others were there after the main of the dangerous and professionally challenging work had been completed. It would not be the last time the Flying Fish showed her mettle, a mere 7 years after the Crompton grounding she would take part in a far more tragic sinking, the Lusitania, off Kinsale Head on 07th of May 1951 under her Captain  Thomas Brierley, the Cobh and Cork Harbour Centenaries Facebook site has a quotation which sadly is not referenced but details “……the Flying Fish made several such trips, gathering and ferrying survivors from the scene to Queenstown, and many of those survivors owed their lives to him and his vessel……….. Captain Thomas Brierley was born in 1859, and was 56 at the time of the disaster. He was awarded a medal for the outstanding gallantry he displayed during the endless trips he and his vessel made back and forth from Queenstown, to where the Lusitania had sunk. Bringing back the living, as well as the dead”

Captain Thomas Brierley of the Tug Flying Fish (Web Photo: Courtesy Lusitania.net)

The Examiner notes the crew were taken off the Crompton at around midnight and taken to the “sailors Home” (presumably the local lost sailor’s mission), but that her captain and the ship’s officers stayed aboard. The Examiner also notes the exact location of the damage is still to be determined and that divers will probably have to remove most of the cargo to find and repair the damage from Crompton’s anchor, but that the salvage values could, if Mr Henry Thomas Ensor and his divers manage it, value £20,000 for the Crompton herself and £30,000 for the wheat with freight at around £7,000. If anyone could achieve this, in the circumstances, it would be Henry Thomas Ensor, who would be described in the Wonders of World Engineering (Editorial in: https://wondersofworldengineering.com/salvage_engineers.html On Line resource: Accessed 30/10/2021) following his salvage of the huge dredger Silurus, 81m Long, 14m wide and 6m deep weighing over 2,000 tons, sunk in a gale in October of 1915 after breaking her moorings in Gareloch, Scotland, as: “……..the late Henry Ensor, of Queenstown (Cobh), Ireland, who was one of the most brilliant exponents of marine salvage. A red-bearded man of average height and slight build, he had a quiet voice and bore little resemblance to the popular conception of a man who had spent his days grappling with intricate salvage problems”

Henry Thomas Ensor & Sons Raising the Fleswick Following a Collision with the SS Killarney 1909 (Web Photo: Courtesy echolive.ie)

It seems Crompton was both a lucky vessel of sorts, and doomed, as are we all, to a fatal end, a little more digging with the Kerry County Archivist, Michael Lynch, at the Kerry Library reveals the 1907 grounding to be only the first of the Crompton’s adventures with the Kerry coast. Indeed the 1907 grounding reported in Australia and New Zealand and in the Irish Examiner was followed a mere three years later with the Crompton’s sinking in her current resting place off Dromgour point, Valentia Island County Kerry. Michael has kindly supplied pieces from the local newspapers, the Cork Examiner, the Kerry Evening Post and the Kerry Weekly Reporter and carrying reports of the ultimate demise of the Crompton where previously the only mention found was Antipodean, nothing evident or easily accessible from the various internet sources. If nothing else it shows the value of Library copies of local newspapers and the archival benefits of local and county libraries, the internet is an amazing resource, but it will be decades before it has the full human archive available at your fingertips in any “complete” sense, and if I do not miss in guessing, that will come at a cost as more and more web based archives charge for access privileges……. It is only 3 years later and the Crompton is again aground on the coast of Kerry, this time against Drumgour and with little, if any, chance of survival as the report in the Kerry Evening Post of 26th November 1910 details

Kerry Evening Post, 26 Nov 1910 (Copy: Courtesy Michael Lynch Kerry County Library)

There was no chance on this occasion that salvage could be made as the report clearly states “The Crompton has sunk, only the top of the masts being visible” for a barque of 17 years and veteran of many Atlantic crossings to be lost in this manner would mean the economics of salvage would not add up, effectively she and her cargo are lost and all that remains is the destructive effects of the sea and the Crompton’s position below the unforgiving cliffs at Drumgour on Valentia 

Drumgour Cliffs, Valentia, Southern Ireland (Web Photo: Courtesy mapio.net)


I dived the Crompton, or what remains of her, from Des Lavelle’s boat, Bael Bocht, (from the book An Béal Bocht (meaning “the poor mouth”) by Flann O’Brien (pen name of Brian O’Nolan) a classic satire in Irish, parodying the expression attributed to Irish farmers to “put on the poor mouth” or exaggerate their poor circumstances to invoke sympathy……… You see Des, I did eventually find out!) on a trip to Valentia & the Skelligs in 1998, this was the first trip I had taken to Ireland specifically to dive, (my last trip involved a great deal of walking, usually dropped off by Lynx or Puma, sometimes collected by them too, when not too close to the north-South border)…… I was struck by the warmth of the Irish, their welcoming nature and quick wit in any situation, the country is beautiful and Valentia and Kerry were like stepping back in time 40 years, charming people, beautiful countryside and a warm welcome, idyllic, truly idyllic…….

The Crompton’s Anchor, Knightstown, Valentia Island, Toots, Kai & Lewis

Des Lavelle is a very well known and well respected senior of the Queenstown community having been one of those working for the Atlantic Telegraph Company based on Valentia, the first landfall of the Transatlantic sub-sea telegraph line between the USA & Ireland. It was Des’ boat the Bael Bocht that was the dive platform for the retrieval of the Crompton’s main anchor, now sat outside Des’s dive centre in Queenstown Valentia. On his retirement from the telegraph company Des used his little boat to take out tourists to Skellig Michael & Small Skellig, visible on the Drumgour Cliffs photo, to visit the ancient monks slate beehive huts, and spend time with the remote islands wildlife and sea life. The local seals, Gannets & Puffins are well loved and popular with divers and tourists alike, those of you of a certain age and possessed of perhaps even a small degree of “the force” will perhaps recognise the Skelligs, at least Skellig Michael

Memorial Anchor Plaque at Queenstown, Valentia (Web Photo: Courtesy waymarking.com)

My little Red Log book records the dive: “13 04 98 Valentia Eire WRECK OF “CROMPTON” A four masted Barque that was wrecked in 1910 & not discovered again till 1970. The main anchor is on Des Lavelle’s forecourt. We dropped onto the second anchor – slightly smaller & quickly found the mass of rusting chains from the for’ard chain locker & then ferreted back amongst the spars & plating back to a great little rock “squeeze” & back up to find the 3rd anchor & more chain – great ferret about & well worth another visit great viz”   The wreck was well broken up even then, hardly surprising as it is at the base of cliffs with nothing between the cliffs and the raging Atlantic from the USA across to Ireland! The sheer force of the sea can only truly be appreciated in a storm, I watched the Grey mountainous seas smash against the cliffs on a later trip to Valentia when we lost 2 days to harsh seas and storm and did some walking in the area, the conditions below us were extreme and those fleeing the sinking Crompton were incredibly lucky to escape with their lives, it’s little short of a miracle all the Crompton’s crew were saved

Recovering Toots into Bael Bocht, with Des Lavelle in the Wheel House
 
Kerry Evening Star 24 November 1910 (Copy: Courtesy Michael Lynch Kerry County Library)

The Kerry Evening Star reports “Five of the men scrambled up the cliff at Filenagaragh…” which is a considerable feat in the circumstances and would also have come as a shock to the locals on Valentia, confronted by 5 bedraggled and likely scraped and bleeding negro sailors from the Southern states of the USA, a not so usual sight on a Southern Irish Island such as Valentia. The memorial in Valentia adds a little detail to those climbing the cliff and their circumstances “…..the crew scrambled up the rocks and made off the houses of Jeremiah O’Sullivan and Sean More Devane where they were fed and cleaned up. The next day they were met by Harbour Master Shanahan and brought to Caherciveen where they were put on a train to begin their long journey home.” Who knows, there may have been some present who assisted in the 1907 grounding, there may be more to write about in family archives locally or sleeping in long defunct local newspapers, there is nothing written I can find other than the pieces shared here, and I suppose it fitting in rounding up this piece, to mention the rather cryptic line in the Kerry Evening Post: “….Her Master, Captain Williams, is very well known in Cork and Queenstown…..”  Now I’m not exactly sure how to take that, being predisposed to a naturally suspicious nature myself, hopefully it is just a bit of the Irish Craic in reference to the 1907 grounding of the Crompton

Crompton’s Wreck Site, Off Valentia, Southern Ireland
The Contemporary Admiralty Chart of Drumgour & St Finan Bay (Copy: Courtesy Michael Lynch Kerry County Library)

I recall the dive very well, not so much for the wreckage of the Crompton, this is another very similar to the Barque Herzogin Cecille, where most of the wreckage is simply remnants of heavy plate steel, indeterminate from any other wreckage save for the knowledge of the loss of the Crompton and the area of her demise. The gullies we were diving in were mostly flat and shallow, but one in particular was a huge fissure running parallel to shore by the feel of it underwater, and descending from around 5m to about 20m, we swam its length and it became narrower and narrower until divers could not swim abreast but were forced to be one above the other, with all the buoyancy issues that can invoke…..The swim was a great experience and made only better by the chains and debris oddments from the Crompton as we returned up to safety stops and another root around the area in search of more of the Crompton

Post Dive Grins all Round, Yours Truly, Paul Tinsley & my Brother Barry

As ever, I have to thank those that have made this piece what it is, Mr Des Lavelle of Lavelle’s Valentia Diving Centre, for our trips to Crompton and, in this case, it would have been a far less interesting tale without the help of Michael Lynch, of the Kerry County Library, who provided the articles from the Kerry Evening Star, the Kerry Evening Post, the Cork and the Irish Examiner and to both of whom I am, and will remain, eternally grateful

Filed Under: The Wrecks

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